Muertos -- Coatepec, Veracruz 2023

[bixaorellana]

Well, here I am experiencing the days of the dead in my new home, far from my long-time home in Oaxaca.
I'm trying to be open-minded and not lessen the experience by comparing everything to Oaxaca. My impression (prejudice?) is that Oaxaca's celebration goes way, way back to pre-Hispanic times and the ingrained beliefs of those ancestors. This makes me suspect that such profundity may be less so elsewhere, which might be entirely unfair. After all, I would dread to see what is happening in my erstwhile home right now, what with all the skull-painted tourists, etc.
So far, the decorations I've seen here are heavy on the Catrinas, an image that was only introduced at the end of the 19th century. But we shall see!

At any rate, I have been out and about taking pictures of the festivities.
This first set is from October 21, as the decorations were still going up, and are from the main square ~

This beauty is standing in front of a lovely (if dry) feature of the park ~


To wit: La Fuente de Kerouac2 ~

[bixaorellana]

In thread time it's still Oct. 21 & we're still in the Parque -- what they call the zócalo/main square here.

There was music ~


I went over to the church to see how the arch from St. Jerome's day was holding up ~


The natural materials used in making the arch have faded and mellowed beautifully ~


Here we are in the government building, where there are often stands set up to sell crafts & local products ~




Out in the street I come upon something I don't believe I've seen before.
In all my years in Mexico, with all the papel picado bunting I've seen, I've never seen it being put up!




And that, my ghoulish friends, is the end of October 21 and, thank goodness, the end of the phone photos.
Stay tuned for October 28 & more pictures & yakking.

[bixaorellana]

Yesterday, Saturday October 28, I went back downtown to visit the organic market & to see what deadish scenes I could capture.
This truck unloading in front of a fruit stand caught my eye, & I figured you DofD thread readers would like a look at something typical ~

Banana leaves for wrapping tamales and ocote (heart of pine) for lighting the fire under the pot ~


Asking permission to take a picture turned out to be fun on several occasions, as people couldn't understand why I'd want the picture. Everyone was friendly so I had some nice exchanges and learned some things, as you will see.

What could be more typical of Veracruz than a truck full of bananas ~


Here is something new to me -- the little baskets to fill with treats to put on the Day of the Dead altar.
I saw lots of versions of these before the day was out ~


This lady is making altar baskets in her used clothing store, surrounded by her wares and many marigolds ~

And now for something completely different. Anyone who has followed the Oaxaca DofD threads knows that the arches for the altars are formed with stalks of sugarcane. Logically, this would be the case in Veracruz as well, considering that it produces over 41% of the nation's sugar.
The closer I got to to town, the more of these bundles of branches I saw for sale. I asked some ladies what the branches were for. They were amazed I didn't know & informed me that these branches -- ramas tinajas/Trichilia havanensis are for creating the arches for the altars commemorating the dead. "So you don't use sugar cane", I asked. You could tell they thought that was a nonsensical question.

A barber shop. Do you think they're fans?

[whatagain]

I love this days of the dead in Mexico.
The idea of turning it into a party is so intelligent compared to the gloom of Europe where we all go to cemeteries with a look of sadness and ugly flowers.
I hate chrysanthemums.
I keep telling everyone I don’t want them in my cemetery but my father keeps bringing them each year.

And lovely pics btw and a good idea to show the behind the scene aspects !

[lugg]

It is so good to see this thread Bixa . The colours are as vibrant as ever in ? Veracruz, one of the things that I have always loved about your DoD posts over the years.

The photo below entitled ..The natural materials used in making the arch have faded and mellowed beautifully is just so beautiful.

Looking forward and hoping for more

[kerouac2]

I know that we're not quite at the big day yet, but I appreciate (so far) the fact that nothing seems completely overwhelming. While I loved everything I saw in Puebla and Oaxaca, it sometimes seemed like a complete tourist show. That is perfectly fine, particularly for us tourists, but so far this looks like the people are doing this more for themselves than as a show for outsiders.

Living in such a tourist city myself, I think I can easily distinguish between the two modes.

[bixaorellana]

Aw, thank you, Whatagain! Of course we are in deepest grief when a loved one dies, but you are so right that treating death as part of the natural order of things makes so much more sense than giving in to the idea that it is the end.

