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Post by tod2 on Apr 20, 2014 8:49:25 GMT
As tourists we come to Paris to see its beauty and the other 50% of the time is spent looking for somewhere to eat. There is no shortage there but it can be a costly experience if you are on a budget. It can also become 'just another bistro' with nothing different about the menu or waiters. I thought I would like to find out about some of the more off the beaten track places to make a visit to Paris an un-touristy experience. If you have eaten at, or know of some out of the way or just a bit different to the usual French cafe`, I would love to hear about it. I found this place quite by accident when searching the internet for something else. It seems so different I just had to start a thread and see if others have some secret place up their sleeve! www.outandaboutinparis.com/2012/05/looking-for-different-kind-of-place-to.html
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Post by lagatta on Apr 20, 2014 11:17:27 GMT
I think I did a thread a while back on cafés et restaurants associatifs: there are many cafés and restaurants run by non-profit associations: Some are charitable (for many kinds of charities) and others exist to provide a low-cost, congenial place to eat and meet up for people in a neighbourhood. I did a "restaurant associatif" search, and La Madeleine was the first to pop up! Indeed, hard to find a cheap, decent meal in that area. www.bon-plan-party.fr/bon_plan_paris_detaille.php?id=350 Here's another one in the 14th! A very pretty one in the 9th, though a little more expensive: franciliensdemain.wordpress.com/2013/05/08/les-restaurants-associatifs-a-paris-1-tout-autre-chose/La Commune, in the 12th (Aligre): franciliensdemain.wordpress.com/2013/05/15/le-phenomene-des-restaurants-associatifs-episode-2-la-commune-2/www.smartertravel.com/photo-galleries/editorial/europes-best-hidden-eats.html?id=509&photo=49057Not the same thing as "restaurants solidaires" or "restaurants du coeur", which are for indigent people, though some make a point of having a pleasant space and good service. Madeleine is an example of a "restaurant associatif" funding a "restaurant solidaire". La Veilleuse de Belleville calls itself a "bar associatif" but evidently also serves food: laveilleusedebelleville.tumblr.com/www.terre.tv/fr/4506_la-veilleuse-de-belleville video clip www.youphil.com/fr/article/05492-la-veilleuse-de-belleville-un-bistrot-cooperatif?ypcli=ano Au Coin de Malte (rue de Malte, in the 11th) www.restoaparis.com/fiche-restaurant-paris/au-coin-de-malte.htmlOf course the quality at such places varies... Many of the sites mention La Rôtisserie, but unfortunately that has closed, unless it has reopened?
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Post by bjd on Apr 20, 2014 12:05:05 GMT
In the 11th on rue de Montreuil there are two places: at 40 rue de Montreuil, L'Aumonière de Bacchus, where my daughter has been several times. She says the food is very good and it's not too expensive: plus.google.com/+BISTROTLAUMONIEREdeBacchusParis/about?hl=en (their website doesn't seem to want to work today) but here is a photograph of their menu: plus.google.com/+BISTROTLAUMONIEREdeBacchusParis/about?hl=enand across the street and a bit further down (no 35) Petit Panisse, on the corner of rue Titon, with red checked tablecloths and regional cooking. Good and cheap, with lots of people there at lunch time. Closest metro stop is Faidherbe-Chaligny. And there is also a Vietnamese place called Paris-Hanoi (a small one at 74 rue de Charonne (m° Bastille or Ledru Rollin), and a bigger one in the 20th I think. But there is always a lineup to get in-- good food and cheap. Here is the menu: www.parishanoi.fr/en/restaurants/paris-hanoi-charonne
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Post by lagatta on Apr 20, 2014 13:15:18 GMT
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Post by tod2 on Apr 20, 2014 13:36:16 GMT
Thank you both for your great input - lots to look into! I will try and add some finds of my own shortly.
bjd - In 2005 I wrote a trip report on Fodors - "Deciding to try out another of Dave-in-Paris's suggestions I take the metro to Faideherbe-Chaligny and walk up Rue de Montreuil looking for La Ravigote, number 41. I find Le Bar des Artisans at number 40" So, it seems a name change has occurred. When I had lunch at Bistro du Peintre I walked down rue de Charonne especially to find the Vietnamese place 'Paris-Hanoi'. Another one of Dave's tips for a cheap meal. Not really a sit down place unless they had tables in the back.
Lagatta - During our last trip to Paris we stayed around the corner from rue de Malte. As we exited Oberkampf metro one day I remember two Jewish men dressed in black with curls asking me where rue de Malte was, and I could actually show them! We most likely walked past Au Coin du Malte several times in the week we were in the area.
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Post by mich64 on Apr 20, 2014 14:02:02 GMT
I am going to enjoy taking some time this week to go through these links!
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Post by bjd on Apr 20, 2014 14:09:45 GMT
Tod -- Paris-Hanoi is a sit-down place -- that's what the line is for. You can also call for take-out, in which case you just go in and pick up your food. There are tables not in the back (which is where the kitchen is) but very close together all over the front of the restaurant.
I see that Le Petit Panisse has raised their prices and got rid of the tablecloths. I went a few years ago and a main + dessert were 12€. But it still looks like a nice place.
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Post by tod2 on Apr 20, 2014 15:34:25 GMT
Thanks for the info on Paris-Hanoi bjd - When I went past it was closed so I guess didn't get the right impression so I'm glad you've updated me!
I've spent a pleasant afternoon visiting all the links you guys gave me. Can't wait to get more!
