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Post by kerouac2 on Mar 17, 2023 16:40:04 GMT
There are already a number of reports here about Metz, all of which should be admired, but maybe it's time for a new one. I arrived in Metz on a dismal afternoon and wisely decided to spend my time in the Centre Pompidou Metz (see the Museum Zone if this tempts you). But for once I had the whole next day to spend in the city instead of being in my normal rush, so I decided to walk around. The weather had improved remarkably. I tried not to take the same photos as in previous reports, but I'm sure I must have done so from time to time. My usual hotel might be an Ibis Styles, but I love the fact that it is an old historic hotel near the train station, built in the heavy Prussian architecture of the German times. Unfortunately, it is a bit too late in the season to use the fireplace in the downstairs lounge.
The train station area is clearly one of the most aristocratic neighbourhoods in the city.
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Post by kerouac2 on Mar 17, 2023 16:58:36 GMT
I took a photo of the Banque de France just because going there was the only reason my grandfather ever went to Metz with my brother and me, as the village mayor. I have no idea whether he was depositing money or taking money out or signing forms. He was of the generation where things like this were never discussed with children. This was a landmark of my youth. It contained the Prisunic department store (an ancestor of Monoprix) and contained the only thing that resembled a supermarket in 1964. It had a very 1960s aluminium and glass façade back then. I was delighted when they ripped all of that off to reveal the original "Metz stone" and it bacame... the Virgin Megastore. After Virgin died, it was an H&M store. Now it is a bank and will probably remain that way for a long time to come. Excuse me as I walk down rue Serpenoise and remember all of the past incarnations of these buildings. This was the big Palace Cinéma where I took my grandmother to see her very last movie on a big screen. It was Airport 1975 ( 747 en péril in French). Karen Black had to pilot the plane after something or other awful happened. My grandmother said "that girl was very courageous" as we walked back to the train station. The Mag-Est department store was here before becoming Printemps for the next 30 years. Now Printemps is gone, too. People from other parts of France find the "Metz stone" depressing, but I have always loved the colour. And then there is this place, ripped out of the Art Nouveau architecture of Nancy to stand here defiantly.
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Post by fumobici on Mar 17, 2023 19:01:25 GMT
As they say in La Grande Pomme, "Go Metz!"
This is delicious, the light is interesting and the architecture and ambience, very pleasing. Makes me wish I were strolling there.
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Post by lugg on Mar 17, 2023 19:40:15 GMT
Super . looking forward to seeing more K2. Lots of evocative memories for you - thank you for sharing them to add to your report.
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Post by kerouac2 on Mar 17, 2023 19:45:39 GMT
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Post by cheerypeabrain on Mar 17, 2023 21:52:32 GMT
Looks like a very grand place. Are there a lot of tourists around? There has been a bit on the news here about the anti-Macron protests, especially since the decision to increase the retirement age.
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Post by kerouac2 on Mar 17, 2023 22:54:25 GMT
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Post by kerouac2 on Mar 18, 2023 4:45:55 GMT
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Post by kerouac2 on Mar 18, 2023 4:55:22 GMT
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Post by fumobici on Mar 18, 2023 5:09:48 GMT
Those market photos are tantalizing, so much I want and cannot have here.
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Post by bjd on Mar 18, 2023 8:36:24 GMT
Interesting pics and comments on a place I have never been. Metz is one of those places I had no idea about and never had a reason to go to. The architecture is indeed a bit heavy but I imagine it fits in with the general atmosphere of the area.
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Post by kerouac2 on Mar 18, 2023 12:32:05 GMT
After leaving the market, I walked back towards the "Imperial District" built by Kaiser Wilhelm at the beginning of the 20th century. I made a point of taking streets with which I was less familiar. Metz is one of those places I had no idea about and never had a reason to go to. Metz is aleady full of and apprececiated by tourists from Germany and Benelux. If the French start going there, they might overwhelm the city.
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Post by kerouac2 on Mar 18, 2023 16:47:06 GMT
Among French boomers where the male is still the head of the household, you need look no farther for why most of the French do not set foot in Metz. Metz was the principal city in France where young men did their military service. Since it has never really been a town of bars or other futile pleasures, they all hated it with a passion and on top of that, the winter was often horrible, especially for conscripts from the south of France. Most of them swore they would never go there again, and they kept their word. It is the Palais du Gouverneur, built as the General-Kommando between 1902 and 1905. It was created by Kaiser Wilhelm II to serve as an official residence when he was in town. When it became French again after the Great War, it became the headquarters of the local French military command (lucky bastards) and it has retained that function to present times.
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Post by bjd on Mar 18, 2023 19:35:40 GMT
What a difference the sun makes! And any town or city with water gets bonus points.
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Post by kerouac2 on Mar 19, 2023 5:36:17 GMT
All of the "Imperial district" of Metz was built at the same time, just after the beginning of the 20th century. The Kaiser wanted to erase French culture in this city which would be part of Germany forever.
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Post by htmb on Mar 19, 2023 10:40:05 GMT
What I’ve seen so far of this report looks wonderful! I’ll have more time very soon to do more than skim through. I have memories of a 2010 stop in Metz and remember taking refuge inside the cathedral from heavy summer storm. If memory serves me, some of the newer, and very beautiful stained glass was created by Marc Chagall. The church on the river has always intrigued me, as well. It is/was a Protestant Reform church I believe.
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Post by kerouac2 on Mar 19, 2023 11:59:51 GMT
Yes, the modern windows in the cathedral are by Chagall. You can see more of them in my previous report about Metz. The church on the Moselle is indeed a Protestant church built during the German period.
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Post by nycgirl on Mar 19, 2023 20:54:14 GMT
I've always enjoyed your Centre Pompidou Metz reports; it's nice to see the city itself.
Your cathedral shots are gorgeous. I never get tired of seeing brilliant sunlight filtered through stained glass windows.
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