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Post by cristina on Oct 17, 2009 14:39:43 GMT
I set sail on the Queen Mary 2 on October 9th, arriving in Southampton, England on Thursday, October 15th. This was my first cruise ever (or in this case, "crossing") and it was really a treat. The QM2 is a massive ship but unfortunately I did not get a picture of her from land so you could see the scale. However I did get a picture from the uppermost deck as we passed under the Verrazano Narrows Bridge heading out to sea. The picture below shows a thing (sorry, I am sure it has a proper name) that was above and behind me. It was the tallest part of the ship (although the funnel looked like it might have been a bit taller. The Commodore promised that we would miss the bridge by a few meters. A few meters?!! Remind me not to drive across that bridge when the QM2 is approaching. And here is an uncommon view (for me, anyway, since it usually sets over the Pacific if I happen to be near an ocean) of the sun setting over the Atlantic. I have a few pictures from my first two full days in Paris, however my camera battery died before I could upload them to my PC. As I have only one adapter with me, I can charge the battery or use the PC, but not both, so I will be back later with a few more comments. In the meantime, I will be researching the logistics of the Salon du Chocolat that Kerouac was so thoughtful to point out elsewhere. ;D
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Post by bixaorellana on Oct 17, 2009 14:44:36 GMT
Many WOWs! Cristina.
Thanks for taking us along on the crossing. That sunset picture is magnificent. And YEEK on the bridge pic. (I think that thing is the ship's radar tower)
Can't wait for further adventures.
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Post by auntieannie on Oct 17, 2009 15:36:54 GMT
shudder shudder about passing under the verrazano narrow bridge... but what a fun way of crossing the atlantic, Cristina!
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Post by Deleted on Oct 17, 2009 18:25:10 GMT
Fantastic, Cristina! I passed under the Verrazano Narrows Bridge on the France and on the Michelangelo (on earlier crossings, the bridge did not yet exist). And I have even driven over it once, with my vertigo prone friend Ali who almost died of terror before we got to the other side.
I will certainly cross the Atlantic at least one more time by ship before I die. It is a fantastic experience which I have experienced...... hmmm.... let me count.... 7 times so far. The hell with planes!
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Post by auntieannie on Oct 17, 2009 20:33:33 GMT
Hey, K! my mom crossed the Atlantic on the France as well!
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Post by cristina on Oct 17, 2009 20:38:00 GMT
When I win the lottery and can thus afford to spend all of my time traveling, I am sure I will go by ship. It was so nice to arrive in Europe without jet lag.
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Post by Deleted on Oct 18, 2009 0:18:27 GMT
Oh I am so envious of your Atlantic crossing Cristina. Have only done NY to Nova Scotia by ship. Thank you for taking us along on your adventure and let me know how the chocolates were ok?
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Post by lagatta on Oct 18, 2009 1:45:48 GMT
Sounds wonderful. Kerouac, when you were young was it still cheaper for a family to do the crossing by ship? It seems to me that as a little girl I remember the Queen (still the same damned Queen - she has been around all my life, and I ain't young!) arriving in Canada via ship. Guess it was safer, or more comfy.
cristina, do tell us a bit about your Paris séjour, even if you can't post pictures.
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Post by fumobici on Oct 18, 2009 2:55:41 GMT
My grandmother gave me an old steamer trunk that was plastered with those wonderful graphic stickers from transatlantic crossings on most of the classic liners, but it was just to beat to keep. I think the stickers were pretty much all that was holding it together by the time I got it. She must have made the crossing a couple of dozen times minimum.
