Muted Muertos 2020

[bixaorellana]

As this pestilential year drags on, we have come to one of the most important annual festivals in Oaxaca.

Unsurprisingly, it is severely curtailed this year for health reasons. The days of the dead are always observed with music and fun, with wildly imaginative decorations and costumes, with religious solemnity in homes, and with public celebrations all over the state. People will of course be remembering their dead with home altars, but the absence of the exuberant public festival is like a hole in the year.

The local government has been realistically strict in reminding people of the dangers of the pandemic, even putting out posters suggesting how to use things found around the home to make their altars, in order to avoid going to the large central market. Any thought that things might proceed normally was quashed a few weeks ago with pronouncements such as this ~

World politics and the pandemic are enough to drag all of us down, and the dimming of the bright and hopeful festival of Muertos has not helped my mood.
Nevertheless, when I went to my local market on the morning of the 30th, there were the marigolds, the cockscombs, the sugared fruit, candied skulls, and stalks of sugarcane, along with happy customers happily snapping up what they needed to make a home celebration. It cheered me immensely and reminded me that I owe Anyport some form of the annual Muertos report. Here are the pictures I took that afternoon, as the day turned cool and appropriately gray ~

A neighbor's house ~



Across the street from my local market, looking east ~



There's that Muertos buzz!







Inside, the fruit stand which has my allegiance is replete with the specialties necessary to creating the home altar ~







Ever lovely and upbeat Fatima ~

[casimira]

I know how painful this must be for you and many of your friends, neighbors and citizens of Oaxaca and the whole region.

I am however cheered by your brilliant photos and thank you ever so much for getting out and sharing them with us.

[bixaorellana]

Aw thanks, Casimira! This will be a very light report. There are tons of digital events going on here, but sorry, that's not the same.
One nice thing is that many people are showing their home altars on facebook, which fosters that community feeling.

Moving on through the market, here are loquats (Eriobotrya japonica) flanked by pecans and peanuts ~











Jícama (Pachyrhizus erosus) ~





And out on the opposite street side of the market ~

[bixaorellana]

Back on the streets again, here are some orange things for that Halloween vibe ~









The antique shop gives us the precolumbian angle ~





On to the arquitos -- the area of the old aqueduct -- and a visit to Aripo ~

[bixaorellana]

The mural is of Macedonio Alcalá ~

[htmb]

Wonderful photos, Bixa!

[bixaorellana]

Very kind -- thank you, Htmb!

[casimira]

No shortage of marigolds for K2 to have worried about!

As you mentioned early on, and was to be expected, I'm sure that most people had beautiful, lovingly erected altars in their homes. Much like the St. Joseph Day altars here this past March.

Thank you again for the beautiful glimpse of such a time honored tradition.

[bixaorellana]

Thank you, and thanks to all Anyporters -- you all were the impetus behind my going out and recording this year's Muertos.

I'm not used to the time change yet (we "fell back" last Sunday), so wound up taking the dogs for the afternoon walk when it was almost dark. What a difference from other November firsts! There were very few people out and the only masks were those we're supposed to be wearing. I saw one (maskless ) young couple with face paint, but that was it for festivities.

[kerouac2]

I love the photos, but I also appreciate the calm in the streets. It makes the displays seem much more personal rather than being public displays for random visitors. Up until this year, just about every festival everywhere has tried to be bigger and better and more dazzling each time. I find this "back to basics" to be a healthy reset.

[bjd]

I do feel rather sorry for the sellers of marigolds and those red flowers this year. It doesn't look as though they are getting much business.

And perhaps that dark green pottery you show is not specific to Day of the Dead, but I really like it.

[mossie]

Very colourful as always

I loved the notice ordering you to have your mascara on before you could enter.

[mickthecactus]

Great report as ever. Thanks bixa!

[casimira]

Nov 2, 2020 7:01:11 GMT bjd said:

I do feel rather sorry for the sellers of marigolds and those red flowers this year. It doesn't look as though they are getting much business.

The flower vendor in the second group of photos clearly looks disgruntled and unhappy. She also is not wearing a mask so, one can really see her facial expression.

[tod2]

Absolutely fabulous Bixa! The brightness of the colours are put together so well that they are stunning and I can see the effort that was put into making such spectacular displays. Really wonderful in every way and thanks to you Bixa, we are privileged to enjoy them too.

[breeze]

I noticed the same thing kerouac did. This year's Muertos is not as overwhelming but the elements we all enjoy are still there. Even though I've experienced Muertos only through bixa's photos, I've often had the funny feeling that I was being jostled by crowds. We're getting a little snow here, so bright flowers are just the ticket today.

[cheerypeabrain]

Thank you for this Bixa, it shows that despite everything the spirit and traditions of the community are still there. Even if it is subdued.

[bixaorellana]

Nov 2, 2020 5:13:52 GMT kerouac2 said:

I find this "back to basics" to be a healthy reset.

Nov 2, 2020 7:01:11 GMT bjd said:

I do feel rather sorry for the sellers of marigolds and those red flowers this year. It doesn't look as though they are getting much business.

And perhaps that dark green pottery you show is not specific to Day of the Dead, but I really like it.

Nov 2, 2020 13:22:06 GMT casimira said:

The flower vendor in the second group of photos clearly looks disgruntled and unhappy. She also is not wearing a mask so, one can really see her facial expression.

Nov 2, 2020 14:09:16 GMT breeze said:

I've often had the funny feeling that I was being jostled by crowds.

Nov 2, 2020 14:41:26 GMT cheerypeabrain said:

despite everything the spirit and traditions of the community are still there. Even if it is subdued.

