Istanbul

[anshjain97]

I love former imperial capitals. And having wanted to visit Istanbul for a long time, I was glad it was happening this year. I spent 7 nights there in 2 stints last month and absolutely loved the city and already can't wait to revisit sometime.

It's election time!



These parliamentary elections have bot led a clear majority for the current president Recep Tayyip Erdogan, something many may call a good thing. But it's not over yet, and it's still not decided what coalition will form.



Once known as Constantinople, the capital of the Byzantium empire, the Ottomans took over in 1453 and made Istanbul their capital. This layered history of 2 great empires is easily visible in Istanbul. But that comes a bit later, right now a walk through my hotel's area, not far from the historic district of Sultanahmet.






Like Rome, Istanbul is a city of seven hills. Beware of steep streets!









While some streets were buzzing with activity, others were extremely quiet...



Now entering the historic area...beginning with the former Hippodrome where races and ceremonies were held in Byzantine times. Now the place is a pleasant square with a variety of obelisks and columns.



Above is the Walled Obelisk and below is the Serpentine column, built to commemorate the Greek defeat of Persians in 479 BC.















And below is the German fountain.




Its superb interior mosaic:






The Hagia Sophia, the church turned into a mosque turned into a museum with marvelous mosaics. Went on a later day.

[bixaorellana]

Anshjain ~ great pictures & most interesting text AND the answer to a prayer for me, as I will be visiting Istanbul @the beginning of August. Looking forward to more of this thread & you just know I'll have questions.

[htmb]

Nice pictures! I need to go back through them again, but my first reaction was surprise. I would not have guessed Istanbul from your pics.

[Deleted]

Istanbul is a great city. I've only been there twice -- once as a tourist and once on business -- but I really hope to return there one of these days.

[anshjain97]

That's great to know Bixa- I am sure you will have a wonderful time there. I will be pleased to answer any questions and hope this thread is useful too. Are you planning to visit any other places as well as Istanbul?

We went to a restaurant for lunch. In fact we went there 3 times the whole trip and the view is one reason.









Ah, the Blue Mosque, officially the Sultan Ahmet mosque.



Note the rules! Though they are not strictly enforced and anyone falling short of them will be given a shawl, it is good to be respectable...






Well the crowds were massive this weekend evening so we went a bit later. The surrounding area, for now.






Wandering about, we had come to the road known as Divanyolu, the ancient Middle Way of Constantinople. This road follows the exact path of the major thoroughfare during both the Byzantine and Ottoman times. Some fragments of history do remain but most stuff is new construction, to my surprise.

This piece of history is the Tomb and Cemetery of Mahmud II.



Mahmud II was the sultan of the Ottoman empire between 1808 and 1839. The cemetery is home to the graves of many of his family members as well as some authors, poets and statesmen.



The tomb was closed (it was evening) but the cemetery was open- lots of beautiful stonework.


















A shopping break. How about some spices?



A look around Divanyolu



And finally inside Blue Mosque. It was well worth coming in on the third attempt.












And back outside:

[questa]

I love Istanbul and stay in Sultanahmet when there, a little hotel in the street in your picture #8 with the blue corner café (where I ate)It is a 5 minute walk to the Hippodrome and all the historic things.

The tall yellow building in the 2nd pic of the 2nd group is the Main Police headquarters. From the front it looks like a cartoon building.

Thanks for the happy memories, anshjain, did you go through the Grand Bazaar?

[breeze]

As someone who travels particularly for food and architecture, I've been scheming to get to Istanbul. Looking forward to all your photos.

We've been reading a fascinating mystery series by Jason Goodwin set in 1840s Istanbul. Ansh, the serpentine column, which you photographed, features in one of them.

[fumobici]

Istanbul looks fascinating. How much are English or other European languages understood?

[anshjain97]

I have visited the Grand Bazar though I liked the Egyptian Bazaar much better.

On Divanyolu is the Column of Constantine, also known as the Burnt Column as it was burnt down. Its one of the oldest structures still standing in Istanbul.






Tired of all those crowds, it was time to find a place without them.



Here was one such place: Nuruosmaniye Mosque. It's very close to the Grand Bazaar but as the Bazaar is closed on Sundays, this area is refreshingly quiet.





















