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Post by mossie on Apr 17, 2020 14:55:21 GMT
A lovely place, and what a tonic after only being allowed to wander round my local estate these past few weeks. And I'm not sure my letter of doom allows me even to do that !
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Post by kerouac2 on Apr 17, 2020 15:00:28 GMT
It was a delight to see these new photos and also to revisit the older ones. Except for the market photos, it looks like the country was already in confinement!
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Post by lagatta on Apr 17, 2020 16:23:13 GMT
I loved this. Bixa, how could you miss the sleeping doggy among the pussycats and other critters? I got a bit tired towards the end, but that is COVID-affected (hopefully not infected) me, not this beautiful thread. I'll return soon.
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Post by bixaorellana on Apr 17, 2020 17:26:51 GMT
As Mossie says, this is a tonic! Absolutely beautiful and a real thrill to see this sequel to your first Ode. I just wallowed in those gorgeous long views and in the pictures of the river, both wild and channeled. You were disparaging about your shots inside the church, but I can't agree as really, you captured it beautifully. The happiest pictures are also the most poignant right now -- friends hanging out together & not worrying about distancing or having the taste of hand gel on their sandwiches.
Thanks so much for this, Lugg -- you gave us something we all obviously needed!
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Post by bjd on Apr 17, 2020 18:37:37 GMT
Just seeing this thread for the first time and wondering how I missed it. Then I realized we were in Canada at the time and I never caught up with it all. Lovely photos of an area I have been in several times. You definitely chose a good time of year to go there -- either spring or fall is best.
Hoping you will be able to travel again soon. You were absolutely right to rent a car to let you see small places and you certainly took good advantage of it.
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Post by lagatta on Apr 17, 2020 21:08:44 GMT
I wonder what is possible to tour in this area (I have been very close to it) for a non-driver, and no longer fit enough a cyclist to tackle those hills). I fear that there are no longer rail lines. I will put up with buses (yecch) but they have to be somewhat dependable.
So many pictures now make me cry because they show people (including my own friends) embracing each other. I respect the rules (though there is NO WAY I can restrict grocery shopping to every two weeks). Rotten vegetables are probably not much more salubrious than covid-19.
An old friend died exactly a year ago, of unrelated bladder cancer. I hate to think how it would have been for his widow and adult children right now.
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Post by bjd on Apr 18, 2020 5:55:51 GMT
Lagatta, there are still some trains on the main lines -- Toulouse to Carcassonne to Narbonne to either Barcelona or Montpellier. But quite a lot of areas have put in local buses, including the Bus à 1 euro www.ter.sncf.com/occitanie/offres/tarifs-occitanie/billets-1euroOf course, there aren't a ton of them but still it is a possibility. Those belong to SNCF but there are also other regional bus lines. It's slow because they go through all the villages.
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Post by lugg on Apr 18, 2020 11:06:58 GMT
Thank you all for your lovely comments and encouragement. It gave me a lift too so really glad it seems to have done that for you too. But quite a lot of areas have put in local buses, including the Bus à 1 euro My friend visits her house as often as possible (or did )and quite often does not hire a car but uses the 1 euro bus. Ive also met several people who were travelling around the region just using public transport particularly the 1 euro bus. Certainly Carcassonne to Quillan is only 1 euro. Great value. And I'm not sure my letter of doom allows me even to do that ! I guess Mossie that getting about a bit is important too ; as long as you maintain social distancing and don't touch anything. I would probably do the same. it looks like the country was already in confinement! I have never been in the height of Summer - late June was the nearest but even then the area was generally quiet, at least much quieter than other parts of France. ( Except Carcassonne of course which can be hectic but even there, at night, its a delight)
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Post by lagatta on Apr 18, 2020 11:07:09 GMT
Merci!
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Post by breeze on Apr 18, 2020 18:58:26 GMT
Lugg, this is a great addition to your earlier report. The architecture of the region is somehow right-sized and homey, chateaux apart.
Seeing friends sitting in the sun, chatting, sharing lunch is a satisfying look back at what used to be normal.
I'm enjoying travel diaries and photos more than ever before. Who knows when we'll be able to travel safely again? And what will we find when we return to our old favorite places?
Oh stop sniffling, breeze. It's just another two weeks till you can go out for groceries again.
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Post by htmb on Apr 18, 2020 21:18:52 GMT
Delightful, Lugg! Thanks for coming back to this wonderful thread to add more stories and photos. I really enjoyed visiting this part of France back in 2008, and would love to return some day.
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Post by lugg on Apr 20, 2020 10:38:56 GMT
Thank you both and yes I'm with you Breeze hopefully it wont be too long before life returns to normal , or at least a semblance of normal.
