braised turkey (for turkey-haters and others)
Nov 3, 2012 19:22:20 GMT
Post by lagatta on Nov 3, 2012 19:22:20 GMT
This isn't even a recipe, really, just a reminder from MarK Bittman at the NYTimes Minimalist column that turkey is much better suited for braising than roasting whole.
Braised turkey has a deep flavour for such lean meat (I only use the thighs). Obviously can easily be given a Mexican touch, as an Indigenous American bird.
www.nytimes.com/2008/11/12/dining/12mini.html
November 12, 2008
The Minimalist
A Great Turkey, Piece by Piece
By MARK BITTMAN
FOR all the talk about how boring turkey is, it can be quite rewarding when handled properly. But roasting a whole bird is among the least "proper" methods. If the white meat is overcooked (which is almost inevitable), it turns dry; if the dark meat is undercooked (or cooked without moisture), it’s tough.
But if the white meat is handled like a chicken breast and just barely cooked through, it remains moist and tender. And if the dark meat is cooked for a long time, with moisture, it becomes so tender it gains the consistency of pulled pork.
The way to achieve both of these states simultaneously is to braise, and the best starting place is not with a whole turkey but with turkey parts — specifically, thighs and breasts.
If you think your Thanksgiving guests are flexible enough to try something surprising, this is it. If you insist on having a whole roast bird on the table come Thanksgiving, try braising turkey some other time.
For about 10 people, start with four thighs (you can buy them separately in most supermarkets) and a whole breast (take the breast meat off the bone). Brown all the meat really well on the skin side, then cook the thighs along with aromatic vegetables, some pork and a bit of liquid. Expose the skin so it remains crisp. The breast meat is added when the thighs are tender and cooked just until done.
The result is a mound of vegetables and meat with nicely sliced, perfectly cooked breast meat. It may not be exactly traditional, but it makes sense.
Edited to add: there is an actual recipe, as a sidebar, but of course you can make up your own from what you have on hand:
www.nytimes.com/2008/11/12/dining/121mrex.html?ref=dining
Recipe
Braised Turkey
Time: About 3 hours
2 tablespoons olive oil
1 pound Italian sausage, cut into 2-inch pieces
1/4 pound pancetta, guanciale or not-too-smoky bacon, cut into
1/2-inch dice
4 turkey thighs
Salt and black pepper
1 turkey breast, boned to yield 2 halves
1 ounce (more or less) dried porcini or other mushrooms
1/2 pound carrots, peeled and diced
1/2 pound celery, trimmed and diced
1 large onion, sliced
Several sage leaves or sprigs of thyme or rosemary
1/2 pound shiitake or other mushrooms, sliced
Stock or water as needed
Chopped fresh parsley leaves for garnish.
1. In a large skillet over medium heat, heat olive oil. Add sausage, pancetta and as many thighs as will fit comfortably, skin side down; sprinkle thighs with salt and pepper. Brown all well, removing pancetta first (it will brown first), then sausage; set aside. Turn thighs when they are well browned and cook a minute or so on skinless side. Remove them, too, and repeat with remaining thighs if necessary. Add breast to pan and brown it well, skin side down, then flip and cook for just a minute or so and remove. Set pan aside.
2. Preheat oven to 300 degrees. Soak porcinis in hot water to cover. In pan used for turkey, cook carrots, celery, onions, sage and shiitakes in leftover fat. When all vegetables are tender and beginning to brown, add drained porcini, reserving liquid. Return pancetta and sausage to pan. Cook another minute and turn off heat.
3. In a large roasting pan, put thighs in corners, browned side up; there should be room for breasts all in one layer. Fill space between thighs with vegetables; leave breasts out for now. Add mushroom soaking liquid, leaving any sand and grit behind. Add stock or water as needed to come about halfway up sides of thighs.
4. Put in oven and roast, uncovered, for 2 hours, checking occasionally to make sure liquid level remains sufficiently high and stirring vegetables if they threaten to brown too much. When thigh meat is tender, lay breasts on vegetables and cook until they are done, about a half hour longer.
