Southern Italy and Sicily by Car, Fall 2008
Nov 20, 2009 5:13:42 GMT
Post by Kimby on Nov 20, 2009 5:13:42 GMT
This was originally written for another travel forum (hey, this one didn't exist then!) As I try to motivate to write up a travelog for our recent Australia Trip, I've looked to past travelogs for inspiration...
Trip Description: Highlights of a fast travel driving tour going from Rome to Umbria to Puglia and ending in Sicily.
General Notes: We are not your typical Slow Travelers. After the first few days in Rome we traveled by rental car, staying only one night in each location until the end of the trip. Our lodgings, though inexpensive, were in central locations and always had their own shower and toilet; breakfast was included about half the time. Except for Rome, we traveled without reservations – it was +/- low season - and almost all of the hotels & B&Bs we chose were listed in Lonely Planet, though we often checked out other lodgings, too. We picnicked at lunchtime nearly every day, and ate dinner out almost every night, about half the time at Italian restaurants and half the time at cheaper pizzerias, tavalos caldos or ethnic take outs. We rarely ordered wine in restaurants, having whiled away the time before the restaurants opened (late by American standards, 7:30 or later) by relaxing and drinking wine in our room. We had an excellent trip, and highly recommend Southern Italy and Sicily as a travel destination.
Italy Travelogue - October 25 – Nov. 14, 2008
Day 1&2 – Travel Day
Free tickets on Northwest/KLM (viaMSP/AMS/Rome), arriving 8:30pm next day. Express train (€11 each) to Termini, short walk to Evergreen B&B (€80), our home for three nights, four rooms and a small lobby with free Internet computer, and a 24-hour receptionist who sleeps on a pallet behind the desk. Our room is taller than it is wide, but clean and serviceable, and the location is extremely convenient for our purposes. Last time in Rome (1997) we stayed in a small hotel near the Vatican. The sites we want to see this time are located east of the River.
Day 3 – Rome’s Churches & Monuments
After “breakfast” which was included in our B&B rate, but consisted of a ticket for a cappuccino and a pastry in the basement “bar” next door, we walked all over central Rome visiting churches and other free sites: Santa Maria Maggiore (432 AD, with 15th c. coffered ceiling gilded with gold from the New World, and a shrine under the altar with fragments from Christ’s manger); San Prassede (Byzantine mosaics from AD 822); San Pietro in Vincoli (440 AD with enshrined chains of St. Peter and unfinished but stunning Michelangelo tomb built for Pope Julius); San Clemente (a three-level archeological site with 12th century church built over a 5th century church built over a Roman house, €5 fee for lower levels and closed during the siesta, which we had discovered to our chagrin in 1997); a walk through Roman Rome (Colosseum, Arch of Constantine, Trajan’s Column, Pantheon; and finally St. Peters, where, since our last visit, Pope John the 23rd has been disinterred and enshrined in a glass sarcophagus! There were large rallies and marches today, protesting insufficiencies in higher education. It was raining when we left St. Peters, so took the Metro six stops to Termini and our B&B. Cocktail hour in the room before going out for dinner (kebabs at an inexpensive restaurant) and grocery shopping at the nearest supermercado.
Day 4 – Roman Museums
Walked to National Museo of Rome in the Palazzo Massimo, four levels of sculptures, mostly, plus mosaics, coins and jewelry. Walking north to the Villa Borghese, we stumbled upon the Santa Maria degli Angeli, a grand Michelangelo-designed church built over Roman baths in 1561. Arrived late for our scheduled entry time at the Galleria Borghese, but they hadn’t yet given away our prepaid tickets, fortunately. (They allow 360 people to enter every two hours by prepaid reservation, €9.50 each.) The Galleria is in a lavishly decorated Palazzo and features exquisite art, including Bernini sculptures (David, Apollo & Daphne, Rape of Proserpine), Canova’s Venus, and a painting gallery upstairs. Walked through the Villa Borghese park with its broccoli-shaped pine trees and flocks of parrots to Piazza del Popolo and its namesake church, then to the Spanish Steps, where we were overtaken by a downpour while admiring the view of swirling flocks of birds heading to their nightly roost. The Metro stations were packed and steamy, so we decided to walk, getting turned around multiple times before getting home, soaked to the skin. After cocktail hour and a nap in the room, we headed out for dinner at the Bruno (€21) around the corner. Another downpour, and more wet clothes, on the way back to the room.
Day 5 – To Umbria
Visited the Baths of Diocletian (our National Museo pass was good for four buildings) before picking up our rental car at the Termini Station (actually, the cars are housed on the seventh floor of a parking structure several blocks away, though the Hertz and Avis desks are at Termini). Drove the Nissan Micra through the chaos of Roman traffic a roundabout route to the A1 and northward to Spoleto, 120 miles away. Visited the Duomo while waiting for the tourist office to reopen after the siesta. Got a room with a view at the Hotel il Panciolle (€65). Ate dinner at a pizza place down the street. Raining yet again, with thunder and lightning.
