Cappadocia

[anshjain97]

Between my two stints in Istanbul was 4 nights in Cappadocia, in central Turkey. So what exactly is Cappadocia? Simply put, it is a region rather than a province- it spans parts of several provinces and its boundaries are historic.

Cappadocia is exceptionally famous for its unique rock landscapes called fairy chimneys, famous millions of years ago by extensive volcanic action. The Byzantines used many rock formations for churches, and today some are used as homes and hotels.

Here I was, arriving at Nevsehir airport, one of Cappadocia's two airports.



Cappadocia is dotted with many villages/small towns, where tourists typically stay. I was staying in a town called Goreme, a touristy town 40 km from Nevsehir airport.

On the way...






Regarding of its large tourist inflows, Cappadocia is a conservative region.





















This is the town of Goreme.






To be honest, I took a long time liking this town. It seemed a bit too touristy for my liking- lots of travel agencies, English-advertising restaurants at every corner.






Despite that, I readily admit that this view is perfect.









A sign in the opposite direction as we leave the town boundaries.






Horse-riding is a popular activity.






Cappadocia, and the area around Goreme, is famous for Byzantine churches home to dazzling frescoes. Here's the first one- Buckle Church.









These frescoes are 1000 years old. Having said that, have a look at them again- they are remarkably well-preserved. Some of the defacing, as in most other Cappadocian churches and monasteries was done by Greek invaders in the 20th century.

[bixaorellana]

Thanks for this, Ansh, as much for the gorgeous shots of the frescoes as for the unvarnished look at the touristy town. I will not be getting to Cappadocia on my trip, but am still very curious about it. Looking forward to more.

[nycgirl]

Yay, Cappadocia! What a geologically fascinating place. I'm loving this report already.

How much was the flight, may I ask?

[bjd]

A friend of mine went to Turkey a couple of years ago and also went to Goreme, which seems to be the main centre for the geological formations and the Byzantine churches.

About "Greek vandalism", I would take that with a grain of salt. I would think Greeks would feel attached to the old, orthodox style of the Byzantine mosaics and frescoes. From what I have read, most of the damage is being caused by natural erosion and mass tourism.

You have to remember that there is a long tradition of enmity between Turkey and Greece.

[Deleted]

Oh, I'm getting excited seeing the geological formations. I'm sure that more are on the way.

[anshjain97]

Nycgirl, we paid about 160 lira (US$ 60) return per person from Istanbul to Nevsehir and back. Yes it was cheap, but only particular timings- and from the far-off airport in Istanbul (Sabiha Gokcen airport- on the Asian side).

bjd, I see- damage due to Greeks was the explanation given by every guide, curator etc. In many cases though the damage was exclusively on the faces of figures. But you're right- natural decay and mass tourism are likely to be far more responsible.

[onlyMark]

I took my time going through the Istanbul thread, and what a good one it was too. I've been a few times but never had chance to explore. Excellent stuff.
Now in Cappadocia and I'm peering at the photos so far to see where I recognise. It's truly an amazing place and I'm jealous as it's somewhere I could keep going back to time and time again. I used to camp just on the hill above Goreme and I'm looking forward to more exemplary photos.

[anshjain97]

Just ahead of this church is one of Cappadocia's most popular sights- Goreme Open Air Museum, home to many rock-cut churches, some with very impressive frescoes.






Here's just one interior picture, because they weren't allowed in the best maintained of the churches.












A sandstorm



One of Cappadocia's highlights ia hot-air ballooning over the amazing scenery. Companies operate about 2 flights a day, one at 5.30 am and one at 6.30 am. They pick up you, take everyone to a centralised point, have a small breakfast and then board. We had booked for the next day and after reaching the centre, we were informed the government authority cancelled all flights due to bad weather (too windy, with the possibility of rain).

So back to the hotel, trying to organise a car for the day.






At last notice, we organised a half day car, covering places 5-10 km away. It took a bit of convincing to add another place more than 30 km away because it was just in the wrong direction to everywhere we wanted to go over the next days. So now on the way to the town of Gulsehir, 33 km away.



On the way was the city of Nevsehir.






One of the sights around the town of Gulsehir is the Open Air Palace, the ruins of a 6th/7th century monastery with churches, refectories, dormitories and a kitchen.















A bit of the town of Gulsehir.



The other sight in Gulsehir is St Jean's Church, built in the 13th century.

[bixaorellana]

Really super pictures of the frescoes, Ansh. It's astounding to see them still glowing at us after all those centuries.

[anshjain97]

There was actually a huge restoration work of these frescoes in the mid 90s.












Heading to the town of Avanos.



The museum is supposed to be housed entirely in one of the rock formations.



