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Post by lugg on Oct 4, 2020 10:43:07 GMT
This really is just a post card – not much to say / show you other than what a gorgeous part of Wales this is. A couple of weeks ago, we were enjoying such amazing September weather that I decided on a spur of the moment to take a short break; absolutely it had to be close to the sea and, after much searching, I ended up in this part of Wales. Probably, one of the least visited in terms of tourists and also one of the most rural areas of Wales. I have been a couple of times but once was about 55 years ago and the most recent 30 years ago so I really knew very little about the area. Deciding factors – well other than being coastal the opportunity to see dolphins and seals appealed, as did the info assuring me that the accommodation providers took great care re Covid and cleaning and, plus, Ceredigion has / had very low rates of Covid infection. The icing on the cake was that the accommodation had sole use of a hot tub. I had read that many arthritis sufferers find them to be very beneficial and so I wanted to know if that would be true for my crappy left knee. It’s not that far to my destination (Aberporth) from my home but the route, although stunning, is tortuous in part due to the hilly and mountainous terrain, skirting the Brecon Beacons and crossing the Cambrian Mountains... so 107 miles = about 3 hours driving ;even greater concentration than normal is required for much of it. Locator Aberporth is just about where I have added the cross live.staticflickr.com/65535/50415423888_228f346a74_n.jpgSome photos taken as I travelled over the Cambrian Mountains, I hope they give a sense of just hoiw rural this part of Wales is, live.staticflickr.com/65535/50379813056_2c3532ab62_b.jpglive.staticflickr.com/65535/50379153408_74e7d548f7_b.jpglive.staticflickr.com/65535/50380030487_47ae9dce43_b.jpglive.staticflickr.com/65535/50379152248_2f369b234c_b.jpglive.staticflickr.com/65535/50380028362_882fe835eb_b.jpgLooking towards the coast – just beyond the horizon live.staticflickr.com/65535/50379994267_18d975e1db_b.jpglive.staticflickr.com/65535/50379812086_5d5d4f8eac_b.jpgAfter a warm welcome from the owners and a quick tour I dumped my stuff and headed back out to see Aberporth, just as the sun was starting to go down. I had no idea at all what to expect and was so very pleasantly surprised by how lovely it was. Population is about 2,500 and about half speak Welsh, I guess the other half are English incomers. Once the village was home to the herring industry but now fishing is mostly for lobster and crab. Otherwise it relies on tourism. live.staticflickr.com/65535/50380001587_2febb33e84_b.jpglive.staticflickr.com/65535/50379820176_0532d6a883_b.jpgIt has two beaches – this one is Dyffryn, which is dog friendly all year round... (Important to me as my dog was joining me later.) live.staticflickr.com/65535/50379819716_f47bd00e03_b.jpglive.staticflickr.com/65535/50380077647_1ce38af59c_b.jpgThis is Dolwen live.staticflickr.com/65535/50379895141_478eba1135_b.jpgThe weather was beautiful and the sea very calm live.staticflickr.com/65535/50415632373_f16712db0c_b.jpglive.staticflickr.com/65535/50416489562_7df8fbccea_b.jpglive.staticflickr.com/65535/50380106947_9af1f3d3a6_b.jpglive.staticflickr.com/65535/50379122988_cd70324e1e_b.jpglive.staticflickr.com/65535/50379199068_2e19c765fe_b.jpgCardigan Bay has a resident population of approx. 250 bottle nosed dolphins so of course I was hoping to see some. This one was fairly easy to spot; live.staticflickr.com/65535/50379897476_603d8958f0_b.jpglive.staticflickr.com/65535/50380078307_b2641e378d_b.jpgBut then I as was taking some photos of this headland I spotted a movement in the sea, live.staticflickr.com/65535/50379121143_fb98f48970_b.jpgZoomed in and clicked away and yes … live.staticflickr.com/65535/50379120653_b73d5ffd00_b.jpgSo just a glimpse but I headed home feeling very happy. More to follow
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Post by kerouac2 on Oct 4, 2020 11:22:19 GMT
It looks completely delightful. Your photos seems to have completely captured the atmosphere and the lack of tourist hordes.
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Post by mossie on Oct 4, 2020 13:50:38 GMT
I love the row of coloured houses, jst right for such a place.