Day 6 – Umbria
After breakfast in the hotel’s salon, walked to the Ponte delle Tori, Spoleto’s claim to fame, a 14th c. bridge that may have been built over the ruins of a roman aqueduct. Crossed the bridge and hiked the trails on the other side, revisited the Duomo and set out for Spello, where we walked all over the narrow stepped streets of the town, visiting churches and weathering another storm. Onward to Assisi, and its main church, which was closed during our last visit in 1997 because of the big earthquake. Three levels, with an underground crypt, plus a lower and upper basilica, with the famous fresco cycle by Giotto, all beautifully restored. Walked through Assisi town to the Temple of Minerva, now a Christian church. Drove to Gubbio over a pass with pretty autumn colors and scenery. (Total mileage for the day, 70 miles.) The red carpet was being rolled out in Gubbio, literally. We’d arrived on the opening day of the White Truffles Festival! Shortly after checking in at the Residenza di Via Piccardi (€55), we ran into a medieval parade with couples dressed like the Capulets and Montagues parading between drummers and trumpeters clad in tights and tunics and a troop of flag bearers. Followed the procession to the main square and watched an impressive flag-tossing demonstration. Ate dinner at Osteria dei Rei, a restaurant in a wine grotto, where we ordered a sampler plate of antipasti for two (€31).
Day 7 – Gubbio & Urbino
After typical Italian breakfast, wandered/climbed the streets of Gubbio to the white limestone Duomo and Palazzo Ducale, then walked down on terraced trails through a park. Also visited the tented truffle pavilion to see all the local products and sample the truffle paste, cheeses and boar sausage. Headed northeast 43 miles to Urbino in the Marches, a steep little town with an ochre-colored brick Duomo with white-washed Neoclassical interior. We toured the Renaissance Palazzo Ducale (€4 each), now an art museum. Found a room at the Albergo Italia (€70), a real hotel with an elevator and CNN & BBC. Dinner at Il Coppiere (€27).
Day 8 – Urbino to Ascoli Piceno
A breakfast buffet! With eggs! Headed for the Adriatic Sea at Pesaro where we walked on the beach. On November first! We love stretching out our summer by traveling in the late fall, and didn’t miss the thousands of Speedo-clad Europeans on the beach, either. Tried to drive the coastal highways, but too much stop and go traffic, and the view isn’t much different from the adjacent autostrada toll-road. The shoreline is much more built up than it looks on the map, almost wall to wall hotels, apartments, beach houses, etc. At Porto Ascoli, we headed inland 34 km to Ascoli Piceno (total of 162 miles today) and navigated the narrow streets to find a hotel for the night, Cantina del Arte (€50 without breakfast). Set out to see the town with its two major piazzas, each with a major church and a major public building, right at the time of the passagiata, the evening stroll. Stumbled on a restaurant filled with locals called Garden Rose: good food, cheap prices, slow service.
Day 9 – Along the Coast
After seeing Ascoli Piceno’s sights – Roman bridge, medieval towers, churches – and hitting the supermarket, we headed back to the coast for the long drive to the Gargano Peninsula, the “bump on the heel of the boot.” Lots of vineyards and olive orchards along the way. The olive harvest is under way. Left the autostrada at Lesina, and drove along the lagoon to Torre Mileto on the sea. Walked the beach past forlorn-looking closed-up swim concessions, finding shells and glassy fishing weights. Found a better deserted beach on the strand between the second lagoon and the sea, reached by a path through a pine forest. Stopped for the night at Rodi Garganico, at Hotel Riviera (€60), a practically empty hotel across from the beach. Our fourth floor room has a balcony overlooking the sea. Ate dinner at a pizzeria in town.
Day 10 – Gargano Peninsula
Breakfast buffet at the Riviera, not as sumptuous as the one in Urbino. Checked out and drove to the Foresta Umbra, a remnant forest of beeches, oaks, maples plus a few pines. Walked a couple trails, listening to cow bells through the woods, shuffled through fallen autumn leaves, admired the deer at the Visitor Center, and headed back to the coast. Stopped for picnic lunch at a beach with a torre, a band of goats, and fishnet floats washed up on shore. Followed the coast around the peninsula, seeing several wild sheep resembling Montana’s bighorns, then turned inland to Mont St. Angelo (total of 98 miles today). This town was swarming with tourists and buses, but was not without charm. Found a room at Hotel Michael (€65) with a view of the old quarter and Santa Maria Maggiore’s portal below. We both had colds and didn’t feel like venturing out for dinner, so heated water for instant soup, cheese, sausage and crackers and fruit in the room.
