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Post by bixaorellana on Nov 30, 2017 4:57:36 GMT
This thread is meant as a companion to the ongoing Impressions of Havana thread, and both will be added to as we work our way through the many photos that Havana demanded we take. 
The ones I'm posting first are all from November 16, 2017. That was our second full day in Havana and our walking route took us through many of the must-sees of Cuba's capital city. I'm eager to see what Kerouac captured that day and hoping that he'll expand on my skimpy details & correct any errors.
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Post by bixaorellana on Nov 30, 2017 5:20:10 GMT
A portion of the old wall of Havana, begun in the 1670s and finished in 1740 ~
Near the wall are some old rail cars and engines ~
Here is my postcard from Havana to all of you  ~
I assume this sports building with its *cough* artistic plaques is a relic of the USSR's tenure in Havana ~
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Post by kerouac2 on Nov 30, 2017 6:34:07 GMT
Plaza Vieja is one of the squares of Old Havana that has been fully renovated.
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Post by kerouac2 on Nov 30, 2017 10:39:51 GMT
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Post by mickthecactus on Nov 30, 2017 10:50:41 GMT
What a stunning building!
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Post by bixaorellana on Nov 30, 2017 15:16:58 GMT
Continuing in time sequence from my last set of pictures (Soviet athletics), we approach the waterfront.
This lion appears to be as confused as I am about the identification of the impressive gray building ~
Turning our backs on the old, we admire some modern sculpture ~
The two little ferries are chugging across to the towns of Casablanca and Regla ~
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Post by bixaorellana on Nov 30, 2017 15:36:10 GMT
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Post by bjd on Nov 30, 2017 16:35:06 GMT
That Russian Orthodox church is an interesting addition to Havana. While the USSR was providing money to Cuba, it was officially atheist. Hence, no money for churches and any existing churches in Russia were used as museums, storage depots or were permanently closed for renovation, except for a few in the Kremlin that were tourist attractions. I'm not an expert on Cuban history, but would be surprised that the Castro regime had encouraged church going.
So -- why is there a brand new Russian Orthodox church? The article says Russian-Cuban friendship, but it's well after the fact.
And in the group picture of the saints posted by Kerouac, it says that they are Serbian saints!
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Post by lagatta on Nov 30, 2017 17:07:02 GMT
Not only is the Orthodox cathedral impressive, it is so bloody clean inside! Do they have an invisible army of magical nuns?
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Post by bixaorellana on Nov 30, 2017 22:30:33 GMT
While the USSR was providing money to Cuba, it was officially atheist. Hence, no money for churches ... I'm not an expert on Cuban history, but would be surprised that the Castro regime had encouraged church going. I didn't know that about the officially atheist thing, Bjd. From what I could see, religion didn't seem to be curtailed at all. In his report on Havana in 1998, Kerouac says that the cathedral was only opened one day a month back then. But yes, the Russian Orthodox church was a big surprise. I did see quite a few faces around Havana that I'd characterize as "eastern European" and thought maybe there were enough Russian Orthodox people in Havana to merit a church -- maybe not such a grand one, though. A few days later, we went into a bar next to this church which featured some Russian items (see picture). The barman said that it used to be a Russian church. It is possible it was used as such, but I doubt seriously that was the original purpose of the building. ... it is so bloody clean inside! Do they have an invisible army of magical nuns? Ha ha, LaGatta! I don't know what the severe faced blonde lady guard was, but she sure scared us off from any icon stealing ideas we might have had. Moving right along on this perambulation, we're greeted at Plaza Vieja by two noble beasts.
These plump and placid pups are street dogs, proudly displaying their "I've been sterilized" tags ~
Plaza Vieja dates from 1559 and was the first planned attempt to expand the city in response to Havana’s early growth.
It has been almost completely restored during the past decade. source
Something is getting ready to happen here ~
Even when you have a glamor job, the waiting around part is no fun ~
And it begins. Kerouac has video of this group, but due to his inability to read my mind, he posted it higher up the thread ~
Some of the crowd join in ~
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Post by onlyMark on Dec 1, 2017 5:12:45 GMT
The last picture just before the stilt walkers -
"Right then people, we have an area here to put something. A statue or whatever. Something to fill the space. Suggestions?"
Voice from the back - "How about a naked woman sitting on a cock carrying an oversized eating implement?"
Rapturous applause breaks out, nods of heads, "Yeah! Spot on! Just the thing! Make it so."
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Post by tod2 on Dec 1, 2017 5:41:48 GMT
I think you are quite right Mark! I thought it could be something thought up by a Frenchman.
The cockerel- a symbol of France, the fork - France's gastronomy, the naked lady - Follies Begere, so yeh, French again.
