Istanbul

[Deleted]

The photographs of the interior of the church are positively spectacular with the warm colours.

It is also nice to see some of those quiet streets.

[questa]

This tram and his team run along the main road and in the CBD area...I took it from the Hippodrome to the Grand Market.

[questa]

Close to the tram stop, these bunnies will, for a small fee, hop out and select a slip of paper to tell your fortune

[bixaorellana]

Jun 21, 2015 3:57:20 GMT anshjain97 said:

Hmm Bixa- a bit difficult to answer. I would say 4 days would give you a good overview of the city, mixing historical sights with markets and aimless strolls. Having more time than that would enable one to visit some of the less visited places as well. I spent 7 nights and could have spent more, because I have been reading about a lot of neglected ruins all over the place (If you can, grab a copy of Istanbul: An Imperial City by John Freely).

I would suggest staying in either the historic part of town (Sultanahmet) or the areas immediately adjacent to it (Kumkapi, where I stayed, for example, or around the Grand Bazaar.

Public transport is rapidly improving but not as dense as many big European cities. Taxis are not very expensive but some demand an exorbitant fare. Main public transport is tram and ferries. There is also a metro but doesn't cover most of the touristy parts of town.

Great! Thank you, Ansh. I logged on just now to see your most recent additions to this thread immediately after booking my flight to Istanbul, so your answer is very timely indeed.
Also, your photos have not just whetted my appetite, but whipped it to a frenzy, to hash some metaphors.

The friend I'm visiting is in the Beyoglu area, I think near Taksim. It will probably be easier logistically if I book somewhere near her. She reports that she's found getting around the city quite easy. Any comments on that area?

Also, and this might be more of a question for Questa -- how covered should women be when visiting mosques? I saw a diagram showing a woman with head and shoulders covered, but how long should skirts be, for instance. Would loose pants (trousers) be appropriate or not?

[questa]

I always wear full length loose pants and a T-shirt with sleeves to the elbow,(see my avatar pic)

A long skirt is not necessary...maybe below the knee to mid calf would be OK...not a tight skirt.

I also have a Cambodian krama (the super lightweight checked scarf, worn by Indochinese people in many forms) draped around my neck which is easy to pull up to cover my head when I see the locals covering up. You do not have to remove shoes.

Have a great time there, I'm envious of course.

[bixaorellana]

Thanks, Questa! I carry a rebozo around because it's so easy to fold & stuff in my purse. Very useful, as I get cold in air conditioning & it will serve nicely to turn me into a modest woman.

Don't be envious! You know where I'll be & when (arrive Istanbul Aug 2), so just catch on up with me!

[anshjain97]

Thanks for adding your perspective, Questa! I did not see those bunnies when I was there though they seem very interesting.

Bixa, Taksim has a metro station where you can go north (to the modern business, shopping and residential suburbs, areas such as Levent and south (not sure if that will be useful though). The tram is not far away which whisks you to the old town. Chora Church is a bit far from transport- we took the cab, though if you walk, try to include at least a part of the City Walls. I have no idea about bus routes but they may be worth looking into. And definitely take a ferry at least once. Check this website for the map. www.turkeytravelplanner.com/Maps/ist_metro_map.html

A card called Istanbulkart reduces the price on the public transport. A token for either ferry, tram, metro etc costs 4 lira (USD 1.5); with the card, the fare is 2.15 lira.

One thing that Beyoglu excels in which Sultanahmet doesn't is food- much better restaurants in Beyoglu. Try to find something in the lanes leading away from Istiklal rather than on the main road.

Have a great trip! Hope to read about it and see your pictures.

[anshjain97]

Chora Church may no longer be a 'hidden gem' but thankfully there is one more: Fethiye Museum. Like most other Byzantine churches, this one too was converted to a mosque, but like the Haghia Sophia and the Chora Church, this has been preserved as a museum.



Well, where are the mosaics?



Ah, here they are, many of them being in the corners.















A Byzantine gravestone perhaps?












You may across these such in the centre of the city- I wonder if they are excavated ancient remains of structures.



Back to the Grand Bazaar now.

[questa]

Ansh, The columns you were wondering about could be columns that once held up the roof of a cistern on that site. Here are some pics of a major cistern I visited and there is the same 'water drop' motif on many of these columns.

