Small seaside Normandy: Villers-sur-Mer

[Deleted]

Last week being a bit stressful for various reasons, I felt a need to see the ocean. Nothing special, and I knew that the weather would not be good, but I needed a change of scenery from Paris. I know most of the coast of Normandy quite well, so it wasn't a voyage of discovery, just a bit of fresh air. I had made a hotel reservation for the night, but I did not head there directly. I drove through all of the various minor towns that do not attract rich international tourism but are just the holiday homes of the French middle class: Courseulles, St. Aubin, Luc, Lion and on to Riva-Bella. Veterans of the second world war probably think of these areas as Juno Beach and Sword Beach, but they just looked like "grey late winter beach" to me. Working my way around Ouistreham, Cabourg and Houlgate which are more geared to the monied classes, I finally arrived at my real destination of Villers.

Checking into the hotel facing the ocean, I was given the card of a restaurant that would give me a fabulous discount of 10% in the pedestrian zone. Although I had no intention of eating there and in any case it was not a meal time, I was happy to learn that the town at least boasted a pedestrian zone, so it was already time to go exploring. Ha, the pedestrian zone consists of two blocks of one street, and that's it. I didn't mind. Even in such a small area, there is usually a little bit of charm. And the place was not even a ghost town as these places so often are. Okay, I did not see any big crowds either, but I did at least see some people. Naturally, I usually wait for them to leave before taking pictures.

This old bath house must have been quite the spot in the 1930's. I was unable to determine what it is now, but it was well maintained.









This seemed to be the top hotel in town, also facing the sea.

[htmb]

Heading towards the sea, or at least a large body of water, is usually my instinct, too. I was so hoping you'd taken pictures for a report. I'm looking forward to seeing more. I've been on the southern coast of Brittany, and the southern coast of England, but never the coast of Normandy. I really want to go there sometime soon.

[Deleted]

I'm sure it's quite appealing on a warm sunny day.





Naturally, absolutely everything in these towns has been (re)built since 1945.





I saw that dogs can run freely on the beach from November 1st to March 31st. Totally forbidden the rest of the year.



One interesting thing about this part of the coast is that quite a few houses are actually "beachfront" and not cut off by the coastal road. That is pretty rare in France.





Even the dinkiest seaside resort boasts a dinky casino. Villers-sur-Mer is no exception.









The 1930's style architecture always fascinates me even though I instantly think of these houses as being dark and damp.







I came across the church, which was built at the end of the 19th century. Probably all of the upper parts date from the mid-20th century.







I was surprised that every single window was stained glass. That is very rare in these small postwar churches.



Then I saw that the local bourgeoisie clearly had a contest about financing the windows, because every single window was sponsored.

                   

Well, the end result wasn't bad, I suppose.







I thought it was interesting to see a window to the glory of destroying other people's religious art ("idols"). Daech is only copying things we already did.

[Deleted]

the proud little town hall



the marketless market square



The Greenwich meridian could use a bit of renovation.



I walked back to my hotel admiring the houses directly on the beach.













Here is my hotel. The rate doubles as soon as the weather turns nice.



It took me a moment to realise that it was just wallpaper on the back wall.



It's a great location for beachgoers, since this is what is directly across from the hotel.





The next morning there was a good view of the cliffs north of Le Havre.



I just had to drive 8 kms to Deauville to pick up the road to Paris, so the last thing I saw was the combined town hall-post office the next town up the coast. Then it was back to the real world.

[htmb]

The off-season is an ideal time to visit the seaside, in my opinion. I would have thrown my windows open to the sea, had I been you.

[Deleted]

I do not like a cold 4° wind myself. You're welcome to it.

[bixaorellana]

Having lived on the Atlantic and also on the Gulf of Mexico, the Atlantic gets my vote for excellent "grey late winter beach", as you call it. It invites brisk walks or just sitting and gazing.

The architecture alone would make this a wonderful report, but it's also great to see an area that tourists would ordinarily never see at this time of year.

I absolutely love the shot of the church tower with the delicate spring blossoms.

Question: is it possible that that particular church was not damaged by bombing, ditto other parts of town? When I went to the ancestral town in Sicily, I was told that it was never bombed in WWII, although nearby Palermo got slammed. I politely refrained from pointing out that Palermo was a much better target from an enemy's viewpoint.

[htmb]

Mar 24, 2016 15:28:47 GMT kerouac2 said:

I do not like a cold 4° wind myself. You're welcome to it.

Under a warm comforter....heaven!

[Deleted]

I just found one old photo showing some damage, but more buildings were standing than in many other towns. Probably being about 15km east of the landing beaches kept some of these towns out of trouble. The town was liberated on 22 August 1944, so it did take a bit of time after June 6 for the Allies to arrive there.

[bixaorellana]

That is interesting about the lag between the landing & the liberation -- I always imagined unrealistic movie scenes of a seamless movement from the beaches of Normandy to the surrounding towns.

Just looked it up, and August was the month of liberation. In Paris, the French Resistance had a successful uprising on August 19 and the US & Free French troops peacefully entered the city on August 15.

[bjd]

I had to look at a map to see where this is. It's definitely an area I don't know at all. I rather like the architecture, though I imagine I wouldn't much like the climate most of the time.

Those stained-glass windows look pretty good and older than post-war renovations.

Did you see the topiary dinosaur outside the tourist office?

[lagatta]

I've been in that area, though I don't recall that particular town. It does seem to have more original or carefully-rebuilt buildings than most where I've been.

Bixa, I'd say the Atlantic is even cloudier and rainier in western Europe than in northeastern North America, because of the prevailing winds. K2 had fairly good weather, if a bit chilly...

I'm always cold (yes, I know, living in the wrong place) so no, not an open window at 4°C. A good walk yes, but then bundling up indoors.

The cheese and cider look tempting...

[Deleted]

Mar 24, 2016 17:02:19 GMT bjd said:

Did you see the topiary dinosaur outside the tourist office?

I had planned to look it up, but when I left the next morning, I didn't feel like taking the turn away from the coast to where it was located. And I've probably seen enough topiary in my life already.

[lagatta]

K2, yes as I'd said, I think taking little trips like that is about the best thing you can do right now. Good thing you didn't happen to go to Brussels, though!

However, I would certainly travel there again.

[tod2]

I am catching up on all sorts of posts I've missed over the Easter period. I found your trip to the seaside town of Villers-sur-Mer absolutely delightful! I love the architecture - the Olde Worlde look about the place. The beach is superb. I wonder how many poroperties were bought up to put the Ibis in such a great location.
You made a great choice of a town to spend the night. Why did you choose Villiers in particular?