Pune

[anshjain97]

Earlier this month a friend of my parents was getting married in Pune. I decided to go along with him because I wanted to see the city, having not spent any 'meaningful' time here before. Pune is located in the state of Maharashtra in central India and is among the most historical cities of the state, as it was the capital of the mighty Maratha empire in the seventeenth and eighteenth centuries.

As with many other Indian cities, Pune is rapidly modernising, fueled by growth in the IT sector. For now, it enjoys a sweet spot where it is fairly cosmopolitan yet without the notorious traffic ills and humungous big-city property prices hikes which many other Indian cities suffer today.

My hotel was opposite the main railway station. Views from the room.









Now to the first sight- Aga Khan Palace, which occupies a significant place in the history of Independence movements of India.



Built by an imam (Islamic leader) titled Aga Khan III, this palace was built in 1892 to help the neighbouring villages which were struck by a famine.



Mahatma Gandhi, known as 'father of India' who was a freedom figher, was detained here by the British, along with his wife and secretary. His wife had died in the palace itself.









Mahatma Gandhi and his wife, Kasturba.
























Decided to get some snacks from the German Bakery (as the red sign says). It was the victim of a bomb blast few years ago so security is tight. It is also an extremely famous bakery so there are always waiting lines.

[anshjain97]

So, next morning.



A fort built by the Marathas, the Shaniwar Wada was built in 1746 only to be burned down in 1828. The fire apparently lasted a week. Today the fort complex is a large ruin plonked in the heart of Pune.

Entry gate.



And inside.















The perimeter was walkable, which provided good views of both the fort and the nearby area.












This fort and many others in India have a sound and light show where they use lasers etc and broadcast the history of the fort every evening. This seating is used for that purpose.









Another look at the gate.



This is the signature of the Maratha chief who founded the fort, Bajirao Peshwa.



Fort wall from outside.



And a look at the streets around:



A temple.



A model of a Maratha fort in a nearby building. Near Pune are many forts, but too far to reach with just a day in the city.

[Deleted]

It really does appear much calmer than so many other Indian cities, and it looks like it would be a real joy to stroll along some of the streets with a lot of trees.

[htmb]

Enjoying this very much, Ansh. Looking forward to more.

[anshjain97]

Continuing through the area.






A temple.


















This is another historic building but taking a quick glance inside it wasn't clear what it was being used for, simply that we weren't allowed inside.



The below shop is Chitkebandhu Mithaiwalla- a famous sweet shop in Pune.












There is a museum here, which aims to present historic artifacts in a much more appealing manner, and is started by a private person as opposed to the govt. Decided to have a look inside.

An ornate wooden front door.






This huge box is a dowry box. Dowry, paid usually in gifts during a marriage by the bride's family to the groom's family is still very common.



A selection of ivory combs.



A huge lamp arch.



Just imagine when all lit up- must be amazing.



A noodle-maker.



This cloth-painting shows scenes from the Hindu epic Ramayana.



This is a model of the fort, Shaniwar Wada.

[Deleted]

Looking for more information about Indian wood carving, I saw what a huge industry it is, just making reproductions of these splendid old things. But the real old ones that you show are always more magnificent.

[anshjain97]

Indeed Kerouac, wood-carving is a huge trade in India. I guess you would have seen any workshops/etc while in India?

A very detailed model of the Taj Mahal.



Puppets.



And these are leather puppets.



Chess board.



Another elaborate wood-carving.



Back outside- some streets now.












A synagogue which is locally known as a church. Just saw from the outside as non-Jews were not allowed inside.



It was a short trip so this is all I have... next time, I would like to explore the several forts around the city.

[bjd]

I'm always interested to see your street pictures, Ansh. Pune definitely looks calmer and cleaner than some other Indian cities.

[Deleted]

If that last photo is the synagogue, I imagine that it was first built as a church and changed religion later in life. I have never seen a synagogue with a steeple before.

[lagatta]

It was certainly a church. Many religious buildings have passed from one religion to another. I've seen a former synagogue by the Byward Market in Ottawa that is now some kind of Evangelical church (mostly Haitian faithful, I think) and another here not far from my place that is now a Cao Dai temple. And of course the famous Christian/Muslim and Muslim/Christian takeovers, former Jewish temples and synagogues among the daughter faiths and shrines of what Abrahamic monotheisms call "pagan" beliefs. And that is a Western perspective.

I knew of this city only from the historical events cited; it isn't a city one hears of much in the West in terms of how people live and work there nowadays. It does have pleasant green areas!

[Deleted]

It should probably be mentioned that a lot of older people in the West know this city as Poona. The name was changed in 1977.

[htmb]

I really like your street pictures, Ansh, and the museum looks to be quite interesting.

[anshjain97]

Thanks all for your feedback.

And thanks for the explanation Kerouac - actually I've seen only a handful of synagogues so I couldn't really distinguish between the synagogue from a church in the exterior.

[bixaorellana]

Hello Ansh ~ this is great "insider" stuff! Sorry to be responding so late, but I'm traveling & not keeping up with everything very well.

I love models and Pune certainly has some wonderful ones. Are you at all tempted to buy in these places with so much art and folk craft?

Your photography keeps getting better & better. Did you take any pictures of the wedding, or would that have been rude?

[mickthecactus]

Good report Ansh. You have a nice balance between street scenes, museums and architecture.

[anshjain97]

Thanks for the replies. Bixa, I hope you're enjoying Paris!

Actually, I was there for the wedding only for the final parts so missed the main ceremony. Even in that, yes, photography is frowned upon.

I couldn't find a market to buy these models from... but if I could, I would consider buying something unique.

[lugg]

It certainly does look an interesting place to visit. I really enjoy looking at wood carving so your photos were a treat.
I was intrigued by the synagogue as I have seen several with steeples in the Uk and I seem to remember in Boston as well, so did a little research. The synagogue was built by David Sassoon, a Bhaghadi Jew whose family had fled Iran.

[tod2]

This report has been most interesting Ansh.
Good that you pointed out that beautiful Temple as I noticed a sign underneath saying "Pune City Police"....so it's not a Cop Shop after all

Reading through the list of things happening to Gandhi I noted Gandhi's release was on my late mother's birthday, 6th May. I was just a bump at that stage having to reach full term in the November of 1944, when I decided to make an entrance on mother earth.

It is a pity there are no photos of the wedding ceremony. Indian weddings have all the colour and pomp that we westerners find fascinating. Oh well, you have shown us a previous wedding I recall??...

[anshjain97]

Thanks, tod. I haven't composed a report about a wedding but that's an interesting topic for the future if I could get some pictures... avoiding the actual main ceremony of course- but indeed the festivities are really fun, especially in North Indian weddings.

[Deleted]

Our very much regretted member hwinpp who passed away unexpectedly a couple of years ago made a brilliant report about a Cambodian wedding, if it can give you any ideas for an angle to take on such an event: anyportinastorm.proboards.com/thread/4311/cambodian-wedding-dinner?page=1