Chrysanthemums are the flowers for All Souls day where I come from, too, but I don't dislike them. I like the way they smell and I think of them as a classic Japanese flower -- so art rather than gloomy cemetery adornment.

Thank you so much, Lugg! Yes, there will be more, although not the extravaganza of images provoked by Oaxaca's celebration. I saw some pretty stuff today & got pictures.
HERE is where I am.

Kerouac, I have to disagree with your perception that what you saw in Oaxaca was a tourist show. It is true that much of what goes on (should probably say went on) during Muertos attracts tourists, but it was at essence an event put on by and for the benefit of the celebrants.

Oaxaca, Oaxaca is a state capital of over 300,000 people in the immediate city. Contrast that with the @56,000 population of Coatepec. The number of comparsas (costumed parades with bands) alone generated by every school, civic, and friendship group in Oaxaca is enormous, not to mention the persistence of customs such as altars to be shared with the public.

Coatepec, because of its status as a Pueblo Mágico, gets its share of tourists from around Mexico, but most of what goes on as celebration does indeed seem to be by and for the local population.

The main reason I left Oaxaca was because of its relentless promotion of itself for tourism. I would dread going to Oaxaca for Muertos this year, knowing how well "discovered" the city became in the last couple of years, how trendy it has become and how the population of digital nomads has exploded. Be glad you saw it when you did.

[bixaorellana]

So I left you all in front of the barbershop on the way to the main square on October 28.
Nimbly trotting on a few more blocks that day, I arrived at the Parque ~

We get the fancy sign for being a pueblo mágico ~

Everyone wanted pictures in front of this arch.
The sign says Mictlan, the underworld + Coatl, the Náhuatl word for snake + tepetl, the Náhuatl word for hill or mountain ~






What is this overdressed crew doing?


Why, I believe they're groupies, hanging out under the bandstand ~

[bixaorellana]

Coatepec deems itself "capital de las orquídeas" and it certainly is dedicated to these plants.
They grow year-round in the Parque -- these are just a few, although not in flower right now ~






This pavilion was set up over the weekend, with traditional healings & food for sale. The healings seemed very popular.
The patients were lightly beaten with bundles of leaves, censed and physically manipulated in various ways ~


On the sidewalk in front of the market now, with the incense vendors out in force ~






The scented smoke drifts into the market area ~

[bjd]

I'm glad to see that the "healers" are women rather than men.

Is there an area of Mexico where the zillions of marigolds are grown especially for the festivals or are they always local? There were tons in Oaxaca too.

[bixaorellana]

The healers were women, but they had a fair amount of men patients as far as I could see. I did note that their clients seemed to be people well into middle age or older, but did see two neo-hippie young women looking & asking questions.

As far as the marigolds, I believe they are grown all over the country both on a large commercial scale and on home grounds especially for this time of year. Most of Mexico has a year-round growing season. Marigolds are not used for the rest of the festivals, but specifically for the days of the dead.

[kerouac2]

I don't understand why the healers should be women.

[lugg]

I actually think it is no less spectacular, given my love of all your DoD threads . Maybe more local, but in a very good way but your images and the colours are just as special . I do hope that we get to see some of the orchids in bloom at a later date.

[bjd]

Oct 31, 2023 18:32:16 GMT kerouac2 said:

I don't understand why the healers should be women.

Usually people with any kind of power over others, like preachers/gurus/sect leaders/snakeoil sellers, are men. In this case, I found it interesting that the healers are women.

[mich64]

Bixa it looks like you have found a wonderful new home! How enjoyable that even though it is the same festival you are finding how your new area does things a little differently. Enjoying your photos so far and excited for what else you will find.

[bixaorellana]

Thank you, Lugg! I appreciate that, since it's impossible to deny the dazzle that Oaxaca delivered. This is more low-key, but the happiness and good spirit here as people prepare for the holiday is palpable and delightful.

Thank you, Mich! It's nice to be here, even as it feels odd after a quarter of a century living elsewhere. Everything feels different here, but in a good way. I do have & will have more to show.

This batch of pictures is from yesterday.

These banners at the entrance to a crafts and plant pavilion ask "Where are you visiting us from?"




