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Post by amboseli on Aug 24, 2017 19:36:49 GMT
Last week we went cycling in the Loire Valley, combining châteaux and vineyards (and good food and wine, of course). Husband loaded our bikes on the car and off we were ... in torrential rains for the first 400 kms and blue skies with fluffy white clouds for the remaining 200 kms. We stayed in Amboise and our aim was to cycle some stretches of the 800 km long 'La Loire à Vélo' trail, featured on the UNESCO World Heritage List as a 'living cultural landscape'. We visited four castles and their parks - out of 80!! - and saw some only from the outside. Cycling trips were between 40 and 50 kms, often a lot of uphill (and, thank god, downhill), so it was impossible to visit more than one castle a day. Oh well, so be it. At an average of 13 euros entrance fee per person per castle, we really had no intention to visit all 80 of them. Of course I have an overload of pictures to share. They're not the best quality 'cause all of them are taken with my phone. Here goes ... Clos Lucé, Leonardo da Vinci's residence in Amboise   Amboise, the castle and the town       On the road ...          ... approaching Château de Chambord               Blois, and Château de Blois --> I have resized the pics for easier viewing on smaller screens            |
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Post by bixaorellana on Aug 25, 2017 0:24:00 GMT
Oh, Amboseli ~ this is truly a tour of fairyland. You got so many wonderful pictures, both of the imposing buildings and the loveliness of the countryside. I love that picture of your husband paused on the road, with the perfect bicycle shadow on the ground; also the path beckoning beyond the handlebars and the avenue of trees in the wood.
But the Château de Chambord -- !!! Now I see why it is the image of French royal splendor. The landscaping is surely the most perfect example of classic formality of that era in France, really a knock-out.
That's not to say that the Château de Blois in its beautiful setting is not also hugely impressive. And your picture of the house just barely seen through the willow branches is just lovely.
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Post by kerouac2 on Aug 25, 2017 6:38:00 GMT
Excellent report, amboseli, and you have allowed me to see something that I have not seen for myself yet. While Chambord is the biggest château in the Loire valley, it used to be completely empty. It has only been in recent years (since 2014) that they finally decided to put period furniture back into some of the rooms. It definitely looks more interesting now.
Of course the emptiness of the château was very useful during WW2, because Chambord was the principal storage place for not only the artworks from the Louvre but also most of the museums of France. They already started emptying the Louvre in 1938 in anticipation. However, the storage at Chambord was mostly secret, because the museums faked their inventories and shipping lists so that nobody could find specific artworks. The Mona Lisa spent some time at Chambord, but the painting was moved 10 times during the war to make sure that nobody could grab it.
In any case, Chambord was an excellent depository due to its total isolation in the middle of the forest and the impossibility of mistaking it for a military target.
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Post by amboseli on Aug 25, 2017 7:11:47 GMT
kerouac2Yes, Chambord is furnished AND it is used for exhibitions. There is a very interesting exhibition of expressionist/modernist art right now. I'll post the pictures after we come back from the beach. bixaorellanaWhile the gardens in Chambord were nice, the ones in Azay-le-Rideau and Ussé were much more impressive, all trimmed and in various themes. Pictures to follow later today. Still a lot to come ...
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Post by amboseli on Aug 25, 2017 18:53:45 GMT
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Post by amboseli on Aug 25, 2017 19:16:20 GMT
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Post by amboseli on Aug 25, 2017 19:35:54 GMT
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Post by mich64 on Aug 25, 2017 20:09:05 GMT
Well done Amboseli! I always enjoy when kitchen photographs are included, even if they may not be the exact period pieces, (not that I would know the difference) I am always fascinated.
We have been watching a series called Escape to the Chateau about a British couple who bought a Chateau in France (Brittany region I think?) and have been restoring it room by room with the intent of hosting weddings and B&B event weekends. They have chosen some design choices that I have found odd, but they seem to be enjoying it!
It looks like you had wonderful weather to be cycling and exploring.
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Post by amboseli on Aug 25, 2017 21:56:22 GMT
Thank you mich64.
