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Post by nycgirl on Mar 21, 2023 17:02:54 GMT
Thanks for the book recommendation, bjd.
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Post by nycgirl on Mar 21, 2023 17:28:41 GMT
Fortunately, I had other options! Horses are available to rent for 300 pesos round-trip ($16 usd). Worth it. I saddled up and headed back up the mountain. Much better. My only regret is not doing this from the very beginning. I got to relax while watching the butterflies flit to and fro in the dappled sunlight. Astride my trusty steed, I caught up and surpassed the hiking group in no time at all. I did feel a twinge of guilt as I saw my daughter's reproachful face. I waved good-bye while she receded in the distance...
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Post by mickthecactus on Mar 21, 2023 18:16:10 GMT
Smart!
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Post by bixaorellana on Mar 23, 2023 15:45:31 GMT
Oh my gosh ~~ finally catching up here. (absence due to no internet + company, etc.) I backtracked to the last post I'd seen, way back at the beginning. Love the shots of NYCutie gamely trying -- & enjoying!-- new foods, taking in the sights, & posing blasely.
I'm blown away by your deep dive into the spectacle & culture of lucha libre, & was even more amazed when you said that was at the end of your first full day in CDMX. You all don't fool around!
Can't wait to see the rest of the butterfly visit pictures. You were smart to realize that the altitude was getting to you, & a clever good sport to find an alternate way to the sanctuary. Reproachful looks aside, it was thoughtful of you to keep from getting ill/missing the experience, thus allowing others to enjoy it fully.
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Post by nycgirl on Mar 24, 2023 3:48:32 GMT
Just kidding! I pulled over and invited my daughter to hop in the saddle with me. It was a tight fit, but manageable. She was so thrilled. As we clip-clopped along the path, the number of butterflies wafting through the air increased, and so did our excitement. We came to the point of the trail that was too steep for the horse, so we had to dismount and hike rest of the way. At this point, I decided to say goodbye to our guide and horse; even though I paid for a return trip, I figured I could handle a downhill hike on the way back. We waited for the hiking group to catch up, which didn't take long, and then followed our guide deeper into the forest. Soon, we came to the place where the oyamel trees were dripping with hundreds of thousands of monarchs. It was an amazing sight. As I watched them, I thought about how incredible it is that some of these individuals actually flew all the way from New York like me, except they used only their wings and air currents. In the spring, this generation will fly back to the southern U.S., where they will mate, lay eggs on milkweed, then die. The next generation will fly a few hundred miles before finding a patch of milkweed and repeating the cycle. In will take four or five generations for the monarchs to make it all the way to Canada. My daughter had a butterfly land on her, much to her delight. It calmly stayed on her hand for a long time. Perhaps it was enjoying the warm rays of the sun, or perhaps it was injured. But it stayed a long time until I made my daughter to say good-bye and gently coax it onto a tree branch.
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Post by nycgirl on Mar 24, 2023 4:31:41 GMT
Hope you're enjoying time with your loved ones, Bixa.
I'm really pleased with how much we were able to pack into our one week. There's never enough time to see it all, though, as you know. I hope to go back one day.
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Post by kerouac2 on Mar 24, 2023 7:03:49 GMT
Wonderful butterfly photos. When I was little, we had hundreds of monarchs around the house, but now I haven't seen one for about 30 years. Obviously I am not living in the same place! There are none in most of Europe and only in southern Spain, I think (probably got blown off course during the migration).
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Post by mickthecactus on Mar 24, 2023 7:28:10 GMT
Great pictures! Thanks.
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Post by fumobici on Mar 24, 2023 14:21:26 GMT
Amazing! This has been a super report, I'll bet she remembers this trip forever.
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Post by nycgirl on Mar 25, 2023 22:31:24 GMT
Thanks, everyone! K, where did you grow up? Fumo, I hope she remembers it. So far she can't seem to retain anything that happened more than a year ago. But maybe this will be the year that her long-term memories kick in.
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Post by kerouac2 on Mar 26, 2023 1:53:46 GMT
K, where did you grow up? Mississippi Gulf Coast. It was probably their first stop after a huge stretch of water.