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Post by lugg on Apr 20, 2020 10:49:10 GMT
Narbonne is the largest commune in the Aude with a population of around 50,000, once a seaport its now several miles inland but of course the immediate landscape is very different than other parts of the Aude being so close to the sea. To the south and east is the Narbonnaise coastal park with many lovely villages and some good beaches. This was the first visit my sis and I had made to this part of the Aude . Our apartment was on the edge of Narbonne but only about a 15min walk to the central area. The apartment was in a large house , once a farmhouse but now most of the land has been sold off for housing developments, new roads etc. and the rest has been used to develop a tennis club with a couple of paddocks for a couple of horses. live.staticflickr.com/65535/49786204547_99582c4a3d_b.jpglive.staticflickr.com/65535/49786204097_6ebc4a4748_b.jpgLooking out over the tennis courts from the kitchen. The tennis club also had a very nice restaurant attached – so that was perfect for dinner one night. live.staticflickr.com/65535/49769028521_c0ecfa504c_b.jpgThe elderly horses – the only animals to give a hint to the history of the house. live.staticflickr.com/65535/49768975871_584a4f17c6_b.jpgAnyway it was very comfortable, well equipped with a delightful owner, so just perfect. A little of Narbonne. There are at least two great reports – apologies if I have missed any others. Htmb and Bixa posted these …. I will try not repeat the information within those and instead concentrate on some of the places we visited from Narbonne. But yes we visited the cathedral, and some of the same places. anyportinastorm.proboards.com/thread/7790/narbonne-nightanyportinastorm.proboards.com/thread/7891/narbonne-dayOf course shortly after we had arrived and dropped our belongings , we set out to explore a little of Narbonne and to pay a visit to the market to buy groceries and we also bought some very nice fish for that evenings dinner – as Narbonne is close to the sea, the choice was fantastic. The centre was a very pleasant walk from our apartment mostly along the promenades which line the Canal Robin . The canal connects Narbonne to the Canal Midi (and I think possibly to the Aude ?) The weather had changed as you will see, a little gloomy and some rain, but no real signs of the major storms to come a few days later. live.staticflickr.com/65535/49786229277_f456029ace_b.jpglive.staticflickr.com/65535/49785907716_27fca89b8e_b.jpglive.staticflickr.com/65535/49785369218_8736d3440b_b.jpglive.staticflickr.com/65535/49786226887_8cd179f535_b.jpglive.staticflickr.com/65535/49786136167_92e1538d4a_b.jpglive.staticflickr.com/65535/49785313043_50539406e8_b.jpglive.staticflickr.com/65535/49786171332_c65aaa2500_b.jpgLes Halles the market hall, built in 1901 live.staticflickr.com/65535/49786229492_22d62d269c_b.jpglive.staticflickr.com/65535/49785907451_cd78706071_b.jpglive.staticflickr.com/65535/49785852036_22e5604f6a_b.jpgThere is also an outdoor market just outside Les Halle which is as pretty and as fun to look around as many other French markets . We noted some gorgeous flower stalls and made plans to buy one for our godmother to take to her later in the week. live.staticflickr.com/65535/49785851831_4fc389f8ef_b.jpglive.staticflickr.com/65535/49786173967_fb8816bbc8_b.jpglive.staticflickr.com/65535/49785851611_7c9dd1113c_b.jpglive.staticflickr.com/65535/49785314323_cd641fe2d4_b.jpglive.staticflickr.com/65535/49785850996_c976bf685d_b.jpglive.staticflickr.com/65535/49785850731_5258d800af_b.jpglive.staticflickr.com/65535/49785278263_9ba041f18a_b.jpglive.staticflickr.com/65535/49785278013_0bc347dceb_b.jpg(out of chronological order but this is what we bought at a later date ) live.staticflickr.com/65535/49785813716_2e9c678a4d_b.jpgAnd for our dinner ?Probably one steak would have sufficed but at least we could have some cold at a later date. live.staticflickr.com/65535/49785415318_2b04b5c48d_b.jpgIf I get chance I will maybe return to Narbonne but first I will show you some of the places we visited from here. FONTFROIDE ABBEY The Abbey is not far at all from Narbonne in fact we already had an idea as to how to get there as we had seen some signs for it as we drove into Narbonne. It is a rather gorgeous place and we had a really enjoyable time there despite the, at times, torrential rain which unfortunately meant we did not explore the gardens as much as we had hoped. Neither did we get to explore