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Post by mossie on Dec 27, 2014 16:16:31 GMT
Some super shots here Bixa. I really liked the very tall thin stork way back, looked as though if he didn't get another fish soon he would just fade away.
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Post by questa on Dec 27, 2014 22:58:28 GMT
The water life is rather like around Darwin in Nth Oz. The reddish tan bird walking across the water on the lily leaves is known here as the "Jesus Bird". The darker birds in the trees could be cormorants. The white birds steal the show...every pic a winner!
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Post by bixaorellana on Dec 28, 2014 6:03:58 GMT
Thank you, Mossie! I had two pictures of that bird, but deleted one because he just looked like a thin white line in it. I wonder if they extend themselves to be taller & to see further when hunting. Questa, I bask in your wonderful praise of the previous page, even as I know I'm undeserving! Thanks for the IDs. The darker birds are indeed cormorants. Incidentally, the Spanish word for cormorant is "cormorant", so you've just increased your Spanish vocabulary. I looked up Jesus bird & found that they "are found worldwide within the tropical zone" sourceWell, moving right along, we're now back on dry land in Catemaco, with little time left to us here. Let's go into the church ~ Inside looking out ~ Going up into that area above the altar, I encounter a woman giving a limpia to a man who I guess is her husband. She is sweeping his body with a bunch of basil and praying. I saw a great deal of this when I went to the church on the day of Juquila, but didn't get pictures because it would have been too intrusive. For this photo, I didn't go all the way up the steps, but huddled behind the railings. When the woman was finished, there was a single tear rolling down her cheek -- a photo op I just wasn't crass enough to capture. The little hanks of hair have been left there in fulfillment of a promesa. The parents ask help from the Virgin for their child, then let the child's hair grow for a year. The hair is then cut & left as thanks for the help received. You can see the child in the hanging photo has been newly shorn. The basil used for the limpia is left on the floor to be swept up as trash ~ The woman who performed the limpia reverently kissed the glass over the statue before she left. You can see by the smears that she wasn't the only one ~
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Post by bixaorellana on Dec 28, 2014 6:13:55 GMT
This church has definitely benefited from being in a furniture-building region ~ Really bright & pretty in a different way ~ Time for a restorative coffee before heading to the bus station. The coffee house was upstairs across the street from the church & filled with merchandise from .... Oaxaca Hurriedly appreciating architecture as we hustle past it ~ Lotta water here! A quick nip down to snap a picture of the pond in a municipal pocket park, a fitting final view of Catemaco ~ Fear not ~~ I have many more pictures to show from Tlacotalpan, some pretty, some informative, and some downright weird. Stay tuned!
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Post by Deleted on Dec 28, 2014 20:10:35 GMT
The church looks fantastic, sort of like a comic book rendition of a church since the lines are so clean and bright, but those activities going on (limpia?) seem to be totally weird and do not bode well for Mexico in the modern world.
Just wondering: is the younger generation detaching itself from this kind of stuff or are they continuing these activities?
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Post by questa on Dec 28, 2014 21:30:29 GMT
Bixa, The church photos are so crisp and sharp, I think stained glass pics are among the hardest things to get into sharp focus. I also liked your dome pic with all the looping ovals and curves.
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Post by htmb on Dec 28, 2014 21:42:30 GMT
Wonderful captures, Bixa. Was it all as sparkling clean as it appears in your photos?
Were we supposed to learn more about witches, or did I miss something?
