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Post by amboseli on Feb 8, 2019 9:26:59 GMT
Costa Rica has been on our bucket list for a long time. Beautiful nature, that appeals to us. Still, there were a number of things that mainly stopped me: 1. the long flight (at least 16 hours – back then with a stopover in Panama or in the US) 2. the time difference of 7 hours 3. the heat and the high humidity. That is why it lasted until 2019 until I dared to jump. The long flight had now been reduced to 11 hours and 45 minutes (KLM flies directly to San José in the winter). And the heat … oh well, I had survived it this summer in our own little country. This was a trip out of our comfort zone. It was our first ever group tour where I had no control at all over things. Difficult, but given the medical problems my husband has faced the past year, this was the only way to go. Afterwards I can only conclude that the trip was 100% successful. We can look back on a beautiful, fascinating but also very tiring journey. Amsterdam - San José – La FortunaJanuary 11 ... at 7:15 PM local time we arrive in San José where our tour guide is already waiting for us. When our little group was complete, Jorge – who would be our regular driver during the whole journey - takes us to the hotel Balmoral in San José for a night's sleep after the long flight. After breakfast with the typical Costarican dish gallo pinto (rice with beans) we are expected at the bus at 7:30 the next morning for the 130 km drive to La La Fortuna. In Belgium this would be a one hour trip ... in Costa Rica three long hours. But the road we drive is beautiful. It runs right through the Parque Nacional Braulio Carillo, through the mountains and cloud forests of the central volcanic valley. Our first experience with a cloud forest and our first (and only) tropical rain shower. Along the way we visit a banana and pineapple plantation in Sarapiqui on the Finca Sura of the Gómez family. Besides pineapple and bananas, the family grows other fruits (yummie guanabana!) and spices on a small scale (cinnamon, clove, pepper and turmeric). It is not a big plantation and everything is for local trade and for personal use. We get an extensive tour and tasting on the finca and the plantation. We spot butterflies, iguanas and poisonous ‘blue jeans’ frogs. In the afternoon we enjoy lunch with tilapia my husband caught from their pond, fresh vegetables and fruit from Rodolfo's garden. The pineapples were to die for. More to follow ...
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Post by lagatta on Feb 8, 2019 13:27:52 GMT
My friends who have visited there (fortunately they were able to travel independently) loved it, including the relatively high concern for environmental protection by the region's standards. Obviously there are either direct flights or just a change in Toronto (i.e. not having to pass through US customs and immigration) and it is a much shorter flight. I was attending a conference in Paris and there were friends and colleagues from Chile, Argentina and Brazil, and it is a grueling flight, as they are not only crossing the Atlantic but travelling from the Southern to Northern Hemisphere.
Fresh turmeric is wonderful. It does not have the bitterness of the dried spice.
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Post by amboseli on Feb 8, 2019 13:43:21 GMT
Mid afternoon we arrive in La Fortuna and we settle into a cozy cabaña at hotel Arenal Montechiari with a beautiful view of the Arenal volcano ... covered by a thick layer of clouds. We explore the beautiful domain and go to bed early because the jetlag isn’t out of our bodies yet and the next morning there is another long drive on the program: after a two hour drive to Los Chiles we are going to go boating on the Rio Frio in Caño Negro, all the way to the border with Nicaragua. It’s a nice and quiet cruise where we see many caimans and many birds, but also small turtles, iguanas and sloths. When we get back to the hotel, the top of the Arenal is still in the clouds. Monday morning we are expected at the bus at 7:30 am and this is our last chance to admire the Arenal in all its glory because today we continue to Rincón de la Vieja (province Guanacaste). And we are lucky: right before we close the door of our cabaña the last string of cloud disappears. Rincón de la Vieja - SámaraOn the way to Rincón de la Vieja we did a two-hour suspension walk in Mistico park. We have seen few animals; it was mostly very green and there was the occasional drop of rain. This is still the Atlantic side of the Cordillera Central where it rains all year round. Once we are at the other side of the cordillera, the sun shines and it is sweltering hot. After we have moved into our cabaña in the Buena Vista Lodge we hurry to the mirador overlooking the valley and the Pacific Ocean in the distance to enjoy a nice cocktail and the sunset. Tuesday is a free day to enjoy all that the big domain has to offer. A number of fellow travelers go horse riding, others do a 10 km walk to the waterfalls and together with a travel companion I explore the grounds. We sit at the pool, go for a coffee in the coffee roasting shop and take a lot of photos! In the evening, after closing time, the hot springs and the spa were opened exclusively for our group. We rub ourselves with volcanic mud, rinse ourselves under a cold shower and then enter the thermal baths. The thermal hot springs spring from the depth of the Rincón de la Vieja volcano. The water is crystal clear and the different pools also have different temperatures. All this in the heart of the lush tropical forest. After a pleasant massage by Doña Rosa we end the day with a barbecue. More to come ...