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Post by Deleted on Apr 20, 2014 15:36:21 GMT
The restaurant at the Russian conservatory has always been one of the more interesting secret addresses in Paris. In recent years, it has gone a bit more upscale while still remaining reasonable for an authentic Russian meal. www.lacantinerusse.com/
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Post by lagatta on Apr 20, 2014 16:03:55 GMT
That is another category I was looking for; canteens and cafeterias - not chains like Flunch or Casino, but connected to some kind of institution but open to the public; often not announcing that fact. I once had a list but it would be terribly out of date. Museum cafés can also be interesting as a setting, but several of them have become very expensive and "chef-driven". Here is a little site on "restos pas chers": www.restos-pas-chers.fr/ I can make NO recommendations as to their quality; of course check on other sites to get a better idea for any specific restaurant that interests you. A few more: www.timeout.fr/paris/restaurant/pas-cher This is from "time out" so the article may also exist in English. Our friend Jazz started several threads on eating and sleeping in Paris on a budget.
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Post by fumobici on Apr 20, 2014 17:55:32 GMT
Thanks for the tips in the 11th-12th. I may well be able to put them to use next week. I'll try to find more worth passing on here walking the neighborhood.
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Post by lagatta on Apr 20, 2014 19:06:16 GMT
Are you only travelling to Paris, or also to Italy? If you are going to Perugia I'd love to know if there is anything new and interesting, next time I travel there.
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Post by fumobici on Apr 20, 2014 21:09:56 GMT
I'll be mostly in Italy but I'll also be in Amsterdam for a few days to take in the first koningsdag which will be next Saturday, then to Paris for a few days and on to Italy for two weeks to visit family. On the return I'll again spend a few days in Paris and finally a couple days in Reykjavik to see an old friend and because I've never been. I'll probably visit Perugia at least once as I've got a thing for it and it is very accessible from Anghiari where I'll be staying. Hard for me to imagine much new there since my last visit, I'm actually rather hoping nothing has changed at all!
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Post by Deleted on Apr 20, 2014 21:36:52 GMT
We're just hoping that your camera has an adequate memory card.
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Post by htmb on Apr 20, 2014 21:46:38 GMT
Yes, fumobici. It would be wonderful to see photos and hear about your trip. Sounds like you've got lots of interesting places to visit.
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Post by bixaorellana on Apr 20, 2014 22:06:36 GMT
Oh, Fumobici, that sounds like the loveliest trip imaginable -- different places, but at a leisurely pace. We're just hoping that your camera has an adequate memory card. Ho ho, you know perfectly well he's carrying an extra card & keeping an extra battery charged as well. Everyone on anyport does that.
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Post by fumobici on Apr 20, 2014 23:50:13 GMT
We're just hoping that your camera has an adequate memory card. I'm taking two cameras, my Elph has a 32GB card and my 18 buck 'cardboard' one has a 16GB in it. I don't think the 32 has ever been even half full but you can always move the pictures to another drive, erase the card and start over. The batteries run out waaaaaay before the card gets full. I've got two back-up batteries for the Elph but none for the GE, so I guess that'll just be back-up or shoot 'til it dies and stow. I've found that three fully charged batteries is *just* enough for a full day of photo taking. I take tons and delete most of them right away once I get a chance to see them on a proper monitor. We haven't done a tech-y photography thread here have we?
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Post by questa on Apr 21, 2014 0:29:36 GMT
Fumobuci, I am taking 2 to Tibet
#1 is my faithful Nikon Coolpix 4800 with cards to 12G and 4 batteries in varying stages of life. Can't get batteries for it now, it seems.
The other is Canon PowerShot sx280hs...bought last year and I hate it. I don't need WiFi or GPS or the hundreds of bells and whistles that are frankly wasted on a dinosaur like I. Batteries (2) can't last a day (GPS off)and controls v. fiddly for my hands. The instruction manual was not a paper one you could stuff in the case but a computer disc running to 299 pages!
I also take lots of pics in the day then after dinner is 'culling time' when about 10% survive the first cut.
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Post by bjd on Apr 21, 2014 6:53:42 GMT
The problem I find with the "first cut" in the evening is that pics look okay or in focus on the little camera screen, then when you get home and see them on a larger computer screen, they are often fuzzy or uninteresting. So they take up space on the card for nothing. Mind you, I have never run out of card space, but have had batteries run out in the middle of the afternoon.
The latest camera I bought has a battery pack rather than a small battery so it usually lasts all day and I haven't had to buy a back-up one.
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Post by mossie on Apr 21, 2014 7:16:35 GMT
Although I have had a digital camera since 2001 I am still sparing on shooting, old habits learnt using a 12 shot roll film die hard. When I am out as soon as I get an opportunity I review what I have and delete the poor stuff. If away from home I have an iPad and download onto that and another review, although I don't delete the card. Finally at home the card is downloaded to the computer and final screening and deletions can be done. There is still a lot of rubbish on my hard drive but haven't the energy now to sort it out.
I only use one camera, a Lumix TZ40 which has a nice long zoom but is small and simple. 99% of shots are done using the automatic setting and I always carry spare memory cards and a charged spare battery.
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Post by tod2 on Apr 21, 2014 7:31:43 GMT
Fumobici - You have brought back wonderful memories of Koningsdag for me! We got out of Amsterdam and spent it in the Keukenhof Gardens. Absolutely fabulous - lots of people wearing orange - hats, feather boas, and clothing. The huge organ played out merry tunes and the sun shone out of a clear blue sky - Whew! was is HOT!
Please bring back some Paris eating experiences - good or bad!
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