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Post by bixaorellana on Dec 29, 2014 0:37:49 GMT
I'm pretty fascinated by those bright and brightly painted churches. You all saw that one in Tlacotalpan is also like that. Before, the only one I'd seen was in Tampico. Maybe it's a historical thing, or simply something appealing to people living near the Gulf of Mexico. Kerouac, the limpias and related beliefs are pre-Columbian in origin and thrive here and in the United States among people of all ages. Many people who believe in limpias would eschew the more colorful "witchcrafty" aspects, such as we saw in the Veracruz market or that outrageous store in Catemaco. This article has more information. I don't know what the difference is between a brujo/a (witch) and a chamán (shaman), but I know the word used here in Oaxaca is chamán, and that was the word our boat captain in Catemaco used. From what he told us, I think that shamans only practice what we'd call white magic. I suspect that in many cases a limpia would actually work, in the same way that meditating and "throwing away" what ails you spiritually, emotionally, or physically could work. Htmb, you learned about what I learned of witches! On the boat ride, we were offered the opportunity to go to one of the islands where we could have a cleansing, but neither of us wanted that. Really, what I wrote in the paragraph above is most of what I know. Catemaco's reputation for witchcraft comes from the fact that one of the islands in the lake is used on one day of the year by the shamans to prepare their herbs and potions for the coming year. Here is a link that should tell you more. You can also google "shamans catemaco" for pages and pages of hits. www.mexconnect.com/articles/3605-catemaco-mexico-s-cradle-of-sorcery-and-witchcraftQuesta, thank you so much! Believe me, I have thrown away untold numbers of unsuccessful stained glass pictures. It seems impossible when the sun is shining directly through them. Here's a hint: when I manage to get a relatively good image of one in a larger shot, I darken just the glass portion when editing, in the hope of being able to see the design. Htmb, re: clean :: we originally thought that all the painting & sprucing up was because we were in a UNESCO town. But bus trips brought home the fact that it's just something people do in that region -- nice! So ....... here we are back in We'll stroll around & you can see some parts that aren't so sparkling, or at least just more everydayish ~~This man let me take pictures as he caned a settee ~~ This is near the end of town where the highway comes in. It's very low here, often with standing water. They need to mow the schoolyard! Empty lot full of water lettuce ~ Tourist trolley having a bad day ~ Hardware store meeting the local needs ~ Evening shot by the market ~ This fierce creature lives in the guesthouse garden. Think it's a little humid there? And on that note, I hope you will watch & enjoy this brief slideshow which features a bona fide song from Veracruz that everyone should recognize ~
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Post by bixaorellana on Dec 29, 2014 3:58:00 GMT
And now for something completely different! Maybe someone remembers seeing a sign advertising this, um, attraction way back at the beginning of the thread. I certainly remembered & made it my business to hunt the place down. This fierce beast greeted me at the door. The woman who runs the place told me to just go through to where the animals were. It smelled awful & it was awful to see these noble birds crammed into this recycled hurricane fence cage ~ Despite my disgust and disapproval, there is no denying that the wacky weirdness of the place had me in its thrall. The docent said these were prehispanic artifacts that had been dug up in the area ~
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Post by bixaorellana on Dec 29, 2014 4:12:37 GMT
Lotta turtles ~ This is the baby of the crocodile collection. He is less than 4' long & is on a ledge over the turtle tank ~ This is Limo, who is 58 years old ~ Panchito, 35 years old ~ Juanito, 39 years old ~ Lagarta, 42 years old ~ The pelicans had the run of the place ~
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Post by bixaorellana on Dec 29, 2014 4:40:13 GMT
While the museum woman was showing the big turtle to a group who'd arrived, I wandered to the back of the property. I went back up to ask if the eagle was tethered. There I heard part of a discourse on something being dried, powdered & taken in coffee or sherry. Upon asking what, I was informed that it was crocodile shit -- much in demand for the treatment of asthma. One of the other visitors was listening raptly to the instructions, as she wanted to do the cure for her asthma. Aside: I mentioned this to some locals later & although they'd not heard of it, they took it seriously. They also told me that skunk meat should be eaten to get rid of acne and that consuming vulture meat would cure cancer. Later, I ran that by a friend in Oaxaca who said he'd heard of the skunk meat cure. However, he was as disgusted as I over the idea of eating vulture, but not so much by powdered croc poo-poo. Oh yeah ~~ back to the eagle: she was not tethered, in fact flies free from the yard to go fishing. I asked if she laid eggs & the woman said no, that she had no mate. She could get up to all kinds of stuff while out fishing, but surely would stay with her eggs if she in fact laid any. Here she comes now ~ And now we troop back into the main building to ogle the varied treasures therein ~
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Post by bixaorellana on Dec 29, 2014 5:09:07 GMT
Old style Tlacotalpan chair of wood and leather ~ The cardboard bust is of Porfirio Diaz, who did in fact once live in Tlacotalpan, and that is supposedly his sword ~ There were lines of pictures on the walls, many of the various floods that have hit this town ~ She said the waters came up to just below the top line of photos in 2010 ~ I can't say for certain who did the paintings, whether they're by the husband of the woman showing us around, or by the man who created the museum, the great-uncle of that husband. As I was leaving, I pointed out to the woman that I had not yet paid. She said there was no fee, but they appreciated donations. Later, when I told the guesthouse host that I'd been to the museum, he said, "I hate that place!" It turns out they've been closed down by the state several times, thus are unable to officially charge for visits. At any rate, I satisfied that guilty desire to check out a roadside attraction.
