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Post by bixaorellana on Nov 1, 2015 5:41:16 GMT
It's time for my thread on Day of the Dead which I've done every year since the beginning of Any Port in a Storm, except for 2010.
I doubt I'll come up with anything new in the way of narrative this year, and by this time you all probably know as much about the holiday as I do. However, it remains a great photo-op, so this will be a rambling, impressionistic thread with some of the standards (lotsa market!) and some random views of Oaxaca thrown in as well.
To begin, I'd like to start by honoring the only difunto we all have in common, putting him front and center on our virtual altar, as it were. As the thread proceeds, I would love it if all of you would feel free to include your own loved ones who are no longer on this earthly plane. That certainly includes beloved animal companions as well as humans. Don't worry about where to put your personal tributes in the thread -- just post them when, where, and how you feel moved to do so, including pictures, songs, or whatever seems appropriate.
There is already a remembrance thread for Henning and Kerouac has made two gorgeous tribute videos from Henning's photos. To make this like a traditional Mexican altar, I'm including one of Henning's own threads full of his favorite things, plus a quote from that thread which I think sums up how we all feel.I'm writing this Saturday night, October 31. but I started my muertos picture odyssey on Thursday the 29th, at the little market by my house ~And now in thread time it's yesterday, Friday October 30. I'm going to wend my way downtown and then to the Abastos market. This is my same little market, but the entrance on the parallel street ~The Alameda -- the big area in front of the cathedral -- has all kinds of activities going on, including this tent which runs almost the whole length, all the way to the zócalo. There are stands from various publishing houses, but the most striking displays are the photos from the popular uprising of 2006.
History and t-shirts with Posada's famous engravings ~ I've never seen this disconcerting photo before. It's Brad Will on the mortuary slab ~
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Post by bixaorellana on Nov 1, 2015 6:03:11 GMT
I need to go spend some real time at the museum. Because I can get in free, I tend to pop in and out just to see if anything interesting is going on there. There is a Catrina outside one entrance, but almost nothing pertaining to day of the dead. As always, the first thing to see on entering is this anatomically correct cave man. He always cracks me up, since he's just sitting there in all his hairy glory, but there are no follow-up dioramas or anything. Hi, guy! Smack in the middle of the huge empty marble floor is this bed made of dried flowers~ A peek out the door onto the zócalo, with its bandstand and some of Oaxaca's trademark protest signs ~Some of the rooms have large old photographs of the Guelaguetza, along with displays of old cameras ~Upstairs past one of the murals ~And a look into the other staircase with a mural ~There are some exhibits up here that I'd like to explore, but I'm on a mission right now so will save them for another day. I do take time to admire the views from the many large arched French doors ~Bidding goodbye to the museum's Catrina, I set out into the bright heat of downtown Oaxaca on my trek to the Abastos.
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Post by bixaorellana on Nov 1, 2015 6:33:49 GMT
I usually enter the market right here, partly because I so admire the stuff they sell in this store ~This is the very flower stand where I started taking pictures in this market last day of the dead, but it's almost ravaged right now ~The tables in the aisle leading to the permanent flower stalls are full of items essential for making muertos altars. I won't be going into the market, though, as the real action is on the perimeter. Here's a man who likes his chicken nice and fresh ~ Bread for the dead ~Ocote -- fatty heart of pine for starting fires. The lady at the stand told me you can also make a tea for coughs out of it ~
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Post by Deleted on Nov 1, 2015 6:36:08 GMT
This is off to a great start because already the photos are totally different from the previous years. It is a wonderful idea to include Henning here as well as any of our other deceased since that it what Muertos is all about after all.
I've probably asked this in the past, but is there ever a 'bad' year for marigolds, when they are in short supply, past their prime or not completely blooming yet?
I would love about 50 of those little skeletons as Christmas ornaments on a tree.
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Post by bjd on Nov 1, 2015 6:47:00 GMT
I agree with Kerouac. I like this year's random pictures rather than a structured thread. It gives more of a feeling of wandering through the market rather than being on a tour.
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Post by bixaorellana on Nov 1, 2015 7:16:41 GMT
Thanks to both of you ~ most encouraging! Bjd, by the time I'm done, you might feel you've been dragged through the market. Kerouac, that would be a great use for those skeletons! As far as bad years for marigolds -- year before last the flowers were really skimpy because there had been a lot of hail and frosts. They were also more expensive because of their scarcity. Yesterday, slogging through the heat I was remembering how cold and gray it was last year at this time. What a difference El Niño has made this year.
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Post by bixaorellana on Nov 1, 2015 7:33:22 GMT
Waiting for transportation ~ Along with the people who get grouchy about having their pictures taken are people like this young man, who snapped to with a pose, and his friend the tablecloth vendor who organized everyone into posing. She inspected the result on the back of my camera, then immediately told the guy in the red apron that the picture made him look fat ~
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Post by bixaorellana on Nov 1, 2015 7:47:27 GMT
☠ I'm offf to bed now, but please check back later for a few bazillion more pictures. ☠
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Post by bjd on Nov 1, 2015 10:03:00 GMT
I just converted the price of the tangerines into euros! 25 for just over half a euro!
