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Post by bixaorellana on Oct 29, 2017 5:26:16 GMT
And so it begins for another year ~
The inauguration of the festivities of the dead was this afternoon and a grand inauguration it was. But before that happened, the dogs and I went for a walk to catch some of the spirit without all the madness.
Let's start big, with the giant alebrije outside the organic market on Alcalá ~
We'll just wait over here, where it's not so scary ~
Continuing south on Alcalá, we pass through a pavilion of folkcraft from all over the country ~
From one of the rug weaving villages near Oaxaca -- I've never seen Death used as a rug theme before ~
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Post by bixaorellana on Oct 29, 2017 5:49:10 GMT
Once out of the pavilion, we continue on down the pedestrian street.
I've known this vendor for many years, but today he didn't greet me for obvious reasons ~
Catrinas here, there, and everywhere ~
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Post by bixaorellana on Oct 29, 2017 6:09:52 GMT
Happy to see the gorgeous wickerwork Catrina who greets visitors to Amate Books at this time every year ~
The kindly waiters at La Hostería de Alcalá saw me peering past the Amate Catrina to their elegant lady and beckoned me in so my dogs could meet her dog ~
Making a turn to start home, I see this shop consortium has brought out their yearly version of a giant lady ~
Understated morbid elegance at a hotel ~
~~ Tune in tomorrow for the big parade ~~
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Post by kerouac2 on Oct 29, 2017 6:46:24 GMT
This brings back fond memories of last year when I was able to see it all for myself.
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Post by lugg on Oct 29, 2017 8:12:19 GMT
Hoorah i really enjoy this annual report looking forward to more
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Post by breeze on Oct 29, 2017 12:32:46 GMT
Bixa, a lot of these seem to be made of papier mache. Is that true of the giant alebrije in #1? It's quite the wonder.
Your dogs seem cautious with fake dogs their size but don't quail at the skeletons? Did they get a whiff of glue when they checked out the calf's butt the other day? Which would of course then go in their encyclopedia of smells and confuse them when they encountered a real calf.
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Post by bixaorellana on Oct 29, 2017 21:26:36 GMT
Ahhh ~ you all are so kind and encouraging. Thanks! Lugg, you will see more, much more than you can imagine. The plan this year is to get out of the city into surrounding communities. Breeze, yes -- lots of papier mache, including that huge alebrije. I don't think the dogs smelled glue on the calf, since he is made of sheet metal. It finally occurred to me that the butt sniffing might have been because dogs who previously passed had lifted their legs on the poor calf. But strangely, none of mine did that. Maybe he is an enchanted calf, a la the Tin Woodman. Kerouac, the next thing I'm showing is some place you'll recognize, but I'm including some orientation pics for others. And now we'll see how that area looked yesterday afternoon when it was converged upon by well over a dozen different groups from municipalities, barrios, and artistic collectives, plus hundreds of onlookers.
This "Magna Comparsa" is the first time all of them have been seen together, and is the official inauguration of las Festividades de Muertos 2017.The quick helping the dead ~
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Post by bixaorellana on Oct 29, 2017 22:15:53 GMT
Okay, enough of the sweetness and light.
I've pushed further into the crowd and am rewarded by seeing the famous devils of San Agustín, Etla in their heavy jingle bell costumes ~
But even further in are the wonderful rowdy horned demons of Santa María Coyotepec, dancing up a storm ~
Did anyone notice the other excitement snaking up the side, just seen over the heads of the devils?
Stilt walkers!
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Post by bixaorellana on Oct 30, 2017 4:18:36 GMT
Tardy stilt walkers stalk in ~
The neophyte San Augustín demons shimmy and jingle ~
The San Martín devils whoop and holler ~
A band gives its all ~
And the violent bear it away ~
At this point, I decide to work my way down to the bottom end of the plaza, where it's relatively tranquil ~
I cut through the perpendicular part of the plaza then double back up to where we started. It's pretty interesting here, too!
Miraculously, my friend finds me, but since we were both quickly distracted by picture opportunities, we lost each other again.
Something out of Bosch, but adorable nonetheless ~
Even with all the activity, some people are getting impatient for the parade to start ~
These neighbors on the aqueduct are into both Halloween and Day of the Dead ~
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Post by kerouac2 on Oct 30, 2017 6:09:45 GMT
Amazing how the festivities manage to renew themselves every year when you'd think it would just be the same stuff over and over again.
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Post by mickthecactus on Oct 30, 2017 8:39:40 GMT
Great report. Thanks!
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Post by tod2 on Oct 30, 2017 10:48:10 GMT
Lovely to see once more and all so different. I peered into the crowds and saw the Devil making a pact with the Grim Reaper I hope there is more!