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Post by Deleted on Dec 29, 2014 6:51:07 GMT
I can imagine people having really contrasting opinions about that place, but I was certainly enthralled by your photos. I would assume that the main problem with the place is "animal care."
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Post by htmb on Dec 29, 2014 13:22:45 GMT
I have to give you much credit for braving the place, Bixa. I can just imagine the odor. The pictures and many of the items "displayed" are quite interesting, but the birds in the ugly, rusty cages and the crocs would have been problematic for me, too.
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Post by bixaorellana on Dec 31, 2014 4:31:50 GMT
Thanks, Kerouac. Yeah, animal care was probably it. The lady was pretty friendly with me, even though I'd twice asked if the dogs were let loose when no one was around (they were pathetically needy for petting) & then asked if that was all the space the crocodiles had. She said "they got used to it". I wouldn't be surprised if neighbors had complained, as well. Can you imagine, just as you drift off to sleep, you hear this? I don't know how much credit I deserve, Htmb, since my thrill-seeking desire for goofy novelty over-rode my better animal-rights nature. At any rate, my goal now is to finish this thread during 2014. I hope people are finding it of interest, although I realize the best time for my magnum opus was perhaps not smack in the middle of the holidays. Getting back to a question that Htmb had asked earlier, about how well-groomed the town is, here you can see that people sometimes groomed it only as much as the budget allowed: And some more strolling around town, really the main thing to do there ~ Street art honoring the running of bulls through town during the Feast of Candelaria, February 2 ~ Dog, resting ~ Anyone who knows me can imagine how I practically went on point when I saw this magnificent paper art on the wall of a coffee house. Alas, they had other designs on things for sale, but not this wonder ~ Statue ~ Another statue ~ Stuff up in the air ~ Everyone in town left their parlor windows open to the street, so it was an insurmountable temptation to look in as I went past. Mostly I squelched the impulse to stick the camera through the security bars, but did get a couple of shots ~ This was rather a coup in terms of snooping private parlors. It's a house on the main square that sells almond paste & devastatingly delicious almond confections. This interior serves as a logical segue into the next section (yes -- there's more!), a museum in one of the grand houses of the past.
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Post by fumobici on Dec 31, 2014 4:42:35 GMT
No, no, smack in the middle of the holidays is perfect for me. This is like taking a delicious and rather exotic (and tropical!) vacation during our headlights and wipers on at noon month here. In other words exactly what the doctor ordered!
