Cape Town

[nycgirl]

I completely forgot a part. After spending the day on the Cape, my husband and I came to the apartment, changed, and went out while my mother-in-law went to bed. We were close to a bunch of bars so we opted to walk, but as soon as I stepped outside I almost got blown back in! I had read about the raging southeast wind known locally as the “Cape Doctor," but that foreknowledge still didn’t prepare me for the real thing. But with perseverance, we managed to stagger into the Mount Nelson Hotel bar.





The drinks were delicious and the bartenders were fun to chat with. My husband didn’t care for the stuffy crowd, though. I didn’t mind, and I liked the decor, especially the frou frou bathroom.



On the way back to the apartment, we stepped into a raucous dive, which was a fun contrast. We sat next to a local father and son and had a good conversation with them. The father worked at a historic movie theater called the Labia (it’s not what you think!) and invited us to come by sometime and see a movie for free. It was very kind of him and if our stay was a bit longer I definitely would have taken him up on it.

[nycgirl]

We slept in a bit the next day because we went to bed late. When we left late in the morning to get something to eat, we could see the mess caused by the wind the previous night.



The winds didn’t let up all day, so that killed my plans of going to the top of Table Mountain. As a plan B, we visited Kirstenbosch Botanical Gardens, nestled on Table Mountain’s eastern slopes.



Kirstenbosch is home to over 7,000 species of indigenous plants. I was hoping to see South Africa’s national flower, the king protea, but it wasn’t the right season for it. Still, I saw tons of interesting flora, much of it completely new to me, such as the Pig’s ear (deserving of a prettier name)...





the pineapple plant...



and the silver tree, which, as its name implies, glistens beautifully in the sunlight.



The gardens are also home to many birds and animals. We didn’t see the animals because they make themselves scarce during the days, but we saw lots of guinea fowls and their chicks.









I don’t have a knack for capturing plants, especially enormous trees, so my photos don’t do the place justice at all. It was gorgeous, though, and we spent the afternoon exploring at a leisurely pace.

Afterwards, we headed to Llandudno, a secluded little white sand beach. I liked feeling the warmth of the sun and hearing the powerful crash of the waves, but we didn’t stay long because of the relentless wind.

On the way back into town, we got stuck in traffic for a tedious hour or so. At first I thought it was holiday traffic, but it turned out it was caused by a brush fire. We even saw a helicopter flying back and forth to the ocean to fetch water. Eventually the crises passed and traffic began moving. We had a tasty seafood dinner before heading “home.” It was a nice, relaxing day.

[Deleted]

What a shame you couldn't go to Table Mountain. I was there on an absolutely lovely day (2 hour wait to take the cable car) and also had the "luck" to be up on top when the weather changed. There were signs everywhere at the bottom saying to take cold weather gear "because the weather can change radically in just a moment" but since it was about 27° down at the bottom, most people went up in shorts and t-shirts anyway.

And then the clouds suddenly appeared.... The temperature dropped about 15° and the wind began to howl. Hah -- and naturally there was quite a wait for the cable car back down, while people shivered in misery.

Anyway, all of the pictures continue to be great, but I really wanted to say that the heads of the guinea fowl are really a cruel joke by Mother Nature.

[nycgirl]

We were able to go up the mountain the next day, and we had a very similar experience.

Yes, the guinea fowl are quite pretty, except for the big ugly spur on top of their heads.

[bixaorellana]

Oh dear, NYCGirl ~~ I thought I'd replied to your last couple of installments, but no. Probably I was too stunned by the beauty and variety you show!

What a trip! Your heads must have been swiveling at every moment, with so much to see & all so pretty. The penguins just knock me out. How amazing to see them in that setting, with people so close. It looks as though the landscapes alone would be enough reason to visit and you certainly captured them beautifully. I would have gone crazy over the succulents in the botanical garden.

Fabulous report -- can't wait for more.

[nycgirl]

We began the following day with some shopping in Greenmarket Square. There were so many interesting goods that I lost all willpower and bought more than I intended to. Still, I was pleased with my purchases and happy to support the local artists.



I picked up stuff that I don’t see at home, like a lamp made out of an ostrich eggshell.



The woman who operated this stand had beautiful objects that she made herself, such as collages made out of tree bark and practical kitchen items carved from ostrich bone.



I loved all the colorful prints I saw, from the hanging fabrics to the women’s attire.