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Post by onlyMark on Oct 4, 2020 14:00:02 GMT
Lugg - It is quite a difficult concept to relay to foreign visitors that life exists outside of London and some other major sites. I appreciate many have a limited time, but after a first visit to tick the boxes, few seem to venture further afield or even think it necessary to do so if/when they return. Wales is a goody box of things to see and places to go and much underrated as a destination by itself - as can be seen by your lovely photos. As a kid we'd often have our family holiday camping in two or three places in Wales and yes, the weather didn't always hold up, but it hardly stopped us. Castles, countryside, beaches, walking, whatever, it has it all.
Welsh cakes, bara brith, cawl, Glamorgan sausage, tatws pum munud (had to look up the spelling) and tons of other good regional food can be had (I expect harder to find authentic stuff than fifty years ago when we were there regularly) - but the accent - that's what even now gets me - a pretty woman with a welsh accent still makes me weak kneed and the soft, lilting, sing-song way of speaking leaves me at their mercy.
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Post by bixaorellana on Oct 4, 2020 14:36:00 GMT
Oh, Lugg! I was torn between enjoying -- wallowing in -- your gorgeous pictures and captions and thinking that you should immediately hide this thread so no one finds out about this glorious place.
Except for the occasional telephone or electrical post, some of the pictures could be from 200 years ago. Are those horses the famous Welsh ponies? So glad you got a dolphin sighting before heading in for the night. I guess your knee was throbbing after that tense drive through the mountains. This looks like the most perfect get-away. Can't wait to see more!
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Post by mickthecactus on Oct 4, 2020 15:40:05 GMT
What a great report! Looking forward to more.
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Post by lugg on Oct 4, 2020 18:36:06 GMT
Thank you all ! Your photos seems to have completely captured the atmosphere and the lack of tourist hordes. - well the end of the season and Covid helped somewhat. I love the row of coloured houses, just right for such a place. Me too Mossie Wales is a goody box of things to see and places to go and much underrated as a destination by itself - Absolutely ...but I think the lack of public transport and driving on the left on one track roads inhibits many foreign visitors. the soft, lilting, sing-song way of speaking leaves me at their mercy. ...as is/ was Michael Douglas . But yes I feel the same , love the accent. Of course here in Herefordshire it is fairly common-place. Are those horses the famous Welsh ponies? So glad you got a dolphin sighting before heading in for the night. I guess your knee was throbbing after that tense drive through the mountains. Yes indeed re the ponies and re knee it soon recovered in the hot tub !
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Post by htmb on Oct 4, 2020 18:48:07 GMT
Beautiful, Lugg! This looks like my kind of place, for sure. Looking forward to hearing more about your trip.
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Post by lugg on Oct 5, 2020 17:23:34 GMT
Thank you htmb, yes I think you would like it here.
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Post by lugg on Oct 5, 2020 17:27:38 GMT
So before I move on I will show a little of the cottage itself. ( I always love to see APs accommodation in their trip reports ) It is an annex to the main house sited on an equine small holding in the hills above Aberporth. It has its own secure garden plus an area where the hot tub and the indoor BBQ house was situated. live.staticflickr.com/65535/50380073382_0f979e6e9d_b.jpglive.staticflickr.com/65535/50379893791_948358bc13_b.jpglive.staticflickr.com/65535/50379894071_7f8ea74c0d_b.jpgA few things caught my eye as I wandered around the garden during my time there; live.staticflickr.com/65535/50380048932_436524459b_b.jpglive.staticflickr.com/65535/50379171353_6ff1efdeb6_b.jpglive.staticflickr.com/65535/50380046642_40ec0ee83e_b.jpglive.staticflickr.com/65535/50379172183_857c24d29f_b.jpgInside – A cosy sitting room and well equipped kitchen, two bedrooms upstairs but only one is a designated bedroom. The owners do not want more than 2 people staying at any one time; but well behaved pooches are welcome. live.staticflickr.com/65535/50379194263_bd703ee39f_b.jpglive.staticflickr.com/65535/50379891436_ec0cf9f19e_b.jpgSo first things first – I had my first date with the hot tub – blissful. I could feel it doing its magical work on my knee. A few photos to give you an idea of the set up in this part of the garden. The cute little hobbit house revealed itself to be an indoor BBQ. live.staticflickr.com/65535/50379253228_ab72e6f0a3_b.jpglive.staticflickr.com/65535/50379196973_aa22622b18_b.jpglive.staticflickr.com/65535/50380133222_3b2fcd530f_b.jpglive.staticflickr.com/65535/50379193813_67a22e9c7d_b.jpglive.staticflickr.com/65535/50380032557_8dc8e012f4_b.jpgSunrise from upstairs looking down at