Zanzibar

[onlyMark]

Zanzibar conjures up in my mind a feeling of it being a strange place where things happen, somewhat like the feeling you get when hearing of Timbuktu.
I was in Zanzibar a couple of times in the late 90's and had vowed to return for a better look as then I'd only managed to catch a day or two. As it turns out it wasn't a difficult journey from where I am now, though it did entail a change of planes in Nairobi. For those of a non-geographic bent, it's here -




The island is about 40km off the coast of Tanzania and roughly 90km by 40km in size.
The Zanzibar Archipelago consists of several islands but we'll be concerned with the main island of Zanzibar (known locally as Unguja) itself.
I visited three places, the main city which has a section called Stone Town that is of interest, and two coastal villages called Bwejuu and Kiwengwa –




Stone Town, the tip of the capital, is a World Heritage Site and the place of the shortest war in history –

[onlyMark]

Flying from Lusaka anywhere is a bit problematic, partly because there are few airlines going there, but mainly because not far away relatively is the capital of Zimbabwe, Harare. This causes a problem because all the airlines will stop there as well, but not on every inward or outward journey. Consider Kenya Airways who fly from Nairobi. One flight will be from Nairobi to Harare and then to Lusaka. Then return direct to Nairobi. Another flight will go direct to Lusaka but return via Harare. Add the major cities in Malawi, namely Lilongwe and Blantyre, into the mix and picking the shortest flight out or into Lusaka to/from Nairobi is a bit of an exercise in timetabling. Each time there will be a stop off in one of the cities for an hour where you don't disembark, but the diversion adds considerable time. Only though if that isn't your actual destination, but nevertheless, a flight of about 2 ½ hours will double due to it.

This meant on the day we went, a day that was fixed as we had no flexibility, we didn't arrive in Zanzibar until midnight or so. What didn't help was a delay on the Nairobi – Zanzibar leg with an airline called Precision Air. They don't fly too far usually and are based in the capital of Tanzania, Dar Es Salaam. They use turbo prop planes, which nowadays seem to be quite rare.
Knowing we would be arriving late I had booked seats near the front (row 2) for us so we could make a quick exit. What I didn't know is that boarding on these planes is from the rear only. Thus we ended up being last off.
Add that to poor Immigration handling skills, forms to fill out and interlocking and intersecting queues, and we were happy to eventually get to our hotel in Stone Town.

That is a bit daunting as well late at night if you are not aware of the layout of Stone Town – i.e. alleyways too small for cars. This meant for the majority of hotels the taxi parked on the outskirts and in pitch black you were led through a maze of paths between houses wondering if you were going to be robbed.
This doesn't happen though, just to mention.

Getting off the plane the humidity struck us like a wet towel and the area around the hotel was even worse due to being sheltered by the streets from any cool sea breezes. The temperature throughout our stay hovered just above or below 30C but felt quite hotter. Fortunately we had aircon which was a blessing for sleeping with. I had specified this in conversations regarding planning with Mrs M as I knew it was necessary at this time of year.

The next morning we had a good breakfast of fruit (water melon, papaya, mango, pineapple, passion fruit (maracuyá) and banana) with croissants, toast and eggs done to your liking (N.B. "fried one side" is the equivalent of sunny side up), fresh squeezed fruit juice (mixed or pineapple) and tea/coffee.
Just to mention, this was a standard breakfast wherever we stayed at.
Mrs M asked at the hotel if they had a map. I said it wasn't required by us because we were on holiday anyway, no rush to be anywhere, and we would never get lost. Just slightly out of place at random times.

[onlyMark]

Over the next few days we followed our noses around Stone Town, retracing our steps and finding new places, exploring little alleys and finding hidden cafes. I took many photos. In fact so many it could be classed as many, many photos plus a lot of them as well. I don't think there are any duplications in this post but also I didn't take my big good camera as we'd be spending time on beaches as well and I didn't want to ruin it, so I had a point and shoot which is sufficient to get the idea but not of such a good quality. Plus, I think I forgot to clean the lens. So I've culled a selection of them to put up here.

We'll start for a minute and then I'll blather on at times to break up a long string of them.
















