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Post by bixaorellana on Oct 31, 2018 5:55:25 GMT
It's that time of year again, when the division between the worlds parts long enough for the dear departed to come visit us. This is ten years of covering Muertos in Oaxaca for me, so I'm kicking off with bits and pieces from around town at this festive time of year, starting with October 26.
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Post by bixaorellana on Oct 31, 2018 6:16:00 GMT
Back near my house, things are looking good. These two businesses are across the street from the local market ~ The flower vendors at the entrance to the market are displaying the traditional marigolds and cockscombs of the season ~ A little stroll through the market, which by today (the 30th) had surpassed all I'm showing right now ~ Remembering the bygone beeves ~ and the passed on porkers ~ She's laid in the items people need to ornament their offering altars for the dead ~ This vendor has the sugar cane for making arches over the altars ~ These people from Atzompa are at the market every day, but have brought in extra items for the season. I asked what the jack-o-lanterns were called & she said, "They're calabazas [squash] -- calabazas for Muertos." An opportunity to buy marigolds on the way back to my house ~ ☠️ This is just the warm-up, folks. Much more to come, but now I'm off to bed so I can go off to the Etlas tomorrow for more pictures. ☠️
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Post by kerouac2 on Oct 31, 2018 7:11:37 GMT
And an excellent warm-up it is! I am basking in the warmth of the photos since it is 3° in Paris this morning. The little girl in the pink dress is wonderful, especially since I doubt that any of us can remember the simple pure joy of whirling around at that age with absolutely nothing to worry about.
Yet at this very moment, there are certainly hundreds of little children like that trudging north with their families with plenty of things to worry about, before they hit the wall of soldiers. I wonder if those families have any time for even a little celebration of Muertos.
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Post by mossie on Oct 31, 2018 9:30:51 GMT
I note that we are getting these skull face paintings here, copied from the Meurtos. So Guy Fawkes Day is being transformed via Halloween, to the Day of the Dead. A long way from Guy Fawkes, when his effigy is burnt on a bonfire to celebrate an attempt at overthrowing the King and government all in one fell swoop. And an opportunity for kids to beg for "Penny for the guy"
All very colourful now, thanks Bixa
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Post by patricklondon on Oct 31, 2018 11:23:44 GMT
Yes, the other day, I was surprised to see, in among the crowds of people on the travelator in Waterloo underground station in their newly-donned drab winter clothes, a young woman striding along in full Day of the Dead make-up, and Frida Kahlo-style flowered headdress and frock. I didn't have time to get my camera out, but London being London, everyone was studiously NOT noticing her. My blog | My photos | My video clips | My Librivox recordings"too literate to be spam"
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Post by bixaorellana on Oct 31, 2018 15:02:48 GMT
Thanks so much, guys! From what I've seen online, the imagery of Muertos is big in the US now, as is Frida. I'm a little sniffy about about, since I you have to wonder if the true sentiment of Muertos is exported along with the make-up and costumes. Mossie, you make a good point about a national tradition (albeit a gruesome one!) being eclipsed by imported images with little or no meaning to those sporting them. Patrick, it is that time of year after all. Maybe that wasn't a made-up Londoner, but the real spirit of Frida. Kerouac, you're so much more traveled than I, but I still hope you are looking at some of these pictures and saying excitedly to yourself, "I've been there!" Re: the wall of soldiers ~ this is making the rounds online:
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Post by kerouac2 on Oct 31, 2018 15:12:15 GMT
Apparently the urgency for the troops is because of election day. A few articles I've read have mentioned a few details that will probably not make American taxpayers happy. I still hope you are looking at some of these pictures and saying excitedly to yourself, "I've been there!" Of course, I am fully delighted to recognise things that I had the honour of seeing in person!
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Post by casimira on Oct 31, 2018 15:57:21 GMT
What a great lead in to this glorious feast day!!!
Bixa, your pics attest to how well honed your skills have evolved over all these years. Well done!
Looking forward to more and remembering what a delight it was for me to have witnessed this venerable celebration.