the wider grounds ( Fontfroide Massif) which has over 50kms of footpaths through wooded hills. This is not may photo but none of mine give an understanding of the location as this one does live.staticflickr.com/65535/49792994757_b0057790f2_o.jpgThe Abbey itself came into being initially in 1093 and was developed on land given to Benedictine monks. The Abbey takes its name from the Fons Frigidus , cold water fountain but Fontfroide did not really develop until 1145 and its attachment to the Order of Cîteaux . The Cistercian monks, under the direction of St Bernard de Clairvaux, wish to return to the purity of the rule of St Benedict, advocating poverty, austerity and architectural sobriety. www.fontfroide.comThe monks in later century’s became involved in the crusades against the Cathars and later as centuries past became the monk’s lifestyle became less austere . The monastery was closed , but not damaged just after the French Revolution but was re-founded in 1858 until 1901 when a law passed to put an end to monastic communities, and the last of the monks fled to Spain The premises, changed to a private home in 1908, when the artists Gustave and Madeleine Fayet d'Andoque bought it at an auction . They restored it over a number of years and used it as a centre for artistic projects. It remains in the family to date. I found this article which hints at some of the work undertaken to restore Fontfroide. www.laramoneta.com/to-do/abbaye-de-fontfroide-private-rooms/Of course over the 100s of years the Abbey was added to and today is a collection of buildings / extensions of different architectural types. live.staticflickr.com/65535/49785415053_e886ee95e3_b.jpglive.staticflickr.com/65535/49785952371_a76ff286a3_b.jpgLouis IVX Courtyard live.staticflickr.com/65535/49785945846_eb721b3fda_b.jpglive.staticflickr.com/65535/49785944376_aa65c70de3_b.jpgIn the courtyard itself you can see that the surrounding buildings are separated by several centuries. live.staticflickr.com/65535/49786264497_84b86055d7_b.jpglive.staticflickr.com/65535/49785943796_b131840e5a_b.jpglive.staticflickr.com/65535/49785943051_1cca32a873_b.jpglive.staticflickr.com/65535/49786270387_33641e6a9b_b.jpglive.staticflickr.com/65535/49786271792_17c3ace18c_b.jpglive.staticflickr.com/65535/49786270767_2d9c709770_b.jpglive.staticflickr.com/65535/49785380838_dcf4c2880f_b.jpgI am not sure how old the cross is on the hillside but it looks relatively modern. live.staticflickr.com/65535/49785945541_b5638fd75e_b.jpglive.staticflickr.com/65535/49785944986_43b3cb5c9b_b.jpgAnyway let’s have a look inside some of the buildings; The entrance to the refectory does not give any clues as to how it looks from the inside, live.staticflickr.com/65535/49785410853_2c25de7693_b.jpgor maybe a slight hint if you look closely live.staticflickr.com/65535/49786268617_2ed5732c68_b.jpgMagical live.staticflickr.com/65535/49786262357_4951406b35_b.jpglive.staticflickr.com/65535/49785942091_588caa8136_b.jpgMoving further inside, we made our way from the refectory towards the cloisters live.staticflickr.com/65535/49785942376_2d8e5f9f67_b.jpglive.staticflickr.com/65535/49786268287_3ed935c4da_b.jpglive.staticflickr.com/65535/49785947581_2256123d66_b.jpglive.staticflickr.com/65535/49786267512_88027f3c71_b.jpglive.staticflickr.com/65535/49785946731_ebbdd85931_b.jpglive.staticflickr.com/65535/49785942631_3874dfcb50_b.jpg The cloisters were built and added to starting from the 13th century ; they are some of the most beautiful I have seen. I can tell how taken I was now just by the sheer amount of photos I took ; live.staticflickr.com/65535/49785937371_9348c613c1_b.jpglive.staticflickr.com/65535/49785938061_f677e02ebd_b.jpgAnd today; live.staticflickr.com/65535/49785939991_c5667b0a17_b.jpglive.staticflickr.com/65535/49785403098_c7fa4727bd_b.jpglive.staticflickr.com/65535/49785401588_5040210f0f_b.jpglive.staticflickr.com/65535/49785403908_7164179bb0_b.jpglive.staticflickr.com/65535/49786256822_3005ea7599_b.jpgLooking out to the cloisters from the Chapter House live.staticflickr.com/65535/49786257697_bdb5632bbb_b.jpgDetails of the columns Of course wine was absolute necessity even in the very austere Cistercian monks heyday – the abbey of course has its own vineyard which produces grapes for wine still. live.staticflickr.com/65535/49785401803_f52d86384f_b.jpglive.staticflickr.com/65535/49785398093_bd16ec190d_b.jpgAnd looking down from above live.staticflickr.com/65535/49786248057_aa73acc331_b.jpglive.staticflickr.com/65535/49785388443_e8d46933f4_b.jpgOk