Iznik tiles!



These are statuettes from Southeastern Turkey, dating from around 5000-3000 BC.



Ottoman ceramics.



Of course, the museum is just a front for the massive shop, which as usual first includes a view of people working. A recently finished piece.



We were given a pottery demonstration- pottery is very popular back home too but I've not come across this kind of potter's wheel before.















This is Pasabagi, a place which has the mushroom-shaped rock formations, quite unlike across Cappadocia.















Wow...a forest of rocks.






This area is called Devrent Valley and has unique rocks shapes- a camel, Napoleon's hat, a dolphin, Virgin Mary etc.









Entering another town, and one of my favourite, Urgup. It is famous for its winery, though we didn't visit any.



For now, we just drove through, though we returned on a later day.

[htmb]

The terrain is incredible. Fascinating! Can we assume there's a lot of shifting sand, too, or is that all rock?

From your picture, I can't figure out how the potter made his wheel turn. Any ideas?

[anshjain97]

As far as I know it's all rock, Htmb. I could be mistaken.

The potter rotated the circular bottom with his feet to make it turn.

[anshjain97]

Now entering another of my favourite towns, Ortahisar.









In the centre of town is the Ortahisar Castle.



It was a slow climb along thin paths.






View of Ortahisar town.












A small path off the main road where Goreme Open Air Museum is at.



Here is the El Nazar Church (Church of the Evil Eye)- it is like a hidden gem- the lack of the crowds shows as the church was locked- the caretaker opened it as we came.












Sign in Goreme.



A common activity since centuries is the whirling dervishes, a form of meditation performed by dervishes (Sufi saints).
This is the platform/'stage'.



We were booked for the hot-air balloon again the next day, but it was cancelled again due to bad weather predictions.

Here is a viewpoint near Goreme.






The town of Uchisar with the Uchisar castle.















Set in calm surroundings is this beautiful lake, called Krater Lake.

[onlyMark]

The potters wheel works on the principle of a flywheel. Several pushes with the feet to get it turning and it will keep doing so for some time. It looks like a stone wheel, as with a millstone.

[anshjain97]

On the way are some strawberry farms.









Cappadocia is home to many valleys- here is another such, called Ihlara Valley. Different to most other valleys, this one is a canyon which one walks through, with numerous rock-cut churches dotted about.





















While in the church, a massive hailstorm began.



Later, after it had passed.






Even though there were a few people around, I was expecting bigger crowds.






Making our way up to see another church.





















Lots of holes in the rock- these weren't churches. I wonder if they were used for people to live in.



At the end of the trail was another village.






Inside the last of the churches here.

[bixaorellana]

So enjoying this very complete report. The formations in the countryside and the ones integrated into the towns -- astonishing! Ditto the sheer number of churches. The hail must have added to what was already a rather dreamlike experience in that unique landscape. Could you even hear it inside the stone church?

[fumobici]

Now we all know why the region is so famous--its fame is well earned. What a unique and special place! Thanks for the quick tour.

[htmb]

This is so picturesque, I'd probably have to pinch myself a few times to make sure I wasn't imagining it all.

[anshjain97]

Thanks guys- the report is not yet over. Will post more later.

Yes Bixa - we could hear the powerful hailstorm inside the church. But then the hail particles were huge and they fell to the stony ground at high speeds... and yes, the hail on the ground certainly added to the atmosphere.

[nycgirl]

This is so interesting. Cappadocia is more extensive than I thought.

The mushroom-shaped rocks in Pasabagi are incredible. They remind me a little of the formations in Goblin Valley, Utah. They're different, though. The "goblins" in Utah are made of red sandstone, whereas the rocks of Cappadocia are volcanic, I think.

Looking forward to more. I hope you were eventually able to take that hot air balloon ride.

[anshjain97]

Luckily we could take the hot-air balloon ride- all thanks to our hotel owner and his good connections with travel agents across the area.

To continue- at the end of the Ihlara Valley trail.





There was a restaurant with a beautiful riverside setting. Herds, sorry hordes, of tour groups came every now and then.



It was fun playing 'guess the nationality.'

Another storm looked imminent.



It was hail again. This is the beginning of it.



Here is Selime Monastery- one of Cappadocia's many monastic settlements. Unfortunately the hail had made it very slippery and it was closed.









It was quite the sight with the hail.



Unfortunately the strawberry farms may have lost their crop.









Entrance to another valley, Pigeon Valley. We just had a look around, didn't walk the 4 km trail.



The trail winds its way around the valley, eventually reaching the town of Uchisar, as you can see here (with its castle).












Next morning we were booked on the second flight- at about 6.30 am. We saw the balloons of the first flight- at about 5.30 am they were just coming into the sky. The weather was clear. Our ride was happening!






