Bosnia. A start.

[onlyMark]

The Lord sent me a message this morning.
The sun was shining on the righteous so I shot down into town armed with my trusty camera to take some brightly lit photos of the Muslim shop area.
As soon as I got there heavy cloud moved in to blot it out.
It seems I’m not righteous enough.
I can live with that though.

Unfortunately then, cloudy photos again. Maybe I’ll have to wait until the summer to re-visit but there are plenty of things to see in the meantime. Those though require a walk a little further than at the bottom of the hill and take more time.
Just to give you an idea of locations, first is a map of the whole of Sarajevo with over to the right, the area I concentrated on -




Somewhat closer up -




First, something I’d noticed a couple of times but have only just got round to recording it.
Peeking up over the shops is a minaret for a mosque. At the side of it is a clock tower.
The mosque is the Gazi Husrev-beg Mosque and was built in 1532. It is the largest in Bosnia and one of the major ones of the Balkan area.

The man himself, Gazi Husrev-beg, was the Governor of Sarajevo several times between 1521 and 1541. He built few things around here and his body is in a tomb within the mosque grounds. He expanded Ottoman influence in the Balkans and eventually died whilst fighting Christian rebels in Montenegro.
He also built the clock tower.
It has been rebuilt twice and the clock mechanism has been restored as recently as 1967 - just to mention the mechanism, originally Turkish, was replaced by one from Gillett & Bland of London in 1874.
Notice anything about the face? -






Well spotted. It has Arabic numbers.
But - the time reads ten to six (scroll back up a fraction to check). Yet it was not that time in the morning or evening when I visited - but the clock is showing the right time.
Why does it seem wrong then?
Aha!!! - this is why -
“The clock shows lunar time, in which the hands indicate 12 o'clock at the moment of sunset, the time of the Muslim Maghrib prayer. A caretaker sets the clock's time manually once a week.”

There is a new library close by in the name of Gazi Husrev-beg and donated by Qatar -






Also in his name and built in 1537 is the Kursumlija madrasa (school) -








The school, clock tower, library and mosque are all within yards of each other and so I moved back to the mosque itself.
The second photo is of the outdoor washing area, as can be seen by the small pipes coming out from the low walls -








Time to move on. Rain and more snow was threatening -




In this area on every street of note, of which they mostly all are, they all have a story, are plaques with the street name and a short description of what the street originally was used for. You’ll see quite a few of photos of these because whilst now the street is fairly nondescript, you get an idea of the history of the area -









Couldn’t get close enough for a clear view of what is behind the fence, but suffice to say it is an old hammam. The hope is that it will be reconstructed one day -








Moving on and a number of photos for the scenery -
























































Can’t remember if this sweet shop was the one I photographed before, if so, I thought I’d do it again -
































There is a bit of an indoor bazaar, but it isn’t very impressive and was at one time a lot bigger -


















Back outside again -






That is the end of the quarter and as seen before, looks into the newer shopping section -




But here was the larger part of the bazaar, now in ruins -








Slipping down a side street to get back to where I started -




















She’s breaking up stale bread for the birds -








M Chat - “M. Chat (also known as Monsieur Chat and Mr Chat) is the name of a graffiti cat that originally appeared in Orléans, France in 1997. The graffiti appeared most frequently on chimneys, but was also sighted in other places, such as train platforms and at political rallies. The artist was originally anonymous, but in 2007 Thoma Vuille was caught in the act of creating the cat.”
There are quite a few in Sarajevo and are well known in many countries -




Now I’ve got my bearings somewhat I’ll have to make a list of what I want to see and work my way through them. Had it been spring or summer I’d have been going away for weekends but that will have to come in the future. For now, Sarajevo is the limit of my excursions and I’ll give it a rest for a while.
Until another time......

[bjd]

Thanks for all these pictures, Mark. I found those big wooden shutters stored below the shop windows interesting. They must be heavy to lift into place every night.

The area you were in is the one mentioned most often in guidebooks for Sarajevo as being the most interesting and picturesque. I'm sure it will be more pleasant in spring or summer -- now it just looks cold and empty.

Sarajevo looks like one of those towns or cities where you find interesting things by accident, just going around a corner or following an alley somewhere.

[breeze]

I'm enjoying your explorations, Mark. I wonder if those are chimneys on the madrasa. Does each room need its own chimney?

Two of your photos reminded me of a word bixa introduced us to, which I can't remember. It's the thing over the door to the madrasa and the mosque. Bixa explained it during her visit to mosques in Istanbul. Funnily enough, I haven't been able to work the word into a conversation; otherwise I might be able to remember it.

