Paris in September

[tod2]

This time our visit was to be too short. Just 8 days to get my Paris fix. Oh well, I guess it's better than no Paris at all!
As always, we set out from either Munich or Frankfurt. This time we opted for Frankfurt being closer to Paris by train.
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Before leaving home I had sussed out all the bus connections from Gare de L'Est to Nation and from there to our next hotel and so on. I was determined not to lug my suitcase up and down metro steps. The bus worked out brilliantly so I patted myself on the back.

And here is our little hotel in Ave du Bel Air, just a stone's throw from the big circle of Nation.
This courtyard room was due for complete remodeling and I think we were the last occupants to sleep in a meadow of flowered wallpaper. I looked at this room last year and because of it's size booked it for our stay.
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First thing we needed was to stretch our legs after such a lot of sitting. We went straight to the corner Irish Pub and had a cold beer before setting off around the neighborhood.
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We were really tired by now so when we came across this delightful Chinese/Thai restaurant we had an early dinner. The Lok-Lac came in a really well used clay pot.

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Walking back we saw what was leftover from a market -
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In the morning I desperately wanted to go to the large Post Office near Buzenval metro and post off my surplus coins. These odd bits of currency had been stuck in a long forgotten drawer for years. They were neatly packaged and I received amazing help form the lady behind one of the counters at this post office. Satisfied my haul was on it's way to London we set off for La Defense.
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My little vineyard that I have been keeping an eye on since the vines were planted was lush and overgrown. Creepers had invaded the vines and I did not see many grapes at all.

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It was thick misty weather and the view wasn't good. Before leaving we investigated a new structure that had been erected since we were last up this way. Looks like fun for children in good weather. Positioned right next to the Esplanade La Defense metro it can't be missed.

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Then it was time for another lunch under the Madelaine church. I wanted my husband to experience this unusual lunch venue. The food on offer was not that good this time and having spent 16 euros each without any drinks found it not worth another visit in the future.

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That evening we made up for it at one of our favourite restaurants, Sebillon. It is more on the expensive side but they have one huge drawcard with the 27 euro, as much as you like, lamb dinner. The lamb here is like nothing I have ever eaten anywhere and the elegant surroundings definitely make you feel you are paying much more.
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Next morning it was time to move on again and the bus took us all the way to Montmartre with just one short change at Jules Joffrin.
The Roma Sacre Coeur Hotel is the last word in Shabby-Chic. The walls are painted by some little known artist but because so innocently done makes them acceptable. This time we were on the 5th floor looking down on the metro station of Lamarck-Caulaincourt. A huge basket of fruit was placed on our little 'froggie' table in the room.

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The room was not ready when we arrived so stashing our luggage we set off for an investigation of the Petite Ceinture - this section was quite close and appealed to me.

The bus took us to Porte de Cligancourt and the start of the Jardins du Ruisseau. Entering the old building we were told the gardens were only accesible from Rue de Ruisseau so we walked around to the other end. As soon as I saw those long stairs down to the bottom I knew the view would suite me just fine from street level.
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Carrying on down rue Belliard we came across this terrible tradgedy. There wasn't anyone around who could explain what happened but it must have bee a terrifying experience for the residents and owners of the burned out cars and motorbikes.
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Walking on we saw some lovely buildings and soon were walking down the avenue of trees where the old air vents were to be found that featured in Kerouac's report on the Petite Ceinture.

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When we got to Avenue St. Ouen our direction went in the way of Square des Epinettes for a well earned sit down.
It's not very attractive but did have this statue of Maria Deraismes.
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History of the lady:
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The area is attractive and bursting with life. I really liked it here.
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More on our short stay in Paris to come.....

[mossie]

Fire can really make a huge difference to stuff. Love those decorated benches.

[Deleted]

Tod2, you always show a wonderful variety of different things in your reports. I am always pleased to discover things and places that I have never seen in Paris.

[htmb]

You certainly were able to get lots of nice street scenes, Tod.

[bixaorellana]

What a great start, Tod -- so much variety. I do love that colonnade picture just before the one of Square des Epinettes.

[bjd]

I too like the coloured benches.

I would have stayed near Nation (old habits die hard!) but my first impulse would have been to tear than flowered wallpaper off the door in the hotel room.

[tod2]

Thank you all!
bjd - when I first asked to see the room last year my thoughts were 'Can I live with this busy wallpaper?' Only the lovely large room with separate toilet - yes, you don't find that in many hotels, the large cupboard space immediately as you stepped through the door, were the deciding factor. Two nights with our windows flung open wide in a tropical garden were ideal.
The manager explained that the room was due for re-modeling at that inspection. I think I may book it again just to see what they did with the decor!