This glamorous figure greets one at the entrance to the government palace ~


Ahhh! Inside are altars put up by various schools ~


This one honors the hero Morelos ~




This altar honors the beloved singer Vicente Fernández


Here's an appropriate song from Chente for this season. If you are as susceptible as I am, this is a real weeper.
Follow along with the lyrics in English ~


An altar to symmetry ~


The huge woman in front of the palace really rocks those earrings ~

[fumobici]

Nice! Can't wait to see more. The first altar photo is perfectly composed.

[bixaorellana]

Leaving the Parque, I pass through the market on my way home. Besides all the Muertos stuff on the sidewalk and inside and out the market, there is a pavilion set up selling yet more day of the dead necessities.

This man painstakingly separates the delicate sheets of papel picado ~


Bread for the quick and the dead ~

Here an explanation is in order. All over town signs have sprung up in front of all kinds of stores offering jamoncillo, but I could not see any. In my experience, jamoncillo is a dense, very chewy confection made of raw sugar and coconut. It's sold on the street in Oaxaca at certain times of year and can be light colored, but as often as not is so dark it is almost black. Example. Finally I realized that all the little figures made of what appeared to be marzipan were in fact the jamoncillo. And then I was shown and sold two versions of the jamoncillo -- peanut and squash seed -- in bar form. Oh, praise be to the god of sugar! This stuff is delicious and addictive. It's is rather smooth, nowhere near as sweet as marzipan, and lacks the cloying quality of fudge. I was both disappointed and relieved to learn that it's only available at this time of year. Anyway ~

I believe all this pottery comes from the state of Puebla ~




Don't you just love a Mexican market all geared up for Muertos?

[bixaorellana]

Thanks, Fumobici!

Finally catching up with myself here will show the pictures from today, October 31st.

But before I go one step further, I want to honor my father, whose 105th birthday would have been today.

Fred Ulysses Logsdon, October 31, 1918 -- March 16, 1998


Any of you who feel moved to do so, please feel free to include your own departed loved ones in this thread.

Caftan Rojo, the arts school that hosts the book exchange, has an altar.
Note the kittycat picture -- the day to remember deceased pets is October 27 ~


Their altar features a very fine Tree of Life from Metepec, in the state of Mexico ~


The salt is to purify the souls which come to visit (information) ~


The grounds of the school are beautiful, especially with the marigold petal path to guide the dead home ~


I pass this place all the time on my walk back from the book exchange. Today it is appropriately decked out ~


But it is named this all year long ~

[onlyMark]

I'd like some of those cooking pots and I'd also have a weakness for the jamoncillo.
I've little to base it on but the whole thing here, judging from previous reports from Oaxaca, has more of a feeling of we're doing it for us rather than with an eye for tourism. I don't know if 'authentic' is the right word, just more close to heart. I can imagine in Oaxaca you were struggling to take any photos without dodging the tourists all doing the same thing.

[kerouac2]

The artistry of the jamoncillo is delightful. Even though I'm sure that it comes as second nature to decorate these things after a season or two, the details are certainly much finer than they need to be for something meant to be gobbled in a few seconds.

I notice that in the photos so far, the (living) women are not at all dressed up like they were in Oaxaca.

[bixaorellana]

Well, I disagreed with Kerouac about the decorations in Oaxaca being all for the tourists & I will disagree with Mark as well. Because I lived there & because I saw the level of decorations for everything, including in outlying areas which expected no tourists, I know the penchant for decorating and the artistic talent in Oaxaca exists regardless. Looking through past reports, I just found a comment I made to Tod about how beautifully set up even produce displays were all the time. But really, the impulse for adornment both beautiful and whimsical can be seen all over this country. Oaxaca is rightfully known for the variety and artistry of its folkcraft which has always attracted visitors from elsewhere in Mexico and from other countries. I just zipped through my Muertos reports from 2019, '20, and '21. The 2021 report brings home the huge increase in tourism that ultimately drove me away from Oaxaca -- an increase that was always driven by the city government. Even so, I know how much of the beauty and exuberance there would exist even with no tourism.

Now, in this much smaller city and in an area with a different history and culture, I still see and admire the Mexican zest for creating beauty and fun. This is particularly lovely during this celebration of the dead, as all the elaborately created beauty is appropriately meant to be ephemeral.