best move on – into the abbey chapel itself. There are lots of new stained glass windows which are stunningly beautiful but probably have the Cistercian monks turning in their graves . live.staticflickr.com/65535/49785394648_0e02b1e71a_b.jpglive.staticflickr.com/65535/49785395208_b7bc8fc56a_b.jpglive.staticflickr.com/65535/49786252252_fe4e05875d_b.jpglive.staticflickr.com/65535/49786253557_ec2f647867_b.jpglive.staticflickr.com/65535/49786253047_47db039029_b.jpglive.staticflickr.com/65535/49785928901_433eb3af97_b.jpglive.staticflickr.com/65535/49785391313_78b4413923_b.jpglive.staticflickr.com/65535/49786254272_62fdde913f_b.jpgAnd some of the most modern of all are in the Chapel of St Bernard which I think must have been one of the earliest church buildings. Maybe a little Marmite ? live.staticflickr.com/65535/49785930346_be8bdf7a20_b.jpglive.staticflickr.com/65535/49785930561_2d3a3f5c4f_b.jpglive.staticflickr.com/65535/49786250842_70175ed1d4_b.jpglive.staticflickr.com/65535/49786250212_c41e274e6e_b.jpglive.staticflickr.com/65535/49785391833_c8b81be85d_b.jpglive.staticflickr.com/65535/49785392568_13ce40171f_b.jpgDown in the cellar though some of the ancient stained glass has survived and these are just wonderful. The cellar was also showcasing some fabulous photos of the Abbey ( and I think other local places ). live.staticflickr.com/65535/49785388123_e32808bc2e_b.jpglive.staticflickr.com/65535/49786243167_48d1eeffb4_b.jpglive.staticflickr.com/65535/49785384323_44d9386b17_b.jpgBut first some of the windows and a little detail; live.staticflickr.com/65535/49786243717_920d7c741a_b.jpglive.staticflickr.com/65535/49785922471_8316c5cafa_b.jpglive.staticflickr.com/65535/49785385538_4779a0a3c2_b.jpglive.staticflickr.com/65535/49785386673_acaf8ee2a9_b.jpglive.staticflickr.com/65535/49785387013_ccd53a092b_b.jpglive.staticflickr.com/65535/49785925046_b05dda6988_b.jpgI would love to be able to claim this as my own live.staticflickr.com/65535/49785920981_ff4b8fb987_b.jpgTo finish this part of the report let me show you just a little of the gardens. live.staticflickr.com/65535/49786272137_f263e9f9b2_b.jpglive.staticflickr.com/65535/49785382288_edea9f2fab_b.jpglive.staticflickr.com/65535/49786238592_2780d0ab81_b.jpglive.staticflickr.com/65535/49785917986_cc5ee71df5_b.jpglive.staticflickr.com/65535/49785916726_11718590e3_b.jpgIt was raining quite heavily and I struggled to keep the lens clear. The roses were past their heyday but would have been gorgeous earlier in the year. The rose garden was redeveloped in 2009 and is one of the largest in the South of France holding 2500 types including the Fontfroide Abbey rose. live.staticflickr.com/65535/49785377803_eec5aeb5a5_b.jpglive.staticflickr.com/65535/49786237357_e6420689a5_b.jpglive.staticflickr.com/65535/49786235347_76f577a99f_b.jpglive.staticflickr.com/65535/49785376313_754fc2b0c1_b.jpgI really needed to be wearing wellies at this point live.staticflickr.com/65535/49786234232_d4de693c88_b.jpglive.staticflickr.com/65535/49785375503_6cf1b39efb_b.jpgI guess any sensible bug had holed up in this; I tucked myself under the tree next to it waiting for the rain to lessen live.staticflickr.com/65535/49785911311_6a6058be69_b.jpglive.staticflickr.com/65535/49785373453_cde3a30f8b_b.jpg…It got worse so I gave up and went to find my sis who had opted to stay in the café. A quick beer and then home. live.staticflickr.com/65535/49785910716_0d1074384e_b.jpglive.staticflickr.com/65535/49785379798_54e2a465c9_b.jpgMore to come…
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Post by bjd on Apr 20, 2020 11:16:22 GMT
This is wonderful, Lugg. I am ashamed to say that I have never visited Fontfroide, even though I kept telling myself I should. The rose garden is indeed famous but would have to be visited in May since it's a warm and dry area, despite your downpour.
As for the canal, the Canal du Midi doesn't flow through or using any rivers. It was built to connect the Atlantic to the Mediterranean.
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Post by mossie on Apr 20, 2020 11:16:47 GMT
Another tour de force, which I admit I have rather skimmed through..BUT where is the photo of the handbag you bought yourself???
To be serious, old stained glass can be glorious, most of ours is Victorian and the quality varies considerably.
But well done, and thank you.
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Post by casimira on Apr 20, 2020 13:58:43 GMT
Thank you for this wonderful report Lugg.
So lovely in every way.