I haven't quoted everyone, but I've certainly basked in everyones kind words ~ thank you all!

Your comments are rather interwoven, especially in the sense of feeling more able to gently enjoy the occasion without all the crowds. Being here, that is both a blessing and a curse, as I do enjoy the lack of noise, but its absence indicates so much -- the restriction of movement, the necessary suppression of a joyful group event, and another blow to the economy, just to mention a few things. Yes, there are no brass bands pausing in front of my house in order to shoot off fireworks, but it's more of an ominous silence than a peaceful one.

Even though I am a fan of the happy excess of Muertos, I know this city relies too much on tourism and that the popularity of Day of the Dead could well wind up changing its character.

Bjd, my friend who is a plantsman came down from his closed-up village in order to sell potted marigolds. One of his sons, Victor, ran the business from their usual spot around the corner from my house, while his father ranged around the valley with the truck. I passed the business while out taking the pictures for this report and was delighted to see that no marigolds were left. Victor was extremely happy with their success, not least because they were getting ready to go home and celebrate there.
Re: the dark green pottery -- along with the toasty beige ware made in the same town (you can see it in the far right of the picture), that is the most common cookware in kitchens around here.

Casimira, that vendor is in her usual spot where she sells plants, potting soil, and produce. In the picture she is grabbing a bite to eat, while her daughter attends to customers. At other times she is masked, as are all the market vendors. As for her expression, she is a pleasant person, although never animated.

Again, thank you all for your generous enjoyment of this year's "Muertos Lite".

[mickthecactus]

So what do you do with jicama?

[kerouac2]

Do you ever buy marigolds at this time of year, Bixa? Either potted or in a bouquet? I'm only asking this while remembering that in the United States when I was little, people would buy a potted poinsettia at Christmas or a potted Easter lily in the spring to mark the period. I know that my mother did, perhaps not every year, but often enough to mark my memory.

[fumobici]

Thanks for serving up a colorful Muertos fix in spite of the situation. Still works.

[lugg]

So poignant Bixa . The crowds may not be there nor the usual explosion of extravaganza ,but still what a feast for the eyes and senses, maybe even more so in these grey times. I absolutely have loved reading this report and looking at your wonderful photos. It has really cheered me up on a day that I have found little to smile about. The photo of the indefatigable Fatima is especially lovely.

Thank you Bixa

[kerouac2]

I of course remember the magic of all of the visits to the cemeteries, and that is what I would miss the most if I were there this year.

[bixaorellana]

Nov 2, 2020 15:44:48 GMT mickthecactus said:

So what do you do with jicama?

Mick, it has a texture somewhat like that of a raw potato, and the taste is very mild & slightly sweet. It's often served cut up alongside cut up carrots, both dressed with lime juice, a little ground cayenne, & salt. It's even better when sprinkled with lime and sal de gusano. One way I use them is as a substitute for water chestnuts. If you ever get your hands on one (or the seeds), you should know that it makes a nice vine with gorgeous blue flowers.

Nov 2, 2020 15:51:15 GMT kerouac2 said:

Do you ever buy marigolds at this time of year, Bixa? Either potted or in a bouquet?

Yes, sometimes I do, as the the sight of masses of them everywhere is very compelling. The idea that a bright pot of marigolds helps lead my departed loved ones to me is lovely as well.

Nov 2, 2020 16:18:20 GMT fumobici said:

Still works.

Doesn't it?!

[bixaorellana]

Oh, thank you so much lugg and kerouac2! I was hunting down the jícama information, so didn't see your kind posts.

Lugg, as you can imagine, I am hardly in the jolliest of spirits either, but seeing everyone bustling around the market getting ready for a beloved holiday did cheer me up. Today a friend sent me pictures of the altar at his house along with photos of his little boy dressed as a skeleton for his first Muertos. The little guy was accompanied by his dogs dressed as devils complete with horns. It made me feel included and happy.

Kerouac, maybe next time you come it will be for Muertos again. I'll wangle some invitations to home altars and of course there will be cemetery visits.

I should mention that I read in one of the local papers that cemeteries will be opened in sequence on all the Mondays in November, but only to families of the people interred there, although I can't imagine how they'll pull that off. Surely that does not include today, which would normally be the big day to visit cemeteries. Anyway, I reported on this custom of the Mondays in November here back in 2014 (reply #109).

[kerouac2]

In France the cemeteries have remained open this time, particularly due to All Saints Day. But since the parks and gardens have remained open, it would have been ridiculous to close cemeteries like they did in March.

[lugg]

Nov 2, 2020 19:26:29 GMT bixaorellana said:

I am hardly in the jolliest of spirits either, but seeing everyone bustling around the market getting ready for a beloved holiday did cheer me up

So glad Bixa that you felt more upbeat... such crap times ...but fingers/ toes and everything crossed for some cause to celebrate within the next couple of days.

[bixaorellana]

Nov 2, 2020 19:29:25 GMT kerouac2 said:

it would have been ridiculous to close cemeteries like they did in March.

I imagine the cemeteries in France don't turn into the mob scene like some of the ones here can.

Nov 2, 2020 19:38:50 GMT lugg said:

fingers/ toes and everything crossed for some cause to celebrate within the next couple of days.

From your mouth (or keyboard) to God's ear!

[lugg]

Nov 2, 2020 19:29:25 GMT kerouac2 said:

In France the cemeteries have remained open

I really have no idea about that here in the UK - I suppose that comes from belonging to a family where cremation has been our method of disposal for the last 3 generations

[mickthecactus]

Bixa it was the latin name of jicama that caught my eye.

Can't imagine it would survive our weather though.