Besançon

[Deleted]

I don't think I had spent a night in Besançon since I was 7 years old, or maybe 11, in any case one of those childhood family road trips. There were no autoroutes back then and very few 'good' (fast) roads, so touring France was more of an effort. I clearly recall that Besançon was our stop on one trip before tackling the mountains the next day. The city is already in a hilly area, but that just gives a hint of what is to come when heading for the Jura and the Alps. That was frustrating to me because until I saw snow on a mountain, I was not satisfied. When you come from a flat hot place by the sea, there is often a great desire for contrast, so Besançon is just a teaser.

Obviously I didn't remember anything about the city other than it was located on a river (the Doubs), like many other French cities. In any case, during those evening stopovers of childhood all we ever did was check into a hotel, have dinner and go to bed.

So when I drove into Besançon this time, I didn't know what to expect except that the hotel would be easy to find due to its unusual building along the Doubs.



It was right next to the much more elegant Cité Universitaire -- a student residence.



I had already determined that there was a convenient car park just across the river, so I parked there and headed back towards the hotel.





One always wonders how they handle the shape of such a building on the inside. Here is my hotel corridor.



There was an excellent view upriver. downriver.



After dropping off my stuff, I immediately headed back out since I really only had the afternoon and evening to discover the city.



This park was just across the river from the hotel and seemed very appealing on a hot day.





Glancing back at the hotel to keep my bearings. As long as I was following the tramway tracks, I was fine.



The architecture told me that the city had, at least in the past, a strong military presence.







One huge complex was the Hôtel Dieu (hospital).









Without this sign, I'm sure that nobody would think to try to open this door. I know I wouldn't.





















It was only when I went back out that I discovered what I had seen.

[Deleted]

Besançon continued to slowly reveal its charms to me.







another military clue



I popped into this little chapel along the way, but it was not at all destined for tourists, as evidenced by its seating.













The local cafés were doing excellent business on this Wednesday afternoon.





Victor Hugo was born in Besançon.













This is the courtyard of the Musée du Temps, but I had already visited a timekeeping museum that morning, and that was my limit. Besançon was a major watchmaking centre for centuries.







I did not visit this church.



Actually, I was slowly working my way to the cathedral, which was uphill.









As for the citadel, there was a strong hint here that walking up to it was discouraged.

[Deleted]

This is the cathedral.













I concentrated on the windows because the other decor was just the same old stuff.

[bjd]

When I saw the heading of your post, I called my husband. Neither of us has been back to Besançon since we left 30 years ago, although I spent 8 years there and he a few more. So we enjoyed looking at the pictures and remembering what was where, although I admit we had to guess/argue about a few things.

It looks better than in my memory! A lot of the buildings have been cleaned up, particularly the old Roman archway leading to the cathedral, which used to be called Porte Noire. And there didn't use to be a tram, nor, of course, your round hotel. And I think I never went into any of the churches!

The Musée de la Mémoire used to be called Palais Granvelle. It used to be the home of the local "governor" when Besançon was part of the Habsburg's Spanish empire. This latter explains the use of a lot of wrought iron on windows in the old fancier buildings.

So thanks for this.

And you were right about the military presence. Vauban was busy in Besançon -- he built the citadelle above the city. And the place was full of barracks and soldiers when we were there, given that the city is not far from the border. Certainly all closed now.

[Deleted]

Thanks, I knew that you were likely to be more interested in this report than most people.

I sort of disapprove of the modern entrance to the birthplace of Victor Hugo. It certainly did not make me want to enter.



I thought it was interesting that the Frères Lumière, inventers of the cinematograph, were born on the same place.

























The Hôtel de Ville was all wrapped up because it was torched by a madman with a Molotov cocktail last year.



All of the important artworks were saved.



This is what faces the hôtel de ville. I did not go in, having reached my church quota for the day.

[Deleted]

Place de la Révolution appears to be the biggest square in Besançon, even though it is triangular.





The art and archeology museum is undergoing a total renovation, so that might be a reason to return at some time in the future.











Time to cross the Doubs again to get back to the hotel.



Beautiful love locks adorned the bridge. Idiots have vandalised the bridge.