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Post by kerouac2 on Feb 8, 2019 15:57:48 GMT
Loving it -- and I have never met a single person who did not love Costa Rica, not only for lush scenery but also for being the country which abolished its army in 1949 and which lives perfectly well without it. It is also one of the most ecological countries in the world.
I am impressed by the wildlife. Even though we all know about sloths, I'm sure I am not the only person who had no idea where to find them.
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Post by amboseli on Feb 8, 2019 17:57:35 GMT
We, too, were pretty impressed by the wildlife. And we haven't even been to the Osa Peninsula which is known for its abundant wildlife. We have seen many sloths, but also raccoons and nose bars. It's totally different from the wildlife in Africa but interesting nonetheless.
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Post by amboseli on Feb 8, 2019 18:02:19 GMT
On Wednesday we can sleep in some and leave at 8.30 am to our next destination: Sámara (Province of Guanacaste) on the Pacific Ocean. But first we make a long walk in the Parque Nacional Rincón de la Vieja. Dry savannah this time, with totally different inhabitants: spider monkeys, fat toads, many butterflies, leaf ants, spiders, snakes, long-nose bats, toucans and other birds, special trees such as the strangler fig and the pochote, geysers and mud pools. And especially a lot of mosquitoes and blood suckers. Yuck! In the afternoon we check in at the very simple hotel Sámara Beach. But it is ideally located in the heart of the small, charming village, a 2-minute walk from the white beach. Sámara has a great caribbean vibe. On the beach there’s a series of bars and restaurants, and if you order a drink you can use a lounger or a hammock for free all day. That is what we did the next day. But we had already made a beach walk at 7 am - before breakfast - because during the day it was really hot. And the two evenings in Sámara we ate on the beach, literally with our feet in the sand. Palo Verde - Manuel Antonio - Puerto Viejo de Sarapiquí - TortugueroFriday after breakfast we drive via Nicoya, where during a coffee stop we see red and blue macaws, to Palo Verde (province Guanacaste) where we will stay two nights in the Hacienda La Pacifica. Again a beautiful property where we meet other animals: wild dogs, agoutis and especially many howler monkeys that have kept us awake half the nights. They make a sound that is impossible to describe, but even the best ear plugs do not stop it.
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Post by kerouac2 on Feb 8, 2019 18:31:18 GMT
Raccoons are no big deal for me because raccoons and opossums prowled around my childhood house every night and would even come to peer into the windows.
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Post by amboseli on Feb 8, 2019 18:52:11 GMT
I have never seen raccoons before, so they were pretty special for me.
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Post by bixaorellana on Feb 8, 2019 21:31:31 GMT
Ha ha ~ Amboseli, I was friends with a couple who moved to the Gulf Coast of Mississippi. He was from Scotland and she from Capetown, SA. The first time I visited them in their new home, we were sitting in the living room looking out across the deck and the wooded area beyond, commenting on how lovely and rural it seemed. Then the husband said, "Say, do you know what animal has a bushy tail and a black band across its eyes?" I just laughed and waited for the punchline until finally the wife said, "She doesn't know either." It wasn't a riddle -- they really wanted ID on the first raccoon they'd ever seen.
This trip sounds wonderful, especially since it started with a direct flight. And it seems organized to give everyone ample time to see things plus some free time. What is most impressive is the wide array of environments you got to enjoy, not to mention the vegetation and the animals. (I didn't know about sloths, either). It would have been an awful lot harder to see that many places on your own, I would imagine. Gosh, everything from jungle to seaside! I'm not at all a beach person, but do have a cherished memory of eating right on the sand just as you describe -- pure peace and contentment. You got some fabulous pictures. The agouti is adorable. How big is it?
Sorry to hear about your husband's problems. Wasn't it just this past summer that you all were biking all over the place? Hope he is better soon.
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Post by lagatta on Feb 8, 2019 23:04:33 GMT
I'm not a beach person either, but I'd certainly enjoy walking along one of those beaches early in the morning.
Beaches always seem a bit rôtisseries for humans, especially with the sunscreen. I did enjoy walking along a beach on the Flemish coast... at the end of winter. It was rather sunny and mild for the time and place, but I was wearing a coat and scarf.