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Post by cristina on Oct 18, 2009 8:36:51 GMT
I arrived at my hotel in Paris at around 6pm on Thursday the 15th. Because the cruise demanded formal attire for 3 nights and very dressy cocktail attire for a fourth night, I had to travel with two suitcases so therefore had to take a taxi from Orly. I find that I get to know my way better when I can walk or take public transportation but even though I could strap my roller board on top of the larger bag, they were just too damned heavy to negotiate the Métro and related walking. (Formal wear and shoes are getting shipped back on Monday by mail as I refuse to take a taxi to CDG for my return flight). After getting settled in my room, I took a little walk around the neighborhood to try to acclimate myself. My hotel is a nice little two star, very near the St Michel Métro and located on a mostly pedestrian street. I had an unremarkable dinner at a restaurant down the street –Café Latin - however my wine, a Vin de Pays du Var was really very good. On Friday, I was met by a friend in the morning and we strolled around, mostly catching up on events without really touring. We did make a quick visit into Notre Dame and then after exiting, walked around to a park behind the Cathedral to sit and eat pastries we were carrying with us. I think that people focus on the front of the Cathedral and forget that the view to the back, while different, is equally interesting. My friend also pointed out the bullet holes in the Cathedral’s façade (along with the bullet holes in other buildings that we passed), a result of the French uprising against the Germans upon Liberation. I would have assumed that the holes were more the wear and tear of age; seeing them and understanding their source makes the occupation much more real. We eventually ended up at Place de Vosges, where after a tour of the Victor Hugo museum, we had a late lunch and parted ways. I returned to my hotel at around 3pm, lay down for a brief nap and slept for 4 hours. I think we covered more ground than I thought we had. I had dinner nearby, at Le Depart. Also unremarkable, but was again served a very nice wine. This time, a Sancerre. I’ve noticed that in the time that I have been here, I have only had wine or coffee to drink. I may need to diversify a bit. On the walk home to my hotel, I came across a group of street dancers – hip hop dancers performing for the hat. They were really very good and clearly enjoyed themselves. I took a few pictures, but it was difficult to capture good images since it was rather crowded. The image below is of a young man spinning on his head on the concrete. Musical accompaniment: The Black Eyed Peas' "Boom Boom Pow."
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Post by Deleted on Oct 18, 2009 10:02:07 GMT
A great travel yarn you spin here Cristina. So enjoy. The worn bullet holes transporting me to all the novels I've read of the Occupation. Sorry the food hasn't been more memorable but who cares. You're there. Do though,try and hydrate more with other fluids. Your body will thank you. Carry on and thank you for taking the time to update us. Very thoughtful indeed.
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Post by Deleted on Oct 18, 2009 10:37:44 GMT
Yes, those hip hop dancers alternate all day long between in front of Notre Dame and Place Saint Michel. They work in shifts, so I am sure they must make a pretty good living.
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Post by lagatta on Oct 18, 2009 12:28:09 GMT
casimira, I presume cristina drinks water. I drink water all day while working at the computer. But the only other beverage I drink besides coffee and wine is tea. I don't like beer and can't abide sweet fizzy drinks, and would rather eat fruit than drink it (unless it is fermented, of course). I live very close to a large public market and always have fresh fruit. Drat, I had visions of crossing the ocean by ship, but I don't own any formal wear and have no intention of buying any, and I couldn't stand having to drag heavy suitcases about or take taxis into Paris, where there is good transport from the airports.
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Post by Deleted on Oct 18, 2009 13:04:24 GMT
Well, she said she has only had wine and coffee to drink since being there so therefore, my encouraging words.
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Post by lagatta on Oct 18, 2009 13:32:50 GMT
She would be terribly dehydrated then! It is true that there is always the temptation to avoid drinking the water we need when walking about as one always has to find somewhere to pee then - at least kerouac addressed this crucial issue with his Paris sanisette thread!
In Italy, when you order an espresso at the bar, they serve you a glass of water with it.
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Post by cristina on Oct 18, 2009 13:52:17 GMT
Just to make it clear, I have drunk some water, just not nearly as much as I'm accustomed to. Living in the desert, I usually drink up to two gallons per day. Since I've been here, I am drinking about 8 oz per day. Bad Cristina. I bought two 1.5 liter bottles today (just before hitting a cave for my personal wine stash. ;D And my unremarkable dinners weren't in the least bit awful. They just weren't memorable, so I am really not complaining. Besides, I seem to be improving on my ability to pick better cafés or restaurants as I go. And lagatta, I found all of my formal wear at outlet stores - all upscale, and each dress cost less than USD$50. And all now available for anyone who wants to buy once-worn evening wear. Special discount for anyone in Paris who can can pick up the dress or dresses and save me shipping the dresses home. Besides, Cunard Line is the only cruise line that really emphasizes formal nights. There are other liners that cross the Atlantic that are less formal, so don't let formal nights discourage you. Kerouac, do you not like the street dancers? This is usually my favorite form of entertainment in any city that I visit, but I must say that this particular troupe was among the best that I have seen.