Day 11 – To Puglia
Visited the Sanctuary St. Michel, dropping down 90 marble steps into a grotto where the Archangel Michael appeared in 490 AD, and pilgrims have been coming here for centuries ever since. Arrived while candlelit Mass was in progress, increasing the atmosphere of the shrine. Photographed graffiti from the 16th & 17th centuries along the staircase. Small museum full of artwork depicting miracles attributed to St. Michael: scenes of car wrecks, near-drownings, war-time bombings, etc. Drove out of town and down dozens of switchbacks back to the autostrada. Headed south to Matera, a city of cave-dwellings called “sassi,” that served as the setting for Mel Gibson’s Passion of the Christ, losing ourselves multiple times in the labyrinth of narrow stairs and alleys. (The tourist office was closed for siesta, as usual, so we couldn’t get a map. Grrr.) Lots of construction/renovations going on, lots of cranes, closed buildings, noise, etc. The increased tourism after the movie has produced an influx of money for improvements and preservation. Onward to Alberobello, a town full of toadstool-shaped rustic stone “trulli” houses, many of which are converted to hotels or B&Bs. We checked into the Trullidea (€60), and got our own self-catering trulli house. Our hostess sent us to La Laconda di Don Antonio for dinner (€26), a good choice in a converted stable, with jazz music off the Internet for ambiance. (185 miles today)
Day 12 – To the Toe of the Boot
We need to head to Sicily soon, so after breakfast and a walking tour of Alberobello, and inquiring about the US election results at the front desk, we reluctantly decided to skip the baroque town of Lecce and drive toward the ferry landing. Headed south via Locorotondo and Martina Franca toward Taranto on the Ionian Sea, stopping for lunch along the shore at Montegiordano Marina. Turned inland and hopped on the A3 autostrada (no tolls on this stretch). Lots of road construction, huge tunnels being bored, and immense viaducts. Italian engineers are able to shoehorn major highways into valleys and through mountains in a way that US environmental regulations would never permit. But it sure makes for easy driving. The scenery in this part of Italy reminds us of Santa Barbara, California. As we neared the toe of Italy’s boot, we decided to stop overnight in Scilla, one of our favorite towns of the trip, rather than rush to the ferry and arrive on Sicily with impending dark and no hotel reservations in touristy Taormina. (255 miles today.)
Scilla is a cute hillside town with a castle on a rock promontory and a medieval fishing village with narrow lanes that we almost got our car stuck in, looking for a hotel. We stayed at the Albergo le Sirene (€60), with a balcony and terrace overlooking the Marina Grand, a wide sandy beach. We can see Sicily from our windows. And impressive lightning bolts, too, as another storm is upon us. After the storm, and wine on the covered terrace, we headed to the medieval quarter, Chianalea, for dinner at Bleu dei Toi. But since they don’t open till 8 pm, we took a long walk up 300+ stairs to the top of the town beforehand. Dinner of swordfish rolls (€30) was worth the wait.
Day 13 – To Sicily
My birthday! Drove the 10km to Villa San Giovanni and the ferry dock for Sicily. Our ferry fare for the car was €32, and we think we were ripped off, since we’d read it should be around €14. Rain has eased and blue skies are returning. Upon landing in Messina, we headed south for Taormina and found a place to park near the top of the tram from the beach. Taormina was “discovered” long ago, and has all the boutiques and cafes a stop on the European grand tour should have. But it still has lots of charm, history (including a Greek theater) and a stunning setting with lovely parks. On a clear day, they tell us, you can see Mt. Etna above the town. We’ll take their word for it, as it was socked in while we were there.
Onward to Syracuse = Siracusa, and Ortigia Island, our overnight stop for tonight (119 miles for the day). Our lodgings, from the Fodors guide this time, was the Airone B&B, connected with and above the Hotel Aurora, right on the sea. We got a special price on the “penthouse” with a private roof terrace (€55). Our room under the roof rafters was 90 steps up from street level, with a dozen more up to the terrace. Went for a walk in the old quarter, visiting the Duomo which has incorporated columns from a 5th century BC temple to Athena. The Piazza del Duomo reminded us of Ascoli Piceno. Walked to the Aretusa Fontane, an artesian upwelling with mythic origins involving a goddess who spurned unwanted advances by turning into an underground stream. Found a rare restaurant that would seat us at 6:30, La Locandiera (€29 for the menu del giorno).
Day 14 – Siracusa to Licata
After breakfast in the Hotel Aurora’s dining room, visited Siracusa’s archeological park (€8 each) with its Greek theater, Roman amphitheater, and other ruins. The reputedly excellent museum was closed for renovations. Headed inland for Piazza Armerina to see the Roman mosaics at Villa Casale. Took us till 3pm to get there, and then we found that the villa was closed four days earlier for restorations lasting until February. What rotten timing. No other reason to be here, in our opinion, so headed back to the coast at Licata, NOT a tourist town. (Total driving was 148 miles today.) Found Giralamo B&B (€60 without breakfast) on a tiny church square and were given a charming self-catering room on the ground floor.
Day 15 – Greek Temples
A blue sky sunny day. Hit the road for Agrigento after breakfast on our own in the room (B&B would have been €70) and arrived at the Valle dei Templi = Valley of the Temples before the tour buses. A €10 combo ticket gets you into both the ruins and the excellent archeological museum. Nice morning light for photographing the temples.
Posed a self-portrait for our Christmas card in front of the best temples, sitting on the roots of a centuries-old olive tree.
The museum was filled with craters, Greek and Roman helmets, sarcophagi, etc. Onward to Selinunte, about 100km up the coast, stopping for a beach walk at Seccagrande, a rare undeveloped beach made of pebbles and rather hard to walk on. Stopped for the night at Marinella at a LP-listed hotel called Lido Azzurro (€50 without breakfast), a bit run-down, but with private balcony overlooking the sea. Ate seafood dinners at Olympo restaurant (€27).