I wonder how merchants felt when all their competitors were on the same street. If there was a sense of cooperation among them, great. Otherwise...miserable.

If I were a wealthy visitor, it would be so much fun to shop among all those pretty things. It's almost as much fun seeing their pictures.

[lugg]

I have not yet had chance to look at your most recent additions Mark but will do tomorrow/ next couple of days . In the meantime, and not wanting to get left behind, just to say thank you for your report and the wonderful photos taken by your daughter of the City Hall. It was great to see it inside and learn a little more about it's history and subsequent recovery. I had been drawn to that building in your previous posts so particularly enjoyed seeing more. I remember learning about the building years ago for my history A level and remember that Archduke Franz Ferdinand of Austria and his wife Sophie had recently left it prior to their assassination, which of course led to a terrible war that has impacted most of us....in one way or another.

[kerouac2]

It's nice to see Monsieur Chat in Sarajevo. I know that he is everywhere in the world now, but he is based in my arrondissement in Paris, so he can be seen virtually everywhere in my neighbourhood.

I really like all of the street signs with the explanations.

My own office had a pretty horrifying (to us) memory of Sarajevo. After the endless terrible siege, vital supplies were being flown into the city from all over the world. That's when my airline proudly announced that it had flown in a million korans as its contribution.

[onlyMark]

It appears I have a few problems from time to time with the size of the photos. I try to resize them and now have succeeded in just having a little horizontal scroll bar. I think that is the best I can do for now.

Jan 25, 2021 18:59:56 GMT bjd said:

you find interesting things by accident, just going around a corner or following an alley somewhere.

Certainly is the case. Yes.

Jan 25, 2021 19:16:41 GMT breeze said:

I wonder if those are chimneys on the madrasa. Does each room need its own chimney?

I'm almost convinced they are individual class rooms and when the building was built, unless they stole the idea of central heating from the Romans, I think they would, if not still, have to have a fire in each room - though you'd have thought they'd use the same 'technology' found in hammams with the same underfloor heating etc.

Jan 25, 2021 19:16:41 GMT breeze said:

It's the thing over the door to the madrasa and the mosque.

7
I'll possibly recognise the word when Bixa tells us, but can't bring it to mind for now.

Jan 25, 2021 19:25:35 GMT lugg said:

just to say thank you for your report and the wonderful photos taken by your daughter of the City Hall. It was great to see it inside and learn a little more about it's history and subsequent recovery. I had been drawn to that building in your previous posts so particularly enjoyed seeing more.

I'll pass on your thanks for sure.

Jan 25, 2021 19:46:40 GMT kerouac2 said:

nnounced that it had flown in a million korans as its contribution.

Starving to death, badly injured, mourning the death of my family, no idea how I'll rebuild my life, if at all, I'm sure rather than practical help I'd be completely happy with a new Koran.

[breeze]

Okay, I went back to bixa's visit, and I believe this is what she called the mihrab. The definition is the semicircular niche that shows the direction of Mecca. I've wiki'd the word and the illustrations show various styles, including one similar to your photos, Mark.

If after all that I don't remember the word, there's no hope for me.

[mich64]

Fascinating, enjoyable and as always, educational. You capture very well the daily practical life (as does Kerouac) wherever you go whether it be by your photos or your written words.

I enjoy these threads where many others will add their experiences from something they see or read.

I look forward to seeing what changes come when spring and summer approach.

[tod2]

Great photo tour Mark. I looked at so many things indepth but here are just a few.
The Clock Tower - The stone blocks are all pitted to the same extent and I wondered what rock they were made from. I don't think they are a sort of 'concrete' and pebble mixture made by human hands. There must be some type of porous rock in the region.
Then I started to notice the new information signs reminded me of the ones in Paris where the four corners are scooped out. Also green colour very much the same.
Wondering around the markets and little shops with what looked like nice leather belts - I would be straight to the purse stand looking for a money purse that has a clip pouch on one side for coins and a fold over wallet type on the reverse.
Lastly, I see they are selling bananas from Ecuador. I think "Bonitas" means sunrise in Spanish. I quickly read up on them and see the headquarters are in Antwerp Belgium but they have sales offices in Serbia & Croatia. Just made me wonder if South African bananas ever appear in Europe. From Ecuador to Antwerp is 15 sailing days in reefer cargo containers, so a lot of timing for ripeness must have been calculated.

I look forward to a couple more strolls and discoveries Mark!

