Luang Prabang 2023

[kerouac2]

I visited Luang Prabang about 25 years ago and wanted to return ever since.  Using my airline staff tickets, the only way to get there was through Hanoi, which offered the opportunity of rediscovering Hanoi, so I was happy to do that.  But Luang Prabang was my real destination for this trip.  August is still the middle of the rainy season, but I didn't care.  I like to visit places during low season.  The flight from Hanoi was uneventful.  In any case it only lasts an hour.

The Mekong looked as sluggish as ever.

It was really green down there.

It is not the busiest airport in the world.

Frankly, I found the arrival really well organised, particularly the taxi services.  There were collective taxis for 80,000 kip (3.74 euros) to go anywhere in the city, easy peasy.  I had what could have been a very minor problem, because my hotel reservation was for the next day.  What if they had no room today?  But the receptionist said not to worry and gave me a room.  And then gave me a much better room the next day.  That first day I apparently occupied the "emergency" room, which I thought was pretty good anyway.

For some reason my first photo of the room was of the shower, which I could easily share with three or four close friends.

standard bed

Desk, television and refrigerator.  All fine for about 25 euros a night, breakfast included.

After taking a shower (no friends available), I was ready to go out and explore.

[kerouac2]

It was a less than 10-minute walk to the centre of the city so I went there armed with my umbrella to see what had changed in 25 years.



It was wonderful to be somewhere with civilised traffic and absolutely no honking at any time.



People still need to eat.





It is a very tidy town.





There are countless old women making flower offerings for all of the temples and home shrines. You need new flowers every day.





Actually, my intersection was the main intersection in town but I still filed away in my brain the information "corner with the elephants."



And then I was on the main street.

[kerouac2]

Even though I was eager to rediscover the main street, in just a few moments I was sidetracked down the market alleys.









I was beginning to drool, but it was not yet a proper time for a meal. I am not a snacker.











time out

[htmb]

These market scenes are very interesting. Are those cooked fish on sticks?

[kerouac2]

Yes, the famous fish-on-a-stick. Much easier to nibble around the bones.

[kerouac2]

The Lao PDR has abandoned use of the French language. Luang Prabang has not. I asked the hotel receptionist where the post office was, and she did not know what a post office is. But I basically remembered where it was and the next morning I told her that I had found it. When I left the hotel she was proud to say "I know the post office is right across from the elephants!" Now she can tell other elderly visitors if they ask.

People always wonder how far from home they are.







Near my hotel was this former cinema. Since cinema is returning to Asia, perhaps this will reopen some day.



The hotel was up this muddy lane, and that kind of delighted me for some reason. I felt I was in the wilds.



The hotel itself was quite nice.



I had dinner in this sort of fancy restaurant right across from the hotel. It was so convenient.



When I say "sort of fancy," it is quite relative. A big dish of rice and fish with a beer cost 70,000 kip (3.30 euros).



I was so happy to be out of the big city. A real Asian night!





This was the view of my hotel entrance "after hours" when the lights are out and there is no need for a night guard.

[bixaorellana]

I have to say, Kerouac, you have done a superb job of conveying the excitement & joy you felt being back there.

Wonderful pictures. There are many things I wish to eat, especially the fish on sticks. Your hotel looks like the perfect haven.

Aug 23, 2023 17:20:38 GMT kerouac2 said:

cinema is returning to Asia

Explain, please.

[kerouac2]

Most of the cinemas of Southeast Asia died because of video. But in recent years, they understood that they had buried cinema a bit too fast and now new muliplexes are appearing. The internet tells me that there are currently 4 cinemas in Laos.

[kerouac2]

Back to the centre the next morning; There are flowers everywhere.





Kids were waiting for the library to open. Or many just getting out of the rain.





A lot of the ATMs are fancy temples of money.



Luang Prabang province seems to have a very active anti-tobacco policy.





Finding the post office the first day was step one. Going there when it was open was step two.

[bixaorellana]

Delightful!

I adore that picture of the two people in orange dresses in the rain. I also very much like the one of the eggs, not least because that's how eggs are sold here, but I never before noticed how photo-worthy they are.

[kerouac2]

Aug 24, 2023 4:11:38 GMT bixaorellana said:

two people in orange dresses in the rain

Those are Buddhist monks.

[kerouac2]

Most of the buildings in the centre were built in the 1930s.



I was extremely impressed by the sidewalks. Even in residential areas they are like this.







There are temples every hundred metres or so.











Most of the "nice" shops sell quite elegant garments for ladies.

[bixaorellana]

Aug 24, 2023 4:32:17 GMT kerouac2 said:

Those are Buddhist monks.

I sort of figured that by the clothing, but they look so extremely young that I couldn't tell if they were male or female.

The facade on that temple is quite beautiful. But even after seeing the temple picture, somehow the most exotic thing to me is the wooden and plaster building with the three storefronts -- "foreign looking".

Love that lane with the menu and the motorbikes.

[kerouac2]

All young men are supposed to spend part of their youth as monks (usually about six months, if I am not mistaken). But very young children can become monks too. Since monks eat well and have easy living conditions, many poor families are happy to send their little boys to a monastery.

[mossie]

Does it ever stop raining??

