La bella Napoli

[bixaorellana]

Thanks, Bjd! It's something for me to aspire to.

Yes, the sculptures weren't just smiling, were they? There was outright laughter and giddiness depicted. That was just a small sampling of the paintings, as my attention was flagging by that time, but it was quite a nice collection, with very few overtly sentimental examples.

I may have mentioned this earlier in the thread, but I can't help but feel I am not doing Naples full justice. There was so much that struck me that I failed to record, but I also snapped too much of other things. (you should see the cull pile!) My excuse is that Naples is such an engaging place that I just didn't want the camera between me and it all the time. That said, it is also a place that deserves being visited exclusively as a photographic excursion.

Another day, another foray, this time to Castel dell'Ovo and whatever there is to be seen along the way ~

This appears to be a shrine to the madonna and child. But did Our Lady fall victim to an amateur restorer or was she watching too many youtube makeup videos?





She does not approve ~



Piazza Monteoliveto





Random disapproval ~





Piazza del Plebiscito





Directly across the Piazza is the Royal Palace, a Bourbon extravaganza which I'll visit on my way back in this direction ~





From the entrance of the palace, looking across to the church of San Francesco di Paola ~

[kerouac2]

That is about the first "spacious" area that you have shown. They must find events to fill it up with people from time to time.

[cheerypeabrain]

So much to see. This is a glorious thread Bixa. I loved the bits of Italy we saw when we we on a med cruise. Only saw Naples from the port to Pompeii...but what we did see looked amazing. Your plunge into the city with your camera and take us with you! Absolutely brilliant.

[bjd]

I really enjoy those posters of old paintings with new touches added. I then googled Blase and got this:

blasepheme.com/bio-fr

So it's a French guy who buys and restores old paintings and adds his own touch. He did a workshop in Naples for a month last year,which might explain the posters around the city.

More pics here: blasepheme.com/

[lagatta]

The most common porco swearing I've heard is at once vulgar and blasphemous. Porca Madonna, Porco Dio etc. I think Porca Madonna is worse, calling the BVM a sow (also meaning a whore, and not of the elegant variety). There are devout Catholics who use this expression, but foreigners are better to avoid them. Non-native speakers often think swear words are funny, and overuse them, or use them inappropriately. Bixa, I'm sure you've observed that in Mexico. I'm not religious, or a prude, but in this case it is better to be prudent until they naturally emerge from your mouth.

I've heard the euphemistic Porco maiale (two names for swine)which shouldn't upset anyone.

[bixaorellana]

Kerouac, there are apparently huge Christmas and New Year festivities in that square and it has hosted name-brand concerts. You're right, though, about how small most of the piazzas seem. Thinking back to the centers of Bologna and Venice, it was kind of the same -- one huge central square, but no other even biggish ones scattered about.

I am basking in your kind words, Cheery! Seeing Naples and the coastline on to Pompeii must have been a thrilling experience. If & when I get back to Naples, I would build in a ferry trip. There are ferries from Naples to Sorrento and from there you can catch another ferry to Positano.

Ha ha, Bjd ~ I love the name of his website! Fun as it is to look at them on screen, what was really cool about seeing them in situ was how easily I accepted them as the correct, true versions of the paintings, which may well have been his intention.

The reason I knew those were curse words, LaGatta, is because an older friend of mine whose grandparents were from the old country told me the madonna version was her grandfather's favorite expletive. One day when she was a child she casually said it in front of her mother & promptly got smacked.

Nice view in this area of the Castel Sant'Elmo looking down on the city ~



Walking along the Villa Comunale, the lovely green park area next to the water, you'll pass the Fountain of Saint Lucia, still being enjoyed as it was 400 years ago ~



And this seems the perfect place to insert the perfect music for this area ~





The Castel dell'Ovo, where Naples was founded in the 6th century by Greek colonists.
The present castle is Norman, from the 12th century, and the oldest standing fortification in Naples. more information ~











You enter the castle by going up this ramp. Note the automobile, which gives some idea of how big everything is ~

[bixaorellana]

There are some informational cards here and there. I should mention here that visiting the castle is completely free ~





These scratches blew me away, as I imagined these huge rooms being carved out of the rock ~



Quite the example of old vs. new ~



The views from the castle are wonderful ~



This was frustrating. It's in the side wall of the chapel, but the chapel is shut up tight. We visitors wanted in and asked some castle workers, but only got stared at flatly ~







Peering down at Roman ruins ~



Correct me if I'm stupid, but aren't those cannon aimed right at the city?