Day 16 – More Greek temples
Drove 2km to ruins of Selinunte, a 7th century BC city (€6 each). One really well restored temple, plus other piles of rocks and broken columns. Headed north to Segesta, picnicking along the road before the park (€6 each). Segesta has a fabulously restored temple on one hill and a restored Greek theater on the top of an adjacent hill. Though you can buy a shuttle bus ride to the top, there are trails that get you there on foot, allowing photo opportunities you wouldn’t have on the bus. Onward to Erice, a charming little town on top of a 2500 foot tall bluff by the sea. We got a room at Villa San Giovanni, a diocesan-run hotel/conference center connected with the church of the same name. Our room (€70) had a spectacular view of Mt. Cafano and Capo San Vito and came with breakfast. We ate dinner at a “tavalo caldo” (referred to as “fast food” by the hotel receptionist). Walked the stone-paved streets to the castle, all lit up at night. (79 miles today.)
Day 17 – Erice & Zingaro Natural Reserve
Found out Alitalia’s pilots are striking, so scrambled to rebook our flight off Sicily in four days. Left Erice after taking another stroll through this quaint town, another of our favorites of the trip, and headed to Scopello, the southern portal to Lo Zingaro Reserve. Packed a lunch and set off on the cliff-side trails heading north toward Capo San Vito. Side trails led down to beaches in tiny coves, other trails connected to a higher inland trail. Hiked 5 – 6 km, till we could see the cars parked at the other end, then turned back and retraced our steps to the car. Drove back to Scopello and got a room at a B&B called Le Grotto (€45 without breakfast), with a terrace with sea views. Tried to go out to dinner, but on Monday night ALL of the restaurants in Scopello are closed! More cheese, crackers and soup in the room. (Only 31 miles today)
Day 18 – Monreale & Palermo
Drove to Monreale and found a parking place that turned out to be a loading zone or something, and got our only parking ticket of the trip. (As of 12/26, we still haven’t been billed for it by Hertz.) The Duomo/Cathedral at Monreale is a 12th century Norman church with 70,000 square feet of Byzantine mosaics. Very impressive. But not lit up. There are coin machines that turn on the lights, €1 for five minutes, but we had no coins. And no one else, including the many tour guides, bothered to turn on the lights, either. Mystifying. (Fortunately, our dim digital photographs could be enhanced digitally to make out the nave mosaics.) Next we headed only as far into Palermo as necessary to see the Cappuchin Catacombs (€1.5 each), a 16th century burial chamber for 8000 corpses, many hanging on the walls, mummified in their funeral finery. Hit the road for Cefalu, the only place where we spent two nights, an hour’s drive away, the last few miles a toll road (91 miles today).
Looking for lodgings, we saw an old wooden door facing Via Vittorio Emmanuel, with a sign saying “affita camera” on it, and the hostess came through the door as we stood there pondering where to find a phone to call the number on the sign. What a find! La Fenice B&B (€55) was almost brand new, but up 50 steps in a 16th century building, four rooms with a shared lounge and shared kitchen. Warm afternoon. Drank wine on our mini-balcony as the sun set, then walked to the Duomo, similar to but nowhere near as fine as Monreale’s, but its golden facade towers over the picturesque town of Cefalu. A charming setting. Brought rotisserie chicken home to the B&B for dinner. A whole chicken and mountain of fries for €8!
Day 19 – Cefalu
Walked along the seawall on a path cemented into the rocky shoreline all the way to the other end of town. Then climbed up 300+ stairs and many sloping streets to the top of the cliff towering above Cefalu, ”La Rocca,” and a temple of Diana. Circled the top of the bluff on paths with many deer tracks, and spectacular views in all directions. This evening we attended a Teatro dei Pupi (puppet theater) with a hand-cranked band organ and sword-fighting knights and swarthy Arab puppets, operated by three men. Had dinner at a restaurant (€27) with sidewalk seating, enclosed against the weather in clear vinyl. Watched the full moon rise above the Duomo, sitting on a bench at Cefalu’s central square. A rare relaxing day, zero miles driven.
Day 20 – Cinisi
Watched Cefalu come to life as we waited for the Internet spot to open (wanting to make sure our flights tomorrow will be operating): a guy selling fish from a wheelbarrow, workmen roping buckets of sand and cement to second story balconies, grannies walking babies in strollers, fashionable ladies teetering on cobblestones in high-heeled boots, an aging former beauty in a house-dress selling produce in full makeup. When we went to get the car from where we’d left it two days ago, it had been moved. Not a mark on it and no ticket, either. It was apparently moved by workmen who needed access to the building we’d parked in front of. They just picked it up and set it down about 30 feet away! Hit the highway toward the airport and beyond, bypassing Palermo on our way to Cinisi for the night. Il Pirati Hotel (€50 without breakfast), was located near the end of Palermo Airport’s runway, a 15 minute drive from the airport. (important when your flight leaves at 6:30am) Took a walk on Cinisi’s beach, along crumbling cliffs. Had panini for dinner at a bar near the hotel, then drove into town to fill up the car. Nearly got T-boned at a dark intersection in a blinding rainstorm on our way back to the hotel. The other guy ran a stop sign. Spent the rest of the evening re-packing for tomorrow’s flights and turned in early. (87 miles total)
Day 21 – Homeward
Turned in the rental car in the dark (2981 km total = 1789 miles), flew Alitalia from Palermo to Rome, then KLM to Amsterdam, with stunning views of snow-covered Alps as we left Italian airspace. Nine hour NW flight to MSP, and finally home.