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Post by nycgirl on Mar 28, 2023 16:32:26 GMT
The butterflies have everything they need here in the reserve. The oyamel fir trees create a microclimate that keeps the temperatures ideal for the monarchs, not too hot or too cold. There are clear streams running through the forest for the monarchs to drink from. While in Mexico, the monarchs drink water but do not feed, instead relying on fat reserves they stored from drinking nectar during the migration. This migrating generation emerges from the pupa in a state called reproductive diapause; their sexual development is delayed so they can focus their energy on migrating instead of reproducing. In late February and March, they end their diapause and are ready to mate and lay eggs as they migrate north. As you hike, it’s very important to watch your step because some butterflies lie on the path and aren’t inclined to move out of the way. Like these two; at first glance, this appears to be a butterfly standing on top of a dead butterfly, but they are actually a mating pair, too engrossed to notice when people stepped dangerously close to them. Other individuals also sat immobile on the ground for some reason. Fortunately, my daughter hurried around and warned people who seemed about to step on them. This was a sad sight. This poor butterfly was dying because most of its thorax and abdomen had been eaten by a bird. Although monarch caterpillars and butterflies are poisonous to most predators, thanks to the toxins they acquire from consuming milkweed, some predators avoid the wings but eat the bodies. And apparently certain birds, such as orioles and grosbeaks, as well as some insects and spiders, are able to stomach eating the monarch despite their poisonous defenses. When exploring nature, there is often brutality even in the most beautiful places. You have to take the good with the bad.
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Post by kerouac2 on Mar 28, 2023 16:42:32 GMT
I seem to recall reading that a lot of the monarchs die of exhaustion after their migration, which would explain why a lot of them are just lying on the ground.
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Post by nycgirl on Mar 28, 2023 20:50:25 GMT
That makes sense, if the winds aren't in their favor, they would have to spend more energy than they can afford. There are so many other factors that could work against them too, such as climate change and reduced food supplies.
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Post by nycgirl on Mar 28, 2023 22:31:41 GMT
All too soon, it was time to depart. Because there is a steady influx of groups waiting to go up the mountain, we couldn't linger as long as I would have liked. But I enjoyed the hike down (much easier than going uphill) and was glad that I didn't keep the horse for the return trip so I could take my time. A sweet little local boy who took a liking to my daughter, despite the language and age difference. My daughter, being a shopper, had spotted the souvenir tables as soon as we arrived, but I told her she had to wait until after the hike to get something. So as soon as we left the trail, she made a beeline to the vendors. I tried to steer her toward a butterfly necklace or something related to remind her of this place, but she went with an amethyst crystal instead. I got a printed canvas tote. My sister-in-law got this vibrant embroidered poncho. There were so many beautiful handmade goods to choose from. My daughter obligingly tried on this adorable poncho at my request, but, alas, she didn't want it. We said good-bye to the butterfly reserve and headed back to Mexico City. On the way, we stopped to eat at a little restaurant with sweeping views of the valley. The evening was spent dropping off the car, washing up, and getting another bite to eat. And that's a wrap on Day 2. It was a tiring but thrilling day.
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Post by bixaorellana on Mar 29, 2023 1:46:32 GMT
The butterflies are of course absolutely magical. But even more magical are the pictures of your daughter transfixed by the butterfly who chose to rest with her. Factoid: Monarch butterflies living west of the Rocky Mountains overwinter in central coastal California. Monarchs which live east of the Rocky Mountains travel to central Mexico for the winter. I love your little sweetie's thoughtful pose as she contemplates her purchase. And that's a great bag you got. The woman's/girl's poncho has a very long history.
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Post by nycgirl on Mar 29, 2023 3:18:22 GMT
Thanks, Bixa! She really lucked out, I'm so glad she got to have that special moment.
I once attempted to see the monarchs at one of their overwintering locations in Monterrey, CA. This was in December so they should have been there, but for some reason there wasn't even one in sight. Part of me was worried that the Mexico sanctuary would also be a bust, but thankfully that was not the case.
Thanks for the info on the quechquemitl, very interesting.
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Post by nycgirl on Mar 29, 2023 3:28:17 GMT
On Day 3, we set to explore the Centro Histórico (historic center) in downtown Mexico City. We took an Uber most of the way there, but when we couldn't get through the dense traffic to reach our destination, we decided to get out and walk the rest of the way. It seems we stumbled upon the formal dresses district. We saw a lovely array of wedding, Confirmation, and quinceañera gowns on display, their crystal embellishments scintillating in the morning light. The streets were beginning to hum with life. The buildings in the area were well-maintained while still retaining their antique charm. I learned later that this restaurant, one of Mexico City's oldest, opened in 1860 and is housed in a 16th century convent. We took a bathroom break at one of the public WC's. They only cost a few pesos to use but they were... not great. When my daughter saw that there were no toilet seats, she flat-out refused to go. Oh well, they'll do in a pinch.