5. To serve, put vegetables on a platter; slice breasts and lay them on top; shred thigh meat and pile that on the rest.
Yield: At least 10 servings.
Braised turkey has a deep flavour for such lean meat (I only use the thighs). Obviously can easily be given a Mexican touch, as an Indigenous American bird.
www.nytimes.com/2008/11/12/dining/12mini.html
November 12, 2008
The Minimalist
A Great Turkey, Piece by Piece
By MARK BITTMAN
FOR all the talk about how boring turkey is, it can be quite rewarding when handled properly. But roasting a whole bird is among the least "proper" methods. If the white meat is overcooked (which is almost inevitable), it turns dry; if the dark meat is undercooked (or cooked without moisture), it’s tough.
But if the white meat is handled like a chicken breast and just barely cooked through, it remains moist and tender. And if the dark meat is cooked for a long time, with moisture, it becomes so tender it gains the consistency of pulled pork.
The way to achieve both of these states simultaneously is to braise, and the best starting place is not with a whole turkey but with turkey parts — specifically, thighs and breasts.
If you think your Thanksgiving guests are flexible enough to try something surprising, this is it. If you insist on having a whole roast bird on the table come Thanksgiving, try braising turkey some other time.
For about 10 people, start with four thighs (you can buy them separately in most supermarkets) and a whole breast (take the breast meat off the bone). Brown all the meat really well on the skin side, then cook the thighs along with aromatic vegetables, some pork and a bit of liquid. Expose the skin so it remains crisp. The breast meat is added when the thighs are tender and cooked just until done.
The result is a mound of vegetables and meat with nicely sliced, perfectly cooked breast meat. It may not be exactly traditional, but it makes sense.
Edited to add: there is an actual recipe, as a sidebar, but of course you can make up your own from what you have on hand:
www.nytimes.com/2008/11/12/dining/121mrex.html?ref=dining
Recipe
Braised Turkey
Time: About 3 hours
2 tablespoons olive oil
1 pound Italian sausage, cut into 2-inch pieces
1/4 pound pancetta, guanciale or not-too-smoky bacon, cut into
1/2-inch dice
4 turkey thighs
Salt and black pepper
1 turkey breast, boned to yield 2 halves
1 ounce (more or less) dried porcini or other mushrooms
1/2 pound carrots, peeled and diced
1/2 pound celery, trimmed and diced
1 large onion, sliced
Several sage leaves or sprigs of thyme or rosemary
1/2 pound shiitake or other mushrooms, sliced
Stock or water as needed
Chopped fresh parsley leaves for garnish.
1. In a large skillet over medium heat, heat olive oil. Add sausage, pancetta and as many thighs as will fit comfortably, skin side down; sprinkle thighs with salt and pepper. Brown all well, removing pancetta first (it will brown first), then sausage; set aside. Turn thighs when they are well browned and cook a minute or so on skinless side. Remove them, too, and repeat with remaining thighs if necessary. Add breast to pan and brown it well, skin side down, then flip and cook for just a minute or so and remove. Set pan aside.
2. Preheat oven to 300 degrees. Soak porcinis in hot water to cover. In pan used for turkey, cook carrots, celery, onions, sage and shiitakes in leftover fat. When all vegetables are tender and beginning to brown, add drained porcini, reserving liquid. Return pancetta and sausage to pan. Cook another minute and turn off heat.
3. In a large roasting pan, put thighs in corners, browned side up; there should be room for breasts all in one layer. Fill space between thighs with vegetables; leave breasts out for now. Add mushroom soaking liquid, leaving any sand and grit behind. Add stock or water as needed to come about halfway up sides of thighs.
4. Put in oven and roast, uncovered, for 2 hours, checking occasionally to make sure liquid level remains sufficiently high and stirring vegetables if they threaten to brown too much. When thigh meat is tender, lay breasts on vegetables and cook until they are done, about a half hour longer.
5. To serve, put vegetables on a platter; slice breasts and lay them on top; shred thigh meat and pile that on the rest.
Yield: At least 10 servings.