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Post by bixaorellana on Dec 31, 2014 4:53:08 GMT
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Post by bixaorellana on Dec 31, 2014 5:38:24 GMT
Thank you, Fumobici! You may have the scent of mildew hanging on your clothes by the time I finish dragging everyone through this tropical adventure. Here's a little something I think you should peruse: www.google.com/?gfe_rd=cr&ei=2ZiSU-T8JsWR8QfU2oBA&gws_rd=cr#newwindow=1&q=flights+seattle+to+oaxaca Moving right along & continuing with the sewing machine theme, I visited this long interior room. Apparently the reason for all the sewing machines was nothing obvious, such as a sweat shop, but rather that the museum had accumulated several & had to put them somewhere. Map of Tlacotalpan when it was still an island. Not surprisingly, that narrow section of the river eventually silted up ~ A "copier". The docent said that a special kind of paper would be put in and it would copy something inserted with it. (?) An embosser, maybe? Copper cookpots ~ Copper washbasin ~ Please notice the different colors and designs of the floor in the photo above. That is encaustic flooring, which is not glazed. Our guesthouse landlord said that was one of the major cleanup chores after the flood, to get all the silt and stain out of those lovely ornamental tiles. You can see there is still a ways to go on this floor. That storeroom was full of water damaged furniture and other items. Photo by Mariana Yampolsky. There were several of her pictures on an outer wall, all in this condition or worse ~ More nice furniture, plus a good example of encaustic flooring in the second photo ~ Beer bottles & a chocolate pot ~ Though not a larcenous person, if I could have forced this sculpture into my bra, I would have made off with it. Isn't it wonderful? And that concludes our visit to the Salvador Ferrando museum, but there is still a little more to see of Tlacotalpan.
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Post by questa on Dec 31, 2014 9:17:27 GMT
Ummm Bixa, do you need a bigger bra? The statue is eminently pilferable though, isn't it. Such characters !
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Post by Deleted on Dec 31, 2014 18:25:47 GMT
I just don't know what to say anymore because just about every photo begs about six comments about the various details -- one or two for the main subject and another four for all of the details on the sides or in the background.
I liked the dog on the scooter (reply #74), but I suspect that he was doing more than resting. He was ensuring that the scooter would not sneak off anywhere without him as a passenger.
The creepy portraits at the beginning of reply #76 remind me very much of the entrance decorations of the Haunted Mansion at Disneyland/Disneyworld.
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Post by bixaorellana on Jan 1, 2015 2:57:31 GMT
I dunno, Questa :: it looks as though a bigger bra might lead me into a life of crime! Kerouac, I really appreciate your kind and encouraging words. Nothing is better than knowing someone is interested & entertained by my thread. Interesting comment about the portraits. I was particularly taken with the one of the woman, as it has a very modern air about it, despite her clothing & hairstyle. I could kick myself for not getting pictures of the two very strange busts in that parlor, but you can see one of them here: big pic. Click on that downward pointing arrow on the bottom right (view all sizes), then choose Original, which is the biggest. You'll have to scroll to see in the mirror, but it's a sort of jugheaded guy whose "hair" was supposed to be chia, as in chia pets. Well, I guess resolutions were meant to be broken, as there ain't no way I'll get this thread finished tonight. I'm off to get ready to see the fireworks, but want to wish all of you a very happy and satisfying 2015. Hasta mañana!
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Post by questa on Jan 1, 2015 4:26:09 GMT
The portrait of the lady with lace shawl is marvellous. She looks so alive and about to give someone a piece of her mind. She was a determined woman but had a good sense of humour. If you cover the right side of her face she is a ' not too be meddled with' woman, but if you cover her left side there is the start a little smile and twinkle in the eye.
Or am I just too tired after NY celebrations?
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Post by tod2 on Jan 1, 2015 12:41:49 GMT
I am just so flabbergasted Bixa by your incredible photos and information. I have not seen this essay before a few days ago(probably due to my woes lately) but this is one stunning guide to the region. First of all Veracruz is where my orders of panama hats always got shipped from, so it was fantastic to see the surrounds. Your trip has surely been the highlight of the year for you?! I am so pleased you have given us this wonderful explosion of sights and scenes through your truly magnificent photos. You deserve the biggest pat on the back from all of us here! I will be looking at this many times.
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Post by bjd on Jan 1, 2015 18:11:23 GMT
I just spent over a week away with a very poor internet connection, so have just caught up with two pages of your thread. Great pics, as usual. I admit I rather like the ones of the "normal" town, with the sneak peeks into peoples' houses.
Are the monkeys kept on islands so they don't multiply too much and invade the whole country?