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Post by amboseli on Feb 8, 2019 23:10:09 GMT
Thank you bixa.
We could have done the same on our own but we definitely would have done it on a much lower pace. One of the disadvantages of traveling with a group is that you can't stop when or where you want. We drove through so many cute villages with colourful houses. I would have loved to walk by, maybe talk to the locals who are very communicative towards tourists.
My husband is ok now. He had a PVI ablation in December for atrial fibrillation. The procedure was pretty acute and urgent. These fibrillations made him faint a few times, once while he was driving. So there was no option of driving himself this time. I have no problem with driving in places I know but I didn't want to drive in Costa Rica (although I could have because trafic isn't bad at all).
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Post by amboseli on Feb 9, 2019 9:26:33 GMT
I did enjoy walking along a beach on the Flemish coast... at the end of winter. It was rather sunny and mild for the time and place, but I was wearing a coat and scarf. We do that, too. We love to be near the sea. 'Roasting' is not for me, either. But relaxing under a palm tree on the beach in Costa Rica, with a good book in hand, was very enjoyable I must say.
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Post by amboseli on Feb 9, 2019 9:27:28 GMT
Saturday, on the way to our boat trip on the Bebedero River, we pass various small villages with colorful houses and miles of rice and sugar cane fields. During the boat trip we see many iguanas, Jesus Christ lizards and crocodiles. And once in the mangroves a lot of different water birds and other birds. The next day we drive to Manuel Antonio (province of Puntarenas). We use the Pan-American Highway, a two-lane road, at a maximum speed of 80 km per hour. It is a long journey and it seems as if it will never end. We stop at the Tarcoles river where countless crocodiles lie on the banks. The combination of long days, bad sleep, heat and high humidity is starting to take its toll on me. We stay two nights at Hotel Tabulia Tree. Our 'villa' is quite high on the property and it is extremely hot. Fortunately, they have golf carts driving guests to their rooms. But first we go for a walk in the Parque Nacional Manuel Antonio. A guide accompanies us with telescope binoculars. Fantastic how you can see the tiniest details of the animals. Many sloths in the park, pink pelicans, birds of prey and spider monkeys. At the end of the walk we arrive at the beautiful white beach where it is teeming with Capuchin monkeys. They look so innocent ... On Sunday we have the opportunity to go zip-lining, if we are prepared to get up at 6 am. No thanks, we would rather sleep in a little, and then spend a few hours at the pool. In the afternoon our whole group makes a trimaran trip on the ocean. There is music, food and drinks. We see one whale (it’s not the season to spot whales and dolphins). We spend a very relaxing afternoon on board and we enjoy the spectacular sunset. In the evening, back at the hotel, the whole group celebrates my husband’s 65th birthday with a beautiful and delicious chocolate cake offered by our tour guide. The next morning at breakfast we are greeted by squirrel monkeys. Again there is a long drive from Quepos via San José and Braulio Carillo to Puerto Viejo de Sarapiqui (province of Heredia) in the Caribbean lowlands, where we spend the night in the Ara Ambigua Lodge to break the long drive to Tortuguero. It is a simple hotel, but again with a beautiful garden with lots of flowers where, that evening, we see frogs with red eyes that are so typical for Costa Rica. It is very green, very humid and very hot. So happy with the good working A/C in our room. Our last two nights are spent in Tortuguero (province of Limón), on the Atlantic Ocean. The only way to get there is by boat, one and a half hour on the rivers before we arrive at the Laguna Lodge. We take a short walk in the village of Tortuguero but there’s not much to see. A few bars, a restaurant and some souvenir shops. And the beach with its black volcanic sand. On our last full day we make a boat trip in the Parque Nacional Tortuguero. We leave with a bit of rain but soon it clears up and the heat is oppressive – 33°C, feeling as 39 ° I see on my phone. Again we see all kinds of animals, especially a lot of birds. We spend the afternoon in the shade at the pool and in the evening we enjoy a drink from the tour company. We exchange mail addresses with our travel companions and we prepare for the long journey back to San José and then the night flight to Amsterdam. ¡Pura Vida!
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Post by breeze on Feb 9, 2019 14:39:15 GMT
amboseli, you saw so much wildlife and plant life. Most impressive! It's almost a catalog of Costa Rica's natural riches.
I earlier mentioned Lankester Gardens. It's a short bus ride from San Jose. We were able to see lots of tropical plants in one place, but to see them as you did, in nature, is even better.