[cheerypeabrain]

It is interesting to see the differences in the celebration of the DotD in Oaxaca and Veracruz. Looking back the Oaxacan festivities feel 'ancient' if you know what I mean. I hesitate to say 'primitive' because that's not right....maybe primeval/darker? More 'Wicker Man' than 'Morris Dancer'?

Whatever...they are both stunning, beautiful and infuse the board with colour and atmosphere. Great stuff medear.

[mich64]

I agree with how onlyMark was describing the difference, that authentic was perhaps not the correct word, but kind of. The word that came to my mind was organic.

Kind of like when our small city does Christmas parades, farmer's markets or even Veteran's Day ceremonies, in comparison to the larger cities ours are on such a smaller scale (but includes most of what you see in larger places) and maybe what is different is the traditions by locals for locals as I would say ours are not even regional, really local. I think this is what I am seeing from Bixa, while I assume there are some out of town vendors but probably the same vendors locals see all year long.

The last alter really appealed to me. It was really different.

[htmb]

Bixa, I’ve been zipping in and out of your photos, but haven’t had a chance to really read the thread properly. I’ll do so once my company leaves in a week or so. However, I have had a chance to share some of your wonderful photos with my oldest granddaughter, along with my older pics. GD’s Spanish II teacher, who is from Mexico, has been talking a lot about Muertos and the students are required to make class presentations. GD lost her father a couple of years ago, so this has become a special project for her. She’s enjoyed seeing your photos very much.

[lugg]

Just fabulous ... the colours / the stories, really enjoying this Bixa. I dont know if I have ever said this in your previous posts but what really strikes me is the difference between a UK Halloween and a Mexican Muertos. Same origins but very different takes. ( at least in the 21st century.

Nov 1, 2023 3:58:25 GMT bixaorellana said:

Any of you who feel moved to do so, please feel free to include your own departed loved ones in this thread.

I guess it is just so right to honour your father in this thread. ( What a fab image) and thank you for the invite to do the same .
Here is mine of my Mum and Dad back in the 50s

live.staticflickr.com/65535/53305755534_0398ca13a6_c.jpg

[kerouac2]

Hi hi... she looks like his mother! But that's because of the way women's hairstyles were back then.

[bixaorellana]

I wish light in your hearts to all of you souls here on anyport as we enter the dark months of the year on this All Souls Day 2023.

🕯️ 🕯️ 🕯️ 🕯️ 🕯️ 🕯️ 🕯️ 🕯️ 🕯️ 🕯️ 🕯️ 🕯️ 🕯️ 🕯️ 🕯️

Lugg, I am so pleased that you honored your parents with that lovely picture of happiness and love -- thank you for sharing it with us!

Htmb, thank you so much for showing the pictures to your granddaughter & letting me know her reaction. I am immensely flattered and gratified!

Mich, yes -- with your usual sensitivity you have pinpointed the difference in the celebrations of my old and new homes!
And you have a good eye. The altar you like has no Christian symbols on it, as it belongs to a Jewish couple.

Wow, Cheery --you zeroed in and perfectly described something I felt, but did not know how to clearly articulate. Thank you for that and for your kind compliments.

💀 💀 💀 💀 💀 💀 💀 💀 💀 💀 💀 💀 💀

Let me wind this thread up now. The plan was to give you all a bunch of pictures from last night's Catrina parade. Well, the Catrinas paraded without me, as I huddled inside away from the cold, the dark, and the rain.

Still, I did get a few images yesterday, so let's go out on a little blast of appropriately morbid local color ~

As you see, everyone will be able to choose a personal Santa Muerte on trips to Coatepec ~


Someone seems mighty pleased with herself for winning the first prize in the best skeleton contest.
She is a coffee harvester ~


Her shyer sister comes out of the kitchen to display her second place certificate and a toothsome plate of food ~

That's it! A huge thanks to all of you who cheered me as I showed these pictures and worked through my emotions about leaving a place I knew so well and learning to love and appreciate my new home. ❤️

[kerouac2]

This was a great report, unlike the probably overly long ones that some of us did in Oaxaca (but it is so easy to get carried away!).

[LindaT]

Thank you for sharing your “dead” experiences in both places. This is my first and I’m in SMA - lots of tourists, but everyone is having a good time. So colorful and I love the decorated doorways.