Trip highlights:
Gubbio and its truffle festival
Ascoli Piceno’s squares
Scillo’s castle on a rock and medieval fishing quarter
Clifftop Erice’s stunning views
Cefalu’s golden duomo and setting below La Rocca
Trip Description: Highlights of a fast travel driving tour going from Rome to Umbria to Puglia and ending in Sicily.
General Notes: We are not your typical Slow Travelers. After the first few days in Rome we traveled by rental car, staying only one night in each location until the end of the trip. Our lodgings, though inexpensive, were in central locations and always had their own shower and toilet; breakfast was included about half the time. Except for Rome, we traveled without reservations – it was +/- low season - and almost all of the hotels & B&Bs we chose were listed in Lonely Planet, though we often checked out other lodgings, too. We picnicked at lunchtime nearly every day, and ate dinner out almost every night, about half the time at Italian restaurants and half the time at cheaper pizzerias, tavalos caldos or ethnic take outs. We rarely ordered wine in restaurants, having whiled away the time before the restaurants opened (late by American standards, 7:30 or later) by relaxing and drinking wine in our room. We had an excellent trip, and highly recommend Southern Italy and Sicily as a travel destination.
Italy Travelogue - October 25 – Nov. 14, 2008
Day 1&2 – Travel Day
Free tickets on Northwest/KLM (viaMSP/AMS/Rome), arriving 8:30pm next day. Express train (€11 each) to Termini, short walk to Evergreen B&B (€80), our home for three nights, four rooms and a small lobby with free Internet computer, and a 24-hour receptionist who sleeps on a pallet behind the desk. Our room is taller than it is wide, but clean and serviceable, and the location is extremely convenient for our purposes. Last time in Rome (1997) we stayed in a small hotel near the Vatican. The sites we want to see this time are located east of the River.
Day 3 – Rome’s Churches & Monuments
After “breakfast” which was included in our B&B rate, but consisted of a ticket for a cappuccino and a pastry in the basement “bar” next door, we walked all over central Rome visiting churches and other free sites: Santa Maria Maggiore (432 AD, with 15th c. coffered ceiling gilded with gold from the New World, and a shrine under the altar with fragments from Christ’s manger); San Prassede (Byzantine mosaics from AD 822); San Pietro in Vincoli (440 AD with enshrined chains of St. Peter and unfinished but stunning Michelangelo tomb built for Pope Julius); San Clemente (a three-level archeological site with 12th century church built over a 5th century church built over a Roman house, €5 fee for lower levels and closed during the siesta, which we had discovered to our chagrin in 1997); a walk through Roman Rome (Colosseum, Arch of Constantine, Trajan’s Column, Pantheon; and finally St. Peters, where, since our last visit, Pope John the 23rd has been disinterred and enshrined in a glass sarcophagus! There were large rallies and marches today, protesting insufficiencies in higher education. It was raining when we left St. Peters, so took the Metro six stops to Termini and our B&B. Cocktail hour in the room before going out for dinner (kebabs at an inexpensive restaurant) and grocery shopping at the nearest supermercado.
Day 4 – Roman Museums
Walked to National Museo of Rome in the Palazzo Massimo, four levels of sculptures, mostly, plus mosaics, coins and jewelry. Walking north to the Villa Borghese, we stumbled upon the Santa Maria degli Angeli, a grand Michelangelo-designed church built over Roman baths in 1561. Arrived late for our scheduled entry time at the Galleria Borghese, but they hadn’t yet given away our prepaid tickets, fortunately. (They allow 360 people to enter every two hours by prepaid reservation, €9.50 each.) The Galleria is in a lavishly decorated Palazzo and features exquisite art, including Bernini sculptures (David, Apollo & Daphne, Rape of Proserpine), Canova’s Venus, and a painting gallery upstairs. Walked through the Villa Borghese park with its broccoli-shaped pine trees and flocks of parrots to Piazza del Popolo and its namesake church, then to the Spanish Steps, where we were overtaken by a downpour while admiring the view of swirling flocks of birds heading to their nightly roost. The Metro stations were packed and steamy, so we decided to walk, getting turned around multiple times before getting home, soaked to the skin. After cocktail hour and a nap in the room, we headed out for dinner at the Bruno (€21) around the corner. Another downpour, and more wet clothes, on the way back to the room.
Day 5 – To Umbria
Visited the Baths of Diocletian (our National Museo pass was good for four buildings) before picking up our rental car at the Termini Station (actually, the cars are housed on the seventh floor of a parking structure several blocks away, though the Hertz and Avis desks are at Termini). Drove the Nissan Micra through the chaos of Roman traffic a roundabout route to the A1 and northward to Spoleto, 120 miles away. Visited the Duomo while waiting for the tourist office to reopen after the siesta. Got a room with a view at the Hotel il Panciolle (€65). Ate dinner at a pizza place down the street. Raining yet again, with thunder and lightning.
