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Post by bixaorellana on Aug 25, 2015 17:06:06 GMT
Before my trip to Palermo I came across a cooking/art tv program that showcased the white splendor of an oratory in a church there. I set out one Sunday to see it and arrived at Santa Cita, the large, empty church that was supposed to house it. As I walked through the tall deserted space, I could hear Mass being celebrated somewhere, but saw nothing up at the altar. Eerily, I could also hear the murmur of a group of people praying, also invisibly. Finally I arrived at a side altar to see that indeed Mass was going on attended by about a dozen people. (I later realized that the sounds came from skinny speakers skilfully hidden along the walls of the main church.) Since I'd rudely stumbled in, I immediately sat down & put my camera away. This was difficult because the sight of that very small but magnificent chapel had me itching to record it. My patience was rewarded because after Mass the sacristan allowed me to go right up to the altar and take pictures while he put things away. I realized it was not the space I'd come to see, as this one was all rich and colorful stonework. This was the "... Capella del Rosario, with its polychrome marquetry and intricate lace-like stuccowork. The sculpted reliefs here are by Gioacchino Vitaliano." source
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Post by bixaorellana on Aug 25, 2015 18:11:12 GMT
Left and right walls, either side of altar ~Above the altar ~
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Post by bixaorellana on Aug 25, 2015 18:20:59 GMT
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Post by bjd on Aug 25, 2015 18:43:41 GMT
Seeing all this totally over-the-top decoration helps me understand the style of Sicilian/Calabrese immigrants style in Toronto when I was growing up. Those who weren't dressed in black, of course.
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Post by bixaorellana on Aug 25, 2015 18:52:33 GMT
The gentleman generously allowed me to take a few pictures, although he was obviously ready to go. He explained that the church had been badly bombed in WWII, which explained its plainness and the damaged paintings. The marble chancel arch is by Antonello Gagini.When I left the sacristan explained to me how to get to the door that gives access to the Oratory of the Rosary, the white delight I'd originally come to see, but that wouldn't be open until the next day. On the way out I admired a small elaborate alcove and the lovely patio ~
Beautiful old tiles ~
Stay tuned for bunches of big bouncing Baroque!
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Post by mossie on Aug 25, 2015 18:57:27 GMT
Absolute overkill Bixa, this marvellous medieval workmanship is "riches beyond compare"
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Post by bixaorellana on Aug 25, 2015 19:47:49 GMT
Entering the Oratory of the Rosary from the altar end through a narrow door, I don't think anyone manages to suppress an ahhh of surprise and delight when confronted with the ebullient work of stucco artist Giacomo Serpotta.
Moving now to the other end and looking back to the altar ~
Virgin of the Rosary by Carlo Maratta, 1690
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Post by bixaorellana on Aug 25, 2015 20:04:54 GMT
A bit more of the altar before I go on to dazzle your eyes with whiteness ~Judith's left arm really bothers me!
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Post by htmb on Aug 25, 2015 20:11:32 GMT
Amazing photos of incredible spaces!
The whiteness sure does set off the beautiful paintings.
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Post by bixaorellana on Aug 25, 2015 20:27:02 GMT
You can view the panorama at full size here. The wall is not curved -- that is a distortion caused by the camera's panorama function.
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Post by htmb on Aug 25, 2015 20:30:26 GMT
I remember you raving about all this whiteness. It looks like some sort of sculpted confection.
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Post by bixaorellana on Aug 25, 2015 21:33:55 GMT
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Post by bixaorellana on Aug 25, 2015 22:06:20 GMT
Whoops! I had already reclined on this bench to take the photo above before I noticed that it was really fancy & that there were small signs telling people to stay off of it.
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Post by bixaorellana on Aug 25, 2015 22:40:37 GMT
Before we leave the Oratory, lets take a look at the lovely fabric covering the bottom part of the walls ~We'll now pass through one of the two doors at the back of the Oratory, which can be seen in the first photo in Reply #6 ~There is a rude name for this kind of a grin ~This was the headquarters of the prestigious Fellowship of the Most Holy Rosary. This type of confraternity is made up of "laymen who do special works of piety and services for their particular churches." sourceView out the window ~And back outside, with a last glance at the lovely old tiles ~I hope you all found this visit as delightful and surprising as I did.
If you are interested, the official cite ~ here ~ has more information and some truly excellent photographs, as the photographer was given full access and undoubtedly used a ladder to capture some images.
This beautifully researched and complete site gives explanations along with pictures of the various images throughout the Oratory.
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Post by bixaorellana on Aug 25, 2015 22:44:56 GMT
Mossie and Htmb -- thank you for your comments and attention! Sorry for not responding promptly, but all that white confection had me concentrating furiously to make a coherent thread without duplicates.
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Post by htmb on Aug 25, 2015 22:51:03 GMT
A fabulous thread, Bixa! Thanks for also posting another photo of the beautiful tile at the end.
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Post by questa on Aug 26, 2015 0:25:08 GMT
Completely overwhelming and so beautifully photographed and described.
Am I the only one who thinks, "Look at all that dusting!" How do they keep it cleaned?
Just before Judith and her arm are 2 pics of marble steps. As the step edges are fine examples of camouflage I imagine there were many missed footings and tumbles over the years.
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Post by bixaorellana on Aug 26, 2015 2:07:36 GMT
Thank you, Htmb, for sticking with it until the end. So glad you enjoyed the tiles, as well. They don't make 'em like that any more!
Thank you for the lovely compliment., Questa! Mm ~ I see what you mean about the steps. As for the dusting, it could have used some when I was there. I guess they use specialists and maybe compressed air nowadays, but especially in the little vignettes you can see evidence of dusting disasters. Many hands and arms have fared poorly.
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Post by questa on Aug 26, 2015 3:27:38 GMT
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Post by mossie on Aug 26, 2015 19:12:53 GMT
OMG
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