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Post by mickthecactus on Oct 31, 2018 17:16:29 GMT
We have it here in La Cala tomorrow!
I shall take pics. Pouring here at present which will ruin Hallowe’en. Forecast cloudless tomorrow.
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Post by lagatta on Oct 31, 2018 19:16:24 GMT
Pouring here; on the one hand I'm pissed off because I do have to run errands, but it does mean that Livia will stay in this evening.
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Post by cheerypeabrain on Oct 31, 2018 20:36:37 GMT
I knew this thread would cheer me up! a sumptuous feast of images Bixa dear. I knew pink and orange flowers would look good together...faaaaabulous.
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Post by mich64 on Oct 31, 2018 22:08:58 GMT
Cheers me up too! Was looking forward to it for the past week! I love the pink and orange as well.
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Post by bixaorellana on Nov 1, 2018 3:45:20 GMT
You all are being the most nicest ~ thank you! Kerouac, thanks for being an inspiration for never losing the sense of wonder at the wide world. Casimira, I thought of you today, as I was up in the Etlas & remembering my first Day of the Dead with you there at San Agustín Etla. I believe Kerouac has already urged you to do this, but I also beg you to find those pictures & scan them. One major reason to do that is because they were taken with the camera of one of our very own dead, Joe Newbrough. That is interesting that Day of the Dead will be celebrated in La Cala, Mick. Just this evening my picture-taking buddy told me that a comment she'd received on one of her DofD photos was from a Spanish woman who said, "We don't have this in España". Must be a regional thing in Spain. Thank you, dear Cheerikins! After your magnificent Grayson Perry doll, all the pink & orange must seem just standard good taste. What a kind thing to say, Mich! I see you've got the happy loud color bug as well. Well, moving along with the days leading up to All Hallows' Eve, here are some shots I took, all still staying close to home. The eyes have it! Peeking into the large Pochote courtyard, the organic foods market ! As for every major festival, a large pavilion selling folk crafts is set up on the north end of the pedestrian street. This one is particularly nice, as it features not only items from Oaxaca, but from other states as well. These are the archetypical small clay figures used to adorn graves and Muertos altars. They're sold all over Mexico, but I never knew that they came from Puebla ~ Here are wonderful examples of the black clay art of San Bartolo Coyotepec, Oaxaca ~ Also from Oaxaca are the these folk dancing bony beauties ~ Classic Oaxacan tin art. The beseeching lover & his girlfriend in the second picture are taken from Posada engravings. The women to their left look as though they were designed by Roz Chast.
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Post by bixaorellana on Nov 1, 2018 4:22:15 GMT
After seeing the crafts pavilion I was on my way home when I ran into this cutie and her family. They informed me that a children's event was imminent at the big bookstore on Alcala, so I turned around and motivated on down that way ~ Passing Sto. Domingo, I see these dancers. They're not in costume, but their fancy dancing duds were piled up on the retaining wall ~ Continuing south, I run into this procession, which initially appears to be honoring fruit-of-the-loom and also probably St. Jude ~ Shamrocks! My American mind is all confused, since I know it's nowhere near St. Patrick's day. Oh, of course: the shamrock is the symbol of the trinity, & this group is from San Trinidad de las Huertas (Holy Trinity of the Vegetable Fields, thus the produce at the beginning of the procession) ~ Waiting for the procession to go by was totally worth it just to see these giggly darlings ~ Just three friends out for a walk ~ Meanwhile at the bookstore, nothing is happening yet. The altar in the courtyard is nice though ~ Ah, the ghostly master of ceremonies is calling all to attend ~ When they arrive, they arrive in droves ~ Volunteers are to read to the children. This little walking library seems to bear either book titles &/or characters on his shelf ~ Some of the readers ~ And I leave them all to it ~
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Post by bixaorellana on Nov 1, 2018 4:33:58 GMT
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Post by bixaorellana on Nov 1, 2018 4:50:34 GMT
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Post by kerouac2 on Nov 1, 2018 6:05:06 GMT
Obviously, the figurines and dolls and skulls for sale are lovely, but I am wondering if people keep them on display in their homes all the time or if they just bring them out at this time of year, like Christmas decorations. Do you know, Bixa?