Getting the balloons ready for the flight. The local rules state that there cannot be more than 100 balloons at any time in the sky.

[Deleted]

Oh wow!

[htmb]

Absolutely stellar photos, from the terrain, to the hail, and the balloons! I cannot wait to see more.

[anshjain97]

Pictures from the balloon ride.






Despite hot-air ballooning inherently being an adventure sport, the activity is heavily glamourised in Cappadocia and entails no aspect of adventure- it's a smooth ride with pilots who undergo heavy training and passengers really have nothing to do but take in the magnificent views.






Wind conditions are carefully monitored and based on that the route as well as takeoff and landing spots are decided.






Of course, prices are steep, adjusting to the fact that balloons will not fly every day, even in good seasons, due to weather. A standard balloon holds between 20 and 30 people, the more expensive ones hold about 12-15. Despite the price, this experience is a highlight for many visitors.












Beautiful views of the towns- the further one should be Uchisar.






This should be from around the maximum height- about 1100 m.












Landing... I don't remember what these people are doing- maybe pulling it to prevent the balloon from collapsing.



There's a Champagne toast at the end of each ride, at which time each passenger receives a 'certificate'- of course this is just touristy stuff- after which they drop us back to the hotel.

A few pictures of the city of Nevsehir.









The town of Urgup.

[htmb]

Absolutely gorgeous, and what a cool experience for you, Ansh.

[Kimby]

Jun 26, 2015 14:00:17 GMT nycgirl said:

The mushroom-shaped rocks in Pasabagi are incredible. They remind me a little of the formations in Goblin Valley, Utah. They're different, though. The "goblins" in Utah are made of red sandstone, whereas the rocks of Cappadocia are volcanic, I think.

I had to google it, but you are correct. It is "tufa" or "tuff" formed from deposits of volcanic ash. So it's a sedimentary rock, too, but instead of being made of lime deposits (like California's Mono Lake tufa towers), or sandstone (like Utah's Goblin Valley's hoodoos) the sediment is volcanic in origin.

Ya learn something every day!

[questa]

What beautiful pictures and memories, ansh,Those hail pictures are a bonus for us. I would have liked to go to other places in Turkey but was just taking a few days there on the way to Kazakhstan. Your photos have delighted me.

[bixaorellana]

Fabulous feat of reporting, Ansh! As Questa said, the hail pictures are a bonus. I love the one with the wiggly lines of the plowed field showing the dark earth & the white hail. All of your landscape pictures are outstanding. And the balloon ride! SO glad you got to do that! Were you scared at all? Really an experience to remember, and your photos are out of this world. Really, this whole area is other-worldly and Oz-like in the contrast between the bizarre natural formations, the colorful balloons, and the rather stolid aspect of Nevsehir.

[anshjain97]

I wouldn't say I was scared- it was certainly a new experience but I know safety standards are good. Unfortunately this statement comes in terrible timing- yesterday one balloon crashed injuring 18. But on the whole it can be considered safe.

Moving on to the town of Mustafapasa.



It is a charming town with lots of Greek style buildings.



On the left is the famous medresse (religious school) of the town.



Its front facade.






The medresse.















In Cappadocia, outside towns, you could travel for miles without encountering other vehicles.



Another of Cappadocia's old monasteries, Keslik Monastery.






There are frescoes inside, which cannot be seen without the help of a torch.















There is an ancient Roman city, from the 4th/5th century, known as Sobessos.



Part of the complex is the bathhouse.






The other part is the meeting house, which may have been a church, as tombs have been discovered here.



This part has a floor mosaic.

[anshjain97]

Continuing on from Sobessos...



Looks like another storm was brewing.






This is Sognali Valley- another area of rock-cut churches.



Here is inside one of the churches.






Another hailstorm started so we decided not to go to the other churches. A guest at our hotel had suggested a good restaurant in Urgup, we decided to go there for lunch. Pictures of Urgup.


















Nice views of Urgup and the surrounding area.















There is a tomb of a defeated sultan located on the hill. It wad closed though.



On the way back- an old, abandoned monastery.









Love Valley, on the way back.






And a bit of Goreme.

Below is Rome castle, used as a tomb.



Throughout the trip, it was interesting to make comparisons between Turkish and Hindi- many words were similar due to the influence of Arabic. In Turkish, 'dikkat' means caution, in Hindi it means 'problem'.



The mosque.












So that ended our trip to Cappadocia. Beautiful place, enough to leave anyone awestruck. It was now time to spend 4 more nights in amazing Istanbul. This is Nevsehir airport- tiny- has only 5 flights a day (all to Istanbul).