After I burned through all my cash, we headed to the nearby Constantia wine region, where we treated ourselves to more delicious wines and scenery.



For lunch we ate at La Colombe, an acclaimed restaurant that specializes in French cuisine with an Asian twist. The food was inventive, aesthetically pleasing, and absolutely delicious. It was hands down the best meal of the whole trip.















On the way back to the apartment, I hopped out of the car to take a look at the Minstrel Carnival in the Bo Kaap neighborhood. Bo Kaap was originally settled by freed slaves in the 17th and 18th century. The community is predominantly Muslim and is referred to as “Cape Malay” (a misnomer, since they often have ancestry from all over Southeast Asia, as well as some African and European ancestry).



The Minstrel Carnival (also known by the politically-incorrect name “Coon Carnival”) takes place every year on January 2. It originated in slavery times, when slaves would celebrate their only day off the whole the year with music, dancing, and feasting. In the mid-19th century, the tradition was influenced by traveling minstrels from America.

Today, the festivities continue, not as a somber reflection on the past, but as a celebration of the New Year and of cultural identity. The minstrel troupes put a good deal of effort into their costumes and showmanship, and the crowds line the street in droves to show their support.







The participants are mostly men, but there are children and occasionally women who join in.











The energy of the performers and the audience was infectious, and brightly painted houses of Bo Kaap provided a vibrant backdrop.





Here’s a little video.



I couldn’t stay long, but I’m glad I got to be a spectator at a lively Cape Town tradition.

[mossie]

What a fascinating report. I too could have spent money in that market and the minstrel parade is a colourful affair.

[tod2]

Great to hear from you again - I can see you did a lot of planning and research for this trip as you are definitely hitting the hi spots! Looking forward to more soon!

[bixaorellana]

It's almost impossible that one country, even such a big one, should have so much beauty and variety. Wow, what a trip & what super pictures. I love the ones of the troupes, even though they confused me for a moment, thinking you'd nipped over to New Orleans for some shots. The background info you include really enhances this fabulous report.

And gad ~~ that meal! One of you must have uttered, at least once, the words "too pretty to eat", no?

The wine region photo looks like paradise and that market ~~ !!! *moan* *desire*

[nycgirl]

Feb 23, 2013 5:15:35 GMT bixaorellana said:

And gad ~~ that meal! One of you must have uttered, at least once, the words "too pretty to eat", no?

Yes, I was a photo tyrant and wouldn't let anyone eat until I properly documented everything.

[nycgirl]

After the carnival, I met up with the others and we drove to Table Mountain. We got in the (extremely long) line to take the cableway to the plateau on the top of the mountain. It was a tedious wait, but I got a jolt of excitement when I saw the ride we were about to take.



Table Mountain at its highest point is 3,559 feet (1,085 m) tall and the cableway carries visitors more than 2,300 feet (700 m). Halfway up, the car rotates, giving everyone a complete 360 degree view. It was a smooth ride, but my stomach did a fearful lurch with each movement. It was scary, but awesome. I was too preoccupied to take photos, but here’s a look at what I saw.

The sky had been pretty clear all day, but would you guess it? As soon as we disembarked from the cableway car, the famed “table cloth” descended and we weren’t able to see a thing. Sigh.



Night quickly descended, and we shivered in the cold as we waited in the lengthy line to go back down. Now and then, though, the clouds broke and offered a peek of the twinkling city below us.





The ride back down was just as thrilling as it was the first time. But next time my husband and I go to Table Mountain (and I really, really look forward to the next time), I want to hike it. I’d take a strenuous hike over a boring queue any day.

[Deleted]

I thought the ride down was pretty scary myself, especially with the half dozen screaming women every time there was a jolt.

The night shots of Cape Town are spectacular!

[mossie]

If you had shown me that cable car I would have been screaming as soon as we joined the queue. Lovely photos as usual, thanks so much for sharing.

[tod2]

Good work! You got some lovely shots of the city below at night - I have only been up the mountain twice and only during the day. It's nice to walk along the foothpaths on the top and find the various fynbos (Fane boss). You can definitely hike up some of the set trails but I am not sure you can reach the very top.? You wouldn't find it a difficult walk as you are very young and very fit ;D

Coming back.....Of course you are!! Several more times I'm darn sure as there is loads more for you to experience in the little areas away from Cape Town city itself. You would love Hermanus! It's only a two hour drive away and then just a short distance from there is Gaansbaai and the shark cage diving

[lugg]

Just checked back and caught up with your last 3 installments

...that bathroom could have been designed for your dress, what a lovely photo of you.