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Post by onlyMark on Nov 1, 2018 9:31:32 GMT
I just can't get past all the colours. I can't imagine anywhere else apart from maybe India that has so many different colours and patterns. And they can't resist adding a bit to the skull face paint either. Wonderful, a real riot.
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Post by casimira on Nov 1, 2018 14:01:21 GMT
I somehow had forgot that the year I visited was your first DOD . Jeezums, I would have to do some serious digging around in order to find those pictures. (I also forgot that I was using Joe's camera). I remember I took a good number of black and white shots which when you think about, devoid of the kaleidoscope of colors, they had a very somber like feel about them.
I was just thinking about them yesterday.
There's one standout photo in your first group of pics, the woman with the sugar cane,. It just blows me away. The composition and how the focus is one that one woman, you magically capture the other persons in the side ground. It's a magnificent photo.
Spot on the Roz Chast dopelgangers. I caught it immediately!!
I'm wondering and keep looking for musicians with all the dancing going on.
And, the lovely costumed lady dancers are so beautiful. I'm so impressed that you can now ID where they are from.
Do you find that there are more and more tourists from year to year? I did check out airfares to Mexico City and they seem much higher than other times of the year. I guess that much like Mardi Gras here everyone cashes in on the popularity of this festival. I don't know the exact price of the hotel where I was but I am sure it must be four times the amount today. (and, they even let me board the stray dog that adopted me! I remember the cleaning ladies giggling at me taking in a dog. I really wanted to take him home with me.)
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Post by bixaorellana on Nov 1, 2018 14:29:54 GMT
Obviously, the figurines and dolls and skulls for sale are lovely, but I am wondering if people keep them on display in their homes all the time or if they just bring them out at this time of year, like Christmas decorations. Do you know, Bixa? Kerouac, those very small figurines from Puebla would very probably come out only for Muertos. But the other things are fairly ubiquitous around here. People collect skeleton figures -- there are zillions of permutations & they'd be displayed all year. Ditto the tin work and the black pottery. I just can't get past all the colours. I can't imagine anywhere else apart from maybe India that has so many different colours and patterns. And they can't resist adding a bit to the skull face paint either. Wonderful, a real riot. Mark, I think you would love seeing this country and would zero in on things others might miss. Here's something I just learned, which might interest you because of all your experience in Africa. The word for the big dancing processions here is calenda. I've known that ever since I've lived here and guess it must have sounded familiar. However it wasn't until a couple of days ago that the penny dropped. Yes, I already knew that word from living in New Orleans and in fact the term came to the new world from Africa. www.jstor.org/stable/10.5406/jamerfolk.131.519.0003?seq=1#page_scan_tab_contentsI'm wondering and keep looking for musicians with all the dancing going on. And, the lovely costumed lady dancers are so beautiful. I'm so impressed that you can now ID where they are from. Do you find that there are more and more tourists from year to year? I did check out airfares to Mexico City and they seem much higher than other times of the year. Thanks, Casimira! The dancers shown in the pictures from Oct. 27 were using canned music, although from the surrounding activity I think they were waiting around for a bigger event later which would involve live musicians. As for the costumed lady dancers -- that's the fancy version of the traditional Isthmus clothing, so it's common to see women dressed like that. From what I've seen this year, I wouldn't say there are any more tourists than usual. I think to get a decent air fare here for DofD, you'd have to book well ahead of time. Hotels definitely fill up at this time of year. There is way more to this report. The magna comparsa from Oct. 28 is coming up next (with live musicians & even some sound), but I want to get the photos from yesterday off my camera to see what else I have. It's November 1 here in real time, All Saints Day, and incredibly quiet outside right now.
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Post by breeze on Nov 1, 2018 14:42:31 GMT
Bixa, this is as brilliant as usual.
I love the golden light on the dancers. In #15 6th photo is the young man on the step, among the pineapples, with the same group?
Face paint seems to be veering toward the pretty rather than the horrific, which suits me fine. Of course these are young women. The guys you photograph will probably prefer to be as gruesome as possible.