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Post by cristina on Oct 18, 2009 14:17:53 GMT
On Saturday, I hiked to the Musée des Arts Décoratifs since there was an exhibit of garments designed by Madeleine Vionnet that I was happy to see coincided with my visit. I spent about two hours there, ending with a stroll through the gift shop. I was intrigued and amused to see that they sold several artist-designed “sex-toys,” reproductions from a prior exhibit I believe. This is something one doesn’t frequently come across in museum gift shops. At least this was a first for me. After, since I was next to the Louvre, I popped in for what turned out to be a quick tour. I’d been here before and the museum was not a priority but since I had bought a museum pass I figured I could see a few parts of the museum at a time. It was very crowded and very warm (to me, anyway) and as feelings of claustrophobia began to set in I had to escape. After a very fine, late lunch at Les Rubis (I wrote about this in the “What’s for dinner tonight” thread), with more good wine, I started to make my way back to the hotel. Since the café was north of the Tuileries, I decided to cross through the park to get to Rue de Rivoli. It is here that I ran across a temporary exhibit of sculptures by Ugo Rondinone that I really enjoyed. Part of the Festival d’Automne À Paris, I believe they will be on exhibit until November 15th. Titled “Sunrise East,” the exhibit is made up of twelve slightly grotesque heads, each representing a month of the year. I couldn’t find any information on the sculptures in the gardens and the little I have found on the internet is in French, which I can read, but v-e-r-y slowly. The sculptures are humorous and really delightful in their positioning among more traditional statues. A few of my photos below: As I exited the park, I noticed a lot of lovin’ going on. I could only photograph one couple without appearing indiscreet or intrusive: As I made my way back to my hotel, the heavens opened just about 3 or 4 blocks from home and I was soaked thoroughly by the rain. Had I thought not to leave my umbrella in my room, I am certain that it wouldn’t have rained at all.
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Post by imec on Oct 18, 2009 14:43:02 GMT
This is great cristina, thanks! A trip to Paris and an Atlantic crossing in grand style - fantastic!
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Post by bixaorellana on Oct 18, 2009 14:46:08 GMT
Oh ~~ this is great, Cristina -- really exciting! I love the way you "do" a place -- getting to know it without doggedly marching yourself through everything you're "supposed" to do. It really feels as though we can see what you're experiencing. That's a great detail about the bullet holes.
I LOVE your photos of the Rondinone scultures, especially the way each one mimics something or is being mimicked. The first one, "shark man", is mirrored by the slightly pointed tower with "eyes" to the right behind him. The second ones eyes lean backward in his head, just like the skylights (?) above the dormers in the building behind him, plus you caught the lady reproducing his expression. And the third's round face and rays capture the verticals and arches on his building's facade. Brilliant!
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Post by Deleted on Oct 18, 2009 15:18:33 GMT
I walked through there with my nephew and told him that maybe in 50 or 100 years, sculptures like that would replace the tradtional ones.
He said, "I don't think so."
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Post by cristina on Oct 20, 2009 8:33:27 GMT
On Sunday, I stayed close to home, more or less, and started with a walk down bd St-Germain to the St-Germain-des-Prés church. This church appears to be the oldest church in Paris, originally built in 542. It has been rebuilt and restored over the years and the present church dates from sometime in the 11th century. It became a Benedictine Abby in the 8th century. However (given that it was Sunday), I wasn’t there to attend Mass. No, I came specifically to visit Guillaume Apolloniare. This bust, Hommage to Apollonaire, was created by his friend Pablo Picasso. While crossing the Atlantic, I had finished reading the book Vanished Smile: The Mysterious Theft of Mona Lisa, about the 1911 theft of the painting from the Louvre. Apollonaire and Picasso were very close friends at the time and both were arrested and held under suspicion briefly. This was most likely due to the fact that Picasso did have in his possession several small sculptures, also stolen from the museum. (These he had bought from their respective thief or thieves.) So that is the background on my wish to visit this little sculpture (who appears to provide an ideal resting spot for pigeons): Next, I visited the Eugène Delacroix museum, a tiny little museum housed in his former home. 19th Century Romantic artists aren’t my favorites, however his lithographs illustrating scenes from Hamlet were really wonderful. There wasn’t enough light to take photos without a flash so you will have to use your imagination. Final stop of the day was the D’Orsay Museum. As it was Sunday, it was