[fumobici]

These amazing images are causing me to look at a stay in Naples sooner rather than later. And I can leave the camera in my room as bixa has already taken care of that in masterful fashion!

[bixaorellana]

Ha, Fumobici ~ very generous praise and I sincerely thank you! But ... as I said in reply #31, in many ways I don't think I did full justice to Naples. The Flickr album where these pictures are hosted contains 325 photos. Some of those don't appear here, as they're saved for a church thread. Still, 325 are the ones left after strict culling. I think I could say to you, "Go ye forth therefore, Fumobici, and come back with 400 pictures" and you might be able to do that without duplicating a single one of mine. I also think I can say that you're going to love Naples, and your command of Italian will mean an extra layer of enjoyment. Be sure to allow yourself lots of time to wander.

Moving on and retracing my steps. The sun has come out!



What could be more Italian than movie making?





Now it is time to tour the Royal Palace ~













So far, so tasteful, right? If that sounds snarky, hold on to your eyeballs, 'cause you ain't seen nuthin yet!

[bixaorellana]

The palace theater. I never could figure out where the access to the royal box was ~







Here entering the first of the royal apartments. I'll show lots of pictures, but know that I skipped a bunch, too. Grandeur can feel very repetitive!

[bixaorellana]

There are scads of portraits. Because I've attempted to makes sense of who's who, I will foist that information upon you all. One day you'll thank me for this.

This is poor little Maria Cristina, who died when she was 24, but was beatified in 2013.
You may want to take a swig of Pepto-Bismol before you read her entry in the Mad Monarchist blog~




Here is the remarkably accomplished Maria Antonia of Bavaria, Electress of Saxony ~



This picture appears to be dad and the kids, but both male portraits are of Ferdinand I, who was the King of the Two Sicilies from 1816.
Before that he had been Ferdinand IV of the Kingdom of Naples and Ferdinand III of the Kingdom of Sicily. He was also King of Gozo. Whew!
The woman is his wife, Maria Carolina, sister of Marie Antoinette and fascinating in her own right. Do read her link.




   

As far as I have been able to figure out, this is also a picture of Maria Carolina, although she manages to look older than she did five years later ~




This is my favorite of the bunch, just because of the breathtaking, overweening arrogance of it. Someday, son, this will be all yours!




Finally, some token common people ~

[bixaorellana]

I seem to have taken many photos of the palace. It was my last day in Naples -- maybe I thought I didn't have enough pictures.
My apologies. I guess this is the price you have to pay for not having to look at church pictures in this thread   ~

Something regal and important happening here ~



There were many panels in this style, some were doors and some dividers ~



Besides the richly clothed walls, there were many monumental tapestries ~







A throne room, naturally ~





Gold -- it always makes a statement ~

[kerouac2]

Those white hallways/foyers are such a refreshing change from golden overload. But I am sure that they used to be golden, too.

Some of those portraits look well executed, but other would make you laugh if you saw them at a garage sale.

[bixaorellana]

I don't think you're right about the staircase. The palace was redecorated and renovated over the centuries, but the staircase was from a less gaudy era. It's very impressive in real life and not only for its size. The proportions are perfect, so you notice its beauty and the beauty of the marble more than how very big it is.
The scary thing about the portraits is that they probably all flatter the subjects. Certainly Ferdinand looks better as an older man in the large portrait.
Read Maria Carolina's link in #41 to find out what a pig he was.

Well, it is time to wrap up this report. Let's gaze out from the fancy apartments to the hanging gardens overlooking the Bay of Naples.
The arches beneath them belong to the National Library. I walked through the area, but it didn't seem open and there was construction work going on ~



The palace is huge ~



Okay, feel free to mock me for this, but I fell head over heels in love with this object ~



The woman is so totally my true inner self, besides being dressed the way I should be dressed ~





*sigh* ❤️



The vestibule ~



More fancy panels, another regal hall ~







More elaborate porcelain. The Bourbon kings established a porcelain factory in an annex to the palace ~







With that bit of 18th century technology, we have come to the end of this report on Naples. So as not to end with a picture of a desk, we'll go out with the essence of Naples ~

[bjd]

If I ever get to Naples, I would probably skip the palace. There is only so much gold and decoration I can take, even though I would miss seeing that sculpture of you, Bixa. It really is great in a kitschy way.