Yes, we have been very lucky with the weather.
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Post by kerouac2 on Aug 26, 2017 5:48:40 GMT
This has been an excellent overview of the châteaux de la Loire, and you have pretty much convinced me that it is time to return. I have never visited some of these places and have not been to some of the other ones for at least 30 years. My grandmother spent two summers in a small town a little beyond Chartres, so I was able to take her on some day trips. Azay-le-Rideau is definitely in one of the most beautiful settings, and you were lucky to see it very recently, because they have just completed about five or six years of renovation there. You can pretty much see that from your photos because the place looks brand new now.
Having always been in the Loire valley by car, I confess that most trips were just from château to château, ignoring the small villages, which is obviously a shame. One of these days I'll get it right.
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Post by amboseli on Aug 26, 2017 6:19:00 GMT
Thank you, kerouac.
Just as you, we have been in this area some 30 years ago. I must say, I didn't remember much but at the time my interests were different.
I'm so glad we made this trip. It was really worth the 600 km long drive.
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Post by mossie on Aug 26, 2017 7:53:54 GMT
I had a coach trip to that area about 25 years ago, staying in the Novotel at Amboise, so thanks very much for reminding me what beautiful chateaux there are there. I particularly remember Chenonceau, and also Chinon and Tours.
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Post by breeze on Aug 26, 2017 9:16:04 GMT
Amboseli, your pictures are delightful. And so clear--you can almost count the bricks in the top photo.
Azay is my favorite too. It's small enough that I can take it all in. My husband preferred Chenonceau, but the last time we went near it, we walked on the other side of the river and admired what we could see (mostly the part over the river) for free.
How was your experience biking along the Loire? Looks like you had excellent weather for it.
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Post by breeze on Aug 26, 2017 9:16:55 GMT
Also, happy birthday!
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Post by kerouac2 on Aug 26, 2017 9:48:46 GMT
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Post by bixaorellana on Aug 26, 2017 17:26:00 GMT
*standing ovation* What a report, Amboseli, and what a birthday celebration! I see now why you told me to stand back & wait to be really dazzled by the gardens. I've gone through the report twice now, and am bowled over. Truly, I did not know there were such large and perfect examples of "French formal" in existence. They are really gorgeous complements to the châteaux. Which did you most enjoy seeing -- the exteriors or the interiors? I'm sure after all that cycling, you must have very much appreciated the shady interiors of various cafés and bars, at least. That was quite a trip. Your garden and flower photographs are sheerest delight, really really beautiful. Thank you for this wonderful report & a very happy birthday to you.  |
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Post by amboseli on Aug 26, 2017 20:20:35 GMT
Thanks for the birthday wishes and the kind words, everyone. breezeCycling was not exactly as expected. 'La Loire à vélo' made us think that the trail would follow the Loire, flat and easy cyclable. This was not the case! Of course many châteaux are not quite near the river and the bikepaths (that had to be shared with cars) were pretty hilly. But it was fun anyway, and the weather was excellent indeed. kerouac2Chevery is missing, correct. With only 4,5 days one has to make choices. bixaorellanaI most enjoyed seeing the exteriors. The interiors are pretty much the same in every castle. And I truly enjoyed the gardens and parks. |
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Post by mich64 on Aug 26, 2017 23:25:53 GMT
Happy Birthday Amboseli! Hope you had a wonderful day.
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Post by amboseli on Aug 27, 2017 7:53:39 GMT
Thank you, Mich.
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Post by whatagain on Aug 27, 2017 10:49:52 GMT
Great report, great pics and happy birthday.
I had forgotten we had loved Langeais so much - your report reminded me of that visit, thanks.
ps : you cycle without a helmet ? tss.
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Post by fumobici on Aug 29, 2017 1:23:25 GMT
Lovely report, thank you.
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Post by mossie on Aug 30, 2017 18:39:36 GMT
I agree, I have really enjoyed this trip round the Loire chateaux, and the Tintin connection was an extra treat.
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