Many of the columns had carved stone bases with heads portrayed. Although they were ostensibly the head of Minerva, Roman goddess of water, we were told that the craftsmen often carved the likeness of wives, far away. Upside down indicated that the men were not pleased with their wives' behaviour while husbands were away.





head on right ear


Get the divorce papers ready

[nycgirl]

Those mosques are so exquisitely beautiful, inside and out. Which one was your favorite?

The markets look so fun to explore. I'm sure they're crowded, but I would love to kill an afternoon browsing those colorful stalls. And I adore Turkish delight.

This is such a fascinating report. Do you plan on doing one on Cappadocia as well? I never get tired of looking at pictures of that place.

Bixa, how exciting that you're going there as well! You're going to have a wonderful time. Can't wait to hear all about it.

[anshjain97]

Thanks questa- that explains it. Are those pictures of Basilica Cistern? I did go there- no wonder I found those ruins strangely familiar.

Thanks nycgirl! I guess my favourite mosques would be Blue Mosque, New Mosque and Sulemaniye Mosque.

I would love to do a report on Cappadocia after this.

[anshjain97]

Basilica Cistern is the biggest remaining cistern (underground water reservoir) from the Roman times which remains in Istanbul.









Upturned Medusa's head in the back of the cistern.






Very close to Topkapi Palace is Gulhane Park, one of the major ones in the Sultanahmet area.



Ataturk, the founder of modern Turkey and its first president.






Back in Beyoglu- here's that antique tram on Istiklal.



Taksim Sq.









Going to the Taksim metro station.



Istanbul is as much a modern city as a historic one so we decided to spend some time in the modern area.















This is at the Bosphorus (Eastern) shore of Beyoglu, in an area known as Kabatas.



And this is Dolmabahce Palace.






It served as the main imperial palace, upon abandoning Topkapi Palace, from 1856 to 1922 by the Ottomans. For a brief period though, another palace called Yidliz palace closeby was used.












Nice views.






This palace is where Ataturk, founder of the Republic of Turkey, died.

[anshjain97]

Continuing through Dolmabahce Palace:





















Photography was not allowed in the interior. It was beautiful and opulent- very different from Topkapi Palace. Some of the rooms shown included the private apartments of the sultan, the valide sultan (sultan's mother, the most important woman in the palace), the rooms where foreign dignitaries were entertained, the room where Ataturk died etc.

Now back outside:












Fishing is common from the Galata Bridge.









While the ferry from Europe to Asia was very fun, to see a different part of Istanbul by boat, we did a Bosphorus river cruise, which goes north till the point the Bosphorus meets the Black Sea, and then returns.



From the boat:









Another imperial palace, just down the road from Dolmabahce Palace, is the Ciragan Palace, as seen below. It is now converted into a hotel.






This is the Bosphorus suburb of Ortakoy.



Ortakoy Mosque, with a beautiful setting.

[anshjain97]

The cruise was a good way to sit, relax and watch the city go by... Istanbul's suburbs stretch out for miles and miles.



Below is Rumeli fortress. This is situated exactly opposite the smaller Anadolu Fortress, at the narrowest point in the Bosphorus. They were built by the Ottomans to control aid reaching Istanbul during the siege of Constantinople, when the Ottomans defeated the Byzantines and conquered the city.












Somewhere around this point, the boat turned around, headed back for Istanbul. This area should be close to the meeting point of Black Sea.






Anadolou Fortress:



Back to the streets around Eminonu.









This is Spice Bazaar (Egyptian Bazaar)- like the Grand Bazaar it is a covered market.



But it's not only spices which you can buy.












I was looking for what is said to be a hard-to-find mosque. It is indeed- occupying the second floor on a building (rent from the shops on the ground floor help to pay for its upkeep), the Rustem Pasha Mosque is small, yet beautiful, decorated with many different designs of Iznik tiles.

Exterior courtyard:


















Prayer time was just announced as we came in so had only a few minutes to look around. Now outside.



These boxes make it convenient to take lokum home for friends.



Extremely tasty but unhealthy sweet street food.