[kerouac2]

It can go on and on during the rainy season. It stopped raining after three days in Hanoi, and it stopped raining after three days in Luang Prabang. You will even see some blue skies in certain photos later on.

[kerouac2]

It was time to go and see the river. When on the main street, you are never more than two blocks away, the Nam Khan on the right or the Mekong on the left. Let me pull up the map of Luang Prabang again so that you can see. My hotel was the blue square at the bottom.

This is the Nam Khan, a raging angry river during the rainy season.





Who lives on the other side?



The street is lined with lovely houses in the traditional style, although I suspect that this one is recent.







As one progresses, the zone of upscale guesthouses takes over.









Certain things are not permitted in the bushes.



There would be a witness in any case.



new project?





We are definitely not in poortown.





All of these hotels run between 40 and 100 euros a night.



I really appreciated the empty (and perfecty paved) streets with no traffic.





I was reaching the end of the little spit of land (you can hardly call it a peninsula).



It was time to go and see the Nam Khan be swallowed by the Mekong.

[kerouac2]

The confluence of the Nam Khan and the Mekong in this season does not exactly roar, but it definitely growls in displeasure.





One feels safe in the observational park.



Park workers were doing something or other with huge bamboo poles.





The water was full of logs and branches and other material. No boats here, because it would be madness.



Then I walked up the road on the Mekong side, certainly more expensive because they can promise a magical "Mekong view."



The hotels had special vehicles, just because.





There are places to board boats when appropriate.



The statues use a bit too much lipstick in my opinion.



Why would anybody want to turn right?





I took a street to take me back to the central avenue.





back to a world of temples

[cheerypeabrain]

Absolutely beautiful...I too love the brickwork paving. The buildings are charming and everywhere looks very tidy fascinating place, I can see why you wanted to go back.

[kerouac2]

One of the best things about Luang Prabang was how empty it is during low season. Okay, some people might get tired of the rain, not me.









All of the temples had the same sign out front.





back along the main street











and so little traffic!

[fumobici]

So squared away and organized compared to Hanoi. Reminds me a bit of Italy compared to Switzerland. You usually pay for that organization and neatness with boredom however.

[kerouac2]

time for a break.



When this guy came begging, I turned him away. Then I regretted it. Then the next day talking to a tuktuk driver, I understood that I was right.



After the beer, I got hungry. Sorry.











just so you'll remember the Lao flag the next time you see it.



I did not go up to the top of Mount Phousi (which is just a hill) this time. But I'll give a link to my old report later on.







Things for tourists to buy.  It isn't all crap.





a place to relax



never go thirsty



Another path to Mount Phousi

[kerouac2]

I often felt as though I had Luang Prabang to myself.



















My trips 30 years ago were usually completely improvised, so I would scrutinize signs like this for a long time.



However, activities like this never appealed to me.

[kerouac2]

There are still a few side lanes without the fancy brickwork.





Finally I was able to zoom in on the lovely speciality of balut eggs with the little heads popping out of the shells. Yum.



Later, it was time to go to the night market. The main street of Luang Prabang is closed for this.





It is very much tourist oriented, but that's fine since the locals can get their necessary products during the day.











I stopped in the "Opera House" for dinner. It had plenty of atmosphere.



a nice sultry southeast Asian night even without opium pipes



very eclectic décor, dark enough to make everything mysterious

[bixaorellana]

I have not commented much on this thread, even though I am riveted to it. Your pictures are wonderful, full of surprises, and I love how they cover all elements of the place. But the best part is how well you impart your sense of fascination with and enjoyment of it all.

[kerouac2]

Back out in the night market. It operates from 18:00 to at least 23:00.







ready for trash pickup tonight or tomorrow morning



Laos is very much involved in ethical and ecological considerations.

















a few more treats for carnivores





This is the famous Australian bar just one street from my hotel.  I did not go in.





There was a view of the top of Mount Phousi.



the end of another excellent da and I crossed the grounds of the temple next to my hotel

[kerouac2]

I had a nice view out of the window of my new room at the hotel.



I also had a view of the swimming pool downstairs that did not belong to the hotel. Nobody ever used it while I was there.



I will again say that I very much liked this hotel.





I tried a different street to walk into town and encountered this impressive temple.



There was a surprisingly chic (?) hair salon right across from it.



I wonder when Asian countries will decide to fix the chaotic wiring everywhere. This can't last forever. But it won't be easy.











Back on a new street into town.  Is this old military ordnance used as decoration?





I arrived at the main street where the elephants are but about two blocks "upstream." This was considered the main entrance to town.







different aesthetics for different countries





I needed to see the Mekong again. Just the name of it evokes so much exoticism to me.



I also love the architecture of the traditional buildings.











what an incredible river

[kerouac2]

But I left the river to walk through the delightful morning market.





It seemed at though these vegetables had been harvested no more than an hour ago.









And then back to the main street.



They liked to date the buildings back then.





And then it was time for my first break of the day.

[htmb]

The architecture is very interesting, especially the use of different types of wood.
So, would these streets be crowded during the high season?
I’ve noticed lots of bottled water in the shop pictures. Did you drink the tap water, or resort to purchasing bottled?

[kerouac2]

I drink tap water almost everywhere. I did on this trip, but I am probably not the person to consult for health advice.

Luang Prabang woud be "more" crowded during high season (December, January) but it would remain perfectly bearable.