a bit crowded; otherwise, I could have spent all day here. As it was, I managed to stay for 2 hours or so before the crowd-induced claustrophobia forced me to leave. I love everything about this museum. The building, of course (and imec’s photo’s did the building far more justice than mine do) is really magnificent. But I also like the way the museum is laid out. I only wish that the escalators were more easily found. Since by this time I had walked quite a bit, I wasn’t as keen on taking the stairs. Unfortunately, when I needed the “up” escalator, all I could find was the “down,” and vice verse. Oh well, my thighs and derrière are all the better for it, even if my knees don’t necessarily agree. I especially enjoyed the collection of Art Nouveau furniture on exhibit. For those of you with Billiard Rooms, you might appreciate this Guimard-designed Banquette du Fumoir, created for a Pharmacist, Albert Roy, who apparently made a good living since he could afford a Billiard Room (and to commission furniture for said room): A view outside, through the back of the exterior clock. Not my best photo, unfortunately: Lunch that day was at Da Rosa, a Mediterranean café at 62 rue de Seine. I had tapas of jambon Serrano and Choizo Iberico along with Manchego cheese and a glass of Chateau Mirabel (25 euros total). It was a perfect lunch, accompanied by music from a strolling accordionist, who was not afraid to approach diners with his cup in between songs. I ended my day having dinner for a second time at La Jacobine, near my hotel. I had skipped napping today because it was really interfering with night time sleep, so I was too tired to go far for food. By now, I have observed that portions are much larger than I had expected in Paris. For example, I ordered the ravioli as my starter, expecting a plate of 2 or three pasta pillows. I instead received a rather large dish of something with artichokes in a light cream sauce that had been topped with a lot of cheese and passed under the broiler. I think ravioli must be a different dish in France. While it tasted very good, it was really the size of a main dish. By the time my salmon arrived, there wasn’t much room left for me to enjoy it, even though I had only eaten half of the ravioli. This meal was washed down with a glass of Terre Tariquet and the total bill was 38 euros. Tomorrow, crossing the width of Paris on foot, and a lovely dinner with a stranger…
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Post by imec on Oct 20, 2009 12:33:26 GMT
Wow, I love that banqette - and I'm normally more of a deco guy. Ha! We took the same pic of the clock with Sacre Coeur peeking through.
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Post by bixaorellana on Oct 20, 2009 14:12:16 GMT
Different strokes -- all I could think about the sofa was, "why didn't he stop before he screwed it up?"
This is such a great report, Cristina. It's a treat to follow you around Paris.
Thanks for the wonderful bust of Apollinaire. I adore Picasso, but don't remember ever having seen a photo of that piece before. Note that it has a pigeon & its poo on top. None of the silver statues in your Reply #16 sport that traditional statuary topping.
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Post by imec on Oct 20, 2009 14:24:56 GMT
Different strokes -- all I could think about the sofa was, "why didn't he stop before he screwed it up?" It's the absurdity of it that makes it special.
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Post by cristina on Oct 20, 2009 16:16:53 GMT
Thank you imec and bixa for your kind comments. I have really enjoyed this trip although I have literally walked my ass off. I'm a bit sad this evening as today was my last full day, and I'll be heading to the airport at around 1:30pm tomorrow. There is so much more that I would have liked to have seen, especially a bit further away from the Seine, but this just motivates me to save my money and plan another trip. The next time, I would like my children to join me. College girl was here for a brief visit in April and said she hated it. Probably because she was a poor university student. If she had been with me on this trip, I think she would have enjoyed all of the things that I did. Especially if I was paying for it. ;D
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Post by imec on Oct 20, 2009 16:46:14 GMT
cristina, don't look at it as your last day, look at it as your Finale! Dine well, have one more glass of champagne, try to squeeze in a little romance and celebrate all of the things you did do and see - Paris ain't going nowhere and you'll be back.
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Post by Deleted on Oct 20, 2009 16:55:36 GMT
Such a quick trip! Those are so frustrating, but it's true that they are extremely 'motivational' for a fast return. It's true that being poor in Paris can be unpleasant, so I'm sure that 'college girl' would appreciate a return voyage with better funding. Any time of year has its own treats. I am already getting psyched for Christmas season for some reason (probably because it's been cold and I have been watching them put up all the lights in the trees on the Champs Elysées).