I had made an appointment with the hairdresser the next morning. To my dismay the young Francoise had done a bunk and so I was attended to by the other ladies. Not to his high standard but clean none-the-less, I went back up to Chez Ginette to await our lunch date with Whatagain.
Isn't it funny the way you have a mental picture of the person but find it is completely blown out of the water when you eventually get together. Not a portly dark-haired gent, but a young spritely blond man came bouncing up the steps.
Thank you Mr. Whatagain for the lovely box of Belgian chocolates and joining us for a really terrific lunch!
Going our separate ways, we decided to go and see what was happening up at Sacre Coeur. Just the usual crowd but I love sitting at my favourite cafe` and people watch.
A young bride and groom were posing for photos at a table behind us.
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That evening we took advantage of being only three metro stops from Marx Dormoy. The covered market was still open and after eyeing all the wonderful produce decided we would come back and buy a few odds and ends for a picnic. We then went to Tin Tin and had a lovely Chinese supper.

Today we are meeting up with Kerouac for lunch and a tour of the Gobelins Tapestry and Carpet Factory.
Arriving at Cafe` Reveil Martin a little early I went to the entrance of Gobelins to get three tickets. Only to find out the tour was much earlier than anticipated. Not to be put off, Kerouac assured us we still had plenty of time to eat - and as it turned out, more than enough time.

The young lady conducting the tour took us into the part of Gobelins where they sit for hours, days, weeks, months and years, working on the same tapestry. All explanation was in French but we got a good gist of what was going on with Kerouac's whispered translation to us.

And here we go -
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The interior of the Gobelins museum displaying the most incredible taperstries.
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That was an amazing tour of the factory and museum - ever grateful for Kerouac coming along.
I would have like Chexbres to join us but unfortunately she could not this time.

Later that evening we did a spot of laundry before going to dinner just along the way at Le Cepage. The onion soup was good but not so much the cod which my husband had.
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Lots more photos to come.

[tod2]

A late morning today with a spot of laundry - a wander around our immediate neighborhood before we decided to go and pick up an early picnic supper at the market in in Rue de Olive.

And this is what we enjoyed that evening at our little table next to the open French doors.
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The next morning turned out bright and sunny so I asked the very helpful and most engaging reception man/manager, to book a table for lunch at Kong. I've wanted to go there for the experience for years and years.
We strolled along the Bouquinistes, not to buy but for mere curiosity. This was a favourite pastime of Rudyard Kipling's.
The Seine was blue and no sign of the recent flooding.
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We crossed over the road and walked past the shambles of the old Samaritain building. The renovation is presently in high gear it seems and I wonder if we will be disappointed at the result.
Here is the building No.1 Pont Neuf with Kong perched on top with it's glass dome roof.
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We ordered starters of soft-shell crab and duck spring rolls. Then enjoyed a beef fillet and I had a veal chop.
All the food was absolutely wonderful and the attentive service was terrific.
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Husband watching the cranes at work on the Samaritaine building..
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We pack the final few things ready to move out in the morning. The bus will take us right across town to the 14th Arr. and our next hotel in Ave Felix Faure.
Another adventure awaits in this part of Paris...

[htmb]

Your little picnic looks scrumptious!

I took a photo of window cleaners working on the outside of those windows, but didn't realize that was Kong at the time.

[Deleted]

In case you're wondering how the restaurant Kong got its name, it is because the most famous commercial ever made for Samaritaine was this one. Nobody has forgotten it.

[htmb]

I can see why. Gave me a good laugh!

[Deleted]

I love how it respects all of the criteria and imagery of the original King Kong film in 1933. And of course since there are always visual "mistakes" in such films, you can see the big pit of the Les Halles project but then Kong crosses the Pont Neuf to go to La Samaritaine, even though Les Halles is actually behind it. And of course Sacré Coeur is on the Right Bank as well, but the film needed the iconic scene of the store as seen from the Left Bank.

[bixaorellana]

They don't make 'em like that anymore! What a fun video -- thanks for showing us.

Tod, you always have such an interesting time in Paris. You should give lessons in spending time wisely and well. You must have been over the moon in the Gobelins museum -- your pictures are gorgeous. I'm getting hungry looking at the lovely meals you all had both out and in. And I'm downright jealous that you met Whatagain. Seems as though everyone has had that pleasure except for little me.