And, gosh, crocodiles are ugly creatures. Are they imported? I thought the American version of those things was alligators?
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Post by mich64 on Jan 1, 2015 20:01:29 GMT
Fantastic Bixa! I really enjoy period museums depicting articles of everyday life. So many fabulous photos and facts of the lifestyle of this region. What a pleasure it must be to watch the craftsmen, you have been so fortunate on many occasions to come across these skilled men and women. How many days were you there?
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Post by bixaorellana on Jan 2, 2015 1:40:35 GMT
The portrait of the lady with lace shawl is marvellous. She looks so alive and about to give someone a piece of her mind. She was a determined woman but had a good sense of humour. If you cover the right side of her face she is a ' not too be meddled with' woman, but if you cover her left side there is the start a little smile and twinkle in the eye. Questa, what an intriguing way to examine a portrait! I am going to adopt this technique from now on. However did you think of it? Tod, you always know just the right thing to say! Yes, this trip was a real tonic for me, as I haven't been anyplace but the town where my mother lives for a couple of years. I'll say again how the fabulous climate & the total difference from where I live made it a real get-away. Thank you, Bjd! I don't really understand the whole monkey thing with the skimpy info I've found on the internet. Maybe the spider monkeys are there to make sure their numbers will be kept up? And the research project on the macaques has been abandoned, although some sources state that the government drops off food & monitors the monkeys' health. Aw, I thought Juanito had rather a soulful face. Those are bona fide crocodiles. Here's enough info to make you nervous about swimming for the rest of your life ~ crocodilian.com/cnhc/csl.htmlThanks so much, Mich. It is amazing to see how people lived, even well-off people, back before our modern (& hygienic!) conveniences. I got there on the afternoon of the 14th & left at night on the 20th. Our kind landlord warned us that there wasn't terribly much to do there, but I felt it was time well spent, & even stuff left to see had I stayed longer. One thing that fell through was a non-motorized tour of the lagoon, because the person who does that had a work conflict. I've been worried that I was just inundating everyone with photos and text here. But now your generous comments will be rewarded with even more of same. Don't worry ~~ we are approaching the end. Let's look at some tile work, starting with the old-fashioned stuff on a wall ~ There's something endearing about a town acknowledging its charms in this way. This is by no means all of the postcard benches ~ This was on the side wall of a house. No idea what it means, only that it's delightful ~ You all may remember the church being renovated near the guesthouse, St. Michael the Archangel, familiarly referred to as San Miguelito. I wandered in there ~ Elaborate wooden ceiling ~ And the underside of the tejas in another section ~ This gentleman showed me some of the church treasures and insisted I needed to go upstairs to see the panorama. Scary, narrow corkscrew stairs! Leading me to my doom ~ Looking down at the church interior ~ And climbing up on a rickety bench to look out the window. Kinda worth it!
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Post by bixaorellana on Jan 2, 2015 1:58:16 GMT
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Post by questa on Jan 2, 2015 3:29:38 GMT
Bixa...I think the local Tourism Board should give you a highly paid position for the photos that you have arranged so beautifully. You have laid them out like chapters in a book, keeping (to my mind) the best till last...colour, colour in daring displays. Thank you for this report and all the time and work that went into it.
The split face technique is fairly well known. Our dominant side is the face we present to the world, hiding some of our characteristics that we wish to cover up (subconsciously) The other side is the true expression of our nature. We are literally two-faced. If you get a face pic of, say, Robin Williams and look at each side separately, I think you could see it for yourself...one side zany, the other pain. I have done it with photos of boyfriends in my past...very illuminating.
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Post by htmb on Jan 2, 2015 3:41:49 GMT
Such a lovely thread, Bixa. I've been savoring it and still have some video to watch, as well as several sections to peruse. This has been a delightful trip to live through your eyes.
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Post by bjd on Jan 2, 2015 7:47:55 GMT
I agree with Questa -- you should be getting paid by the tourist board,although some of the most interesting photos to me are not the kind that tourist boards usually like to use for advertising.
Thanks again for all the work you put in posting this.
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