[Meanwhile I am bracing myself for my unwanted trip to Cairo (the 9th?) on Friday. First of all, I have a 7am flight to Rome to start it off, which means that I will take the infamous 4:56 RER to CDG.]
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Post by cristina on Oct 20, 2009 17:13:28 GMT
Bixa, I think the color of the Rondinone sculptures provides sufficient camouflage for bird poop. I'm sure that Paris pigeons are no more discriminatory than pigeons in any other part of the world. imec, I am celebrating with a lovely bottle of Pellehaut, Harmonie de Gascgone, part of my shopping loot today. And K2, if you see this in time, both my friend who lives here and the hotel manager, have encouraged me to take a taxi to the airport tomorrow because of the strike. I understand that the strike is due to end at 8pm tonight, however. I really don't relish the idea of a 60 euro cab fare, so I have a taxi reserved since the are shuttles already booked (a result of the strike, no doubt.) Any other ideas? And no, I am not walking to CDG. I'm done walking for a while.
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Post by Deleted on Oct 20, 2009 17:25:02 GMT
The strike will indeed end tonight, and it was not very successful anyway. I would take the RER if at all convenient for you. You have all morning to get to the airport anyway, and the internet will instantly inform you if there is any disruption in service. 8.50€
Sheesh! This time I am the one who has to wonder if I should take the RER, because I can't afford anything going wrong on Friday with such an early departure.
I like your photo, by the way!
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Post by cristina on Oct 21, 2009 8:42:08 GMT
On Monday, I really had no concrete plans as many of the museums I was interested in were closed. So after a late start, I headed out, with no particular itinerary or destination in mind. I ended up walking from my hotel (near the St Michel metro) almost to the Eiffel Tower. I really enjoyed the walk, which took about two hours as I stopped to sit for a while in the Tuileries, as well as a few other little parks. It was a beautiful day for walking as long as I stayed on the sunny side of the street. Walking through the Tuileries, I noticed more than a few temporary art installations, all part of FIAC, a contemporary arts festival in Paris (naturally starting the day after I leave.) I did manage a few photos, though, such as this cheerful snowman, titled Bonnehomme de Neige, by Pierre Ardouvin: Another piece, called Marclay’s Bike by Dominique Blais is a modified BMX. I’m not sure that I can fully appreciate the artist’s vision in this one. And this installation-in-progress, of cymbals in the pond. I wonder if there will be some kind of musical performance? I ended up at Place de l’Alma, decided I was hungry and wandered around in search of lunch. The first restaurant I came by offered club sandwiches for 17 euros. I don’t think so. I ended up sitting outside at Le Marceau, on Ave Marceau and rue Chaillot, having a coffee and resting for a bit. After, I walked up President Wilson past the Palais du Tokyo and sat for a bit in the very pretty garden of the Musée de la Mode (which is closed until Spring, unfortunately.) By now, it was about 3:30 pm so I thought I should start working my way back to my hotel. By the time I reached Pont Alexandre I had had enough of walking so I decided it was time to introduce public transportation into my holiday. While I like the métro for its efficiency in getting one from Point A to Point B, I much prefer buses because you can see where you’re going. 15 minutes later, I got off at Cluny-Sorbonne, very close to my hotel. I got lost anyway. So, I have learned that when I am disoriented in a large city, the best recourse is to go to the nearest café, order a glass of wine, and contemplate my surroundings while discretely consulting my little map. It works every time and today was no exception. Although I am embarrassed to say that I was ridiculously close to my hotel when I got lost. I ended up having dinner at Café de Paris Brasserie, on rue de Buci, in the neighborhood. By now I knew to skip the starter so I had the roast chicken seasoned with rosemary and served with roasted potatoes and a small green salad. A bottle of Evian and a petit pichet of Sancerre and I was happy. The waiter seated a solo gentleman diner at the table next me (which was essentially in my lap), and he turned out to be a lovely dinner companion. He was a clinical oncologist from Montréal, here for a medical conference near Versailles. We had a great conversation around politics, his view of racism in Canada, the pros and cons of nationalized healthcare (he seems to feel that there are more negatives), and marriage and divorce. I thoroughly enjoyed the conversation and it came for free with my 39 euro dinner. Next up, my last full day…
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