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Post by bixaorellana on Dec 1, 2017 22:11:15 GMT
Continuing our walk through the touristy part of town ~
The actual cradle of the daiquiri.  All things Hemingway are pushed hard in Havana. He drank here ~
Gran Teatro de La Habana Alicia Alonso ~
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Post by kerouac2 on Dec 2, 2017 1:10:03 GMT
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Post by bixaorellana on Dec 3, 2017 0:58:17 GMT
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Post by kerouac2 on Dec 3, 2017 20:07:17 GMT
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Post by bjd on Dec 3, 2017 20:36:07 GMT
The bars and streets don't seem too busy at night. Was it the area or is it too expensive for locals there?
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Post by questa on Dec 3, 2017 21:06:16 GMT
The cockerel- a symbol of France, the fork - France's gastronomy, the naked lady - Follies Begere, so yeh, French again. "Ride a cock horse" English "I suppose a fork is out of the question?" universal |
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Post by bixaorellana on Dec 3, 2017 21:36:42 GMT
The bars and streets don't seem too busy at night. Was it the area or is it too expensive for locals there? Bjd, I think it was because it was the time of night we were out -- probably too early for those places to get busy. |
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Post by kerouac2 on Dec 3, 2017 22:44:33 GMT
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Post by mossie on Dec 4, 2017 17:02:50 GMT
Now I am home again I am able to see these photos properly. But I shall avoid much comment as I haven't got the time to go through the different threads properly.
I would comment on the Russian cathedral though. I understand Putin is behind efforts to revive religion in Russia, don't know where that idea sprung from.
My pilot always took advantage of the order which preceded church parades. "Fall out, Roman Catholics and Jews". He claimed to be "Ortodox", and so could skived out of our outlandish rituals.
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Post by bixaorellana on Dec 4, 2017 22:44:46 GMT
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Post by bixaorellana on Dec 4, 2017 22:45:18 GMT
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Post by questa on Dec 5, 2017 8:11:02 GMT
A "donation" well spent...those photos are magnificent. How I love the in-your-face Art Deco, the shapes and colours and the look of an uninhibited era.
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Post by bixaorellana on Dec 5, 2017 15:28:03 GMT
Thanks, Questa! I really felt in my element there and was thrilled to see it empty and frozen in time. Only the knowledge of my own clumsiness kept me from twirling down the stairs a la Loretta Young.
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Post by bixaorellana on Dec 6, 2017 0:03:44 GMT
Here is a building that we came upon and were exclaiming over its beauty before recognizing it as a major highlight of Havana.
The Bacardi Building is regarded as a signature masterpiece of Havana Deco and is likewise considered to be one of the finest Art Deco buildings in Latin America.
At the time of its completion, the 12-story Bacardi Building was Havana’s first skyscraper and for decades thereafter continued to be the city’s tallest building and one of its principal landmarks. Characterized by a facade of red granite, golden glazed tiles, brass fixtures, and colorful terracotta reliefs of nude nymphs designed by Maxfield Parrish, the building terminates in a stepped, ziggurat-inspired tower topped with a bronze rendition of Bacardi’s bat logo. source
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Post by breeze on Dec 6, 2017 1:45:49 GMT
The Bacardi building is spectacular, and sales of rum are apparently high enough to keep it in top-notch condition.
Trying to learn about Cuba's buildings, I came across the factoid that there's a shortage of cement, as well as rebar, prefab concrete slabs, and gravel.
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Post by fumobici on Dec 6, 2017 2:09:36 GMT
I think Bacardi left town running when Fidel took over. Hmmm.. Wiki sez, en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bacardi Yep. Interesting that the Bacardi brothers were initially pro-Castro--until they nationalized everything. Bacardi were apparently tied up with the CIA too, and have been battling for Cuba sanctions ever since. I can't wait to see the Havana Club tower too! |
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Post by fumobici on Dec 6, 2017 2:10:55 GMT
The Bacardi building and the theater are stunning, and look to have both been well taken care of. Yay!
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Post by bixaorellana on Dec 6, 2017 3:24:15 GMT
Fumobici, click the link in #25 for a little on the history of the Bacardi building. It seems that what we see now is more renovation than conservation. The theater actually seems as though it has been cared for, somewhat of a miracle. This article maybe should go in the Havana food & drink thread, however it bears not only on Bacardi history, but also on a landmark whose facade we saw in #12 above -- the Floridita. We actually went into the tourist-packed interior one night, but passed on the $6 blender daiquiris served in undersized martini glasses. There was a rather good trio playing inside near the front door, and barely any room to move around. And yes, there really is a statue of Hemingway at the end of the bar.
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