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Post by bixaorellana on Oct 30, 2017 15:28:29 GMT
I know what you mean about the fear of it being the same, Kerouac, particularly since a) this is my 20th Muertos and b) in terms of photo-ops. But the great thing is that there is so much going on that it's possible to find something new every year. Thank you, Mick! This report is a very long way from being finished, though. What I'm showing so far is the inauguration parade -- a parade that thus far in the report has not started. That was on the 28th. Yesterday I went out and took a few pictures and I'll probably come across something today. Then it's the big guns of the 31st and 1st. Tod, thanks for looking so closely! The great thing about photographs is that they pick up stuff that the actual eye and brain miss when looking at the scene live. Please bear with me, folks. Even as I type I'm uploading pictures to Flickr and also one of my bad videos to youtube. Lots more to see!
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Post by cheerypeabrain on Oct 30, 2017 17:35:58 GMT
OOooOoH faaaaaaabulous... I really must make an alebrije because it looks such fun! The dogs look great and very relaxed..and I love the Mexican Morris men equivalents (have you come across Morris men in your travels?) Spectacular and fascinating Bixa dear.x
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Post by bixaorellana on Oct 30, 2017 21:20:56 GMT
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Post by bixaorellana on Oct 30, 2017 21:36:05 GMT
I wriggle my way back to the front again, where it appears the different factions are grouping themselves together.
Here are the excellent wooden masks and inspired loony devilry of San Martín Tilcajete ~
In front of the San Martín contingent are the serious demons from San Agustín Etla ~
And glory be -- the milling mass in the main part of the plaza is moving forward ~
The band strikes up ~
And we're on the move~
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Post by bixaorellana on Oct 30, 2017 21:57:15 GMT
It would appear that in fact not everyone loves a parade ~
After taking the picture above I set out to get to the other side of the street, briefly becoming part of the parade.
Mission accomplished, I perched myself on the raised sidewalk for a better view ~
I had to hold the camera over the crowd to get these pictures and have no idea who this intriguing group is ~
"Please let it end. I am soooo over this."
Whoop whoop whoooop!
I manage to work my way back down to street level and finally get a clear shot of the crazed denizens of Ex-Marquesado ~
Let's see it all in action. Full screen and highest definition, please ~
Whew! That dense crowd stretches the whole length of the parade route ~
But I'm heading up the street behind this mother-daughter ghost bride duo and on to home ~
Tonzolas more of days of the dead yet to come!
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Post by kerouac2 on Oct 30, 2017 22:11:31 GMT
I find these festivities totally incredible even though I saw similar events last year. I completely urge anybody interested to think about a visit next year.
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Post by bixaorellana on Oct 31, 2017 3:04:55 GMT
Too true, Kerouac ~ this is never not worth seeing! On my very first two Muertos I got to see the demons of San Agustín up close on their home turf. Now it's my twentieth Muertos and seeing them was still a thrill. Well, I am trying to keep this report more or less in sync with real time, so will now show pictures from yesterday and today. Nothing much really cranks up until tomorrow, so you're getting low-key photos to rest your eyes from all that color and rowdiness.
Yesterday afternoon, October 29, was the inauguration of the sand paintings at the Plaza de la Danza. When I got there, I was shocked that there were no giant ones as in years past, just the smaller "sheetcake" variety, in pretty much the same designs I saw year after year in Xoxocotlán.
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Post by bixaorellana on Oct 31, 2017 3:18:49 GMT
Photo-ops were thin on the ground today, Monday, October 30.
The corner of García Vigil, Independencia, and the Alameda (area in front of the cathedral) ~
Hmmm. I thought they'd be way further along with this giant altar on the side of the cathedral ~
A really gorgeous example of the famous Oaxacan tinwork ~
Moving on down Independencia, I come to the area in front of La Soledad church -- the lower level from where I was yesterday.
The ice cream stands have dressed themselves all up to celebrate Muertos ~
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Post by kerouac2 on Oct 31, 2017 5:36:13 GMT
What is the afternoon temperature of Oaxaca at the moment? When I see some of the participants wearing mostly body paint, it makes me shiver when I think of the temperature in Paris at the moment.
Mango c/chile? That looks interesting. Tuna always makes me laugh, even though I know it doesn't mean that.
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Post by tod2 on Oct 31, 2017 7:57:10 GMT
Your latest photos have not yet appeared but I thought the stilt-walker in the turquoise blue cape was the best of the lot. He must have put hours and hours of work into the costume, shield and attack weapon. The group dressed in thousands of "Christmas bells" must be something to be heard. I'm sure they are the same bells I get via China and at the moment are selling dozens for the holiday season. I love the photo of the young boy looking up at your camera - I think he is urgently trying to attract the attention of his dad? next to him by gripping his arm and I think is tapping him on the back.
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Post by tod2 on Oct 31, 2017 8:09:11 GMT
Aah! photos appearing now - Great shot of the old man head rested on hand and looking every bit bored to tears Those marigolds must be cultivated by the million at a precise time to get so many ready for this occasion. How bright and colourful the ice cream stands are! Lots of effort by the owners. I saw my favourite 'pistache'... Aah, but Mezcal has caught my eye. Haven't had a tequila flavoured one ever.
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Post by mossie on Oct 31, 2017 9:12:42 GMT
A wonderfully awful colourful happy parade. Many thanks for brightening up a dull day.