I don't see very many people out and about. It's as though you had this magical place all to yourselves.
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Post by fumobici on Apr 20, 2020 15:00:54 GMT
That abbey is formidable, what a treasure! The cloistered courtyard is especially charming to me, but it all is really. Thank you again, I hope I can travel again before too long.
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Post by bixaorellana on Apr 20, 2020 23:26:04 GMT
If you forgive a religious (but totally appropriate ) reference, I genuflect in your general direction! Thank you for falling in love with that abbey and really giving it its due. Those pictures in atmospheric old places are usually hard to manage, too. I have to admit I like the Kim En Joong windows much more than the modern windows preceding them. Well, except for that last modern one, just above your marmite comment -- that one is wonderful. And I absolutely adore the medieval ones from the basement. More power to you for staying out in the rain to show the garden, which is quite beautiful. I'm surprised you didn't drown taking that last picture. It was a treat to see Narbonne again, especially with the very different weather from when I got to see it. You really captured what a lovely town it is. You lucked out with that market, too. *envy* Not that I'm any kind of expert, but those look like African baskets, although the sign above them has been folded by the wind, so I can't tell for sure.
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Post by kerouac2 on Apr 21, 2020 3:33:24 GMT
When my parents lived in Béziers, Narbonne was the "rival" neighbour city especially for their rugby teams and their respective férias. Visually, you can barely tell the two cities apart. They are both lovely, but for anybody with limited time I would say that if you have visited one, you don't need to visit the other. In any case, you have depicted the city beautifully.
As for the abbey, it is stunning. I will never be able to thank the French authorities enough for kicking out the nuns and monks from these places and allowing them to become accessible to the public. However, those religious orders had quite a bit of usefulness in the dark ages when they were safe repositories of world knowledge in troubled times.
I approve of new experiments in stained glass even when they are controversial. It would be terrible if they just kept reproducing the same designs from 800 years ago.
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Post by lugg on Apr 21, 2020 7:16:18 GMT
Thanks again guys As for the canal, the Canal du Midi doesn't flow through or using any rivers. It was built to connect the Atlantic to the Mediterranean. Thanks bjd for the info re the Canal de Midi but those look like African baskets, although the sign above them has been folded by the wind, so I can't tell for sure. I am not sure either - I will have to see if any of my other pics show the sign in full I approve of new experiments in stained glass even when they are controversial. It would be terrible if they just kept reproducing the same designs from 800 years ago. So true and these are all quite lovely too. When my parents lived in Béziers, Narbonne was the "rival" neighbour city especially for their rugby teams and their respective férias. Visually, you can barely tell the two cities apart. They are both lovely, but for anybody with limited time I would say that if you have visited one, you don't need to visit the other. In any case, you have depicted the city beautifully. That's very interesting K2 I am just compiling a section on Beziers as we did visit it too .
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Post by lugg on Apr 21, 2020 7:24:17 GMT
I hope you are all not getting overload fatigue. So where to go next – maybe to the coast ? Gruissan is a small circular fishing village built around the remains of a castle chateau , of which only the tower remains. It is an easy drive from Narbonne about 20 mins approx. Over recent years it has expanded to incorporate tourism, with many holiday homes and two marinas. There are many festivals in the summer, music, kite surfing and I guess it can be a bustling place. Towards the end of October it was very quiet and pleasant. Even though it’s a small place there is plenty to keep you occupied for a day even if sitting on the huge beaches is not your thing or, the weather is poor? The village sits within the Parc naturel régional de la Narbonnaise en Méditerranée. Gruissan is largely surrounded by water, either by salt lagoons or the sea and the links to its fishing heritage are to be found everywhere. live.staticflickr.com/65535/49785361643_95b61162a0_b.jpgThis is not by image but gives an idea of the surroundings and its circular shape. live.staticflickr.com/65535/49797252781_0d9fa4495f_b.jpgWe stopped first close to the village centre, parking by the Grusissan etang live.staticflickr.com/65535/49785899686_07266478a0_b.jpglive.staticflickr.com/65535/49785366793_fec902257b_b.jpglive.staticflickr.com/65535/49785366373_dd7059912f_b.jpglive.staticflickr.com/65535/49786213217_ca92ed734e_b.jpglive.staticflickr.com/65535/49785433763_748ced20f6_b.jpglive.staticflickr.com/65535/49786211922_5921b86c58_b.jpglive.staticflickr.com/65535/49786211687_73f30a87cb_b.jpglive.staticflickr.com/65535/49785891191_17dc092183_b.jpgWe were excited to see