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Post by Jazz on Oct 31, 2011 20:55:37 GMT
The promise was fulfilled. Before this trip, my time in eastern Paris was severely limited. A boat trip up the Canal Saint Martin, a superb evening with Kerouac walking along the canal and being shown a portion of his ‘Paris inconnu’... unforgettable.One year my apartment was in the 11th, but somehow my explorations were curtailed. This time I decided to ‘find’ eastern Paris. My first apartment was on Quai de Valmy, overlooking a lock, falling asleep each night to the sounds of a waterfall. The second home I loved, in the 12th ,with gracious French windows giving onto an exquisite 17th century courtyard. My first forays were erratic and totally impromptu. One day I hopped on the Metro and got off at Place des Fetes, in my confusion thinking this was ‘the grand beginning’.  I surfaced to view a dismal and depressing group of apartment buildings. Not very festive. hmmm…I cut my losses, walked across the street to the welcoming bus stop and jumped on. Thank god, I began to like what I saw and got off in some nameless but intriguing area. Within a few minutes I stumbled onto two places that I had dreamed about, Villa l’Hermitage and Cite Leroy. Sadly, my camera battery had died but, here are two excellent posts that will show you why I was so excited, so beautiful and lush! 1. beegirl.squarespace.com/blog/2009/12/15/villa-de-lermitage.html2. beegirl.squarespace.com/blog/2009/12/1/la-cite-leroy.htmlMost of my wanderings were unplanned, most with fabulous results, sometimes, so-so. The buses were great and often, I just got on, enjoyed ‘the tour’ and got off when something caught my eye. Fortunately, I had the weekly Navigo pass (18E) which I absolutely loved! All of Paris is at your feet and, a bus ride is a good way to relax and enjoy the city when you are exhausted. (the Navigo covers buses, the Metro, the Montmartre bus, the funicular) The day that I spent with our FMT ( French Mystique Tours) was exceptional! He took me to portion of the 20th that excites me to this moment. Rich, textured, unexpected…loved it all. What follows are some photos from that day. If I had returned the very next day, I doubt that I could find these special places. All I vaguely remember is that it was all within about a half hour from the Gambetta metro stop. Weak disclaimer: The whole day was grey, not a hint of sun and the last 2 hours were in the drizzle as darkness fell. continues... |
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Post by Jazz on Oct 31, 2011 21:49:36 GMT
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Post by fumobici on Oct 31, 2011 22:13:19 GMT
Enchanting. That passage is like a tranquil oasis in the city. Impressively quiet feet by FMT in that little video, I always seem to make annoying shuffling noises when I'm looking at the camera making video.
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Post by lola on Oct 31, 2011 22:39:03 GMT
Lovely, Jazz. Thank you.
It is magical hearing "found" music like that.
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Post by frenchmystiquetour on Oct 31, 2011 23:03:28 GMT
There's more to what I showed Jazz than she's letting on. She knows I'm doing a report about the 20th some time in the next couple of months so she saved it for me to cover. Too bad about your camera battery for Cité Leroy and Villa l'Hermitage.
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Post by Deleted on Oct 31, 2011 23:11:16 GMT
Not a problem about Villa de l'Ermitage -- Jazz already knew there was a thread about it.  The music with that video is perfect. |
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Post by Jazz on Oct 31, 2011 23:36:42 GMT
 You guys are so aware! Kerouac, your thread is superbe and I don't believe in re inventing the wheel. ...onwards.... That magic word, lunch! The drizzle had truly begun and we were damp, tired and hungry. FMT had chosen a perfect restaurant, les Mondes Bohèmes. www.mondesbohemes.com/The restaurant was owned by a fascinating young couple who discussed the immediate area, their thoughts, philosophies…a delight, ‘out of time, out of place’. They were now hungry as well and shared lunch with us. A wonderful talk. They were open and generously discussed their neighborhood, which they loved. I was struck by the powerful communal feeling. For instance, we ate there, but they did not hesitate to recommend other restaurants close by. The two of them had done all of the renovations to their place themselves. The food was delicious (!) and a very good price, entrée and plat, or, plat and dessert for 13E. So very good. Actually, perfect. After lunch, I took some photos of our oasis, After lunch, something special...