[bjd]

Just getting here now, Ansh, and I'm really happy to see your pictures of Istanbul. I went there when I was your age, so it has really changed a lot! And you are certainly a better tourist that I was -- all I remember is the Blue Mosque (where you didn't have to cover up), the bazaar and Topkapi.

It's definitely a city I want to go back to, and see from your photos that it needs at least a week, if not more.

You are lucky to be going there, Bixa, even though I imagine it's really hot in August.

[mossie]

A fascinating report.

The mosaics are exquisite

Thanks for a very interesting set of photos

[Deleted]

This is the most complete and varied report that I have ever seen about Istanbul. Bravo!

[bixaorellana]

Good grief, Ansh ~ this is a monumental feat of great thread making! I was told by my friend in Istanbul to be checking out the guidebook for things I especially want to do. Good advice, but I am getting way more out of your thread than from the highly recommended & up-to-date guidebook. Thank you!

Those fried sicak halka appear to be the same as Spanish or Mexican churros. Did you eat any street food?

I'm almost disappointed that the elections are over, as those pennants overhead look quite festive. Just joking, as the whole place looks fascinating. I didn't think I'd be all that interested in the boat tour until I saw your pictures. It must have been like cruising past centuries of history. Quite thrilled to the see the cistern pics, as that is one place I'd had picked out to see.

[questa]

One thing I cannot understand...on the Asian side of Istanbul is the suburb of Scutari. This was where the British Army built a hospital during the Crimean war. This was the birthplace of Nursing as a system of having trained women to care for the sick and wounded. It was where Florence Nightingale set up this system and fought the Army top brass for the right to deliver proper care for her patients.

To her patients she was 'the Lady with the Lamp', to the Army chiefs she was 'that meddlesome woman' but if ever you have been cared for by a Registered Nurse, she or he has been trained by the same system that Miss Nightingale set up.

Yet there is nothing to mark this place. I was told a couple of buildings are crumbling away but no attempt has been made to mark the place that changed the face of caring for patients.

Yet millions were spent to build roads to Gallipoli and Anzac Cove. Come on, Turkey, there is another great tourist/pilgrimage place if it isn't too late.

[lagatta]

And welcome to the Turkey board! Lovely report. I did recognize Istanbul from the graduate history course I did on the Byzantine empire, and a lot of readings on the Ottoman empire in courses on the Arab world. It is quite possible that churros were based on an Ottoman or Moorish sweet - I see very similar things here during Muslim religious festivals (it is Ramadan now).

anshjain, is it possible for a vegetarian to eat meals in Turkey? They have lots of lovely fruits and vegetables, but I think of Turkey as a place where they like their meat.

bixa, I'm sure a rebozo is just fine. Even at that mosque, they aren't showing heavy veiling - just a skirt below the knee and and some kind of headcovering. We can certainly remember when that was mandatory in Catholic churches as well. There were similar signs in Assisi (though the scarf was no longer mandatory when I lived in the area). Also, simply having silver hair makes us "respectable", for better or worse.

[anshjain97]

Thanks guys!

Bixa, I ate the sicak halka, as well as numerous corn cobs which can be found all over the city, with particular density in Sultanahmet. Then there were some other things which I don't recall... but all available in the historic center.

Questa- very interesting to hear about that. I agree, they should restore those places.

Next day was our last day in Istanbul. I wanted to go to Yedikule fortress (Fortress of Seven Towers), which comprises the Golden Gate in the city walls, from where triumphant Byzantine emperors would parade in the city after a conquest. The fortress was according to tripadvisor reviews, closed.

The next best option was the neighbourhood of Eyub in west Istanbul. For that we would take a ferry across the Golden Horn. On the way to the ferry terminal, in Beyoglu.









Galata Bridge.



Some of the Western Districts.









Upon reaching Eyup. Many people here are making their way to Eyup Sultan Mosque, one of the holiest Istamic sites in the world. Currently walking in the neighbourhood, on the way to the mosque.






Lots of tomb complexes from the Ottoman times and located here.






The tomb of Sokullu Mehmed Pasha, an Ottoman stateman (which included the post of grand vizier i.e. prime minister for 14 years under 3 different sultans).