Aberporth, live.staticflickr.com/65535/50379889906_a4a70290de_b.jpgMoving on ….I had just researched two things for this break; the first was to find and book a dolphin/ seal boat trip and the second, was to find a fishmongers selling locally caught fish. So next day I headed out to the hamlet of Gwbert, the most southerly point of Cardigan Bay on the Teifi estuary which is just a short 15mins drive from the cottage. On the way I stopped to admire the views of the Teifi as it leaves Cardigan and heads for the sea. live.staticflickr.com/65535/50380069777_a2a20c9dc9_b.jpgThe weather was still lovely but there was a strong easterly wind, which I later learnt was quite unusual for this part of the world. I had had a text message in the morning from the boat operators, “A Bay To Remember” advising me not to park on the beach as the tides were high and indeed they were – the area opposite would normally be a wide expanse of sand ...on the far right of the photo below is where I had to be, normally walkable, but unless I waded that would not be possible. live.staticflickr.com/65535/50379888601_35033f5991_b.jpglive.staticflickr.com/65535/50379192468_4edf588820_b.jpgAnyway, after a phone call and a detour, I and the other hapless day trippers finally managed to get to the pontoon and off we went. What a blast – sadly no dolphins, lots of seals and pups and such stunning scenery / geology all enhanced by the knowledge of the guys who ran the trip. (A bonus of Covid meant mainly unrestricted views due to the restricted numbers on board.) To keep the business going the family had decided to charge more for the tickets, otherwise they would have been making a loss with each boat journey. I did not mind that at all and was happy to support them in this way. live.staticflickr.com/65535/50380067917_31847691ab_b.jpglive.staticflickr.com/65535/50379886311_4f2e2eedf1_b.jpgThe usual trip is to circumnavigate Cardigan Island and then go on up the bay but the sea was so rough here that we only saw a small part of the island before the skipper decided to head off in the opposite direction where it was more sheltered. I was so glad I had followed advice and worn many layers and waterproofs as we got drenched in the rough seas and the wind was biting. Hard to believe that it was a lovely sunny day on land. Cardigan Island is protected from humans and once was home to the rare Puffin and Manx Shearwater, but no longer, as their colonies was wiped out by rats deserting a sinking ship. The rats have long been eradicated but the shearwater and puffin have not returned. live.staticflickr.com/65535/50407432316_84f56d39a9_b.jpgI was lucky enough to see this fairly rare young Razorbill who was still trying to gain sufficient weight before flying out to sea where it will spend most of its life. Coming back to shore only to breed, with its lifetime partner, it dives deep into the sea to catch fish. The majority of their feeding occurs at a depth of 25 m (82 ft.) but they have the ability to dive up to 120 m (390 ft.) below the surface. The photos are not great, but the sea was wild and I was also trying to protect the lens from water. live.staticflickr.com/65535/50423908952_751f0b62f5_b.jpglive.staticflickr.com/65535/50423908857_199902e25e_b.jpglive.staticflickr.com/65535/50423908897_fe5014e1ce_b.jpgHeading back to calmer waters we passed some amazing geological formations, you may also see some seal pups in some of the photos; the seals are Atlantic Grey Seals. live.staticflickr.com/65535/50380117012_6ed62540ff_b.jpglive.staticflickr.com/65535/50407585947_c343e492b4_b.jpglive.staticflickr.com/65535/50380117342_733af38bca_b.jpglive.staticflickr.com/65535/50380062327_1ded376aff_b.jpglive.staticflickr.com/65535/50379885591_20f754002b_b.jpglive.staticflickr.com/65535/50379939171_1f8f2d3d76_b.jpglive.staticflickr.com/65535/50379186303_ca956fa779_b.jpglive.staticflickr.com/65535/50379939496_970245287e_b.jpglive.staticflickr.com/65535/50379939726_6a06b75a66_b.jpg live.staticflickr.com/65535/50379240803_c9b54a74bb_b.jpglive.staticflickr.com/65535/50379243388_54ea5e273a_b.jpglive.staticflickr.com/65535/50379941506_61c5d69a22_b.jpgUnfortunately through sheer stupidity I have lost some of my best photos that I took of the seals but here are a few that survived the disaster, Can you spot her? live.staticflickr.com/65535/50406731013_072795e10e_b.jpglive.staticflickr.com/65535/50407588062_1e4e39d499_b.jpgAha … closer now, live.staticflickr.com/65535/50406730873_675ae4370d_b.jpgMum and pup live.staticflickr.com/65535/50407436201_ffa3ae52f4_b.jpgFurther along two pups, the one in the background is the older. live.staticflickr.com/65535/50407586952_726a8d4c0e_b.jpgThoroughly exhilarating experience, despite the lack of dolphin sightings. Although, heading back into the Teifi estuary the warmth of the sun and the calm sea were welcome. live.staticflickr.com/65535/50424090627_2c81deab73_b.jpglive.staticflickr.com/65535/50424099642_70d08d1b5f_b.jpgI will finish this section with a few photos of the estuary itself that I took just after the boat ride from a look out point. live.staticflickr.com/65535/50379942321_f96e0c3aba_b.jpglive.staticflickr.com/65535/50380057722_39e0d54f72_b.jpgMore to follow.