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Post by bixaorellana on Mar 29, 2023 4:03:22 GMT
You really took outstanding pictures! I can't help but think of #47 as "Cinderella & her stepsisters". Your photo of the guy with the hand truck is out of this world -- love it.
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Post by nycgirl on Mar 29, 2023 16:51:14 GMT
Thanks! The people-watching was so fun. I'm embarrassed to take pictures of people, so I didn't get as many passerby pics as I would have liked.
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Post by bjd on Mar 29, 2023 17:51:37 GMT
I'm assuming the word 'donceles" on the WC sign means women. Interesting because "donzelle" is an old French word for a young woman.
I like your first dress picture -- with the very fancy dress on one side and the young woman dressed in normal clothes right beside.
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Post by nycgirl on Mar 29, 2023 20:00:57 GMT
Thanks!
I looked it up just now and apparently "donceles" means "maidens." My Spanish is very rusty, but even on my best day, I've never known that word. That's why I like the bathroom signs with pictures of dresses or pants. They may be old-fashioned, but they're very helpful.
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Post by whatagain on Mar 29, 2023 20:08:31 GMT
Lovely pics, lovely small girl.
I think we had lunch at that hosteria.
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Post by nycgirl on Mar 29, 2023 20:40:44 GMT
After a bit of walking, we reached the area I was looking for. A little history about this place: According to legend, a prophecy foretold that the Aztec capital would be at the spot where an eagle would be seen perched on a cactus, devouring a snake. Led by their priest-chief Tenoch, the Aztecs settled on an island in the center of a lake. It was here that Tenoch supposedly had the very vision they were looking for, and they founded the city of Tenochtitlan on that spot, which today is Mexico City. Here is a model showing Lake Texcoco and the land that is now Mexico City as it looked then. Tenochtitlan revolved around a sacred compound of impressive buildings. Chief among these was Templo Mayor, the political and spiritual center of the Aztec (or “Mexica,” as they called themselves) empire. Construction of Templo Mayor began in 1325 and it was continuously expanded and renovated for the next 200 years. It was here that ritual sacrifices were made on the altars of Tlaloc (the rain god) and Huitzilopochtli (the Sun god and god of war), located on top of the main pyramid. The Aztecs believed that Huitzilopochtli needed a steady diet of human hearts to fuel his passage across the sky every day, and they readily obliged him, sacrificing thousands of victims each year. Here is a model of what Templo Mayor, located in the place where I am now standing, looked like then. By 1519, when Hernán Cortés and his Spanish conquistadors arrived in Tenochtitlan, the population was an estimated 200,000-300,000. To put it in perspective, London under King Henry VIII around the same time only had an estimated 50,000-100,000 people. The conquistadors were stunned by the sight of this huge city of stone towers and temples on the lake. Some described it as an enchanted city, others compared it to Venice. It was a fair comparison; Tenochtitlan was laced with canals through which canoe traffic passed. The city was a cluster of floating islands called chinampas, created by the indigenous people to provide arable and residential land. This is an artist’s rendition of what it may have looked like. In 1521, Cortés and his men swiftly conquered Tenochtitlan, aided by superior weaponry and by the Tlaxcalan army, bitter rivals of the Aztecs. Within three years, the Spanish (and the many diseases they brought with them) conquered the rest of Mexico. The land was renamed New Spain, Aztec temples and cities were destroyed, and new cities, palaces, and cathedrals were built, sometimes directly over a fallen temple. The ruins of Templo Mayor lay buried for centuries until 1978, when electrical workers dug up an eight-ton stone-disc carving of the Aztec goddess of the moon. This prompted the demolition of four city blocks of colonial buildings and a major excavation of the site. The base of Temple Mayor was discovered, as well as many fascinating artifacts. Today you can walk around the ruins of Templo Mayor for free, and for a small fee view the collection of pre-Hispanic pieces housed in the Templo Mayor museum. We decided not to visit this time because there was a lot we wanted to see. Hopefully there will be a next time.
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Post by bixaorellana on Mar 29, 2023 22:06:08 GMT
I'm assuming the word 'donceles" on the WC sign means women. Interesting because "donzelle" is an old French word for a young woman. Hmmm. Since "doncel" would be a young man, supposedly that would be the men's room. Doncella is a young woman/maiden. Maybe the sign makers were trying to be ritzy & indicate ladies' room but didn't get it right. www.wordreference.com/es/en/translation.asp?spen=doncelPoor NYCDaughter -- I identify with her wanting a toilet seat, especially since she is not tall enough yet to hover. Mexico has a complicated relationship with toilet seats, apparently considering them an optional accessory. Even in real estate pictures for upscale properties, the toilet lid &/or seat and lid will be up. I love models & wish I'd seen that one when I was in Mexico City.