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Post by bixaorellana on Oct 31, 2017 15:53:00 GMT
Kerouac, the high temp on the 28th was 75F/24C, so probably the paint was enough to keep those guys warm. Oddly, the flavor of mango disappears easily when made into anything else, so the chile would be a good addition. It's extremely common here to sprinkle a chile-lime-salt mixture of varying degrees of hotness onto fresh fruit -- an addictive addition!
Tod, thanks so much for your kind comments. I agree -- that costume is magnificent. I don't know where those stilt walkers are from. In terms of movement and dancing, they don't have nearly the panache of the fabulous young men from Zaachila.
And yes, the bell devils are just mind blowing. I used to live up in the hills around San Agustín, and after rolling home late from the wild DofD street party, I could hear them still at it until dawn. None of the people in my pictures are wearing the traditional capes, which are covered with mirrors and add to the huge weight of the costume. This youtube video (not mine) gives an idea of sound of those devils. The young man at :50 is saying, "I've been masking as a devil from the time I was little and always dreamed of being a traditional devil with the heavy costume of 40 kilos. Every year I refine my devil look." The older man says, "I began as a devil when I was eight. There were 20 or 25 of us in the masking group. Now there are 150, 200. The custom has been preserved here over many years."
The little guy is showing me the Virgin of Guadalupe on the back of the devil's cape. He saw me trying to get a picture when I was pushed aside by an oaf with a giant camera. (My picture-taking pal and I noted that men with monster cameras seem overly entitled. That particular jerk had a lens like a leaf blower and something sticking off the top that resembled the bag of a hand-vac.) Anyway, I let Bluto snap off some pics then said, "Hey -- it's my turn." He moved and the sweet little boy's help wound up making for a much better shot.
I'm hoping to get some marigold field shots today, as I'm venturing into the countryside. You're right that they are cultivated all over the country in preparation for this festival. When you come visit, I will buy you all the mezcal ice cream you can eat!
Thanks so much, Mossie! You know I dream of living in England, but it's the English themselves who are so discouraging about the winter darkness.
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Post by Deleted on Oct 31, 2017 17:14:13 GMT
Amazing how the festivities manage to renew themselves every year when you'd think it would just be the same stuff over and over again. My sentiments exactly. Just as I thought I had seen it all and having been there in 1995 and poured over subsequent reports here comes/is a all together different, brilliant, mind boggling report on the same theme and different variation. How I/we would love to be there and I have promised T. that we will go soon soon but, not soon enough. Looking forward to seeing more. (You know, I have a whole set of predominately B&W 35mm photos that I took when I was there. They are somewhere in this house... Many were taken in the city but there is a slew of ones I took when we went out in the country and a whole different departure of sorts from the "standard" , (I don't want to say stereotypical, variations of the various ceremonial festivities.) I do recall someone handing me a plastic water bottle that I assumed contained water and went to take a huge slug of and it was pure homemade Mezcal... )
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Post by kerouac2 on Oct 31, 2017 17:17:24 GMT
So, do you have a scanner for the photos?
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Post by Deleted on Oct 31, 2017 17:32:21 GMT
So, do you have a scanner for the photos? Well, first off, I'm not even sure where they are. A very sore subject that has to do with taking in a friend and his son to live here, gave him 2 rooms to live in and full use of the common areas, kitchen etc. He, without my permission, totally rearranged, moved, discarded, all manner of "things' we have yet to find. I trust he didn't toss these but, I have no clue as to where they are along with many, many other things.) And, no, I do not have a scanner and don't know the first thing about it. Let's just say, it's "on the list")
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Post by lugg on Oct 31, 2017 19:02:30 GMT
Wonderful as ever Bixa - not only is the topic so entertaining but the quality of your photos - wow. The videos really helped me to understand how many people are viewing, I have to say the spinning Catherine wheel contraption fills me with horror from a health and safety point of view . I am not sure that I would want to be close to that . Yes K2 I do so want to go and see it for myself ...one day . I think my fave photo is the one with Amate Catrina standing in the foreground with the elegant lady behind - that model looks so lifelike (as in someone in costume)and love the pics of your dogs meeting hers looking forward to seeing your marigold field photos.
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Post by bixaorellana on Nov 1, 2017 16:55:45 GMT
How I/we would love to be there and I have promised T. that we will go soon soon but, not soon enough. Looking forward to seeing more. (You know, I have a whole set of predominately B&W 35mm photos that I took when I was there. Ahem, ahem, Casimira ~ time passes! You were here in '97, 20 years ago. As for those photos, I know for a fact that some of them are of the San Agustín devils. .. the spinning Catherine wheel contraption fills me with horror from a health and safety point of view ... I do so want to go and see it for myself ...one day . Ahh, Lugg ~ your "wow" over my photos means the world to me -- thank you! I had to laugh over your health and safety comment. After you're here a while, you become quite blasé about the lack of regard for those little concerns. The attitude seems to be: "you knew going in that life is dangerous, so enter at your own risk". As for seeing it for yourself "one day" ~ every year when I do the DofD report, everyone says how much they'd like to see it. Someone needs to take the bull by the horns & just decide to come and/OR organize everyone into planning a big get-together here.
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