[mich64]

Tod this is an excellent report! Such a varied sampling of activities and the food looks splendid!

I particularly enjoyed your photos from the Gobelins Tapestry and Carpet Factory. I can only dream of finding anything remotely as beautiful as what you photographed. I have been going over and over the different tapestries and am going to try to bring some of the color combinations into the design plan I have for my kitchen and living room. Particularly photo #20 in reply #6, even though blue is my least favorite color, I am so drawn to this combination of colors. Also photo #26 is a favorite.

I loved the photos of the Jardins du Ruisseau.

When do you expect to receive payment for the currency you mailed to London?

[tod2]

Kerouac - that was really funny - I think they did well to make the gorilla look realistic from afar. Thanks so much for adding that to this report!

Mich64 - Thanks so much. I have received payment into my bank account shortly after they received the package. I was very pleased to have scooped just over 77 pounds sterling!

[tod2]

Was I glad to see the sun on the day we had decided to go to Vernon and see Monet's house and garden at Giverny! I really don't know why we have never made this trip before except to say it always seemed a mission to arrive at the right time to avoid the many coach trips, and crowds.
Well, we did not avoid them and rubbed shoulders with visitors from all over the globe but in the end did not find this too off-putting. I'm very glad we took the plunge at last.

When the train platform came up on the board at Gare St.Lazare hoards of people headed to it so we knew immediately where they were going!
Here are the photos of our day trip:

The Little open carriage train took us over the river after a spin through the streets of Vernon. Then dropped us in the carpark at Giverny.
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When we saw this queue slowly getting through the ticket office my heart sank. People were trying to book-on-line while standing in the line....that does not work as tickets have to be booked the day before you visit. We just joined the end of the line and to our surprise it only took just over half an hour to get in. No too bad.
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We did the right thing by going into the gardens immediately after gaining entrance.


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Monet's House next:

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Time to head back to the car park where we climbed aboard a very large bus and back to Vernon station.
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[Deleted]

Since my grandparents grew dahlias, they have always represented the French flower of summer to me.

[htmb]

It's nice that you got to Giverney. Too bad about the crowds though.

[tod2]

After returning from Giverny we had to go back to Hotel Roma Sacre Coeur to collect our cases which they kindly stored. Our account had been settled the day we moved in so with that taken care of we caught the bus 80 from Lamarck-Caulaincourt to Convention-Lecourbe, the stop nearest our next hotel for two nights. We were moving into the Best Western on Avenue Felix Faure.

The neighborhood may have a Starbucks and a Petite Rotonde right on top of Boucicaut metro, but there are lovely little bars and cafe`s on most street corners.
Right opposit Starbucks is this quaint place - unfortunately I don't recall the name but did go in to use their toilet in a birdcage. The whole place was filled with stuffed birds and animal heads.

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That evening we had dinner at a lovely little place on a corner further down the street.
I think we were the only tourists. The three piece band was terrific.
The downstairs toilet still had the old fashioned molded tiles.

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In the morning the weather was beautiful although overcast to start with. Even the top of the Eiffel Tower was shrouded in cloud.
I wanted to walk along the river's edge fom Pont Mirabeau and see how far we'd get.
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All the while there was loud music and commentary blaring out from somewhere ahead.
The Eiffel Tower was now looming overhead sans it's early misty crown.
We sat and had a beer but found the Pont d'Lena was closed off to traffic and people on foot.
There was no choice but to carry on to the bridge at Port Debilly.
This did not help either as the barriers prevented us crossing the road - thousands of women donning bright pink outfits were charging through. It must have taken an hour before I decided another loo stop was getting urgent. So we walked further down and managed to get across. No sign of any place where there could be a toilet except the Quai Branly Museum.
Must I really pay a fortune to use theirs? We continued on but things were not good.
Eventually I made the decision to turn and face the lush foliage sprouting from the museum walls and stuff a diaper down the front of my pants. I had brought some along(used for the incontinent elderly) but should have donned it earlier. Never mind, I stood and peed right there. As I thought of Bixa my relief was indescribable! In the wink of an eye the item of my relief was in the nearest bin.
Here are the ladies - You might notice the emergency vehicles which rushed back and forth.

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I didn't think I could take another step but the only transport was the metro as street were still closed off for another hour or so.

More photos coming...

[Deleted]

It is breast cancer month. That's what the pink is for.

[tod2]

Oh heck, I should have mentioned that. Didn't know it went on for a month. No sign of any pink where I live.

[lagatta]

And then it is blue in November for prostate cancer month, or "Movember". Though so many young men nowadays have beards and moustaches that is has become sort of beside the point.