Entrance to the Grand Bazaar, shut this Sunday evening.






These small obelisk-shaped boards were placed at every historic sight.



29 May 1453...the Turkish conquest of Constantinople, when the Ottomans captured it and put an end to the Byzantine empire.












The next morning we were heading to the Topkapi palace, the great imperial palace of the Ottomans. There was heavy policing on the way, perhaps some political procession or so soon to follow.



Entrance to Topkapi Palace...the imperial residence between 1465 and 1856.



The first building inside the palace, the Imperial Council Hall.















Iznik tiles.

[anshjain97]

English is spoken by shopkeepers in the Grand Bazaar, Egyptian Bazaar etc, and by many tour guides but is not otherwise common. There seem to be a lot of German tourists in Turkey and German is spoken by many in the travel industry there. Not sure about other European languages.

[anshjain97]

I like how they cover the buildings for restoration- with an outline of them, often with information.pictures of the building.



Topkapi palace is also a great viewpoint.

































A view out to the city...






The next pictures of the palace compound are those of the harem (women's quarters) where the emperor's wives and concubines lived.






The apartment of the queen mother (emperor's mother) who was the most important woman in the palace.









The rest is just more tilework and artwork, as beautiful as it is, I think this is enough.

That's quite a bit of history, art and architecture for now! So rather than chronological, let's go to a market now.



Doner kebap is one of Istanbul's most favourite dishes, normally made of lamb. Unfortunately I'm a vegetarian, so couldn't have that...



May is also cherry season.









Entrance to the Grand Bazaar.



Built in 1456, Grand bazaar is one of the world's oldest covered markets. In its heyday, it was the hub of Mediterranean trade owing to the power and expanse of the Ottoman empire, today you can buy a lot of typical souvenirs, spices, Turkish delights (lokum) etc.

[anshjain97]

Nearby Topkapi Palace are the massive Istanbul Archaeological Museums.






This is one of the three buildings belonging to the museum.






These huge sarcophagi were used to hold dead Byzantine emperors.



This building was home to an impressive collection of gravestones and sarcophagi.






A floor mosaic:



Small photos of many (all?) exhibits of the museum.



Plates made in Iznik design.



A section of the City Walls, known as Theodosian Walls as they were built by emperor Theodosius. They were reinforced several times by later emperors and have resisted many an invasion.


















Now much of the walls and gates are in disrepair.



And now back to the area just north of the Grand Bazaar.






Here is the Sulemaniye Mosque, built for Ottoman emperor Suleiman, under who the empire reached its peak. It was built by Mimar Sinan, one of the greatest imperial architects.















Views from the mosque across the Golden Horn (the body of water which runs perpendicular to the Bosphorus river).

[mickthecactus]

A very,very good report.

[anshjain97]

Continuing through the complex of Sulemaniye mosque.

View across to the area of Beyoglu, with the cylindrical Galata Tower, built in 1348.



Courtyard of the mosque:



And the interior.






Now on the way to Eminonu docks- we pass by the area around Egyptian Bazaar which is another market selling everything from spices to fruits to shoes to soap.















A city has to be very historic to have a 'New Mosque' dating from the 16th century. Well guess what? Istanbul is one such city...












And now by the water, facing Beyoglu and the Galata Tower.




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Istanbul is the world's only city to straddle 2 continents- the Bosphorus separates Europe from Asia. Most sights are located on the European side but we decided to take the ferry once to Asia. There are several different districts in Asia- we went to Kadikoy, which happens to be the very first settlement in Istanbul (known as Chalcedon) though nothing of that past can be seen today.


















A German style station.






Disembarking in Kadikoy:

[anshjain97]

Continuing through Kadikoy:









Back to Sultanahmet:









The area around our hotel rapidly quietened at night- the only activity seemed to be the last of the fruits of the day being sold at half price, apart from that the streets were quite empty and silent but never felt unsafe.



The first place we went to next morning was the Hagia Sophia Museum, one of the world's greatest buildings, the church converted into a mosque, in turn converted into a museum. It has some astounding mosaics. In fact I went there twice so here are photos from both the visits.









Detail of the ceiling.


















There was also a calligraphy exhibition.






While the ground floor is amazing, it's the first floor which has the blockbuster mosaics. A ramp leads up to the upper level. Just after the ramp.