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Post by nycgirl on Mar 29, 2023 23:03:59 GMT
Huh, looks like Google Translate steered me wrong.
I looked up the Templo Mayor ruins later and apparently I missed out on a lot simply because I didn't realize I could walk around some more. Oh well, next time. I do feel like the Centro Historico needs two days to fully do it justice.
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Post by nycgirl on Mar 31, 2023 1:55:29 GMT
Walking around the old center, you notice many of the buildings look somewhat off-kilter. That's because Tenochtitlan was built on a low island in Lake Texcoco, which the Spanish drained using drains and aqueducts, leaving a soft and powdery subsoil. The buildings erected on top of this soil have been slowly sinking over the centuries. One of the affected buildings was the Metropolitan Cathedral. At one point, it was on the verge of collapse. Raising the worst-affected part, the apse, wasn't possible; instead, soil was removed from beneath the main facade to lower it, so the whole building would be relatively level. It is currently considered out of danger. We went inside, but unfortunately the nave was roped off was pictures weren't allowed because a service was underway at the time. Anyone interested in viewing the ornate golden interior should visit this excellent group post. The Metropolitan Cathedral was built on the site of Templo Mayor, with stones from the demolished temples, and the conquered indigenous people were introduced to Christianity, sometimes forcibly. But some ancient traditions have survived to this day. For example, there are people in traditional Aztec garb who, for a tip, will perform a spiritual cleansing ritual. It appears to involves herbs, smoke, and blowing a long, sonorous note from a conch. I couldn't find much about it; if anyone has information to share, I'd love to hear it.
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Post by nycgirl on Apr 3, 2023 15:40:48 GMT
As always, we made time for a little souvenir shopping. We walked by the Zócalo, Mexico City's main square, where the huge flag of Mexico is ceremoniously raised and lowered each day. The Mexican coats of arm on the flag pays homage to the Aztec legend mentioned before, of an eagle perched on a cactus while devouring a snake. More on the Zócalo in a bit. First, time for a break. We stopped at the Gran Hotel Ciudad, an art noveau gem that originally opened as a department store in 1899. Today it's a 60-room luxury hotel with a terraced restaurant overlooking the Zócalo. Its Parisian influences are clear; as soon as you step inside, you walk beneath a massive Louis XV-style chandelier into an elegant lobby. The pièce de résistance is the splendid Tiffany stained glass ceiling, which was imported from France in 1908. I approached the receptionist about going to the restaurant, but unfortunately, we arrived during the busy lunch hour and they were full. Oh well, we took a moment to admire the architectural details and rest on their plush red sofas before we went on our way.
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Post by nycgirl on Apr 4, 2023 14:02:34 GMT
We found another restaurant that wasn't as beautiful but did have the sweeping view of the Zócalo that I was looking for. The official name of the Zócalo is Plaza de la Constitución, but people began calling it the Zócalo, meaning "base," in the 19th century, when plans to erect a major monument went unrealized and only the base was built. The base is long gone, but the nickname stuck. The border of the plaza is dominated by the Metropolitan Cathedral and the Palacio Nacional, which houses the offices of the President of Mexico and a wonderful collection of Diego Rivera murals. (As a fan of Rivera, I wanted to really wanted to visit, but the entrance was blocked and I was uncertain if it was even open or not. Oh well, next time.) Some of the other buildings include the Supreme Court, the former city hall, and the former archbishop's palace. The side where I am is mostly occupied by hotels, restaurants, and shops. It was getting hot at this point in the day, so I cooled off with a sangria and vodka. For lunch, I had an an octopus, flambéed tableside while I "oohed" and "aahed." It was flavored with anise, which I found to be very unusual, but tasty. A mariachi came by, but she was more interested in posing with her hat than playing music. I didn't give her a tip.
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Post by bixaorellana on Apr 4, 2023 14:22:06 GMT
You are going to start a rush on visits to Mexico City with this wonderful coverage! Of course the rest of us won't be able to have our own personal mariachi. Love your crisp photo of the zócalo, followed by the dreamily gorgeous one of the drink with said zócalo in the background. Is that drink a specialty of the restaurant? How was it? You asked about the cleansing rituals (great pictures, incidentally!). Here is some information: morenitaexperience.com/blog/2019/7/4/mexplaining-by-morenita-02
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