Please excuse my slight obsession with doorways. I find them fascinating as I always imagine what is just the other side –

[onlyMark]

Continuing on, it is rare to get a photo without some tourists in it –

[onlyMark]

The language used most in the area is Swahili (Kiswahili) which in juxtaposition to the complex history of the island, is supposedly one of the easiest to learn. It derived from a Bantu language, which encompassed a vast area of Eastern Africa, and has had over the centuries included many loan words, especially from Arabic, but also a few others like Persian and some Indian languages. The history here I'll touch on a little in a while though.
There are also a number of dialects which cause difficulty but funnily enough, the Zanzibar Town dialect is considered to be the standard.
My father was fluent in it, my mother less so but still at a conversational level and I've heard it spoken for many years over time, but unfortunately I can still only grasp a few phrases. Nevertheless, my usage did cause some raised eyebrows during out stay and I was quite often asked if I spoke it.
As the island is predominately Muslim, I did also get chance to utter a few greetings in Arabic from time to time, which also came as a surprise. It is a little failing of mine that I delight in going against the preconceptions of being a fat, old, red-faced English tourist and who also can use a standard African handshake.

Mooching around further -

[kerouac2]

Looks good so far and definitely matches photos that I had previously seen of Stone Town -- "renovated" and "awaiting renovation".

[bjd]

This is great, Mark, along with your explanations. Zanzibar is indeed one of those places that sound impossibly romantic and wonderful.

I am mentally comparing your photos with Lamu, where I spent a week in December 2003. Stone Town looks both fancier (the hotel in your pic) and more rundown at the same time. I also took lots of pictures of doors!

Looking forward to more.

[onlyMark]

K2, there is also the category of "no chance in hell to be renovated".
bjd, I've also been to Lamu and there is really very little difference. It is just on a smaller scale for sure. Both were subject to about the same history regarding being an Omani protectorate, both are predominately Muslim and both came under British rule, both have the same language and culture.
Question for you bjd as you've been there, tell me about Lamu beds. Did you know about them/notice them?

[amboseli]

Very interesting!
I've always wanted to visit Zanzibar, especially its beaches. My dream is do so in combination with a safari in Tanzania.

BTW, we had a Lamu bed during our stay in Diani Beach (Kenya), a beautifully carved 4-posted bed.

[onlyMark]

It'll still be there if ever you can go.

[bjd]

re Lamu beds. I just looked it up. Those carved beds don't look like anything I saw but then again, we didn't stay in a fancy hotel on Shela Beach. We stayed at the Pole Pole Guest House in town. It now has a webpage but at the time didn't have much of anything other than a roof with a railing where we sat at night and ate mangoes. It was one of the highest buildings in Lamu.

As I recall, the beds were just dorm style metal beds with mosquito nets, even in the private rooms.

[amboseli]

Jan 4, 2018 10:43:48 GMT onlyMark said:

It'll still be there if ever you can go.

I know, but my husband doesn't want to go. He thinks it will spoil the memory of our first safari (unless it's a better one) - still our best vacation ever.

[onlyMark]

Then don't go on safari.
After Zanzibar, climb Kilimanjaro instead.
However, I'd recommend going to Arusha as a base and head out to Lake Manyara National Park, Olduvai Gorge and Ngorogoro Crater national Park. Nearly certain of seeing the big five and looking into the history of man. They are all on the same road and hence easy to travel between/to.
Then if you are a glutton for punishment, carry on along the same road into the Serengeti.

[bixaorellana]

Oh, Mark! I'm racing through the forum at the moment as I need to be somewhere, but cannot wait to get back to this thread. The very name is synonymous with exoticism, but I know you'll be delving deeper. Thanks for this, and I'll be back to truly appreciate it.

[fumobici]

Fascinating! I've read the odd article about the islands, but this really fills in the blanks, thank you.

[onlyMark]

I'll try and fill more in later.

[questa]

Zanzibar...the name has entranced me since I was about 12. I read the stories and imagined going there.Then all the other travel happened, other exotic and romantic places, and Zanzibar got pushed to the back.

Last week I decided it was time to go there. What a coincidence! Did some research and when I finish this post I am off to see my travel agent with a view to travel in August/September.

It seems that the political closing of air space ban means long layovers...20 hours in Doha but Air Qatar might pay for the airport hotel for me. Flights from Oz are crazy, can you see any logic flying from Oz to Tanzania...via Canada!

Mark, I will be all agog following your journey, and grateful for anyone with some tips or ideas.

[bixaorellana]

Well! This was wonderful in fulfilling my expectations of Zanzibar as a multi-layered exotic place, but it did leave me wanting more. I do appreciate all the explanations you've offered, Mark.