The first mosaic. Virgin Mary and John the Baptist requesting Christ's intercession for humanity.



The original mosaic:



This is the tombstone of a Venetian doge who came to Istanbul right after the Fourth Crusade in 1204.

[bixaorellana]

Ansh, I don't know what to say! This report is outstanding -- so complete and so interesting. Even though I've been reading up on Istanbul, your report has helped me most of all in the way it shows the city's different sections and their highlights in relation to the whole.

Besides its history and location, is there anything particularly "Asian" and different from that side of Istanbul compared to the European side?

Why do you prefer the Egyptian market to the Grand Bazaar? Also, any idea why it's called Egyptian?

All of your photos are wonderful and the ones of the mosaics are dazzling. I wonder what was removed in order to put those mosaics there.

Looking forward to more of this!!!

[anshjain97]

Thanks Bixa!

Having not spent too much on the Asian side, I can't say for sure- but from what I've seen and heard, it's the European parts which have the main tourist and business districts of town, and consequently much more expensive land and costs of living. However I think the Asian district seems to be growing too- Istanbul's other airport is located there, and I saw some high rise residential and business districts there too.

I prefer the Egyptian bazaar because I thought it to be more 'authentic' (for want of a better word), and prices are more reasonable of things such as Turkish delights. If you want to know though, in my opinion, the best Turkish delights are from a chain of stores called Hafiz Mustafa. Not the cheapest available, but they are of high quality, and they were recommended to me by a friend who lives in Istanbul.

Egyptian Bazaar, also known as Spice Bazaar, got its name as it was built using revenues from the Ottoman administrative region of Egypt.

[anshjain97]

The Omphalion on the ground floor is the place where the coronation of Byzantine emperors used to be done.



Some Iznik tiles.






And as you go outside, don't forget to look back, something I did on my first visit.







Outside the main building, but in the complex, are more historic remains, probably excavated from the area.






A water fountain for ablution purposes.






Some tomb buildings are situated here but there didn't seem a way of accessing them.



Apart from these, there were some more fragments lying about, where the one immediately next was 1000 years older.

Now outside, looking towards the Blue Mosque.



Here is Arasta Bazaar- it seems to be another popular one but I thought it to be too sanitized.



Just as the Ottomans had the Topkapi Palace, the Byzantines had the Grand Palace, which no longer exists. However excavation work is in full swing, and a part of that has been converted into the Mosaic Museum. A huge floor mosaic (as mosaics were originally used for) was excavated from the palace, which is one of the masterpieces of the museum.

Here are some of the mosaics.



Parts of the floor mosaic.









Here is the area around.



Loads of tour buses pass through the area, though they typically don't explore this area, which, though very close to the historic center, is much calmer.






Here is a mosque called Kucuk Hagia Sophia Camii (Little Hagia Sophia Mosque).

[Deleted]

Every part of this report is superb. You certainly saw 10 times more things than I was able to see in Istanbul, Ansh.

One of the biggest surprises for me when I went to Istanbul for work one December was to discover that it was decorated for Christmas every bit as much as the European cities to the west of it, including strings of lights over the principal boulevards.

[anshjain97]

We were heading to Beyazit Sq, which during Byzantine times was the Forum of Theodosius.



Today the square is home to a mosque and the entrance gate to Istanbul University.






Below is the Beyazit Mosque.






Inside the university.









Below is the Beyazit Tower, a fire-watch tower necessary in Ottoman Istanbul when most houses were made of wood and fires occurred with alarming frequency. This is the fourth such tower on this location, the first (ironically) burnt down, the second was destroyed in riots and the third one was set on fire.



Now, the area just outside the university, not far from Sulemaniye Mosque and the Grand Bazaar.















Approaching the Valens Aqueduct, built in the 4th century to provide water to the city. It led the water to numerous underground water reservoirs, known as cisterns.












And back in Sultanahmet.



A dinner in the restaurant we visited earlier. View just after sunset.



Hagia Sophia lit up.



Blue Mosque lit up.

[anshjain97]

Very interesting to hear that Kerouac. Is Christmas a national holiday there these days?