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Post by onlyMark on Nov 1, 2018 15:15:27 GMT
I looked into this a little and it appears there is a famous place in Louisiana, called Congo Square, where a load of slaves would gather to dance this style and others. It seems to have travelled a long way and been influential in many countries. You learn something new every day. en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Congo_Square
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Post by kerouac2 on Nov 1, 2018 16:26:11 GMT
One thing that is amazing after all of these years of fantastic reports about the seasonal celebrations is that I still remember the (positive) shock of the first report and the WTF elements of it. I could not imagine that there could be so many marigolds available for all of the displays or that there could be so much fervour in the cemeteries or to create all of the objects for sale, both to look at or to be eaten. And I am still thrilled to see new pictures every year and that you have spread out quite a bit more as time goes by to show all of the dancing, musicians and various antics.
And of course finally seeing it in person made it even better and totally unforgettable. I already said it before, but anybody who can make it Oaxaca at this time of year will absolutely never be disappointed.
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Post by mickthecactus on Nov 1, 2018 16:53:18 GMT
We have it here in La Cala tomorrow! I shall take pics. Pouring here at present which will ruin Hallowe’en. Forecast cloudless tomorrow. Don't get too excited. So far it consists of a half hearted Bank holiday, some food stalls down the middle of town and a sound system playing that old Spanish hit Good Golly Miss Molly. Returning later this evening but don't hold your breath.
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Post by kerouac2 on Nov 1, 2018 17:14:31 GMT
Oh, that is sad.
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Post by bixaorellana on Nov 1, 2018 22:23:25 GMT
Thank you so much, breeze ! Yes, that poor guy with his sad sack expression was a day late & a dollar short. All the other dancers were off being photographed at that point, & he was just starting to change clothes, in his modest way. I have not seen as much movie style special effects gruesome make up this year, thank goodness. I may or may not go to a comparsa tonight, which could put the lie to that. Thanks for that link, onlyMark -- illuminating! If you want to delver further into the music aspect, you can look up on youtube the song Bamboula mentioned in your link. It's interesting to compare it with Dr. John's Danse Kalinda Ba Doom or with the music of Professor Longhair, for instance, or James Booker. I still remember the (positive) shock of the first report and the WTF elements of it. ... And of course finally seeing it in person made it even better and totally unforgettable. I already said it before, but anybody who can make it Oaxaca at this time of year will absolutely never be disappointed. So generous, Kerouac -- thank you! Really and truly, I think this report has to be my Day of the Dead swan song, unless I get it together to go some other city for the festival. But I must say, looking at your and Htmb's takes on Muertos, there is gold yet to be mined here by others. So yes, anyone who comes will have an enthusiastic guide in me and I know what you see and show will be exciting. mickthecactus , be very grateful for Miss Molly. An American favorite here that will not die is The Village People's YMCA.
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Post by bixaorellana on Nov 1, 2018 22:46:48 GMT
I'm still processing zillions of pictures, but in thread time we're only up to Sunday the 28th. That was the day of the Magna Comparsa, the big meeting of all the towns with their particular costumes, bands, etc., when they take to the streets of the city to really kick off the season. It was supposed to start at 6 pm, so I headed over to Parque El Llano around 3:30 because I like to see them preparing and forming up. Some shots on the way there: crossing García Vigil & admiring the marigold blossoms strung above the streets all over the city ~ At a health clinic ~ Entering at the west side of the park, I see the quick being transformed into the dead ~ Participants are flowing in ~ Ooooo ~ what's this? It's Death in her cart. I think it's moving! Yes, there she goes, pulled by her faithful oxen ~ Here's a bunch arriving in their bus. I and of course you all will see much more of them later ~ Hierba de borracho (drunkard's herb) is being distributed. This is also given out to dance with at weddings. I believe it is Satureja macrostema ~
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Post by bixaorellana on Nov 1, 2018 23:45:32 GMT
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Post by bixaorellana on Nov 2, 2018 0:03:00 GMT
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Post by bixaorellana on Nov 2, 2018 5:13:59 GMT
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