[tod2]

Having been revived by a coffee at a corner cafe` we thought a visit to Parc Monceau would end the day nicely, but first I wanted to see the imposing Russian Cathedral of Saint-Alexander-Nevsky. This is where Picasso married Olga Khoklova, a member of the Ballets Russes.
The fact that she was the daughter of an officer in the Czar's army heightened her prestige in the eyes of the Spanish painter.

Unfortunately the cathedral was undergoing a renovation which spoiled the photos.
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Some souvenirs on display in the entrance.
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La Ville du Petrograd.
Facing the Russian Orthodox Church, The City of Petrograd is a veritable institution in the world of Russian restaurants in the capital. Founded in 1924, this very colorful setting in pink and gold -True small dolls house has lost nothing of its panache. business lunch and cabaret lovers in the evening come to revel Russian dishes (Beef Stroganoff, caviar Sevruga and Osetra, pelmeni Siberian, three kinds of minced meat and rolled in batter and served with a broth).

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And right next door is another restaurant and Russian grocery store.
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Since 1918, DARU, opened by an officer of the guard Nicolas II, the restaurant with its grocery store, is reputed to be the oldest Parisian Russian establishment.
Today, DARU continues this tradition of quality in the kitchen and the art of hospitality in the heart of the sixteenth arrondissement.

And now to lick an icecream in the park..

[tod2]

Being a Sunday the Parisian families were out in force on the lovely sunny day - even though the afternoon had passed.
We made straight for the kiosk selling ice creams and settled down to watch the children having a lovely time on the carousel.
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After a good rest it was time to see what there was to photograph.

The 'handerchief' tree or a Davidia tree. Spring is the best time to see it in all it's glory. Covered in masses of bright pink flowers.
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I noticed a lot of the 'flowers' were a actually vegetables. The Swiss Chard seemed to be doing great.
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It was lovely to see the tiny tots enjoying a pony ride - hovering parents near at hand.
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Soon to head back for the next load of kids.
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Time for us to make our way home to pack a few things as tomorrow we go to Metz and then on to Interlaken in Switzerland.
Leaving the way we came in we admire the magnificent ironwork Gates with their gas lamps incorporated into their design. In the center you can see the embossed galleon - the symbol of Paris.
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I'ts our last night in Paris for yet another year. Our 17th visit. To end our visit I am determined to enjoy a Moroccan dinner. Luckily there is one within walking distance of our hotel.

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www.thefork.com/restaurant/tipaza/31566

The Eiffel Tower can just be seen peeping through the trees as we go back to the hotel.
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Now let me play you out with one of the most delightful experiences one can have on the metro.

[mich64]

I am always learning something when I read through holiday essays, thank you Tod! Loved the Russian restaurant, I hope I can find it on our next visit!

Having been to Metz and Interlaken, I am looking forward to your view of those areas.

[Deleted]

Next time you can all see the new Russian cathedral and cultural centre which is being inaugurated on October 19th in Paris. Vladimir Putin already invited himself to this event (since he paid for the building) more than a year ago, and now the French government is stuck in a damned-if-you-do, damned-if you don't situation. They will receive scathing criticism from certain factions if they allow him to come and scathing criticism from other factions if they snub him. So right now they are pretending that he has to stop bombing Aleppo before he comes and also make peace with Ukraine. Ha ha ha. In the end, the French government will just be obliged to say that "frank" discussions were held.

[tod2]

Thank you Mich64 - It was our initial intention of combining a visit to Parc Monceau with visits to Musee Jacqemart Andre`, Musee Nissim de Camondo and Carnuschi. But the long walk in the morning and most of the afternoon meant we had run out of time except to pay a quick visit to the Russian Cathedral. All are in the surrounding area of Parc Monceau.
I will be starting my report on Switzerland shortly.

Kerouac, it seems to me that being in Paris on 19th Oct., may not be so pleasant?.
We will definitely be spending more time in Paris next trip. I have so much to see.

[lagatta]

Tod, as you know, Paris is a very big city. You just have to avoid that area on the 19th.

[Deleted]

Well, Chexbres, Whatagain and I are probably the only Anyport members who are likely to be in Paris on the 19th, and none of us tend to hang out in the 7th arrondissement, so we are almost certainly safe from the Putin hoopla.

As for the "old" cathedral, I presume that it will be downgraded since you can only have one cathedral per religion in a city.

[Deleted]

Surprise, surprise, Putin announced today that he is postponing his trip to Paris.