[Deleted]

I looked it up, and it isn't. However, a Turkish website had this to say about people who want to spend Christmas in Istanbul, even though 98% of the population is Muslim:

Christmas Decoration — Starting mid-December, streets and stores are decorated in a similar fashion Western countries do for Christmas. You’ll find plenty of Christmas trees, (street) lights and even an occasional Santa Claus. Not that Turks celebrate the birth of Christ; they’re just gearing up for New Year celebrations. But the atmosphere leading up to that day is similar to what we’re used to for Christmas in the West.

A lot of people don't know this, but Saint Nicholas (who "became" Santa Claus over the years) was Turkish.

[questa]

Anshjain, again you leave me breathless with your pictures. You like the same things I do...the history and stories of the old places and the street scenes of ordinary life today and the art and architecture to gaze at.

It is like being there again and seeing Istanbul with new eyes.

[anshjain97]

The next day we were flying out from the airport in Asia to Cappadocia in central Turkey. Just some shots on the way to the airport.















Istanbul's suburbs stretch out for miles...



They sell water and bread in the middle of the road to passing motorists.






We spent 4 days in Cappadocia and returned to this amazing city for another 4 nights. We stayed in the district of Beyoglu, not in the historic Sultanahment but in an area with many more sights.






One of Istanbul's most famous streets is Istiklal Caddessi (Independence st) which is now a very Westernised street, home to lots of brand name shopping and touristy restaurants, though the tiny lanes leading off also attract locals. I am no fan of the street but it does have some nice architecture, in some places. A historic tram runs the length of the road.

































This is at Karakoy, right across the Golden Horn from Eminonu.



And this is the Galata Bridge.






A funicular called Tunel was built to save commuters the uphill walk. It connects Karakoy to a place called Tunel square, at the southern end of the Istiklal caddesi.

[Deleted]

Did you buy any lokums (aka 'Turkish delight') when you were there?. I remember an absolutely fabulous place up by Taksim Park near all of the luxury hotel chains, but I can't remember the name of it.

I always found the Galata bridge and all the people on it completely fascinating.

[htmb]

I am continuing to enjoy this marvelous report, Ansh!

[anshjain97]

Thanks guys!

Kerouac, are you referring to Hafiz Mustafa? We bought a lot of lokum from there (and a couple of other places)- delicious.

[bixaorellana]

Ansh, you say at the beginning of the report that you spent 7 days there in two stints, & can't wait to return. Any advice on how much time to spend in the city as a tourist in one stint, and how best to divide that time?

[anshjain97]

In the below picture you can see Hagia Sophia (background, right) across the Golden Horn. Just left of that- towards the water- is Topkapi Palace.






Now heading on Istiklal Caddesi, but on the other direction- heading north towards Taksim Sq.






A small lane heading off Istiklal.









This is Taksim Sq, considered the beating heart of modern Turkey. There are a lot of big name hotels here and the business/skyscraper district is not too far away.



Like I said, it's cherry season.



Despite the mad rush on Istiklal, some of the side roads remained quiet. Here's the one where my hotel was situated at.



The area is home lots of consulates, here's UK's.









The Aqueduct of Valens once more.



This busy area, one of the city's more conservative, is known as Fatih.









Some traditional wooden houses.






Some of the best Byzantine mosaics and frescoes are in the Chora Church. After being destructed several times due to earthquakes, the current interior dates from the 14th century.

While most of the place was under restoration when I visited, whatever is visible is worth the visit.





















And now the frescoes.












Some websites list this as a 'hidden gem' but it's not, at least anymore, given all this.






Walking through an untouristy neighbourhood.

[anshjain97]

Hmm Bixa- a bit difficult to answer. I would say 4 days would give you a good overview of the city, mixing historical sights with markets and aimless strolls. Having more time than that would enable one to visit some of the less visited places as well. I spent 7 nights and could have spent more, because I have been reading about a lot of neglected ruins all over the place (If you can, grab a copy of Istanbul: An Imperial City by John Freely).

I would suggest staying in either the historic part of town (Sultanahmet) or the areas immediately adjacent to it (Kumkapi, where I stayed, for example, or around the Grand Bazaar.

Public transport is rapidly improving but not as dense as many big European cities. Taxis are not very expensive but some demand an exorbitant fare. Main public transport is tram and ferries. There is also a metro but doesn't cover most of the touristy parts of town.