Day 6 – Umbria
After breakfast in the hotel’s salon, walked to the Ponte delle Tori, Spoleto’s claim to fame, a 14th c. bridge that may have been built over the ruins of a roman aqueduct. Crossed the bridge and hiked the trails on the other side, revisited the Duomo and set out for Spello, where we walked all over the narrow stepped streets of the town, visiting churches and weathering another storm. Onward to Assisi, and its main church, which was closed during our last visit in 1997 because of the big earthquake. Three levels, with an underground crypt, plus a lower and upper basilica, with the famous fresco cycle by Giotto, all beautifully restored. Walked through Assisi town to the Temple of Minerva, now a Christian church. Drove to Gubbio over a pass with pretty autumn colors and scenery. (Total mileage for the day, 70 miles.) The red carpet was being rolled out in Gubbio, literally. We’d arrived on the opening day of the White Truffles Festival! Shortly after checking in at the Residenza di Via Piccardi (€55), we ran into a medieval parade with couples dressed like the Capulets and Montagues parading between drummers and trumpeters clad in tights and tunics and a troop of flag bearers. Followed the procession to the main square and watched an impressive flag-tossing demonstration. Ate dinner at Osteria dei Rei, a restaurant in a wine grotto, where we ordered a sampler plate of antipasti for two (€31).
Day 7 – Gubbio & Urbino
After typical Italian breakfast, wandered/climbed the streets of Gubbio to the white limestone Duomo and Palazzo Ducale, then walked down on terraced trails through a park. Also visited the tented truffle pavilion to see all the local products and sample the truffle paste, cheeses and boar sausage. Headed northeast 43 miles to Urbino in the Marches, a steep little town with an ochre-colored brick Duomo with white-washed Neoclassical interior. We toured the Renaissance Palazzo Ducale (€4 each), now an art museum. Found a room at the Albergo Italia (€70), a real hotel with an elevator and CNN & BBC. Dinner at Il Coppiere (€27).
Day 8 – Urbino to Ascoli Piceno
A breakfast buffet! With eggs! Headed for the Adriatic Sea at Pesaro where we walked on the beach. On November first! We love stretching out our summer by traveling in the late fall, and didn’t miss the thousands of Speedo-clad Europeans on the beach, either. Tried to drive the coastal highways, but too much stop and go traffic, and the view isn’t much different from the adjacent autostrada toll-road. The shoreline is much more built up than it looks on the map, almost wall to wall hotels, apartments, beach houses, etc. At Porto Ascoli, we headed inland 34 km to Ascoli Piceno (total of 162 miles today) and navigated the narrow streets to find a hotel for the night, Cantina del Arte (€50 without breakfast). Set out to see the town with its two major piazzas, each with a major church and a major public building, right at the time of the passagiata, the evening stroll. Stumbled on a restaurant filled with locals called Garden Rose: good food, cheap prices, slow service.
Day 9 – Along the Coast
After seeing Ascoli Piceno’s sights – Roman bridge, medieval towers, churches – and hitting the supermarket, we headed back to the coast for the long drive to the Gargano Peninsula, the “bump on the heel of the boot.” Lots of vineyards and olive orchards along the way. The olive harvest is under way. Left the autostrada at Lesina, and drove along the lagoon to Torre Mileto on the sea. Walked the beach past forlorn-looking closed-up swim concessions, finding shells and glassy fishing weights. Found a better deserted beach on the strand between the second lagoon and the sea, reached by a path through a pine forest. Stopped for the night at Rodi Garganico, at Hotel Riviera (€60), a practically empty hotel across from the beach. Our fourth floor room has a balcony overlooking the sea. Ate dinner at a pizzeria in town.
Day 10 – Gargano Peninsula
Breakfast buffet at the Riviera, not as sumptuous as the one in Urbino. Checked out and drove to the Foresta Umbra, a remnant forest of beeches, oaks, maples plus a few pines. Walked a couple trails, listening to cow bells through the woods, shuffled through fallen autumn leaves, admired the deer at the Visitor Center, and headed back to the coast. Stopped for picnic lunch at a beach with a torre, a band of goats, and fishnet floats washed up on shore. Followed the coast around the peninsula, seeing several wild sheep resembling Montana’s bighorns, then turned inland to Mont St. Angelo (total of 98 miles today). This town was swarming with tourists and buses, but was not without charm. Found a room at Hotel Michael (€65) with a view of the old quarter and Santa Maria Maggiore’s portal below. We both had colds and didn’t feel like venturing out for dinner, so heated water for instant soup, cheese, sausage and crackers and fruit in the room.
Day 11 – To Puglia
Visited the Sanctuary St. Michel, dropping down 90 marble steps into a grotto where the Archangel Michael appeared in 490 AD, and pilgrims have been coming here for centuries ever since. Arrived while candlelit Mass was in progress, increasing the atmosphere of the shrine. Photographed graffiti from the 16th & 17th centuries along the staircase. Small museum full of artwork depicting miracles attributed to St. Michael: scenes of car wrecks, near-drownings, war-time bombings, etc. Drove out of town and down dozens of switchbacks back to the autostrada. Headed south to Matera, a city of cave-dwellings called “sassi,” that served as the setting for Mel Gibson’s Passion of the Christ, losing ourselves multiple times in the labyrinth of narrow stairs and alleys. (The tourist office was closed for siesta, as usual, so we couldn’t get a map. Grrr.) Lots of construction/renovations going on, lots of cranes, closed buildings, noise, etc. The increased tourism after the movie has produced an influx of money for improvements and preservation. Onward to Alberobello, a town full of toadstool-shaped rustic stone “trulli” houses, many of which are converted to hotels or B&Bs. We checked into the Trullidea (€60), and got our own self-catering trulli house. Our hostess sent us to La Laconda di Don Antonio for dinner (€26), a good choice in a converted stable, with jazz music off the Internet for ambiance. (185 miles today)
Day 12 – To the Toe of the Boot
We need to head to Sicily soon, so after breakfast and a walking tour of Alberobello, and inquiring about the US election results at the front desk, we reluctantly decided to skip the baroque town of Lecce and drive toward the ferry landing. Headed south via Locorotondo and Martina Franca toward Taranto on the Ionian Sea, stopping for lunch along the shore at Montegiordano Marina. Turned inland and hopped on the A3 autostrada (no tolls on this stretch). Lots of road construction, huge tunnels being bored, and immense viaducts. Italian engineers are able to shoehorn major highways into valleys and through mountains in a way that US environmental regulations would never permit. But it sure makes for easy driving. The scenery in this part of Italy reminds us of Santa Barbara, California. As we neared the toe of Italy’s boot, we decided to stop overnight in Scilla, one of our favorite towns of the trip, rather than rush to the ferry and arrive on Sicily with impending dark and no hotel reservations in touristy Taormina. (255 miles today.)