Such a pleasure for the senses to get outside again.

I'm glad you had a good time in Naples -- it sounds as though you really enjoyed the place.

[lugg]

. Thanks for the explanation LaGatta.
Fascinating report Bixa, your enthusiasm for Naples shines through your wonderful photos as ever. I wonder if the lady in red at the fountain is especially dressed for a photo shoot or if its her everyday attire .
I can never get enough gold and glitz so really enjoyed seeing the palace. I now know more about The Trinacria than I ever thought I'd need to know after spotting what appeared to be the Manx symbol on the ceiling of the staircase.

[bixaorellana]

Thanks to you both! I am really gratified by your saying that you can tell how much I like Naples. Besides Venice, it was the city I most wanted to see in Italy and I was certainly not disappointed.

Thank you for appreciating my clock, Bjd. I might get stoned for saying this, but really -- is it any more ott than a Fabergé egg, something that is acceptable good taste?

I have to laugh at the opposing views of the palatial splendor. It was the only palace I visited in the country. Having given Pitti Palace the go-by, I figured I'd better see one fancy royal residence. For a return trip to Naples, I'd like to go to the gardens of the Reggia di Caserta, although its 1200 rooms would probably defeat me. The Royal Palace has a garden, but when I asked about it, two docents got sort of shifty eyed, saying that sure I could go see it, but they were obviously trying to distract me with other Palace features. It's glowingly written up here and there, but the little I bothered seeing seemed tired and sort of scruffy.

Lugg, I think the lady was dressed for a special occasion, as the man and the boy with her are both wearing sportcoats. The people in the right of the photo more typify the way everyone was dressed.
You have sharp eyes! Having been to Sicily, I knew what the Trinacria on the ceiling represented, but had completely forgotten about the Manx connection.

[kerouac2]

Oh, I noticed the Manx legs and was wondering about them.

[lagatta]

Unlike Lugg, I can only take a certain quantum of pomp at a time. I'll return several times. Yes, eye-rolling lady is a wonderful icon.

[treycraft]

Thank you for sharing. I just joined today found this perfect, going to Naples in October for a week. Im drinking this thread all in. Questions later!

[lagatta]

Yes, it is a wonderful thread. I was only on a daytrip to Naples with Roman friends.

[bixaorellana]

The "Manx legs" -- great name!

True, LaGatta -- magnificence multiplied too many times gets to be oppressive.

Very kind, Treycraft ~ thank you! A big welcome, as well. Can't wait to hear about your experience in October. When you get back, I'll have questions for you, too.

Thanks, LaGatta. What kinds of things do people target when they only have time for a Naples day trip?

[lagatta]

Whatever their "knowledgeable" friends want to do, mainly just wandering around or stopping for a pizza or beer. Soaking up the atmosphere.

[cheerypeabrain]

Great thread, lots of information for us to get our teeth into! I think that I would probably spend most of my time immersed in the ancient history that is everywhere in Italy. I do love the photos that you've posted tho... the opulence of the palace is bonkers but beautiful and the crazy but gorgeous sculpture is very groovy

[bixaorellana]

Thank you, dear Cheery! So true about the ancient history being everywhere. That reminds me to add here that I found out what was under the glass floor shown in reply #28. It was Roman ruins, which I could have seen if the transparent floor hadn't given me the willies. Really, if you wanted to immerse yourself in the ancient history of Italy, I think you'd have to divide the country into a bunch of manageable sections and take multiple trips, occasionally coming up for air, pizza, and gelato.

[bixaorellana]

Fears rise of volcanic eruption near Naples after strongest earthquake in 40 years

[kerouac2]

One of the most amazing aspects of this site is that whenever somebody revives a thread for whatever reason, we can rediscover amazing reports that we had completely forgotten. So thanks for this new link but fingers crossed that the whole area is not suddenly destroyed.

[fumobici]

Those reports were all over RAI News yesterday. I suppose I should finally see Napoli before it becomes the next Herculaneum.