this flamingo – I know that there are many in the area but this is the only one we spotted. live.staticflickr.com/65535/49786212382_e4e580fbbc_b.jpgA pretty little street library box, which links to some of the holiday homes I will show you later. live.staticflickr.com/65535/49786210187_d19e83062b_b.jpgSo heading into the village, we planned to wander around and then to climb up to the tower. The two images below may give a slight hint about the circular nature of the alleys and certainly blue was a common colour – quite fitting for a fishing village really. live.staticflickr.com/65535/49785903171_23ef1df8ab_b.jpglive.staticflickr.com/65535/49785901826_ba571c8e14_b.jpglive.staticflickr.com/65535/49786224267_60090d7b36_b.jpglive.staticflickr.com/65535/49786223937_99abb0bf4b_b.jpglive.staticflickr.com/65535/49785365758_18f708cdaa_b.jpglive.staticflickr.com/65535/49785364698_781cb871f2_b.jpglive.staticflickr.com/65535/49786223387_392e533a72_b.jpglive.staticflickr.com/65535/49785901601_5ce86d7a3d_b.jpgGetting closer finally – I think we took a very circuitous route, but no matter it was a lovely place to stroll around, mostly free of cars and people. live.staticflickr.com/65535/49785362783_cd5d9482ed_b.jpglive.staticflickr.com/65535/49786222042_4ea6028004_b.jpgThe Tour Barberousse, Redbeard tower is all that remains of the castle to observe the approaches to the harbour at Narbonne and to guard against seaborne invasions of the city. live.staticflickr.com/65535/49785901106_8414af5c34_b.jpglive.staticflickr.com/65535/49786221502_b88e9c397c_b.jpglive.staticflickr.com/65535/49785899956_c4e55f76d3_b.jpglive.staticflickr.com/65535/49785898341_a90df9f29a_b.jpglive.staticflickr.com/65535/49786218692_613c32a2c1_b.jpglive.staticflickr.com/65535/49785434078_7c6b6e8800_b.jpgThe tower itself is now just a ruin but the real reason to climb up to it is for the views, live.staticflickr.com/65535/49786219912_050e27612c_b.jpglive.staticflickr.com/65535/49785360653_b08b4a994d_b.jpglive.staticflickr.com/65535/49785897116_d66355ba12_b.jpg….looking beyond the salt flats to the sea live.staticflickr.com/65535/49785358598_227f787ccc_b.jpglive.staticflickr.com/65535/49786218152_13c69124a0_b.jpglive.staticflickr.com/65535/49785896486_c231ecc830_b.jpgOn the way back down to the car we called into the village church, Notre-Dame-de-l'Assomption. It probably dates back to the 13th century and was originally a fortified church but has had some later additions and extensions. The maritime links are evident within the church. live.staticflickr.com/65535/49786219257_9c332b5bf4_b.jpgIt looks quite austere from the outside, so the inside is quite a surprise, live.staticflickr.com/65535/49786217032_a048659305_b.jpglive.staticflickr.com/65535/49785357523_84e1ae0d3f_b.jpglive.staticflickr.com/65535/49785357298_6e9fbab508_b.jpglive.staticflickr.com/65535/49785893576_653e54218a_b.jpglive.staticflickr.com/65535/49785894191_ba15614774_b.jpglive.staticflickr.com/65535/49785893406_a42670b7a7_b.jpglive.staticflickr.com/65535/49785892841_53fcc7a6a2_b.jpgThere is another probably fascinating church in Gruisssan which unfortunately was closed on the day we were in the area– perhaps another time? … Notre Dame Des Auzils, atop the Massif de la Clape. Walk a path, with cenotaphs - memorials to sailors lost at sea, gradually climbing the hillside, past an herb garden, a hermits cave, to the chapel. Here there is a lovely view of the coast line, as well on entering the chapel you will find an interesting collection of paintings, ships models, memorials to the turbulence and solitude of the sea. So next we headed down to the beach area for some lunch and a wander along the sea front. live.staticflickr.com/65535/49786213792_a89d53b89b_b.jpglive.staticflickr.com/65535/49785891801_539fe0cedb_b.jpgLunch first and what could be better than mussels, crusty bread for the sauce and a glass of wine… in France by the sea? the beach is perhaps not the prettiest but it has a great expanse perfect for walking, family activities and will absorb any crowds in Summer well I suspect. live.staticflickr.com/65535/49797500271_40799bca82_b.jpglive.staticflickr.com/65535/49785886331_04dc55d193_b.jpglive.staticflickr.com/65535/49785886106_0202c03e87_b.jpglive.staticflickr.com/65535/49785886331_04dc55d193_b.jpgGruissan plage is quite famous for its chalets built on stilts. The chalets were first built in 1860s, the time of the first sea bathing and the beginning of seaside tourism in Gruissan. Built of wood by the people from the Narbonne area, these holiday residences were occupied only during the summer after which the families would go home to work on the grape harvest. Eventually, to avoid water damage during storms the chalets were built on stilts. If you have seen the 1986 French film “ Betty Blue “ or 37° 2 le matin , the area may look slightly familiar as it was partly shot here on location. live.staticflickr.com/65535/49785348058_5aee802965_b.jpglive.staticflickr.com/65535/49786205252_8fe1bc3345_b.jpgWe took a slight detour on our way home and drove through the streets for a closer look. Apparently there are 1300 of them approx. live.staticflickr.com/65535/49785884401_d468f0a6f4_b.jpglive.staticflickr.com/65535/49786205587_f268a2576d_b.jpgMore to come
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Post by onlyMark on Apr 21, 2020 7:42:22 GMT
"...but those look like African baskets..."