The women who are sitting on the sidewalks and wearing aprons and just selling a few fruits -- would they be just "informal" sellers with produce from their gardens?
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Post by lugg on Nov 1, 2015 13:06:50 GMT
Yeah another wonderful day of the dead thread to enjoy. I was wondering about the price of the double yolked eggs - is that per egg ?
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Post by breeze on Nov 1, 2015 14:23:45 GMT
The clarity and color of your photos blow me away--always!
In #6, the guy on the bus has a hand to his lips as though he's holding a cigarette (he isn't), but this made me wonder--no smokers? I've been trying to think whether I've seen many smokers in your photos from Mexico, and I think not. Of course I never thought of looking for smokers before.
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Post by bixaorellana on Nov 1, 2015 15:29:20 GMT
Bjd, when tropical fruits are in season, they're in season with a vengeance. I can hardly look at a guava anymore, because I'm sick to death of having to deal with the millions that fall from the little tree in my patio. Because of the abundance, prices can fall ridiculously low in an attempt to get rid of the stuff before it rots. During mango season, a vendor might charge 15 pesos for 3 kilos, for instance. But when they weigh it, you can see they're giving you 4 kilos instead of 3. It's common to see vendors with small amounts of home garden produce, or of any home product such as yard eggs. Sometimes the same people are there every week, but some only come when they have something to sell.
Thank you, Lugg! Those flats of eggs hold 30 eggs. The price is for the whole flat of 30. You can buy eggs here individually, or in any number you want.
I really appreciate that, Breeze! There isn't very much smoking in Oaxaca. You can buy cigarettes individually here, something which to a confirmed (ex)smoker like me seems to show a lack of commitment to smoking. I am used to and very much like that there is little smoking here. I was shocked when I went to Puebla @3 years ago to see how many people smoked. Ditto in Europe, especially in Istanbul with so many people walking down the street puffing away.
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Post by Deleted on Nov 1, 2015 15:40:15 GMT
WOW!! What Breeze said about the photos! The opening marigold pic jolted me out of a sleepy eyed state.
Of course, I did get very choked up seeing the photo, quote and dedication to HW.
The museum looks to be most compelling of a re-visit.
I also wondered what K2 asked about the flowers and when I read your reply, do remember that year when you reported on this. Calla Lillies to die for (pun intended...). But, where are the tuberoses? I remember when I was there a profusion of them and bought many bouquets of them for my make shift altar I erected. and now that think about it, see that they have been absent for a couple of years now.
The loquats are outrageous!!
What are the rock candy like chunks in one or two of the pics? Incense?
Well done! Looking forward to more...
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Post by nycgirl on Nov 1, 2015 19:25:48 GMT
What a beautiful idea to make incorporate tributes to love ones into this thread. I think I will post a picture at the end.
Excellent vérité-style reporting, as always. I feel as if I'm there, enjoying the sights, sounds, and smells of the market.
What's the name of the plush red flowers? They're so beautiful.
Interesting observation about the dearth of smokers there. I wonder what the reason is for the relative scarcity? I don't think money is necessarily the issue because I live in an underprivileged neighborhood and people smoke like chimneys here.
Funny picture of the enthusiastic flower vendors. I have to admit, I'm usually nervous about taking pictures of strangers because I'm afraid to run into the grouchy type that you mentioned. However, I'm much more comfortable at an event that people dress up for because the people there most likely jump at the chance to be photographed.
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Post by Deleted on Nov 1, 2015 20:17:02 GMT
NYCgirl,I believe the lush red flowers that you refer to are a species of Celosia, these known as "Cockscomb". Although, I'm not really mad about them, they do make a magnificent floral display particularly for a festival such as this.
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Post by Deleted on Nov 1, 2015 20:32:40 GMT
As our first little interlude to Bixa's fantastic thread, I will post a tribute to my French grandmother. I think that most of the people here know that I am pretty much devoted to my mother at the moment, but it is actually my grandmother who was always the person who loved me unconditionally. I cannot even begin to explain how devoted she was to me, but it should also be pointed out that I cared for her for 8 years in her retirement home in the 1980's, which very certainly helped to prepare me for caring for my mother now. I suppose that means to a lot of people that I have not had much of a life since I put family in front of my own life a lot of the time. But it was important for me, so I don't regret it. So here is Marceline in my previous apartment. The photo session was requested by my mother who wanted 'good' pictures before it was too late. She was right. imageshack.com/a/img633/5332/cZhp5R.jpg
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Post by mossie on Nov 1, 2015 20:55:29 GMT
Kerouac, you have gone over and above the call of duty. A most dutiful son and grandson.
And Bixa, yet again a superbly colourful and beautiful thread. I wand some of those black ants with dozens of legs.