This appeared to be the best place for young people to get cheap food.







The boardwalk along the river is very nice. There are also walkways down at mosquito water level.



Dusk was setting in.















Here is a detail from the tramway map.





Already time to leave the next morning. The sky was lovely. In fact, everything was lovely.



My little black automatic (!) Fiat 500 was awaiting me.



The road followed the Doubs.



I finally got a glimpse of the citadel, another thing to visit next time.

On the road again...

[bjd]

Thanks again. I finally realized what your hotel replaced. At first, we lived just behind there on a tiny street running off rue de Dole. Your hotel's location used to be the slaughterhouse (l'abattoir). It had already closed when we were there and was sold off in 1987. We left in 1986, so all I remember seeing is an unused piece of land with some buildings on it.

It does look pretty, especially in the morning light as you left. The nice thing about Besançon was how green it was around and quite easy to get out of the city into the countryside. But as I remember it, despite the university and the Centre de Linguistique Appliquée, both of which brought foreigners into the city, it was quite provincial.

And coincidentally, just yesterday while clearing things out, we found a map of Besançon, printed while it was occupied by the German army in WW2. It was found in the attic of an old house along the river, just below the Citadelle, and given to us by some friends living in that house. My husband is in the process of sending it to the Resistance Museum located within the grounds of the citadel.

[bjd]

And Place de la Révolution looks empty, but it used to have a big covered market on it, with an extra produce market and flea market on Saturdays.

Jeanney's used to be the only place in town to get any kind of "foreign" food in those days. Some N Americans used to go there to buy peanut butter.

Just one last stop in memory lane -- the two streets shown as pedestrian streets with shops used to be regular streets with buses on them. Since they run parallel within the old town called "la Boucle" of the river, they were one way each. In the early 1980s, city authorities decided to make one of them pedestrianized, to the anger of shopkeepers who figured they would lose business. Unfortunately, they bought some stone from China to save money, and whenever it rained, the stone became slippery, people would slip and fall and sue the city. So it all had to be torn up and replace with local stone.

And of course, there are a lot more shoppers once they don't need to dodge cars and buses while window shopping.

[bixaorellana]

Well, that was delightful! I'm rather pleased with myself for noticing right away that your hotel was built to reflect the reflection of the bridge in the water. Several of your later pictures in the thread really bring that out.

Some of the places you show are exceptionally beautiful -- certainly the park and those views that show how the city is snugged up against the mountain. Any many of your photos are downright lyrical -- all the chimneys, ditto the windows, that pale purple flower closeup, all the "blue hour" pictures ... so many, and that lady in white with the spotted dog is the cherry on the cake.

Bjd answered one of the questions I had when I saw the gate with the ancient figures and other Roman era bas-reliefs. Does the (or at least a) citidel date from that time?

The medieval madonna and child statue is exquisite -- one of my favorite things in this report. You do a great job of giving this city its due.

[bjd]

Bixa -- Besançon was already a town in Roman times, called Vesontio (the name is on a brick pillar showing something about a theatre). The citadel was built in the 17th (early 18th?) century by Vauban, who went all over France building massive forts and ports.

A stamp was issued in 1978 commemorating the 300th anniversary of the incorporation of Besançon and the area of Franche Comté into France under Louis XIV. Before that it belonged to the Spanish branch of the Habsburgs.

[htmb]

I'd like to know how "Besançon" is properly pronounced.

[Deleted]

[htmb]

Thanks!

[lagatta]

Yes, just note that there is no acute accent; I've often heard it pronounced Bésançon...

It is a very attractive small city and I'd enjoy a slightly longer stay there. I love the fact that there are trams in many not-very-large European cities now. I do not like that hotel - what is it, an Ibis? Usually I find them better-designed than that one. Though you did have a beautiful view. Indeed many cities are far more attractive after all the grunge has been cleared from façades.

Wonder if people can stay at the Cité universitaire out of school term...

As well as Hugo, I've always associated Stendhal with Besançon, but see that he was born in Grenoble. (I knew that, but read those books so long ago...)

Yes, the BVM and little round-headed Jesus are very appealing. They actually seem to like one another.

Do you eat supper somewhere on your short trips?