The entrance gate to Eyup Sultan Mosque, one of the most holy sites in Islam because it is said, that the tomb of a friend and standard-bearer of Prophet Muhammed, Abu Ayyub al-Ansari is located at the mosque.



The mosque is also the place where the coronation ceremonies of Ottoman rulers took place.






Below, this is supposed to be the entrance to the holy tomb.









Back in the street outside.

[bjd]

I really like those houses with the top floor sticking out in the picture with the street sweepers above. It gives the street a lot of charm.

But since the men going to that mosque look rather strict (Salafi?), I imagine the area is more conservative than others you have shown.

[anshjain97]

Indeed bjd, Eyup is more conservative than most other places I went to.



Eyup also has a huge cemetery. Around here, a teleferik (cable car) goes to a viewing area.






The viewpoint is occupied by a cafe named Pierre Loti Cafe. The small selection of items was pitiful (no food, only drinks?!) but people come here exclusively for the views.






The neighbourhood of Eyup.



Eyup Cemetery.









Back outside.



Back in the historic centre...this is a decorated wall by the roadside- something I didn't notice earlier.



One of the most prominent buildings while walking around the Hippodrome is the Museum of Turkish and Islamic Arts. Having been impressed by the calligraphy I've seen in Turkey (and India too), I was a bit disappointed to hear that the Calligraphy Museum is closed indefinitely. This made the case for visiting the Museum of Turkish and Islamic Arts stronger- after all, it is much more than just calligraphy.

Below are papers from the Damascus Documents, which are accepted as the first copies of the Quran.



A copy of an 11th century Quran.



A calligraphic panel.



A 17th century Quran stand.



A barometer.



These are the Turkish Delights I'm raving about! Though you can find as good, or even better baklava from many other places.



A small lane off Istiklal Caddesi. Locals and tourists who are tired of the main drag throng these side lanes for food.



A consulate (forgot which country's though)



Well, it was now time to bid adieu (or elveda) to Istanbul as we were flying home the next morning. It's been an amazing trip and it's a place I can return to in a heartbeat.



Istanbul from the plane.



This is probably the Bosphorus meeting the Black Sea.



Some mountains, probably in Iran.



An island off the Iranian coast.

[bjd]

Thanks for this great post, Ansh. It really makes me want to return to Istanbul, something I have been thinking about for a few years now but this is a good push to make it happen.

[mich64]

Fascinating report Ansh! Very well presented and I particularly enjoyed your city scape photos, beautiful. The mosaics and tiles are superb and must be even more incredible in person. I also enjoy your bazaar photos. This report seems to be perfect timing for Bixa!

[htmb]

Fantastic report, Ansh. I loved all the great photos as well as your narrative. Not much need for Bixa to have a guidebook after seeing this report, plus Questa's additions.

[nycgirl]

Those sicak halka look delicious. Such a good price, too!

The Bosphorus cruise looks lovely and the historical sights are so interesting. Was there commentary provided on the trip?

As others have said, this is a fantastic report. I like how you captured so many beautiful mosques and stunning mosaics as well as snapshots of neighborhoods and everyday life. I'm glad you also included some interesting views from the plane. I already wanted to go to Istanbul (and came close to going once) but this report has really opened my eyes even more to how fascinating a place it is. I hope I can get there one day soon.

[nycgirl]

On the subject of clothing, I remember years ago a friend of mine went to Istanbul when it was very hot and wore a short top while out and about (though not in a mosque). She said she got a lot of disapproving looks and felt very uncomfortable. At the time, I was an un-informed young woman who had only been to a few European cities (London, Paris, Florence) so this came as a surprise to me. I was grateful to learn from her mistake and I certainly wouldn't make the mistake of being ignorant of local customs today.

So anyway, Bixa, don't bring any midriff-baring tops.

[anshjain97]

Thanks guys for the encouraging feedback!

There was no commentary on the Bosphorus cruise. It wasn't a typical tourist boat ride- it was operated by the govt transport authority, using their standard boats, for a much cheaper price than similar boat tours in other European cities.

[breeze]

Ansh, I hope you do get to go back soon. Your photos are very evocative so everything you posted here I find fascinating.

At some point I'm going to have to come to grips with the geography of the city. Maybe by the time of your next trip or Bixa's I'll have it figured out.