Scilla is a cute hillside town with a castle on a rock promontory and a medieval fishing village with narrow lanes that we almost got our car stuck in, looking for a hotel. We stayed at the Albergo le Sirene (€60), with a balcony and terrace overlooking the Marina Grand, a wide sandy beach. We can see Sicily from our windows. And impressive lightning bolts, too, as another storm is upon us. After the storm, and wine on the covered terrace, we headed to the medieval quarter, Chianalea, for dinner at Bleu dei Toi. But since they don’t open till 8 pm, we took a long walk up 300+ stairs to the top of the town beforehand. Dinner of swordfish rolls (€30) was worth the wait.
Day 13 – To Sicily
My birthday! Drove the 10km to Villa San Giovanni and the ferry dock for Sicily. Our ferry fare for the car was €32, and we think we were ripped off, since we’d read it should be around €14. Rain has eased and blue skies are returning. Upon landing in Messina, we headed south for Taormina and found a place to park near the top of the tram from the beach. Taormina was “discovered” long ago, and has all the boutiques and cafes a stop on the European grand tour should have. But it still has lots of charm, history (including a Greek theater) and a stunning setting with lovely parks. On a clear day, they tell us, you can see Mt. Etna above the town. We’ll take their word for it, as it was socked in while we were there.
Onward to Syracuse = Siracusa, and Ortigia Island, our overnight stop for tonight (119 miles for the day). Our lodgings, from the Fodors guide this time, was the Airone B&B, connected with and above the Hotel Aurora, right on the sea. We got a special price on the “penthouse” with a private roof terrace (€55). Our room under the roof rafters was 90 steps up from street level, with a dozen more up to the terrace. Went for a walk in the old quarter, visiting the Duomo which has incorporated columns from a 5th century BC temple to Athena. The Piazza del Duomo reminded us of Ascoli Piceno. Walked to the Aretusa Fontane, an artesian upwelling with mythic origins involving a goddess who spurned unwanted advances by turning into an underground stream. Found a rare restaurant that would seat us at 6:30, La Locandiera (€29 for the menu del giorno).
Day 14 – Siracusa to Licata
After breakfast in the Hotel Aurora’s dining room, visited Siracusa’s archeological park (€8 each) with its Greek theater, Roman amphitheater, and other ruins. The reputedly excellent museum was closed for renovations. Headed inland for Piazza Armerina to see the Roman mosaics at Villa Casale. Took us till 3pm to get there, and then we found that the villa was closed four days earlier for restorations lasting until February. What rotten timing. No other reason to be here, in our opinion, so headed back to the coast at Licata, NOT a tourist town. (Total driving was 148 miles today.) Found Giralamo B&B (€60 without breakfast) on a tiny church square and were given a charming self-catering room on the ground floor.
Day 15 – Greek Temples
A blue sky sunny day. Hit the road for Agrigento after breakfast on our own in the room (B&B would have been €70) and arrived at the Valle dei Templi = Valley of the Temples before the tour buses. A €10 combo ticket gets you into both the ruins and the excellent archeological museum. Nice morning light for photographing the temples.
Posed a self-portrait for our Christmas card in front of the best temples, sitting on the roots of a centuries-old olive tree.
The museum was filled with craters, Greek and Roman helmets, sarcophagi, etc. Onward to Selinunte, about 100km up the coast, stopping for a beach walk at Seccagrande, a rare undeveloped beach made of pebbles and rather hard to walk on. Stopped for the night at Marinella at a LP-listed hotel called Lido Azzurro (€50 without breakfast), a bit run-down, but with private balcony overlooking the sea. Ate seafood dinners at Olympo restaurant (€27).
Day 16 – More Greek temples
Drove 2km to ruins of Selinunte, a 7th century BC city (€6 each). One really well restored temple, plus other piles of rocks and broken columns. Headed north to Segesta, picnicking along the road before the park (€6 each). Segesta has a fabulously restored temple on one hill and a restored Greek theater on the top of an adjacent hill. Though you can buy a shuttle bus ride to the top, there are trails that get you there on foot, allowing photo opportunities you wouldn’t have on the bus. Onward to Erice, a charming little town on top of a 2500 foot tall bluff by the sea. We got a room at Villa San Giovanni, a diocesan-run hotel/conference center connected with the church of the same name. Our room (€70) had a spectacular view of Mt. Cafano and Capo San Vito and came with breakfast. We ate dinner at a “tavalo caldo” (referred to as “fast food” by the hotel receptionist). Walked the stone-paved streets to the castle, all lit up at night. (79 miles today.)