[bjd]

The comment about korans being flown in reminds me of what I saw in Mostar in 2006. Signs on buses showed that they had been funded by Japan, various school buildings by EU countries but the mosques were Gulf countries' contributions. My reaction was the same as Mark's to the korans. Especially since Bosnia had not been particularly known for strong Islamic tendencies.

[onlyMark]

Jan 26, 2021 1:04:56 GMT mich64 said:

I look forward to seeing what changes come when spring and summer approach.

Be nice when everywhere is green and the sun is shining.

Jan 26, 2021 8:05:15 GMT tod2 said:

There must be some type of porous rock in the region.

There is a lot of karst, limestone, dolomite etc.

Had to walk out early this morning to pick up an ID card. I felt more like staying in bed. View from my balcony -

[kerouac2]

Jan 26, 2021 8:30:58 GMT bjd said:

My reaction was the same as Mark's to the korans.

I think the country in question had also noticed on all of the news reports of the siege that the Muslims of Bosnia were not very religious and had no trouble mixing with the other religions before the war. They decided that it was time for a change.

[bixaorellana]

Well, I know who I'm nominating to host the next anyport get-together!

I'm already learning some words from reading the historical plaques you posted. Very proud, especially as I got "biblioteka" without any help.

Speaking of words, I think this is what Mich wanted: Muqarnas

The only place really "east" and with a strong Muslim presence I've ever been was Istanbul. Everything you have shown of Sarajevo fascinates and draws me with the same intensity.

Question ~ Is the large older part of the bazaar in ruins because of its antiquity, or because of the modern wars?

[onlyMark]

Jan 27, 2021 2:50:47 GMT bixaorellana said:

Question ~ Is the large older part of the bazaar in ruins because of its antiquity, or because of the modern wars?

I've had further information about this because I made an assumption - at one end of the ruins there is mention of the bazaar but at the other end, which I didn't notice, is information that this was also a caravanserai (road side inn/motel).
The confusion for me occurred because the bottom section of the caravanserai was used as shops and storage whilst just the top part was the accommodation.
Built between 1540 and 1543 it as one of three in the city.
It mostly survived until 1879 when a large fire destroyed it.

[bixaorellana]

Thanks, Mark.

340 years is pretty good value for money.

That commerce below, lodgings above must have been common throughout history.

[onlyMark]

We’ve had a new dining table delivered and I was informed the place mats we have are the wrong colour. This then entailed going down into the town to try and find the ‘proper’ ones.
Why on earth the ladies can’t just say we are going to go for a walk I’ve no idea. The question was, should I go with them? I asked if we’d be spending a lot of time in shopping malls. They remained noncommittal, but did mention we’d be stopping at some point for coffee and cake - I put my shoes on.

It was a sun through the fog type of day but I still decided I’d try for a few photos of buildings that catch my eye even though the light was so-so.
First I went to the other end of the ruined souk/bazaar and this was what the sign said -








As we meandered around I picked a few things to make note of at least to continue with giving you the impression of what I see in the city as I walk through it -








This is the central bank building -












Bimbling along further -
















Passing by the eternal flame again, it’s in a central location and on most routes back and forth.
A memorial to the military and civilian victims of the Second World War - there is a dedication that reads
“With courage and the jointly spilled blood of the fighters of the Bosnian-Herzegovinian, Croatian, Montenegrin, and Serbian brigades of the glorious Yugoslav Army; with the joint efforts and sacrifices of Sarajevan patriots Serbs, Muslims and Croats on 6 April 1945 Sarajevo, the capital city of the People's Republic of Bosnia and Herzegovina was liberated.
Eternal glory and gratitude to the fallen heroes for the liberation of Sarajevo and our homeland, on the first anniversary of its liberation—a grateful Sarajevo.”




A diversion/short cut through some back streets to get home -














Two shopping malls were visited, four home stuff type shops were entered, a fruit bowl, four (wrong coloured but will do for now) place mats were bought as well as a small rectangular porcelain serving plate that I’m told is just the thing to put biscuits or something like nuts or olives on.
I had a very nice cake that was called ‘Jaffa’ and was made to imitate a single Jaffa cake, but a lot larger.
It was good.

[kerouac2]

Most of that part of the city looks both more monumental and more austere. Not a place for laughing children.

[bjd]

No laughing children, but I like the fact that those statues have their little pointy shoes sticking out over the pedestal.