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Post by lola on Nov 1, 2011 0:27:46 GMT
fun
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Post by Jazz on Nov 1, 2011 0:34:15 GMT
Ah…a cool wet day, full bellies, good conversation…what more could you want? Well, there was more! The owner, who appeared to be a very active and caring member of his community, held the keys to Eden-Bio, just next door, and took us for a visit. This is a famous architectural social housing development in Paris, completed two years ago, and designed by édouard francôis. In his words, _______________________________ .....'Eden Bio, a Parisian social housing development set in an “urban wilderness” and designed by French architect Edouard François, has been completed. The block includes 100 social apartments and studios, community rooms and a small restaurant, surrounded by vertical organic gardens (which have yet to mature). Upper levels are reached via timber staircases and gantries. Wisteria plants will climb over trellises surrounding the building and the ground around the houses will be densely planted. Every window has a wide sill containing plant pots and every apartment has a south-facing balcony. Villas des Vignoles Also called EDEN BIO Vignoles is a construction on an entire Parisian housing block. Due to its size, the project is about both urbanism and architecture. The block of houses is not situated in Haussmannian Paris with chic boulevards as is the Fouquet’s Barrière that I designed at the same time. Vignoles is situated in a picturesque and popular neighbourhood. The block is crossed by narrow alleys a couple of meters wide. They are a relic of the bygone ‘’faubourg’’ with its fruit gardens. The surrounding architecture is of low height and is constituted of bits and pieces, little fragments that have a lot of charm. An architecture to be lived, that has never been designed. The program comprises a hundred new social appartments and ateliers for artists, some new community rooms and a small renovated restaurant.....' A specific architecture for a specific context....' _______________________________________________ I loved it! We explored and I took some photos, Beautiful. I was astounded that this was 'social housing'. Here is some reading on Eden-Bio, it contains an essay on the project by Edouard Francois, www.dezeen.com/2009/02/17/eden-bio-by-edouard-francois-2/ |
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Post by bixaorellana on Nov 1, 2011 2:24:42 GMT
This was so enjoyable! The sequence was lovely, with magical nooks and interesting contemporary incursions at the beginning, on through anyone's ideal of a pleasant lunch in Paris, and ending with the perfect note of a homey yet artistic piece of social consciousness made real. Really, exhilarating, yet somehow relaxing -- thank you!
Oh -- and you have no reason to make disclaimers for the pictures, which are wonderful.
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Post by Jazz on Nov 1, 2011 2:30:55 GMT
It was now late afternoon, about 4PM, and the relentless drizzle continued. I broke down and bought an umbrella. We walked and walked. another small passage with the Anarchist headquarters, and, The salamander! and his biography, an abandoned store, with a brave, untended hollyhock, a glimpse of the old Petite Ceinture, the railway that used to encircle Paris (and, be used), a day care centre, Very late afternoon, we found this park, Emerging from the park, sodden, we saw 'Jean Kellie", It was dark now, heavy rain and trudged first to the Edith Piaf cafe (untouched by human hands since 1960 and, warm and good). A final meal at Place Gambetta was simple and delicious, full bodied bordeaux... a wonderful day! It was only when I downloaded my photos that I saw the significence of my final shots---the toilet. Often in Paris, there are seperate stalls, M and F, but you share the room and thhe sink. I took a photo of the lovely sink, Then, another angle, totally oblivious to the 'young Oscar Wilde's' privacy. ;D ;D [/img][/center] |
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Post by bjd on Nov 1, 2011 10:27:33 GMT
Ah, you found rue St Blaise (pic 9 in #10)! Did you go into the church? It's very old, with huge pillars. And there is a small private cemetery behind it.
Glad you had a good time wandering around, Jazz, despite the lousy weather. I think FMT brings it on -- it was raining when I went for a walk with him too. ;D
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Post by Jazz on Nov 1, 2011 20:19:45 GMT
Ah, you found rue St Blaise (pic 9 in #10)! Did you go into the church? It's very old, with huge pillars. And there is a small private cemetery behind it. Glad you had a good time wandering around, Jazz, despite the lousy weather. I think FMT brings it on -- it was raining when I went for a walk with him too. ;D No, we didn't go into the church and certainly didn't see the small cemetary! This was a street that I looked at, liked and took a photo. Thanks for the location, my geographical sense is poor. So, FMT brings on the rain? He was successful this day, but it was still lovely. The last hour, before we had our good dinner, was dark and the rain was very heavy. I made pathetic attempts to photo,( with FMT holding the umbrella) but, most of the photos were a dismal failure. The only one that was close to decent, la compagne a Paris,....(what a loss, it was all so beautiful) |
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Post by frenchmystiquetour on Nov 1, 2011 22:05:07 GMT
I believe the church Saint Blaise is closed right now for renovations and it was too late in the day to visit the cemetery (closed). I am a solid 2 for 2 in bringing the rain while touring Paris with APIS members. You'll need to come for a bike trip in the country with me where I bring eternal sunshine (as long as I watch the weather forecast first). We had great days together Jazz and bjd so I'll be looking forward to your next trips to Paris.
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Post by nycgirl on Nov 2, 2011 2:44:06 GMT
This thread is such a treat, Jazz! I love all the unexpected sights, especially the charming passage with the serendipitous violin recital. You couldn't plan a sweeter moment.
I'm glad you put forth the effort to take photos in the pouring rain. It really helped convey the atmosphere. I always put away the camera as soon as any precipitation hits. That's something I need to work on.
FMT, looking forward to your report!