The visual of the pathway surround by the agapanthus leading to the mountain is just stunning , what a setting for a lovely lunch.

The vibrancy of the carnival oozes through your vibrant photos.

And lastly ... no way would I ever view Cape Town from the top of the mountain, neither on foot or cable car , I would have to stand and gaze upwards.

[nycgirl]

Thank you, everyone! I was pretty disappointed about the poor visibility on Table Mountain, but I am glad I went.

Feb 24, 2013 10:57:04 GMT lugg said:

...that bathroom could have been designed for your dress, what a lovely photo of you.

The visual of the pathway surround by the agapanthus leading to the mountain is just stunning , what a setting for a lovely lunch.

Thanks, Lugg! And I'm glad you mentioned the name of the flower. I've seen it in gardens lots of times but had no idea what it was called.

Feb 24, 2013 8:50:02 GMT tod2 said:

You can definitely hike up some of the set trails but I am not sure you can reach the very top.? You wouldn't find it a difficult walk as you are very young and very fit ;D

Coming back.....Of course you are!! Several more times I'm darn sure as there is loads more for you to experience in the little areas away from Cape Town city itself. You would love Hermanus! It's only a two hour drive away and then just a short distance from there is Gaansbaai and the shark cage diving

Yep, you can hike to the top and either hike back down or catch the cableway. Or abseil down. I am not interested in that last option.

I've heard great things about Hermanus and would love to go during whale watching season. We did consider shark cage diving, but New Year's closures made things too complicated. My husband really wants to go next time. I'm torn, however, because I'm concerned about the environment ethics of cage diving. Plus, I'm scared.

[lola]

Wonderful report I'm just finding now, NYCgirl. What a trip that must have been.

The carnival, the beaches, and that amazing ride down are all spectacular. (and you are very cute in that dress, too.)

[nycboy]

That's my lady.

What a trip we had, I can't stop thinking about it.

[lagatta]

That sounds lovely and I'm so happy for you both.

[cheerypeabrain]

This is an excellent report Nycgirl...I love all the pics, altho I am particularly fond of the penguin ones...the cutie in the video taking a stroll to the beach is a stunner!

As always your photographs are beautiful, I've really enjoyed the whole thread

[nycgirl]

On our last day in Cape Town, we visited Robben Island, which gained infamy as a maximum security prison in the days of apartheid, from 1961 to 1991. We boarded the ferry for a slightly choppy half hour ride to the island. As we pulled away from the waterfront, I could see Greenpoint Stadium, built for the 2010 World Cup.



Robben Island got its name from the Dutch word for "seal" and we saw a few of those chubby creatures, along with tons of cormorants, sunning themselves on the island’s concrete blocks.



From the ferry, a bus drove us to different point of interest on the island. We had a very good guide who provided commentary. This is a leper cemetery, a vestige of the island’s past as a leper colony beginning in the 1840s. People with other severe illnesses, including mental disorders, were also sent to live here under very harsh conditions.



This small house is where activist Robert Sobukwe, founder of the Pan Africanist Congress, lived in solitary confinement. The authorities considered him so dangerous that they had this house built just for him. Under Sobukwe, the PAC led a nationwide protest against the Pass Laws, which forced non-whites to carry passes that limited their movements. Sobukwe and his followers marched to police stations, tore up their passes, and offered themselves up for arrest. Sobukwe knew there would be too many people for the police to lock up. When this protest took place in Sharpeville, the police opened fired into the unarmed crowd, killing 69 people, including 19 children. The Sharpeville Massacre drew worldwide outrage and condemnation.

Sobukwe was charged and convicted of incitement. Following his internment on Robben Island, he lived out the rest of his days under house arrest. He did not live to see a united South Africa.

(I’m sorry the quality of the photos is not good. We couldn’t leave the bus and I couldn’t position myself for a good shot. But I took what shots I could for information purposes.)



This is the limestone quarry where the prisoners did hard labor. The dust from the rocks cause respiratory problems and the the glare from the sunlight hitting the rock caused permanent eye damage. The prisoners were not given sunglasses or any protective gear. The wardens were unnecessarily brutal to the prisoners, forcing them to move rocks from one end of the quarry to the other for no reason other than to break their spirits.