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Post by htmb on Oct 5, 2020 17:51:41 GMT
You’re right! The geological formations are fabulous to see. What a beautiful area! I could get lost and spend lots of time just looking at all the ways the earth bends and curves. Too bad about your other seal pictures, but these certainly give us a good idea of what you saw. And what a sweet place to stay! It appears the owners are taking good care to protect themselves as well as their guests.
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Post by lagatta on Oct 5, 2020 18:00:06 GMT
I couldn't resist looking up cardigan (the buttoned sweater) in relation to the Welsh place (Cardigan is of course an anglicised name).
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Post by bixaorellana on Oct 6, 2020 0:31:26 GMT
Good grief! Of course I have seen pictures of amazing geological formations before, but I don't think I've every seen any that were so striking and so beautiful. What drop-dead gorgeous pictures, too -- and you got them from a bobbing inflatable!
It's good that you opted for that place with so many amenities such as the hot tub. You must have been quite grateful after the cold, windy day at sea.
Yes, the mommy seal! Did you know the pup in the background was older because of the color of its coat? Ecologically this area is fascinating -- the razorbill with its niche feeding area, and the bird population wiped out by the incursion of alien rats.
Your pictures are incredible, from the ones in the garden, to the landscapes, to the miraculous shots from the boat trip.
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Post by fumobici on Oct 6, 2020 3:09:57 GMT
Yes those folded, layered rocks on the shore are very striking. Looks like a lovely, relaxing place to spend some time, but come on, those Cambrian "mountains" are more like rolling hills. Was all this originally forest? It looks by the lushness of it, that it must've once been.
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Post by mich64 on Oct 6, 2020 3:54:03 GMT
How terrific was that! Thank you Lugg. I really enjoyed immersing myself in your getaway adventure. Having almost healed from a knee injury this past summer, I can imagine how attractive that hot tub would have been on selecting your accommodation.
The rock formations are intoxicating, they really draw you in. I am glad you dressed well for your excursion. Even here, I pay attention to the weather forecast when we go out on the boat in September, some days are surprising cool and then hot!
Of course I always adore your photos of horses, you just always seem to capture them so well.
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Post by kerouac2 on Oct 6, 2020 5:58:32 GMT
Amazing rock formations. I used to be able to expound on all of these things because I took some geology courses in university and we would go on coastal field trips in California, where you can find exactly the same sorts of formations (with a little help from earthquakes).
Cardigan Island would be a fantastic place to build a creepy stone castle guarded by seals and sea birds in addition to the lethal electric fence.
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Post by mossie on Oct 6, 2020 6:47:11 GMT
What the others have said about those folded rocks, super.
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Post by mickthecactus on Oct 6, 2020 7:05:45 GMT
Absolutely fascinating. Thanks!
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Post by cheerypeabrain on Oct 6, 2020 14:59:13 GMT
Gosh...beautiful photographs meduck. We've had a few holidays in south Wales and love all around St David's and Cardigan Bay. Your intrepid boat trip looked great fun and your fabulous photos of the geological formations are enough to make me want to get my paints out (but end up sobbing because I wouldn't be able to do it justice) I hope that at least one of them has been put in a frame on your wall! I want to go there again next year
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Post by lugg on Oct 6, 2020 18:27:51 GMT
Thank you for your encouraging comments. hills[/quote] ...Yes I guess they are in the grand scheme of things - I think the highest point is a mere 2,500 feet which is peanuts in comparison to other mountain ranges. but come on, those Cambrian "mountains" are more like rolling I hope that at least one of them has been put in a frame on your wall! I want to go there again next year Not yet but yes ... and I do hope you get to go next year Cheery Did you know the pup in the background was older because of the color of its coat? .. Yes but only because the guys on the boat told us. Seal pups when first born are essentially unable to swim and completely reliant on their mothers milk for about 2 weeks .. then it gets much more complicated in terms of what we know about how they mature and thrive in later weeks. (Cardigan is of course an anglicised name). I couldn't resist looking up cardigan (the buttoned sweater) in relation to the Welsh place (Cardigan is of course an anglicised name). Yes anglicised Lagatta - the Welsh name for Cardigan is Aberteifi . I am not sure but from what I have read the name Cardigan is modified from Caredig, son of Cunedda, a chieftain of North Wales. I don't know if there are any links to the garment.