By any chance do you know what the rather fortress-like building at the beginning of #4 might be/have been? Is the very clean white building immediately following "women prayer" a mosque?

Questa is certainly inspired! I'm sure the rest of us will be avidly following anything you tell her.

[onlyMark]

Bixa, the building you refer to is the Park Hyatt Hotel. No wonder it is clean, and it is the most expensive accommodation option, probably on the whole island. We walked in one day like we owned the place and had a drink by the pool. Service was excellent by the way.

Questa, if I can help, I will, but for now there will be more generalisations in the post than specifics. I have some knowledge of details but it depends on what helps you. The main tip though - it is humid. Really humid.

[onlyMark]

Currency – there is a rough 50-50 split between prices being in US dollars and the national Tanzanian Shillings. Hotels will generally quote in Dollars, some restaurants also, but many will still have prices in Shillings, though will except dollars at an appalling exchange rate. The hotels quoting in dollars will also accept local currency, but again at a very unfavourable rate.
Our policy was to use the ATM for local money plus some USD depending on the circumstances. Also generally if you pay a bill using a credit card, an extra 5% will be charged.

One thing was that in the main part of Stone Town, the usual walkable area, there seemed to be only one bank with ATMs. When I was there at Christmas the bank was quiet and access to the ATMs was easy. We pulled out money quite a few times without a problem. The maximum amount each time though was about $300 worth of local money which wasn't a factor for us but – many mid-range to cheaper hotels will not accept credit cards as payment. Ours didn't. They only accepted cash. So for budgeting it is best to be aware that it may be necessary to bring USD with you at a far better exchange rate from home.
If you do bring cash of any major currency it can be exchanged but also take note that you will only get a "good" rate for large bills. Smaller bills of less than say, $50, will be calculated differently. For fifty and hundred dollar bills (and only recent ones) you can get 2200 Shillings for a dollar but only 2000 Shillings for lesser notes.
Tipping can be done in local or USD but I tend to only tip in local money as I'm more inclined to have lower value notes in that currency than USD, UK pounds or Euros anyway.

When we returned after the New Year for half a day before flying out, the same bank and ATMs had just opened after the holidays and the hole in the wall machines were empty. Long, long queues ensued where waiting time was an hour or more as the machines were eventually filled. It would have been far quicker for people to walk ten minutes or so to the outskirts of Stone Town, outside the main walking areas to where the roads were, and there are a couple of others we noticed to be empty of people queuing.

An example of a typical "fast food" menu.
Fast food is a relative and flexible term though, the longest we waited to be served lunch anywhere was two and a half hours. Luckily we were at a beach side place that afforded good views and a relaxing time.
There will be a few menus as we go along, the best option, due to ease of calculation where you see it, is to convert shillings to USD by dividing by 2000 –




Oh dear, another door –




And yet, now a drain cover –




Back to normality, though a few more doors will appear at random at any time. Be prepared. The Park Hyatt again –












Aha! This fairly unimposing building was originally owned by a slave trader who married in to the Omani Royal Family but then in 1888 it became the English Club until the end of the colonial era, latterly a hotel and bar. The terrace is one I've frequented from time to time, with its view over the ocean –




Just across from there is the sea front comprising of poorly maintained concrete with a bit of sand here and there and as expected, several small fishing boats -






These, for want of a better phrase, house boats, are some of the local fishermen –

[questa]

This is my kind of place, old, dilapidated, (good word for "Stone Town"), a story in every lovely door. Simple and laid back. Please don't tell me there are skyscrapers down town! Your photos are great at showing the character of the people. More Please.

I will be there September 15th to 22nd. Staying at the Princess Salme Inn, not far from the ferry terminal.

[onlyMark]

These handmade signs feature a couple of common Swahili phrases. The most well known one would be hakuna matata, which I'm convinced is something not widely used, if it existed, until The Lion King came out.
I bet you actually know a few Swahili words anyway, or at least are familiar with them. Bwana, simba, dengue, and most of all, safari (which purely means a journey or trip, not particularly looking at animals in a game park). The word Jambo is the main greeting, just meaning hello.
Anyone remember a film with John Wayne from years ago called Hatari? Means 'danger'.
Swahili has quite a lot of loan words from other languages as well, due to the long trading history of the coastal regions. English and German are in there, as well as Portugese, but mainly Arabic and Persian. When you count up to ten, three of the words are Arabic.