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Post by lagatta on Nov 2, 2011 18:39:47 GMT
This was lovely. I have a sculptor friend who had a studio in villa de l'Ermitage, but I've lost his traces. I've enjoyed a little méchoui there (not a whole lamb, not the room) but grilled lamb in his little courtyard, which is also used for sculpting.
Oh, how I'd love to live in the Eden Vignoles social housing! (though where I live here is nice enough, though less innovative). And in the meantime, make a date to eat at Les mondes bohèmes... I have a friend who lives in that (southern) part of the 20th.
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Post by Deleted on Nov 2, 2011 18:43:30 GMT
One of my closest friends lives in the 20th and is begging me for another visit. I must take some photos of her street, rue de la Mare, one of these days.
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Post by frenchmystiquetour on Nov 3, 2011 0:02:06 GMT
I often go to a little private club on Wednesday evenings on rue de la Mare called Mobilhome. It is an artists studio that turns into a private club on Wednesday evenings and they serve an original 10 euro dinner with supplies they buy from a local street market and then have music or poetry or performance art of some sort afterwards. Five euros for a yearly membership.
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Post by Deleted on Nov 4, 2011 12:35:41 GMT
That sounds like quite the deal, FMT.
Jazz, I'm really enjoying reading and viewing your threads. It so interesting to get the different outlooks of Paris from all the people who live or visit there. Is this a City you would consider living in at some point in time?
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Post by Jazz on Nov 4, 2011 17:28:58 GMT
FMT, I would love to go to a dinner at Mobilhome on my next visit. le75020.fr/paris-XXe-75020-20e-arrondissement/sortir/restaurants-bars/15406-bar-associatif-restaurant-mobilhome.paris-75020-infoLagatta, Eden Vignoles does seem like it would be a remarkable place to live. My brief visit was more than enough to intrigue me and it would be great if someone could post a in depth report on it. While in this area we walked past Mama Shelter. I was unexpectedly impressed and would like to stay there, at least for a night or so. It was designed by Philippe Starck and somehow manages to work very well in the area. You can get a room for 79E. www.guardian.co.uk/artanddesign/2008/nov/09/mama-shelter-paris-design-reviewwww.mamashelter.com/en/paris/rooms/mama/Thanks Deyana, glad that you’re enjoying ‘the big download’. Yes, I would love to live in Paris, at least for one year. But it is problematical and will probably never happen. The huge obstacle is that I do not and never will have, EU status. Thus, am limited by the Schengen rules, no stay longer at one time than 3 months. I feel at home and sympatico with Paris, the Parisians and their unique way of living day to day. Each time I leave, I'm afraid I'll never get back again! |
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Post by lagatta on Nov 5, 2011 1:01:33 GMT
Me, it is pretty much the same. I can't say never will have as that depends not only on me but on someone over there, but that is annoying too (we love each other very much, but are we cut out to live together, and do I want my right to stay somewhere depend on a man? ) You can work out a stay longer than three months if it is for study purposes, or business (business based in one's own country). I suppose I could do a doctorate, which would be a legitimate reason to stay there for a year. |
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Post by Deleted on Nov 5, 2011 13:50:15 GMT
Well, thank you for your great photo essay  I know how much time goes into making them. Well, I never thought about that, those Schengen rules and EU status. They've cut the time down to three months now? That's a bit tough I think. I've never really taken advantage of my European citizenship. Maybe I should and will one of these days. Lagatta, not an easy decision to make. But maybe it's worth taking the chance? |
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Post by Deleted on Dec 30, 2011 20:10:39 GMT
I was admiring this lovely report again and cursing myself for not having been in the 20th arrondissement since it was posted. One of my closest friends lives in the 20th arrondissement, and I have not seen her for one year! Something is wrong with me (but a lot of you know that already).
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Post by tod2 on Jan 16, 2012 9:46:19 GMT
Jazz - Could you or FMT, cast your mind back and try and recall the park you found in the rain.
I THINK it could well be Jardin Naturel which has an entrance into Rue de Lesseps and Rue de la Reunion. Your photos do look different to mine that I took with the exception of the high wall (Pere Lechaise) in photo #16 where there looks to be a solid wall in the background.
If I am wrong can you enlighten me ? Thanks!
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I surfaced to view a dismal and depressing group of apartment buildings. Not very festive. hmmm…I cut my losses, walked across the street to the welcoming bus stop and jumped on. Thank god, I began to like what I saw and got off in some nameless but intriguing area. Within a few minutes I stumbled onto two places that I had dreamed about, Villa l’Hermitage and Cite Leroy. Sadly, my camera battery had died but, here are two excellent posts that will show you why I was so excited, so beautiful and lush!
You guys are so aware! Kerouac, your thread is superbe and I don't believe in re inventing the wheel. 
I know how much time goes into making them. Well, I never thought about that, those Schengen rules and EU status. They've cut the time down to three months now? That's a bit tough I think. I've never really taken advantage of my European citizenship. Maybe I should and will one of these days. 