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Post by bjd on Oct 6, 2020 18:55:42 GMT
"History. The cardigan was named after James Brudenell, 7th Earl of Cardigan, a British Army Major General who led the Charge of the Light Brigade at the Battle of Balaclava during the Crimean War. It is modelled after the knitted wool waistcoat that British officers supposedly wore during the war." Wikipedia
Nice pictures, Lugg. Good that you can get out a bit.
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Post by tod2 on Oct 7, 2020 11:31:47 GMT
Lugg, Your high standard of photography is absolutely evident when I pour over and over your fabulous photos! I thought I had seen magnificent rock formations until I saw these. Oh my Giddy Aunt! What an incredible display of nature that happened all those millions of years ago. I was so fascinated I had to know much more about the rocks so found this which gives wonderful information to those folks who are just fascinated by rocks and geology in general. I have collected rocks from all over the world, I love them so much. Information on the Formations: www.visitcardigan.com/explore/geological-landscape/
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Post by lugg on Oct 7, 2020 19:19:35 GMT
great link thank you Tod, I had not seen that before. And thank you for your appreciation. "History. The cardigan was named after James Brudenell, 7th Earl of Cardigan, a British Army Major General who led the Charge of the Light Brigade at the Battle of Balaclava during the Crimean War. It is modelled after the knitted wool waistcoat that British officers supposedly wore during the war." Wikipedia Thanks bjd - I vaguely remember that from my school days ... but what I have not found is a link to explain the naming of Cardigan itself .
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Post by patricklondon on Oct 8, 2020 18:03:45 GMT
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Post by lugg on Oct 8, 2020 18:40:34 GMT
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Post by lugg on Oct 8, 2020 18:48:36 GMT
Sorry Patrick, I expressed my self poorly - what I meant to say is what is what I have not been able to establish is the link , or even if there is a link , between the Earls of Cardigan and this area ?
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Post by htmb on Oct 8, 2020 19:13:18 GMT
Absolutely perfect! What fabulous photos on what looks to be a perfect afternoon. Thanks you so much for these wonderful photos and descriptions!
Did you prepare your meal yourself? Eat there? Take out?
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Post by kerouac2 on Oct 9, 2020 7:29:21 GMT
The weather looks really spectacular, but I also love such places in stormy conditions. No, you don't have to return during a storm just to take pictures. I have not yet eaten the perfect lobster, but yours looks excellent. But I think I will always prefer shrimp and crabs. Even though all of the scenery is different, it is impossible for me not to think of Broadchurch as I peruse the photos.
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Post by bixaorellana on Oct 9, 2020 15:11:40 GMT
So beautiful and, in your pictures at least, seeming so unspoiled by tourism. Your remark about the one track road and high season does seem to indicate a robust tourist population at times, though. Were there touristy shops open for business, or did the combination of covid and autumn mean that the town was gearing down for the winter?
I know exactly what you mean about lobster, since that has always been my attitude towards it. Glad you were proved wrong in this instance!
There is a kite sailing high above the town in the picture just before the red restaurant, although everything looks so calm in the photos. I suppose that close to the sea there must always be at least good breeze every day.
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Post by lugg on Oct 9, 2020 18:46:50 GMT
Did you prepare your meal yourself? Eat there? Take out? They prepped the half lobster for me - it was already cooked but I asked the fishmonger how she would serve it. She told me that although I could just have it as it was , her way would be to pour over melted butter and then grill very carefully - just enough to warm it and not overcook it. So I trusted her ... I took it home and did just that . I think that the other thing that made this lobster so tasty was it also came with roe , again the fishmonger told me about that and said don't waste it ... I didn't. t So beautiful and, in your pictures at least, seeming so unspoiled by tourism. Your remark about the one track road and high season does seem to indicate a robust tourist population at times, though. Were there touristy shops open for business, or did the combination of covid and autumn mean that the town was gearing down for the winter? The roads down to the beaches are tortuous at times - I guess that would be problematic in high season . Touristy shops - I cannot recall any at all. In fact really shops other than for food and garages for petrol and food did not exist. Even though all of the scenery is different, it is impossible for me not to think of Broadchurch as I peruse the photos.
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