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Post by breeze on Nov 1, 2015 21:29:27 GMT
How is it I can absolutely hate celosias, but when I see them in these photos they look so alluring?
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Post by nycgirl on Nov 1, 2015 23:32:22 GMT
That is a beautiful portrait, K.
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Post by bixaorellana on Nov 2, 2015 6:14:49 GMT
Casimira, thank you so much! I may have mentioned this somewhere else, but the museum is housed in the Government Palace -- all the government offices were moved well outside of city a few years ago. There is an exhibit on earthquakes I really want to see, inside of some kind of chamber. I need to ask about tuberoses. The last time I remember seeing or smelling any was around the end of one November, when my niece was visiting and bought some. That was well over ten years ago. Yes, that rock candy is actually incense, from the copal tree. * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * So kind of you, NYCGirl -- I am very glad you're enjoying this! Yes, Celosia/cockscomb for the red flowers, as Casimira said. It's in the Amaranth family, which yields edible seeds and leaves. It's common to put bunches of marigolds or cockscomb in vases on the porch at this time of year. Pretty soon it looks as though there was a bagel orgy on the porch, judging by the zillions of tiny shiny black seeds that fall from the cockscombs. There are way more people who are gracious about having their pictures taken than there are grouchy ones. I figure I'm doing the grouchy ones a favor by giving them an opportunity to vent their inner biliousness. * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * Kerouac, it is a great honor to have your tribute to your grandmother on this thread. You have commented elsewhere on her sweetness and that shines so beautifully from her eyes in your wonderful picture. * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * Thanks, Mossie! I am mystified about the ants you mention. Have you been smoking incense again? * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * Breeze, I agree that top-heavy Celosia with their odd stalks and rather ratty leaves can be less than attractive in gardens. But you can see that when they are clumped in masses, they are corrugated velvet gorgeousness, can't you? * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * Let's continue on through the market ~
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Post by bixaorellana on Nov 2, 2015 6:31:09 GMT
Into each life some bees must fall ~
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Post by bixaorellana on Nov 2, 2015 6:55:49 GMT
☠ And we're out of the market! More pictures of other stuff later. ☠
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Post by Deleted on Nov 2, 2015 11:34:59 GMT
Aw, I could have looked at a lot more of them. The bees are right to try to take back what was stolen from them.
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Post by breeze on Nov 2, 2015 12:02:59 GMT
Bixa, I did not know anyone could squeeze so much color out of a camera. Photo 4 in #20, in particular, grabbed me. I think having that much color in one place is probably illegal where I live, in the gray north.
Kerouac, your grandmother looks so lovingly at you. That's a photo to cherish, and thank you for sharing it.
Does anyone else think that celosia looks like broccoli? The brilliant red and green together would make a nice Christmas table decoration. Must email Martha Stewart pronto!
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Post by bjd on Nov 2, 2015 12:10:09 GMT
Are those heaps of chile peppers in the 5th picture of the last post?
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Post by questa on Nov 2, 2015 12:46:11 GMT
Bixa, why is it that whenever I read the word Oaxaca my mind says "maelstrom of vivid colour" ?
Splendid report, as usual.
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Post by fumobici on Nov 2, 2015 15:30:01 GMT
This is, again, just a joy to behold. I think you've gotten a little less shy about photographing the people and it deepens the feeling of immersion, of being there. Agree with everyone about the celosia, great opening with Henning, how do they know the eggs are double yolked, my word that's a lot of chiles, touched by the exhibit on the 2006 uprising, the bees and honey... Wow, this is like a full frontal assault on my eyes.
You get better at this every year, I may at some point regret this but, more please!
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Post by bixaorellana on Nov 2, 2015 15:34:44 GMT
Thank you for that, Kerouac! I am such a fan of markets that I was afraid I was clubbing y'all over the head with pictures. Breeze, this is indeed a vibrant place. And you surely know that it's an official foodie destination, right? (hint, hint). Martha will be gnashing her teeth over your decorating prowess. Bjd, those are heaps of chapulines -- grasshoppers -- in that picture. That is also what the woman in the 4th pic from the bottom in #21 is selling. Here is a closeup of the pic you asked about: Aw thanks, Questa! I think somewhere you said you didn't feel called to the New World, but I suspect there's enough exoticism here to interest you. I have to go do boring real life stuff right now, but will be back with more day of the dead later. Edited to thank Fumobici, whose compliments always fill me with joy. I hope you don't regret the more you're gonna get! As far as the eggs -- candling?
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Post by lugg on Nov 2, 2015 19:14:53 GMT
I think this could become one of my favourite threads on here, such a pleasure to view, your photos are just wonderful, the colours are so lovely Bixa and the subjects fascinating . What a lovely lady your Grandmother looks K2.
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Post by bjd on Nov 2, 2015 20:04:39 GMT
Oh yick, grasshoppers. I thought I could see insecty-looking things, but thought I must be seeing things so asked if they were chiles. I never realized Mexicans ate grasshoppers.
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