Day 17 – Erice & Zingaro Natural Reserve
Found out Alitalia’s pilots are striking, so scrambled to rebook our flight off Sicily in four days. Left Erice after taking another stroll through this quaint town, another of our favorites of the trip, and headed to Scopello, the southern portal to Lo Zingaro Reserve. Packed a lunch and set off on the cliff-side trails heading north toward Capo San Vito. Side trails led down to beaches in tiny coves, other trails connected to a higher inland trail. Hiked 5 – 6 km, till we could see the cars parked at the other end, then turned back and retraced our steps to the car. Drove back to Scopello and got a room at a B&B called Le Grotto (€45 without breakfast), with a terrace with sea views. Tried to go out to dinner, but on Monday night ALL of the restaurants in Scopello are closed! More cheese, crackers and soup in the room. (Only 31 miles today)
Day 18 – Monreale & Palermo
Drove to Monreale and found a parking place that turned out to be a loading zone or something, and got our only parking ticket of the trip. (As of 12/26, we still haven’t been billed for it by Hertz.) The Duomo/Cathedral at Monreale is a 12th century Norman church with 70,000 square feet of Byzantine mosaics. Very impressive. But not lit up. There are coin machines that turn on the lights, €1 for five minutes, but we had no coins. And no one else, including the many tour guides, bothered to turn on the lights, either. Mystifying. (Fortunately, our dim digital photographs could be enhanced digitally to make out the nave mosaics.) Next we headed only as far into Palermo as necessary to see the Cappuchin Catacombs (€1.5 each), a 16th century burial chamber for 8000 corpses, many hanging on the walls, mummified in their funeral finery. Hit the road for Cefalu, the only place where we spent two nights, an hour’s drive away, the last few miles a toll road (91 miles today).
Looking for lodgings, we saw an old wooden door facing Via Vittorio Emmanuel, with a sign saying “affita camera” on it, and the hostess came through the door as we stood there pondering where to find a phone to call the number on the sign. What a find! La Fenice B&B (€55) was almost brand new, but up 50 steps in a 16th century building, four rooms with a shared lounge and shared kitchen. Warm afternoon. Drank wine on our mini-balcony as the sun set, then walked to the Duomo, similar to but nowhere near as fine as Monreale’s, but its golden facade towers over the picturesque town of Cefalu. A charming setting. Brought rotisserie chicken home to the B&B for dinner. A whole chicken and mountain of fries for €8!
Day 19 – Cefalu
Walked along the seawall on a path cemented into the rocky shoreline all the way to the other end of town. Then climbed up 300+ stairs and many sloping streets to the top of the cliff towering above Cefalu, ”La Rocca,” and a temple of Diana. Circled the top of the bluff on paths with many deer tracks, and spectacular views in all directions. This evening we attended a Teatro dei Pupi (puppet theater) with a hand-cranked band organ and sword-fighting knights and swarthy Arab puppets, operated by three men. Had dinner at a restaurant (€27) with sidewalk seating, enclosed against the weather in clear vinyl. Watched the full moon rise above the Duomo, sitting on a bench at Cefalu’s central square. A rare relaxing day, zero miles driven.
Day 20 – Cinisi
Watched Cefalu come to life as we waited for the Internet spot to open (wanting to make sure our flights tomorrow will be operating): a guy selling fish from a wheelbarrow, workmen roping buckets of sand and cement to second story balconies, grannies walking babies in strollers, fashionable ladies teetering on cobblestones in high-heeled boots, an aging former beauty in a house-dress selling produce in full makeup. When we went to get the car from where we’d left it two days ago, it had been moved. Not a mark on it and no ticket, either. It was apparently moved by workmen who needed access to the building we’d parked in front of. They just picked it up and set it down about 30 feet away! Hit the highway toward the airport and beyond, bypassing Palermo on our way to Cinisi for the night. Il Pirati Hotel (€50 without breakfast), was located near the end of Palermo Airport’s runway, a 15 minute drive from the airport. (important when your flight leaves at 6:30am) Took a walk on Cinisi’s beach, along crumbling cliffs. Had panini for dinner at a bar near the hotel, then drove into town to fill up the car. Nearly got T-boned at a dark intersection in a blinding rainstorm on our way back to the hotel. The other guy ran a stop sign. Spent the rest of the evening re-packing for tomorrow’s flights and turned in early. (87 miles total)
Day 21 – Homeward
Turned in the rental car in the dark (2981 km total = 1789 miles), flew Alitalia from Palermo to Rome, then KLM to Amsterdam, with stunning views of snow-covered Alps as we left Italian airspace. Nine hour NW flight to MSP, and finally home.
Trip highlights:
Gubbio and its truffle festival
Ascoli Piceno’s squares
Scillo’s castle on a rock and medieval fishing quarter
Clifftop Erice’s stunning views
Cefalu’s golden duomo and setting below La Rocca
and he accuses me of nagging