The ones on the market stalls? West African for sure, Senegal probably/possibly and as a wild card, maybe some from Rwanda done by the Tutsi. That's my guess.
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Post by bjd on Apr 21, 2020 8:41:11 GMT
Thanks for these nice memories, Lugg. We were in that area last May, went for a walk around Ile Ste Lucie (on your map). It was so windy that we could barely stand, as can happen in that area.
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Post by cheerypeabrain on Apr 21, 2020 13:42:50 GMT
Absolutely stunning, excellent photography skills too...a very beautiful place. Thank you dearie x
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Post by kerouac2 on Apr 22, 2020 6:15:29 GMT
Ever since I first saw 37°2 le matin, I have promised myself to go and see Gruissan for myself some day. But I still have not been there!
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Post by bixaorellana on Apr 22, 2020 15:03:56 GMT
Well, Gruisssan is certainly a fabulous addition to this thread which is already replete with treasure! You all must have been thrilled to find such a different place only 20 minutes away from Narbonne. It definitely inspired your excellent photographic eye. Love all the views -- towering cliff, endless beach, and the knockout vistas from the top of the tower. the area may look slightly familiar Ha ~ it sure does! When I dropped to the bottom of the thread so that I could scroll up to the new section, the pictures of the houses on stilts flashed by, making me think "Huh?" Those shots could be in any number of places in Louisiana, North Carolina, or other coastal areas in the US, so I was momentarily confused.
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Post by lugg on Apr 22, 2020 16:26:26 GMT
Thanks again guys - only another few sections to go so thanks for the indulgence. Thanks for the video K2 - I have seen Betty Blue - but a long time ago and the video helped me to recall it better.
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Post by lugg on Apr 22, 2020 16:27:11 GMT
Ok where next – why not to Beziers? Beziers has been mentioned a few times on AP. I think K2 and Mick have visited – in the past– apologies if I have missed any reports. But I did find this one of Tod’s which covers this town; report here; anyportinastorm.proboards.com/thread/7561/single-adventures-paris-2015We did not mean to go to Beziers and I cannot remember now quite how we ended up here. We were certainly heading for somewhere else – maybe we got lost, or looked at the views from the road and wanted to see it up close or maybe we just planned a quick stop off for coffee? Beziers probably does not really belong in this report, as it is not part of the Aude but is in the Herault a neighbouring department? No matter here it is. A few facts from Wiki – it is one of the oldest towns in France dating from 575 BC; it was a stronghold of the Cathars and in the crusade against them in the 13th century the population of Beziers; many of whom were Catholics, were massacred, the Day of Butchery .Probably its most famous inhabitant was Pierre- Paul Riquet who was the main force behind the construction of the Canal De Midi, part of which is very close to Beziers. K2 mentioned that Beziers and Narbonne are very similar. Yes I can see that. My impression was that Beziers is larger, maybe slightly grittier in parts and is much more impressive when viewed from a distance. live.staticflickr.com/65535/49786184047_a9bf2ba50c_b.jpglive.staticflickr.com/65535/49786186797_6308183be6_b.jpgAnyway we parked practically right in the city centre and one of the first things we saw as we ascended from the underground car park was the market hall; certainly that looked similar to Narbonne’s market hall but was a smaller version… live.staticflickr.com/65535/49785879321_d2a04f60dd_b.jpglive.staticflickr.com/65535/49785341528_bc6e84484f_b.jpgI think it was at this point we lost the plot; as we looked at all the cafes inside and decided to have lunch. Instead of moving on with our journey after lunch we needed a walk – you will see why. So bad …but so good. live.staticflickr.com/65535/49798828411_b71bc02d99_b.jpglive.staticflickr.com/65535/49786201792_5c6e3d85c3_b.jpglive.staticflickr.com/65535/49785879811_b9577e5a2e_b.jpgSo just a few images from Beziers town centre; Yes it was raining yet again, live.staticflickr.com/65535/49785330983_65d18e35b6_b.jpgSome