"Pole Pole" is widely used and means slowly, slowly. It is a 'go to' name for a guest house often. In the following you'll also see Poa Kichizi which means something like 'really cool' or 'totally cool'.
For info, thank you is Asante (add Sana on for emphasis) and Karibu is welcome.
Helpful is that Ndio is yes, but even better when approached by touts – Hapana is no. So walk round saying Hapana Asante/Asante Hapana every few minutes to people approaching you and you'll manage well.

The word 'jambo', as in hello is widely used but I noticed a different one used between locals. I asked one about this soon after arriving, actually the first day. I was told jambo is a word tourists will often know and is used to them, but one normal greeting would be the slightly different Hujambo, which encompasses hello and a question of 'how are you?' I always used before Jambo and then Habari ( a stand-alone "How are you?").
So from then on the following conversation would be the norm, especially when I didn't want to be bothered by any touts –
Him – "Jambo"
Me – "Hujambo"
Him – "Sijambo (or often Mzuri). Habari?" (I'm fine. How are you?)
Me – " Poa kichizi kama ndizi" (recognised idiom – 'totally cool like a banana')
Whilst laughter ensued, I'd carry on walking away.




Carrying on wandering at random -

[onlyMark]

Questa - nope, no skyscrapers.
Err.. just had a look where the Princess Salme Inn is.
I'm sure it will be lovely............ as long as the wind is in the right direction and not coming from the docks and fish market just nearby, like just over the road. It'll certainly be a lively area.

[questa]

I should get some good 'people at work' shots and see lots of activity. I grew up in a small town with its fleet of trawlers, fish packing and 3 ferries. My kid brother and I would jump on the ferry as it left the pier and trot around the decks and cabin collecting the passengers' fares for the assistant. The fishermen would return from the sea on Friday mornings, and spread their nets on the nearby football field and we would help them find and mend any holes. No nylon nets then and they had to have the field cleared for the players by Saturday.

I think the smell of fish and marine diesel fuel will seem like home to me.

[onlyMark]

No problem then.

[mickthecactus]

Jan 5, 2018 11:15:44 GMT questa said:

I should get some good 'people at work' shots and see lots of activity. I grew up in a small town with its fleet of trawlers, fish packing and 3 ferries. My kid brother and I would jump on the ferry as it left the pier and trot around the decks and cabin collecting the passengers' fares for the assistant. The fishermen would return from the sea on Friday mornings, and spread their nets on the nearby football field and we would help them find and mend any holes. No nylon nets then and they had to have the field cleared for the players by Saturday.

I think the smell of fish and marine diesel fuel will seem like home to me.

That sounds great. No chance now thanks to Health and Safety.

[bjd]

You should have a great time, Questa. You have travelled enough not to be upset or surprised by poor conditions.

Our only bad experience in Lamu was one day going to eat in a seafront restaurant. Other than one or two locals, we were the only ones in there. We ordered off the menu that was posted on the wall. The food was lousy. When it came time to pay, the man asked us for much more than the posted cost. When we asked why (the obvious answer was "because you are white tourists"), he pulled out a "tourist menu" from under the counter and indeed the prices were much higher for the same food.

My son had to run (it was pouring rain) back to the guest house to get more money. Meanwhile, I stayed at the restaurant and told the guy he was dishonest and that his food was crappy and that I would tell everyone I met not to eat there.

But otherwise, people were really friendly. Even the touts eventually go away. It helped too that my son spoke a fair amount of Swahili after 4 months in Kenya.

[onlyMark]

Usual Muslim dress -








Muslim and African dress –




Damn, another door –












The entry to a tourist souvenir shop. Remind me to mention about the Maasai later –




Japanese restaurant (small sign) –




Moving still –

[onlyMark]

Not far on the outskirts of Stone Town you can walk to a couple of small beaches that look actually quite fine, but I wouldn't drop my towel down there and go for a swim. In the distance you can see where I am heading for – the docks (eventuallyish) –














A portion if the old fort, which is just a series of walls. Inside is an open area littered with a few market stalls and rubbish. Not worth a photo at this time –




Aha! One of the grandest buildings in the city/island, the "House of Wonders".
Yeah, right.




We'll get there in a second. Just a shot or two of a wedding party enjoying the sea breezes on the front -

[kerouac2]

Definitely a fascinating place, but the traces left by colonial cultures always seem to dominate. This is not necessarily a bad thing but shows a different world view -- "built to last" vs "built for the moment" -- and of course the various hybrids of both concepts.

Places where cultures have not clashed and resolved their differences are much more boring.