[onlyMark]

bjd, I like that too.
K2, I've come to the city at probably one of the worst times of year. Everything looks grey and depressed. I'm told it is quite lively when the better weather arrives and I await for that to happen. For now though two things have previously struck me in relation to what you say. Firstly I had noticed there were no playgrounds for the kids. There are some open spaces and I have seen a small skate park, but playgrounds with swings etc like you see all over the cities on Spain for example? Nope.

The second thing noticeable by it's absence occurred to a a couple of weeks ago when I was down a road leading to a supermarket. I saw a bike lane.
No more than 50m long, but it was there.
That made me realise there are no bikes anywhere. Casting my mind back I can't recall seeing anyone at all on a bike. Not one person.

[bixaorellana]

More good stuff! I quite like the imposing architecture and the nouveau and deco statuary in the town. The warm yellow color is particularly nice.

Your pictures of the Tašlihan really bring home how very big it was. The first one, with the big glass building in the background really showed the size. I tried googling to find out why guests stayed for free, but got nothing. Maybe it was just good business practice to get merchants moving through the city.

Does the monument to Murdered Children refer to Srebenica?

I'm glad those ladies are taking care of you. Otherwise you might just wander around taking pictures and learning history without getting important stuff done.

[onlyMark]

I think there were three caravanserai in the city and only this one was free, but I can believe the reason being it was part of the bazaar and an incentive for traders to come there. Could be wrong but sort of makes logical sense.

The monument to murdered children (and I like the no nonsense word of murdered rather than just referring to them as dead) is dedicated to the 1621 children who died during the Siege of Sarajevo which lasted from 2nd April 1992 to 29th February 1996.

[fumobici]

Love the update. I was beginning to wonder if the city was always under a magic cloud.

"in this inn accommodation was free" imagine a time centuries ago when capitalism wasn't assumed to be the natural state of man.

[fumobici]

Even in bicycle-mad Italy, towns in the mountains are pretty much exempt. Bicycles shine as transport in the flats and become rarely-seen fitness toys where the streets ramp up and down all over.

[onlyMark]

I think the 'hillyness' is a factor.

[lugg]

Just caught up -0 absolutely fascinating. Monument to murdered children - sounds so stark and a reminder of the atrocities of war. Hope you get chance to show it to us at some point.

I thought that re the bikes - I cannot imagine it would be pleasurable due to the inclines. Those stairs look formidable.
One other thing that I noticed, the lack of patio heaters despite the outdoor seating - the citizens of Sarajevo must be a hardy lot.

[kerouac2]

In Paris, our municipal bikes did not have any stations on top of Montmartre or Belleville in their first version since people would only take bikes downhill and never uphill. Now that the operator has changed, there is a choice of manual bikes and bikes with electrical assistance. Perhaps this is something for Sarajevo to consider.

[fumobici]

Seattle is the only truly hilly city I am aware of where you frequently see people out commuting and going to stores on bicycle. E-bikes, as we call them, are getting as ubiquitous here as Teslas, you see people who probably haven't cycled in decades out bombing around now.

[onlyMark]

lugg, will do.
Patio heaters - you don't find many people sitting outside with the weather being like it is but the sun has shone today and is forecast for the next day or two. If I get into the town I'll keep an eye out - though I definitely know of one place just on the pedestrian street that has a clear plastic tent arrangement on each of about four or five outside tables that has a patio heater in each one. There is also a covered set of tables with plastic sides that has them in another one.

There is I think only one company, Nextbike, that rent out bikes like in many capital cities but their station or only on the flat bits along the valley. There is also one electric scooter renter called BeeBee who have a grand total of 72 scooters.
I know of at least one company, for tourists, that will rent you an eBike, 13 euro for 24 hours or 5 euro for an hour.
In Germany I noticed virtually ever second or third bike is electric. But, they have the disposable income to buy them. Here I doubt it very much.
Quite why the city is lagging behind in the bike/scooter rental I can only surmise is due to the lack of a company or two willing to take the risk. I wouldn't be surprised if some haven't already done a feasibility study and rejected the idea.

One thing I'll try and cover as I have done in the other countries I've lived, is give you an idea of what the prices of things are. I know my impression is that things are fairly cheap but I'd like to supply some details for you to compare with in your city/country.
What I can say for sure is that the set of apartments (there are just 9 on three floors) has a cleaner employed by the landlord to do the outside spaces and garage who we've approached to do our cleaning. She doesn't have the time but she said her wages are 10KM an hour = 5 Euro.
Not a lot.

[kerouac2]

That is of course a dismal salary but still probably much better than when you were living in Egypt, Jordan or Zambia.

[onlyMark]

Or when in the Philippines as well.