There was a silver lining to all of this, though. Embracing the slogan “Each one, teach one,” the educated prisoners taught the illiterate. Inside the small cave (pictured far left) where the men were crammed to eat their lunches, literacy classes were conducted in secret. Without books or writing tools, the lessons were scrawled into the dirt. Through perseverance, many were able to leave prison more educated than when they arrived.

In 1995, over 1,000 ex-political prisoners reunited at this spot where Nelson Mandela, echoing the sentiments of Ghandi, stressed the need for forgiveness and reconciliation. Before leaving, he set down a rock and, one by one, the other former prisoners followed suit. Today this cairn, made up of rocks of different colors, sizes, and shapes, represent the new Rainbow Nation of South Africa.



After the bus tour, we were led into the prison compound, guided by a former political prisoner. All of the prison guides are former political prisoners, so visitors are given firsthand knowledge of life there. Our guide told us that some were imprisoned because of the Immorality Act, which forbade sexual relations and mixed marriages between whites and non-whites. He himself was incarcerated for simply attending a student meeting where they discussed how they could assist their fellows who were thrown in jail.

Our guide told us that he often got in trouble for small acts of defiance. For instance, he refused to shave his face, causing the warden to order the guards to do it for him. As they did, our guide laughed and heckled them, saying he never dreamed of the day when a white man would give him a shave. This enraged the guards and they wanted to stop, but orders were orders. So they completed their task, but purposefully cut him with the razor as they did so.



This is the cell of the prison’s most illustrious inmate, Nelson Mandela, who served 18 years of his 27-year imprisonment on Robben Island. The cell is outfitted to look as it did when he first arrived, when prisoners slept on mats and had only a thin blanket to protect them during frigid winters.



Many fascinating accounts of prisoners were written on the walls in the other cells.



This communal prison room was built just for Namibians. The prisoners here were treated even worse than the South Africans. They were not issued beds until 1978.



The last political prisoner was released in 1991 and the criminal prisoners were moved off the island 5 years later. As we boarded the ferry back to Cape Town, I imagined what a relief it must have been for those who were finally granted freedom. It seems like a somber way to cap of the trip, but it was actually uplifting. The thousands of visitors the island receives help create jobs, as well as preserve an important chapter of history. Robben Island, formerly a place of oppression and despair, today represents the triumph of the human spirit.

We were transported back to the waterfront in sunny Cape Town. After lunch, we said goodbye to the Mother City and departed on our next adventure.

[mossie]

A very interesting report of a bad place.

[htmb]

I can only imagine the overwhelming emotions you must have experienced on this day, nycgirl.

[Deleted]

I did not make it to Robben Island, so I particularly appreciate this part of the report.

[mich64]

Fascinating nycgirl... Have read accounts of Robben Island before but your impressions and photos instilled more of a reality in me.

[lola]

Amazing report, nycg. Thank you.

Whenever I think we're inching away from inhumanity to man....

I went to school with a South African who said that the rest of us just didn't understand how necessary apartheid was.

[nycgirl]

Thanks, everyone. It was a very poignant experience, I wish my pictures could do the place justice.

I wish I could change one thing about the tour, though. I would have liked to get out of the bus now and then. Apparently in the past visitors were allowed to get out at the quarry. I wonder why that's not the case any longer.

Mar 28, 2013 0:56:47 GMT lola said:

I went to school with a South African who said that the rest of us just didn't understand how necessary apartheid was.

Wow. There is just no reasoning with people like that.

[lugg]

Thank you yet again nycgirl. As others said sobering and yet in many ways your report is up-lifting ..... in that you convey the human determination to fight for their rights against such terrible adversity

[bixaorellana]

This is a beautiful, fascinating report, one that I'll visit again and again.

I really admire people who will tour places such as Robben Island, since my tendency is to stick head firmly in sand. But your excellent explanation is uplifting and makes clear why preservation and tours of such places are good and necessary. I agree with you that it's a shame that visitors weren't allowed out at the quarry.

Gorgeous last shot there, plus I assume it means more wonderful reports to come.

[mossie]

Rather fitting to have this report now when the most famous detainee is fading away. For Nelson Mandela to have survived all that and yet lived to 94 is remarkable. His achievements were very great and he should be hailed as a true saint.