of the streets and buildings were grand, live.staticflickr.com/65535/49785871021_3fa108f647_b.jpglive.staticflickr.com/65535/49786191477_ebb4ac0a63_b.jpglive.staticflickr.com/65535/49785872421_8975336286_b.jpglive.staticflickr.com/65535/49785872946_fe09677ffa_b.jpglive.staticflickr.com/65535/49786193002_f3ffe9838b_b.jpglive.staticflickr.com/65535/49786194467_2c4d65c419_b.jpglive.staticflickr.com/65535/49786198887_ceaa3d1540_b.jpglive.staticflickr.com/65535/49785333418_dd9465fd77_b.jpglive.staticflickr.com/65535/49785330283_4847701021_b.jpgOthers less so but charming none the less in the main, although this is the only place I have ever felt slightly uncomfortable in , in this part of France – I think we may have wandered along an alley where some sort of deal was being done. Anyway no harm came and it might have been over fertile imagination. live.staticflickr.com/65535/49785330563_b62abed0ba_b.jpglive.staticflickr.com/65535/49785868856_46eacc1ec3_b.jpglive.staticflickr.com/65535/49785340698_035641052f_b.jpglive.staticflickr.com/65535/49786197152_30048f9f28_b.jpgWe walked to the top of the hill that Beziers is built on with a plan to visit the cathedral – unfortunately it was closed but the views were good despite the rain. live.staticflickr.com/65535/49785341258_b0df8b4fb1_b.jpglive.staticflickr.com/65535/49786196042_3554cf5813_b.jpg There was some great street art that looked almost 3d At first I thought there were people on the balconies to the left of this image live.staticflickr.com/65535/49785878026_7c38f3dfd4_b.jpglive.staticflickr.com/65535/49785339278_87d4af8e38_b.jpglive.staticflickr.com/65535/49786198082_247f189011_b.jpglive.staticflickr.com/65535/49786197747_7e2ca6b356_b.jpglive.staticflickr.com/65535/49785338418_c6e31b80bb_b.jpgHard to believe this was drawn on the pavement live.staticflickr.com/65535/49785334308_e691d62ae7_b.jpgHeading back to Narbonne there were some good views of Beziers from the road. live.staticflickr.com/65535/49785866136_dcb1752753_b.jpgFollowing in Tod’s footsteps we stopped at Fonserannes Locks on the Canal Du Midi which are just outside Beziers. I was standing on the tow path when I took the pic below live.staticflickr.com/65535/49785325503_0edfe4d985_b.jpglive.staticflickr.com/65535/49785327558_1e325c0e79_b.jpglive.staticflickr.com/65535/49786186067_3892883dba_b.jpgI had no idea that the plane trees are so threatened, live.staticflickr.com/65535/49785864321_82dac04af2_b.jpglive.staticflickr.com/65535/49786175417_d9d0514f31_b.jpgAnyway a little of the staircase of locks, a UNESCO World Heritage site. It did not seem to be very busy with boats but I guess in the height of the season there will be long tailbacks. You may see that the lock basins themselves are oval shaped which apparently is quite unusual on canals apart from the Midi ?? live.staticflickr.com/65535/49786181677_c48f9e5039_b.jpglive.staticflickr.com/65535/49785860086_fc1e34d8a0_b.jpglive.staticflickr.com/65535/49786180602_5e53a1b90c_b.jpglive.staticflickr.com/65535/49785320208_4475b1084f_b.jpglive.staticflickr.com/65535/49785320023_c943afedd0_b.jpgLooking up the hill at the staircase system of locks (a height of 21.5 metres (71 ft) over a distance of 300 metres (980 ft) ) live.staticflickr.com/65535/49786177532_3395303f74_b.jpglive.staticflickr.com/65535/49786177837_8c46a50209_b.jpgFrom slow trickle to powerful gush.. live.staticflickr.com/65535/49785859786_91b44ca328_b.jpglive.staticflickr.com/65535/49786176687_bb7743228a_b.jpglive.staticflickr.com/65535/49785316463_a9186d8ab3_b.jpgAnd onwards with their journey live.staticflickr.com/65535/49786174142_6d770478da_b.jpgMore to come – I can imagine the groans …sorry .
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Post by kerouac2 on Apr 22, 2020 17:28:05 GMT
Canal locks have always totally fascinated me.
The view of the cathedral of Béziers on top of its hill as you drive by is probably one of the nicest views in that part of France. Also, there is an older road parallel to the main one that still uses a bridge built by the Romans.
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Post by lugg on Apr 30, 2020 18:50:55 GMT
The view of the cathedral of Béziers on top of its hill as you drive by is probably one of the nicest views in that part of France - yes so impressive nearly as much as Carcassonne from afar.
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