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Post by kerouac2 on Feb 9, 2019 18:38:16 GMT
Totally magnificent report with so many stunning photographs. Especially as I get on in years, I have absolutely nothing against group tours in some of the more complicated countries, but they will always drive right past places where you wanted to stop. But I only worry about the chronic complainers and of course the people who are always late for some lame reason. They drive me up the wall.
It looks like the crocodiles like to space themselves out for sunning -- perhaps out of reach of an unexpected bite from their neighbour?
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Post by bixaorellana on Feb 9, 2019 18:53:39 GMT
Ditto, what Breeze said! That first set in #12 looks as though you were able to get quite close to the various sights on the river. Great group of pictures, as are all of them throughout this remarkable report. We stop at the Tarcoles river where countless crocodiles lie on the banks. Um, how long did you stop and how close did you get? Wow. The combination of long days, bad sleep, heat and high humidity is starting to take its toll on me. Yes, the down side of a set tour, but also of short trips. It's a luxury to be able to build in time for doing nothing and recharging your batteries. Amboseli, in the third set of reply #12, I am pretty sure that your pink pelican is actually a roseate spoonbill -- an exciting thing to see. Thank you so much for showing your wonderful trip. This is a visual and informational treasure. Mr. Amboseli looks most content and happy in that last picture of him. And your ending picture looks like paradise.
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Post by amboseli on Feb 9, 2019 19:21:35 GMT
But I only worry about the chronic complainers and of course the people who are always late for some lame reason. They drive me up the wall. It looks like the crocodiles like to space themselves out for sunning -- perhaps out of reach of an unexpected bite from their neighbour? I must say we have been very lucky with our group. These were all people who are used to travel in group. We were the only novices. No-one was ever late, no-one ever complained. Really very nice people.
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Post by amboseli on Feb 9, 2019 19:29:50 GMT
@bixa Yes, we could get quite close to the various sights on the river, AND my camera is better than I knew it was. The croc wasn't really close (close enough for me) but my camera did a good close-up. The birds were the hardest to photograph. And you are right about the roseate spoonbill.
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Post by mossie on Feb 10, 2019 8:22:30 GMT
Looks like you had a super holiday, it is good in a strange place to have a guide to take you to the sights. Wandering about alone is a sure fire way of missing the best bits. Super sets of photos.
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Post by amboseli on Feb 10, 2019 9:28:28 GMT
Thanks all.
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Post by questa on Feb 10, 2019 18:26:34 GMT
Amboseli, I thought you were using professionally taken photos at first...your wildlife collection is brilliant. Do the critters just stand and pose for you? I have a large collection of hind legs and tails disappearing out of shot. Your trip sounds interesting, my neighbour went there last year and loved it. Thanks for sharing your great pics.
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Post by fumobici on Feb 10, 2019 20:28:36 GMT
Lovely report. I have numerous friends/family with ties to Costa Rica. They have mostly loved it there, though some obviously more than others. I have never had any desire to visit the tropics, I hate heat and humidity, but the photos show very nicely why others do. I have yet to hear anyone describe the local cuisine as anything other than boring or "meh", did you find some interesting food there? Situated between Mexico and Peru, it's hard to imagine the food being uninteresting everywhere.
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Post by amboseli on Feb 10, 2019 22:14:52 GMT
I have yet to hear anyone describe the local cuisine as anything other than boring or "meh", did you find some interesting food there? Local cuisine is mainly a variation of arroz con pollo/pescado with beans and/or baked banana. No, local cuisine is not spectacular. But in the larger places we found good Italian and Asian cuisine. I still find it odd, though, to eat gallo pinto (rice & beans & scrambled egg) for breakfast as the tico's do.
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Post by amboseli on Feb 10, 2019 22:24:18 GMT
Amboseli, I thought you were using professionally taken photos at first...your wildlife collection is brilliant. Do the critters just stand and pose for you? I have a large collection of hind legs and tails disappearing out of shot. Your trip sounds interesting, my neighbour went there last year and loved it. Thanks for sharing your great pics. Oh wow, such a compliment! Thank you. You don't want to see my collection of hind legs and tails disappearing out of shot! That's the advantage of digital photography. I have around 1500 photos out of which 1200 can be deleted right away.
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Post by questa on Feb 10, 2019 23:25:33 GMT
The other great thing about digital is the fact you can go bang-bang-bang and take many shots of your subject, then keep the best without having to think of the price of developing and printing.
I took 36 rolls of 35mm film to Vietnam, for 5 weeks. Dev & Print was cheap there, and I wanted to see the pics quickly, so had them processed as I travelled. Have you any idea how much weight is in folders of prints? I thought I was going to be up for excess baggage.
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