Oaxaca, Muertos 2021 ~ bits & snippets

[bixaorellana]

We are in a second year of covid-cancelled events for days of the dead. The city does seem to be less dead than expected, though, especially judging by the large unmasked crowd I ran into last night. I was in a cab, so no pictures of that, nor would I have willingly thrown myself into such an infection-potential fray.

We took a stroll on the 27th -- I with a view towards maybe getting a few worthy pics & the dogs because outsidewalkyaaywagwagwag.

Gorgeous afternoon light on the facade of this chocolate shop on Porfirio Díaz ~





A little further down the street, the liquor store features a rather sweet, granny-ish skeleton ~





Passing from García Vigil through the plazuela of Carmen Alto, we encounter preparations in progress ~







It's charming how in this day & age pretend portraits where you stick your face in a cut-out still attract people ~



Hung out to dry ~



The archway at the Alcalá end of the plazuela has an all dressed up & no place to go aspect at this point ~

[/div]

[casimira]

I was so hoping you would capture a few shots of this year's observance. And, of course, you did!

Despite the throngs of visitors who visit each year, this year (as well as last year), native traditions will always survive just as they do here during Carnival.

I have 2 friends who are presently in Mexico and another in Guatemala. Both have reported a similar more low keyed celebration.

Thanks for capturing the essence of what remains and how traditions don't die hard no matter what. 

[fumobici]

The autumn light sure makes marigolds pop. Awaiting more.

[bixaorellana]

Thank you, Casimira! Where in Mexico are your friends? I guess I need to get to Guatemala one of these days for their Muertos celebration.

Continuing on from the above, we're now in front of Santo Domingo.
I wanted the dogs to get closer to the Agave for size comparison, but they were having none of it. Here are the maguey anyway ~

Heading back towards home ~



Love that light!



We're now at Plaza Cruz de Piedra, which you all have seen many times in my reports & which features in Nacho Libre.

Friends of mine have an airbnb here, which is beautifully adorned ~





Even the dead have to check their messages ~



A dance rehearsal was going on in front of the stone cross. A dead version of Cantando en la Lluvia?



A glance northward through the arquitos toward the mountains of San Felipe ~

[bixaorellana]

Hi Fumobici, and thank you! I didn't see your comment until after I finished the post above. I think I might be able to muster up some more marigolds for you.

Sunday the 31st I had a wonderful treat. I met friends of my sister who are in town for a wedding, along with their son & his fiancée.
They are all the loveliest people imaginable and, after lunch at Mercado de la Merced, we walked around town ~









Two immensely talented American musicians react to a Oaxacan brass band playing in front of a restaurant ~





We nipped into the cathedral. This is the chapel of El Señor del Rayo ~

[bixaorellana]

Leaving that very pleasant company, I wend my way back home, snapping as I go ~











Almost home. Here's my market ~

That's it up to the end of the 31st. I didn't take any pictures on All Saints Day, but went out this evening, All Souls Day, to see what I could see.
Those pictures are still on the camera. Let me check them out & I'll host & post any that are worthy.

[kerouac2]

Definitely less exuberant than what you have shown us in years past. But it's also quite nice not to be overrun by massive crowds.

[tod2]

I am dumstruck by the beauty of the arrangements - such care and attention has been given. The colours are just magnificent. Those pooches are darling!

[bixaorellana]

Unfortunately, there are crowds. There aren't the throngs of normal years, but to see any is disconcerting.

The doggies say Thanks, Aunt Tod!
Tod, the care taken with ephemeral things here, such as arrangement of produce in the markets, never ceases to amaze me.

Yesterday evening I went out to revisit the site of some of the opening pictures of this thread -- the Plaza del Carmen Alto. Those first pictures were from the 27th, when things were just being set up. Let's see how they progressed.

Ambling past the pulquería around the corner from my house ~







Entering the plaza. Those marigold wreaths were a thing this year ~











The photo boards are getting some use ~

[kerouac2]

Even diminished by the pandemic, it is still a magical time of year!

(I have always hated the concept of photo boards since I already am not a fan of seeing a photo of myself, and this just makes it worse. But I fully understand people who like that sort of concept, poor things. After all, it is sort of the origin of selfies.)

[bixaorellana]

Hunger strike in front of Santo Domingo to protest the threatened cutting down of 1500 trees to widen Avenue Símbolos Patrias. Apparently, as of October 31st, the trees now will not be cut down.

The southern edge of the space in front of Santo Domingo & the beginning of crowds ~



The little skinny plaza in front of Sto. Domingo. This is where the big shiny metal OAXACA sign used to be ~





There were a couple of these giant, rather ugly Katrinas set up on Alcalá. We're looking south towards the Zocaló ~



Her face ~



It was a shock to get right up on this doll and then realize that it's a real, live child ~



He wasn't the only Chucky with this schtick ~

[/div]

[kerouac2]

Jeez, the kids are creepy. I bet they absolutely loved doing it.

Now that those Katrinas have been created, they will probably be back every year, like it or not.

[bixaorellana]

Death & the Maiden ~











Yikes! We won't be reaching the zocaló, as I have no intention of braving this crowd. I turned towards home here ~



The big lady is at her post as she always is. This year she's settled on a Spanish look for Muertos ~



That's it for this year. Momento mori, y'all!

[kerouac2]

Thank you for giving us a glimpse of Muertos anyway, because I think that quite a few of us are in withdrawal.

[whatagain]

A little bit like our carnival byt i don't know why, i am not in the mood.

[tod2]

Thank you for presenting this fine report and Momento Mori to you too!

[mich64]

Your beautiful photos/thread are very much appreciated Bixa. The subdued decorations seem more exquisite such as you show around the doorway of the air bnb and I just love the muted color scheme of the doorway in your last reply, photos #4 and #5. Also love the brillant orange marigolds in reply #3, photo #5 and reply #4, photo #3. I am surprised with the amount of people who went out, but also nice to see how many wore masks.

Your puppies look happy and well!

[bixaorellana]

Thanks to you all for the kind comments!

re: withdrawal / lack of festive mood ~ I second those emotions. Since a big part of days of the dead consists of the home altars and family's observance of the holiday, it's rather disgusting that the ra-cha-cha tourist aspect was allowed to go on. Yes, there was lip service given to no mass events, parades, etc., but you can see from the pictures how that played out in reality. Luckily, residents here are dismissive of the "traffic light" designations of covid level. How very odd that we went to the desirable green light just before this touristic time of year.

Arf, wag ~ Hi Aunt Mich!

[fumobici]

Amazing how much obvious artistic talent exists in what is really by population a rather small city.

[bixaorellana]

That's a good observation, Fumobici. There is so much in the way of traditional crafts here -- weaving, embroidery, pottery, along with other creative outlets such as all the music schools up in the mountains. Even so, the desire to create spills out all over in the graphic arts, in design, contemporary music, etc.

Speaking of music, this might interest you in particular, Fumobici, as you're all the way over there on the west coast & you seem to get down to California occasionally. This is the website of the two musicians seen dancing across the street in reply #4, 5th picture: www.royaljellyjive.com/

[lugg]

Sorry for my late reply - I was in the middle of posting a couple of days ago when my power went. Anyway just to say how much I enjoyed your post. It is so good to see life returning to some semblance of normality, although I quite understand your hesitancy ( re Covid crowds.) As ever I love the vibrancy of this event, the colours are always so powerful, but I too especially admired the decorations around the door frame towards the end of your thread. What detail .... they must have taken so much work and many hours to create. I imagine those kids enjoyed the shock of passersby.

[bixaorellana]

A late, but heartfelt thank-you, Lugg. It was quite lovely to be able to observe and hear the reactions of a group of first-timers this year. Kinda made it all new again.